BRS Installation Hints: Difference between revisions

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== Rear Top Angle Brackets ==
== Top Rear Attachment Gussets ==
*The manual asks for a 7.5 inch distance between the center of the brackets. That is really not achievable. On the right side, the angle bracket needs to sit further to the right because of the center strut. It overlaps the outside J-stiffener with the potential to have poor edge distance, so you need to place it as far towards the stiffener as you can. There will then be a small gap at the vertical strut. If you locate the left angle bracket 7.5 inches apart, the bracket overlaps the center J-stiffener at a slanted angle. A compromise is to overlap the center stiffener just a tiny bit so you can still reach the rivet line. It requires grinding a bit off the angle bracket with the deburring wheel to make room for the j-stiffener in the short overlap area. The distance is then around 8.5 inches. The right angle bracket will overlap the outer j-stiffener completely. This requires also grinding down the overlap.<br>[[File:2023-04-29 16-51-35.jpg|400x400px]]<br>Picture shows temporary fasteners installed inside out for convenience.
* The manual asks for a 7.5 inch distance between the center of the top rear attachment gussets. Being that close is really not easily achievable and the photos in the manual don't comply.
* On the right side, the gusset needs to anyway sit further to the outside because of the vertical baggage bulkhead channel (F-1028). The gusset therefore overlaps the outside J-stiffener (F-1047) and you actually need to maximize the overlap to have proper edge distance for the rivet holes. It requires grinding off the gusset with the deburring wheel to accommodate the stiffener. The overlap can easily be marked after match drilling and bolt installment if the top skin is taken off. The rivet holes in the gusset need to be counter sunk as the stiffener is dimpled.
* If you locate the left angle bracket 7.5 inches center to center apart from the right one, the bracket overlaps the center J-stiffener at a slanted angle which doesn't work as some rivet holes will have bad edge distances. A compromise is to overlap the center stiffener just a tiny bit at the front. The center to center distance is then 8 5/8 inches. It requires grinding a bit off the gusset with the deburring wheel to accommodate the stiffener.  
<br>[[File:2023-04-29 16-51-35.jpg|400x400px]]<br>Picture shows temporary fasteners installed inside out for convenience.
*The big round hole of the angle bracket that needs to be match-drilled into the top skin has the size of a 1.5 inch conduit (actual hole size: 1.951 inches). Very easy to do with a hydraulic punch, e.g. [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RT8RKQL at Amazon]. Suitable is also just a bare punch set that uses a bolt instead of hydraulics, e.g. [https://www.amazon.com/AMZCNC-Conduit-Knockout-Punch-Manual/dp/B0B5K9L2CW/ref=sr_1_6 at Amazon].
*The big round hole of the angle bracket that needs to be match-drilled into the top skin has the size of a 1.5 inch conduit (actual hole size: 1.951 inches). Very easy to do with a hydraulic punch, e.g. [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RT8RKQL at Amazon]. Suitable is also just a bare punch set that uses a bolt instead of hydraulics, e.g. [https://www.amazon.com/AMZCNC-Conduit-Knockout-Punch-Manual/dp/B0B5K9L2CW/ref=sr_1_6 at Amazon].
*The two larger 1/4 inch holes that need to be match drilled should be pre-drilled with a smaller diameter drill bit first using the 1/4 to 1/8 inch bushing which comes with the RV-10 kit.
*The two larger 1/4 inch holes that need to be match drilled should be pre-drilled with a smaller diameter drill bit first using the 1/4 to 1/8 inch bushing which comes with the RV-10 kit.
*Note: If you place the angle, check where the angle potentially sits against clecos and isn't tucked in completely.
*Note: If you place the angle, check where the angle potentially sits against clecos and isn't tucked in completely.
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