SECTION 27: FIREWALL
Note: the firewall will really cut you up until you thoroughly deburr it; just another note here if you don't take the note seriously in the manual.
Build Instruction Updates
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Videos
Supplies
- Suggest using this instead of fuel tank sealant in/around the firewall (I used it around F-1039D and in the next chapter on the lower flange of the firewall): https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/firewall2000caulk.php
- Consider upgrading the TG-10-R and TG-10-L cabin heat selector boxes to stainless steel: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/heaterbypass3.php
- I found that I needed a double-offset back rivet set that wasn't mentioned in the official tool list: https://cleavelandtool.com/products/12-long-double-offset-back-rivet-set
- You might want 1ft of this (see below): https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/koolmat.php
Firewall Breakdown
You don't need to (and probably shouldn't) do any firewall customizations at this stage, but for current and future reference here is what the various firewall nutplates and penetrations are for per the plans. Note that most people do not need the manifold passthrough and that can be used for something else. Other people use a battery passthrough post instead of using the provided hole (the hole can be enlargened for that purpose). Most people need to add passthroughs for low-voltage wiring, nutplates for shunts or fuses, ground block, etc.
PAGE 27-1
You may want to trim the flanges of F-1001M Left Side Angle and F-1001D Right Side Angle. The bold text in Section 29, page 29-14 indicates that it is acceptable to do so, but I think it would be a lot easier to do it here. You'll need to be able to match-drill four holes and each end of each Side Angle is in the way of that match drill.
If you want to do this, you'll want to trim the flange (the part that points aft of the firewall) at each end of each part. I'd suggest trimming 3" from each end of each flange. Here is a picture showing what it looked like after I had to trim it later to give you an idea of the shape you'll need to cut out of the flanges.
PAGE 27-2
- For additional info on the firewall in general, see also section QB_Fuselage
- Step 3: Plan your control cables pass-throughs before drilling here -- you may not want to drill these even for a Lycoming engine.
- Some people have used an "eyeball" type here that may require different spacing than the pre-punched holes provided in the kit.
Many use these for the control cable penetrations (at Spruce: EYEBALL FIREWALL FITTING- SS PRESSURE PLATE - STEEL TTP):
More products are here: https://www.firewallfittings.com/product/ttp-s/
You may need to order custom diameter pass-throughs here, for example, the California "176-VTT"-type Push Pull cables have an OD of .34, so a custom OD of .345 may be appropriate. You can also order double hole ones here
. - Look ahead in the plans to see if you want to do the double plastic bushing. The RV-14 kit uses an FF-00001 to penetrate the firewall:
- Many people have used the following pass-thru with the RV-10 (at Spruce: Avery SS Firewall Pass-Thru):
- If you plan to install electronic injection (SDS or EFII) or a fuel purge valve, mirror the 9/16 hole over to the left side as you will need two.
Step 4
- Several builders are reporting that part WD-1002-L-PC / WD-1002-R-PC is being labelled incorrectly. If you ended up with two of the same kind, Vans will be happy to swap them out.
Step 5
It mentions fourteen K1000-3 nutplates but there aren't nearly that many shown on Figure 2. There are fifteen shown on page 27-5. I believe it is referring to all of the K1000-3s shown on 27-5 except the one on the F-1001G-R Gusset.
Step 6
It mentions in Step 7 (and on page 27-5) that two of the nutplates are mounted on the forward side of the firewall. You will want to dimple opposite for the nutplate at the lower center of the firewall that is mounted on the forward side. The other nutplate that is mounted on the forward side is behind F-1001B so does not need to be dimpled on either side of F-1001A.
One of the nutplates mounted to F-1001B is mounted on the forward side of the firewall, which means you don't need to countersink the mounting holes into F-1001B for that one nutplate (as shown on page 27-5).
Step 7
- Note when riveting F-1001M Left Side Angle, you need to leave the 2 holes that intersect the Oil Cooler Box Attach Holes open so that they can be used to attach the oil cooler in Section FF1-2
PAGE 27-3
- Step 1: be careful not to get too close to the nutplate pattern at the top of F-1048-R.
- Part F-1051J Scat Tube Support is installed on Page 50-2, Step 1.
PAGE 27-4
- Step 1: In order to nest the aluminum and steel parts and make the holes align, it's necessary to file F-1001E-L/R as indicated in figure 1.
- Step 1: The WD-1004 nose gear tension fitting is the same part for left and right. The tooling hole will be on the upper rib on the left and the lower rib on the right side.
- Step 3: I think these need to be a bit deeper countersinks to fully fit the stainless dimples
- Step 5: Note that F-1001G-L gusset has a nutplate pattern but it isn't shown on the plans. I believe you do not need a nutplate on the left version (but you do need one on the F-1001G-R).
- Step 6: The manual doesn't spell out that you need to dimple the screw holes of the K1100-08 nutplates along the top (but not the screw holes for the K1000-08 nutplates along the bottom). See page 26-2, step 5 as reference.
- Step 6: Pay attention that the nutplates on the top edge of F-1048-L and F-1048-R are on the inside of the tunnel, while the nutplates that are on the bottom edge are on the outside of the tunnel (they will be under the front floors). At least one builder has put all nutplates on the inside of the tunnel even though the pictures clearly show otherwise.
- Step 8:
- If you are planning to use the Andair fuel selector you might want to hold off riveting the F-1048C-1 Fuel Valve Bracket to the fwd fuselage ribs, as the Andair selector does not fit this bracket.
- Check for a potential gap between the WD-1004 Nose Gear Tension Fittings and the firewall. If so, check for interference between the flange of the center angle and the F-1001C lower channel. The center angle and channel must be sitting flush with each other relative to the firewall. See also this FB post.
PAGE 27-6
Step 2: I don't know how you are supposed to rivet F-1039D to the firewall recess. My rivet gun won't fit into the recess. I used a double-offset back rivet head (not included in the standard tool kits for RV-10) on the inside of the firewall but it wasn't the cleanest rivet job.
Note: most people replace the aluminum TG-10-R and TG-10-L cabin heat selector boxes with stainless steel versions. You also might want to insulate the cabin from these valves so that heat doesn't transfer even when the valves are closed. See photos here: https://vansairforce.net/threads/whats-the-current-situation-with-tunnel-heat.229428/post-1791102
Plans for the heat box are a 1 pager and separate to all the other Vans plans. A copy is here
