SECTION 12: EMPENNAGE FAIRINGS

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Special/New Tools/Supplies

If this is your first time doing fiberglass work, start here. It's worth figuring it all out and getting good at it now because for most builders this is the start of quite a bit of fiberglass work in your future.
Epoxy has a shelf life; purchasing one quart will be plenty for this stage and you may also be able to use it for the wingtips.

Modifications to Consider

It may be easier to purchase your tail light before attaching the rudder bottom fairing.

Step 1: Good results were achieved by clamping an aluminum strip along the recess edge and then using a Dremel with router attachment to square the edge. Even though the Dremel has the potential to eat into the aluminum strip, one can guide the Dremel in a fashion where it barely touches the strip.
Step 4: I was unable to dimple the most rearward of the skin holes for a #30 hole and I had to purchase this tool: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/12-00612.php

It is possible to 3D-print a mold and lay up a fiberglass cap that goes onto the leading edge of E-912 instead of building it up to match the curvature of E-913. The 3D-print project is here at Onshape. The 3D-printer file is here HS_Fairing_Mold1.stl.
It is possible to 3D-print a mold and lay up a fiberglass insert that goes into HS-910. It has the right curvature and it has the necessary kink to match the Elevator counter weight leading edge. The 3D-print project is here at Onshape. The 3D-printer file is here HS_Fairing_Mold2.stl

Step 6: There is no machine countersink bit with a pilot that would fit exactly into the threaded part of a #6 screw (#36 hole), only for the #28 hole that the screw goes through. Use the countersink bit for 3/32 rivets (#40).

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