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SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES: Difference between revisions
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* Consider waiting to install the windows until you have fully finished installing the doors. | * Consider using either Silpruf or Sikaflex to install the windows, as described below. | ||
* Silpruf Method | * Consider waiting to install the windows until you have fully finished installing the doors. Building, fitting, installing, and finishing the doors is easier if you can reach into the plane through the windows. | ||
* If you need deeper window joggles (for Silpruf or perhaps also for other methods), consider using a spacer (e.g. poly rod as mentioned earlier) to help increase joggle depth to 1/4". Consider extending to only 3/16" deep on the lower portion of each side window since that portion of the aircraft is flat and it is hard to blend in the increased depth. Note that after removing the poly rod you'll need to clean up the temporary epoxy and clean up the inside of the joggle. It can sometimes be hard to figure out where the edges of the original joggle was, especially on curves where it is hard to push the poly rod all the way tight against the whole radius of the turn. Consider adding color to your first batch of epoxy and filling in these gaps first. Later, when sanding, you'll see that color and know it was added on top of the original edge of the joggle. | |||
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.13.jpg|none|thumb|Window joggle depth increased to 1/4" deep (3/16" deep along the bottom edge) after the poly rod was removed. Note some epoxy did not adhere well because the radius was not sanded thoroughly enough.]] | |||
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.08.jpg|none|thumb|Side windows after joggle depth increased. Rear window poly rod has already been removed. Front window poly rod is still in place with temporary epoxy. Note at the bottom left corner there is some black-colored epoxy. This is where the rod did not fully fit into the radius and some black epoxy was pushed down in that gap. Later, when sanding, you can feel safe removing that black epoxy and rebuilding the original radius.]] | |||
=== Silpruf Method === | |||
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] | |||
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video] | |||
* See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]] | |||
* See also this [https://glasair-owners.com/glastar-sportsman/how-to-builder-tips-glastar-sportsman/glastar-and-sportsman-window-installation/ Glastar article]. | |||
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/10058622124258796 FB Thread]. | |||
* Notes | |||
** This method requires drilling holes along the edges of the windows. If your inside is in a finished state, this will cause patching / touch-ups after the window installation. | |||
** The video recommends 6 inch sanding discs which aren't readily available. 4 1/2” flap sander disks from Harbor Freight work as well. | |||
=== Sikaflex === | |||
* [http://www.westernmarine.com/acrobat/sik%20application%20guide.pdf General Sikaflex instructions] | |||
* [[Media:RV-10 Windows Install Sikaflex.pdf|Yannick B's write-up on using Sikaflex for the windows]]<br>Pictures are [https://yankeebravo.ch/en/finishing-kit/ here]. | |||
* This thread says one needs 4 tubes of Sika 295: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8764619076992447 FB thread] | |||
* A good read on window attachment is this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212770 VAF thread] | * A good read on window attachment is this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=212770 VAF thread] | ||
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6062115380576177 June 2023 FB thread] | * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6062115380576177 June 2023 FB thread] | ||