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SECTION 10: TAILCONE: Difference between revisions
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- 5/28/22 I did it per the plans, drawing the two lines exactly. Now use a cleco CLAMP on the bottom (threaded end) and a wood C clamp on the top gently holding it in place while you drill the 4 holes. A little confusing in the plans it calls to drill the 3/32 out w/ a # 30 drill. Correct. It's a 3/32 hole oversize it to #30 so it will receive a -4 (4/32) rivet down line. See page 10-18 for rivet size. Drill the 4 #30 holes first and cleco as you go. Then drill the 3/16 holes also clecoing if you have 3/16 clecos.<br>[[File:2022-05-28 15-36-10.jpg|400x400px|Tie down assembly]]<br>Tie down assembly | - 5/28/22 I did it per the plans, drawing the two lines exactly. Now use a cleco CLAMP on the bottom (threaded end) and a wood C clamp on the top gently holding it in place while you drill the 4 holes. A little confusing in the plans it calls to drill the 3/32 out w/ a # 30 drill. Correct. It's a 3/32 hole oversize it to #30 so it will receive a -4 (4/32) rivet down line. See page 10-18 for rivet size. Drill the 4 #30 holes first and cleco as you go. Then drill the 3/16 holes also clecoing if you have 3/16 clecos.<br>[[File:2022-05-28 15-36-10.jpg|400x400px|Tie down assembly]]<br>Tie down assembly | ||
Step 1: 5/28/22 Taping the Tie down. Note: The hole should first be drilled out to 5/16 to receive a 3/8-16 tap. The hole is undersized by Vans. A trick a machinist taught me, put the tap in your drill press and center your piece under while turning the tap BY HAND. DON'T turn on the drill! It's just a jig to keep things straight while you start the tap. Once you get a couple turns on the tap, take it out, put in your vice and finish.<br>[[File:Sec 10-2 Tap drill.jpg|400x400px|Tap drilling]]<br>Tap drilling | Step 1: 5/28/22 Taping the Tie down. Note: The hole should first be drilled out to 5/16 to receive a 3/8-16 tap. The hole is undersized by Vans. A trick a machinist taught me, put the tap in your drill press and center your piece under while turning the tap BY HAND. DON'T turn on the drill! It's just a jig to keep things straight while you start the tap. Once you get a couple turns on the tap, take it out, put in your vice and finish.<br>[[File:Sec 10-2 Tap drill.jpg|400x400px|Tap drilling]]<br>Tap drilling | ||
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== Page 10-23 == | == Page 10-23 == | ||
Step 2 -- before Cleco'ing and riveting the aft top skin, | Step 2 -- before Cleco'ing and riveting the aft top skin, consider doing a few other things first | ||
* Consider Page 10-23, Steps 3-5; it will be slightly easier without the skin in the way | |||
* If installing an autopilot yaw servo, consider prepping and riveting that support bracket after completing Page 10-23 Step 5. | |||
* Consider Page 10-24 Step 3; If you can safely install the F-636 brackets with the associated nuts and bolts before this step it will save you the hassle of climbing into the tailcone later. | |||
Step 4 - Check whether the AN3-5A bolts to hold down the Bell Crank Angles are in fact the proper bolts. Builders are reporting that those are too long. Note: In general, no more than 3 washers can be stacked to compensate for too long bolts. | Step 4 - Check whether the AN3-5A bolts to hold down the Bell Crank Angles are in fact the proper bolts. Builders are reporting that those are too long. Note: In general, no more than 3 washers can be stacked to compensate for too long bolts. | ||
Step 5 - | Step 5 - This is the ideal time to prep and temporarily install the autopilot pitch and/or yaw servo brackets. The entire F-1035 top plate needs to come off later when you thread in the two push-rods through this opening. Don't mount the servos yet, just the pitch/yaw damper servo brackets. | ||
The entire F-1035 top plate needs to come off later when you thread in the two push-rods through this opening. Don't mount the servos yet, just the yaw damper servo | |||
[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]] | [[index.php?title=Category:Hints]] | ||