SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM
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Page 40-3 Bellcrank jig
- The bellcrank jig comes in the wing kit and at this point you may have possibly misplaced it. The measurement from the bottom of the jig to the 1/4 inch hole shown in Figure 2 is 1 & 31/32 inch if you want to make your own.
Page 40-4
- Step 4: See this pdf with 4 templates for the cutout with rounding radiuses applied. Print at 100%. The outer corner dimensions on the printout should be 2.5" * 1.75".
Page 40-5
- Alternate way to install the torque tubes: instead of inserting the torque tubes like Figure 1 on page 40-5, instead slightly enlarge the holes in the wing roots so you can insert the torque tubes from the outside. Put both torque tubes in the freezer for about four hours. This mades it easy to slide the plastic bushings in place. The tolerances loosen up considerably between the plastic blocks and the steel tubes. Don't forget the central flap crank and make sure to position the UHMW plastic blocks before everything warms up.
Page 40-6
- Consider deferring Step 1 until after bolting the outboard flap cranks (Page 40-8, Step 1). Numerous other builders have remarked that access is difficult when bolting the WD-1013 horns in the confined space along the fuselage sides. By not bolting the torque tubes to the central crank arm at this time, it allows you to spin/orient the outboard horns/torque tubes in any orientation thus making bolt installation easier. After this step, you can bolt the central crank arm to the torque tubes. Make sure everything is clocked correctly.
Flap Position Sensor
- The old flap motor (before mid 2022) has no built-in position sensor and needs an external POS-12 sensor. See section Flap_Position_Sensor
Testing the flap motor
- Some seem to be able to test their flap motor/actuator with a 9 volt battery, where others report you need a 12 volt battery to run the motor. This appears to be due to different generations of actuators.