3,777
edits
Airflow Systems: Difference between revisions
Jump to navigation
Jump to search
→Hints
mNo edit summary |
(→Hints) |
||
| Line 15: | Line 15: | ||
* The holes in the scoop need to be countersunk for Tinnerman washers. A great tool is [https://www.permagrit.com/large-countersink-100-degree-no-nipple/ Countersink 100º, No Nipple, 11.5mm dia., LC5 from Permagrit] (they ship directly from England). | * The holes in the scoop need to be countersunk for Tinnerman washers. A great tool is [https://www.permagrit.com/large-countersink-100-degree-no-nipple/ Countersink 100º, No Nipple, 11.5mm dia., LC5 from Permagrit] (they ship directly from England). | ||
* There are two options for routing the hoses: through the tunnel or within the side walls. The kit contains only the fittings for the tunnel option (which needs "Z" adapters for the condenser; for routing in the side walls, you need plain 90 degree adapters on the condenser). Specify which routing you want when ordering. | * There are two options for routing the hoses: through the tunnel or within the side walls. The kit contains only the fittings for the tunnel option (which needs "Z" adapters for the condenser; for routing in the side walls, you need plain 90 degree adapters on the condenser). Specify which routing you want when ordering. | ||
*The cables are brought out on the bottom. There is no grommet and the cables chafe inside the evaporator housing at the fan controller. Consider making a new hole at the top, install a grommet and bring the cables out there. Close the hole on the bottom with a piece of aluminum and 4 pop rivets. | |||
*The manual doesn't recommend what to use for sealing against air leaks. PERMATEX # 2 SEALANT seems to do a great job. | |||
*There are a lot of loose ends when mounting the evaporator, here is one way of getting it mounted: | |||
*#Attach the 3D-printed inlet vents to the evaporator using the bulkhead cutouts for those vents to align them parallel and with the right distance between them. The vents are not symmetrical, there is a left and right one. Check the notch on the bottom to align with the seam of the evaporator housing. There are no extra pop rivets for the nut-plates, be careful that you do grab the nut-plate before setting the rivets. The screws are really hard to get into the nut-pates. Consider putting each nut-plate in a vice and test-driving the screw in once with a bit of lube and an electric impact driver before mounting them. | |||
*#Clamp the bulkhead to the fuselage. Center it left/right by measuring the edge distance at the bottom, should be some 24mm. One of the two holes near the center on the bottom edge will line up with the vertical tailcone strut. Now draw a line with the measured edge distance parallel to the tailcone bulkhead outer edge to outline where the AC bulkhead needs to sit, so it's centered and the left and right edge runs parallel to the outer skin. | |||
*#Attach the front bracket to the evaporator. | |||
*#Use wooden shims to align the evaporator with the inlet vent holes. The front bracket needs to sit on a shim (about 3/4 of an inch) and the rear end of the evaporator needs to sit on a shim (about an inch). Make sure the evaporator doesn't sit too high as the pipe fixtures that stick out of the evaporator might then interfere with the J-stringer on the right side. | |||
*#Drill a hole on each side into the evaporator at the top hole of the rear bracket. Put an 8-32 nutsert anchor in, attach the rear bracket and mount the rear bracket on the shelf. | |||
*[[File:2022-09-17 19-11-03.jpg|600x600px]] | |||