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SECTION 9: ELEVATORS: Difference between revisions
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Pre-dimple advice.
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(Pre-dimple advice.) |
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* Step 4: Some builders prefer CNC machined cable anchor brackets (WD-415) over the welded ones that come with the kit (Vans did have issues with the first version of them since they only had a weld on one side of the nut). Do your research before ordering a set from iflyrv10.com. See [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7196160973838273 this FB post].<br>Consider using fasteners instead of rivets to attach WD-415. If they are riveted, you need to rotate the entire access cover to adjust the length. It's possible, but it takes to move the F-1095A trim mount bracket all the way aft to have enough cable sticking out. | * Step 4: Some builders prefer CNC machined cable anchor brackets (WD-415) over the welded ones that come with the kit (Vans did have issues with the first version of them since they only had a weld on one side of the nut). Do your research before ordering a set from iflyrv10.com. See [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7196160973838273 this FB post].<br>Consider using fasteners instead of rivets to attach WD-415. If they are riveted, you need to rotate the entire access cover to adjust the length. It's possible, but it takes to move the F-1095A trim mount bracket all the way aft to have enough cable sticking out. | ||
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Before Step 12 (riveting the trailing edge), I suggest final-drilling #30 the most rearward #40 hole on the outboard end of each elevator. It's the hole that's forward of the most outboard hole in the trailing edge wedge. Then dimple it for AD4 rivets. | |||
You don't have anything to final-drill into yet (unless you want to jump ahead to Section 12), but if you wait until Section 12, you won't easily be able to dimple that particular rivet. I think it is fine if you pre-drill this one hole to #30 and then wait until the fairing is in place to do the others. | |||
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