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SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES: Difference between revisions
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* Step 2: consider deferring the marking of the holes until you have installed the door seals and the strut. These items may slightly change where you want the door to sit. | * Step 2: consider deferring the marking of the holes until you have installed the door seals and the strut. These items may slightly change where you want the door to sit. | ||
* Step 2: You can still use this same method to mark the door sill even if you are using the upgraded PlaneAround machined door pins. Follow all instructions normally including cutting and tapping the Van's door pins. Then screw in the double-ended screw that came with the PlaneAround 180-degree latch. Then fabricate two 2" pieces of aluminum using the scraps from cutting the original Van's door pins. Tap both ends. Screw one end into the double-ended screw, then screw the fabricated pointy screws into the other end. | * Step 2: You can still use this same method to mark the door sill even if you are using the upgraded PlaneAround machined door pins. Follow all instructions normally including cutting and tapping the Van's door pins. Then screw in the double-ended screw that came with the PlaneAround 180-degree latch. Then fabricate two 2" pieces of aluminum using the scraps from cutting the original Van's door pins. Tap both ends. Screw one end into the double-ended screw, then screw the fabricated pointy screws into the other end. The photo below shows the pointy screw installed into the fabricated temporary tube which is screwed into the actual threaded door pin after it was cut. | ||
[[File:2025-07-05 11.56.15.jpg|none|thumb|Van's method to mark where to drill door pin holes into cabin top, but since the builder is using aftermarket PlaneAround machined pins, an temporary double-threaded spacer was used.]] | |||
== 45-16 == | == 45-16 == | ||