SECTION 10: TAILCONE: Difference between revisions

Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

This is the first step in the build process where you may want to start thinking ahead about modifications which may be easier to do during this section rather than later. Not everything in this list is required, it is not comprehensive, and it is not impossible to do later.

* Modifications to the battery tray if you plan to install alternate contactor(s), a battery bus, etc.

* Autopilot pitch and yaw servo brackets

* Mounting bracket for your magnetometer if you plan to install in the tailcone

* Mounting bracket for your ELT

* Mounting bracket for any other avionics that you want in the tailcone

* VOR antenna if desired under the tailcone

* Vans also sells a mounting bracket that fits in the RV-10 tailcone (https://rv10.org/index.php?title=File:Screen_Shot_2022-03-24_at_11.50.50_AM.png) that is perfect for a spot to mount additional hardware. It's much easier to install earlier in the build process than later.

* The tie down ring and the jam nut is not included in the kit.<br>Consider those sources:

** [https://www.cleavelandtool.com/collections/all/products/stainless-tie-down-ring Cleaveland Tie Down]

** [https://marineboltsupply.com/Type-18-8-and-Type-316-Stainless-Steel-Nuts/Type-18-8-and-Type-316-Stainless-Steel-Jam-Thin-Nuts/Type-316-Stainless-Steel-Hex-Jam-Thin-Nuts/Type-316-Stainless-Steel-Size-3-8-16-Hex-Jam-Nuts 3/8-16 Stainless Jam Nut at Marine Bolt Supply]

* Consider electrical wiring and rudder cables before completing the tailcone.  It is much easier to do before the top skin is riveted than to climb inside later.

** Complete section 10 up to page 10-21 step 4.  Do not rivet the Aft Deck assembly (F-1014) or the Top Skin (F-1075) until you are happy with the wiring.

** (More to come.)

Step 1 - tapping this can be quite difficult and may require a top-quality tap and die set. Consider purchasing a [https://cleavelandtool.com/collections/accessories/products/threaded-extruded-aex-tie-down-block pre-tapped version].

Step 3 - Consider also using the center line on the back of the AEX tie down as an additional reference to center the AEX to the centerline of the F-1012A bulkhead. It can be difficult to accurately center the marked lines in the exact centers of the holes as referenced in the plans.

Step 5: Those nut plates will be used to hold the rudder cable sleeves with the help of an Adel clamp. It is then very difficult to start the AN3-4 bolt into those nut plates because the area is very hard to reach. Now is a good time to test run the bolts.

Step 1 - Double check the length and make sure you center the F-1010A on the F-1010 bulkhead to avoid any edge distance issues later on when match drilling the top deck to the longerons.

* Step 1 The angle in figure one is shown upside down in regards to its later mounting position. The angle has a vertical part that gets trimmed 5/32 on both sides and it has a forward pointing horizontal part that gets wider towards the front where it reaches the full width of 10 3/4.

* Step 4 Consider making a jig to make drawing the center line more consistent and efficient. YouTube video: https://youtu.be/yC1kzDO_Gg8?t=590

* Don't assume the stiffeners are exactly 8 foot long and just measure how much to cut off, measure across the entire length to mark the cut-off line.

* Step 1: For hints, see this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=193058 VAF thread]

I had to buy a large clamp that could fit across the width of the F-1014 aft deck in order to align the longerons correctly.

There is a service bulletin (https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/sb18-03-30.pdf ) for the elevator stop (F-1012D). As mentioned in this YouTube build video (https://youtu.be/g5ONB4e28TI ), Van's did send the required material to create the new part with the rest of the kit (subkit #5), but did not update the plans to reflect the service bulletin.

Step 7 instructions only apply to the web of the F-1012B Bulkhead. Dimpling of the flanges of this part is done in step 4 on page 10-16 which instructs to not dimple the topmost hole.

[[File:Screen Shot 2022-04-25 at 8.50.35 PM.png|500x500px]]

Step 1: consider riveting the F-1055-L/R Rudder Stop Skin Stiffeners now. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7944374382350258 FB Thread].

If working alone, you can get away with riveting the bottom skin stiffeners to the bottom skin before clecoing the side skins on -- and you can back-rivet these.

Step 7 - Alternatively, you can rivet the stiffeners to the rudder stop brace before inserting the F-1012 assembly in for final riveting.

Step 4 - If you plan to install additional air intakes for ventilation (e.g. an overhead console with air vents), you should purchase additional NACA vents from Van's (part SV-1) or at least find a good template and consider cutting the holes for these prior to riveting the side skins on to the tailcone.

Step 5 - If you already have the rudder cables, consider installing them along with rudder fairings (optional) at this point before riveting the aft deck. This will be MUCH easier to do now as some builders have reported spending several hours to do this step later. Instructions for installing the aft portion of the rudder cables are on page 38-8 (steps 1-4 is all you need to do at this point). If you also want to cover the plastic tubes on the side of the tailcone, see [[Rudder_Cable_Fairings]].

Step 2 -- before Cleco'ing and riveting the aft top skin, consider doing a few other things first

* Consider Page 10-23, Steps 3-5; it will be slightly easier without the skin in the way