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BRS Installation Hints: Difference between revisions
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→Top Rear Attachment Gussets
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== Top Rear Attachment Gussets == | == Top Rear Attachment Gussets == | ||
* If you position the | * If you position the gussets, check whether they potentially sit against clecos and aren't tucked in completely. If you install the parachute during the construction of the RV-10, the tailcone upper skin is still not riveted. Those rivets will sit against the outside of the bend in the upper gusset. Evaluate how much room will be needed for the dimples / shop heads. | ||
*The manual asks for a 7.5 inch distance between the center of the gussets. Being that close is really not easily achievable and the photos in the manual don't comply. | *The manual asks for a 7.5 inch distance between the center of the gussets. Being that close is really not easily achievable and the photos in the manual don't comply. | ||
* On the right side, the gusset needs to anyway sit further to the outside because of the vertical baggage bulkhead channel (F-1028). The gusset therefore overlaps the outside J-stiffener (F-1047) and you actually need to maximize the overlap to have proper edge distance for the rivet holes that go through the gusset. It also requires to make the gusset thinner where the stiffener overlaps. The overlap can easily be marked after match drilling and bolt installment if the top skin is taken off. The rivet holes in the gusset need to be counter sunk as the stiffener is dimpled.<br>[[File:2023-04-30 17-30-20.jpg|400x400px]] | * On the right side, the gusset needs to anyway sit further to the outside because of the vertical baggage bulkhead channel (F-1028). The gusset therefore overlaps the outside J-stiffener (F-1047) and you actually need to maximize the overlap to have proper edge distance for the rivet holes that go through the gusset. It also requires to make the gusset thinner where the stiffener overlaps. The overlap can easily be marked after match drilling and bolt installment if the top skin is taken off. The rivet holes in the gusset need to be counter sunk as the stiffener is dimpled.<br>[[File:2023-04-30 17-30-20.jpg|400x400px]] | ||
* If you locate the left angle bracket 7.5 inches center to center apart from the right one, the bracket overlaps the center J-stiffener at a slanted angle which doesn't work as some rivet holes will have bad edge distances. A compromise is to overlap the center stiffener just a tiny bit at the front. The center to center distance is then 8 5/8 inches. The gusset needs to be thinned to accommodate the short stiffener overlap.<br>[[File:2023-04-29 16-51-35.jpg|400x400px]]<br>Picture shows temporary fasteners installed inside out for convenience.<br>[[File:2023-04-30 17-37-36.jpg|400x400px]] | * If you locate the left angle bracket 7.5 inches center to center apart from the right one, the bracket overlaps the center J-stiffener at a slanted angle which doesn't work as some rivet holes will have bad edge distances. A compromise is to overlap the center stiffener just a tiny bit at the front. The center to center distance is then 8 5/8 inches. The gusset needs to be thinned to accommodate the short stiffener overlap.<br>[[File:2023-04-29 16-51-35.jpg|400x400px]]<br>Picture shows temporary fasteners installed inside out for convenience.<br>[[File:2023-04-30 17-37-36.jpg|400x400px]] | ||
*The fastener holes need a #19 drill. | *The fastener holes need a #19 drill. | ||
*The two larger 1/4 inch holes that need to be match drilled should be pre-drilled with a smaller diameter drill bit first using the 1/4 to 1/8 inch bushing which comes with the RV-10 kit. | *The two larger 1/4 inch holes that need to be match drilled should be pre-drilled with a smaller diameter drill bit first using the 1/4 to 1/8 inch bushing which comes with the RV-10 kit. | ||
*The big round hole of the angle bracket that needs to be match-drilled into the top skin has the size of a 1.5 inch conduit (actual hole size: 1.951 inches). Very easy to do with a hydraulic punch, e.g. [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RT8RKQL at Amazon]. Suitable should also be a bare punch set that uses a bolt instead of hydraulics, e.g. [https://www.amazon.com/AMZCNC-Conduit-Knockout-Punch-Manual/dp/B0B5K9L2CW/ref=sr_1_6 at Amazon]. | *The big round hole of the angle bracket that needs to be match-drilled into the top skin has the size of a 1.5 inch conduit (actual hole size: 1.951 inches). Very easy to do with a hydraulic punch, e.g. [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RT8RKQL at Amazon]. Suitable should also be a bare punch set that uses a bolt instead of hydraulics, e.g. [https://www.amazon.com/AMZCNC-Conduit-Knockout-Punch-Manual/dp/B0B5K9L2CW/ref=sr_1_6 at Amazon]. | ||
== Bottom Rear Attachment Bracket == | == Bottom Rear Attachment Bracket == | ||
* The manual says to avoid interference with the longitudinal stringers however, the brackets don't fit between them. The photos also show overlap. One needs to grind away a bit to allow space for the stringer. | * The manual says to avoid interference with the longitudinal stringers however, the brackets don't fit between them. The photos also show overlap. One needs to grind away a bit to allow space for the stringer. | ||