SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS: Difference between revisions

← Older edit

SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS (view source)

Revision as of 19:51, 21 September 2025

1,331 bytes added , 21 September

27-17 - check the F-1013-R longeron length before riveting.

VisualWikitext

Elorozco1

3

edits

@@ Line 19: / Line 19: @@
 * The trailing edge should be 70-75 degrees
 * This applies to the fold on the forward side skin as well.
+* You want to end up with a gradual curve, not a crease, especially on the trailing end. So you don't want to fold the skin, you want to roll it. Pushing down or even out while twisting should keep the skin in a curve instead of a bend.
+See a [https://vansairforce.net/threads/section-29-side-skin-bending-a-good-reason-to-go-the-quick-build-route.237939/ discussion on VAF] for more details.
 == 29-6 ==
@@ Line 76: / Line 78: @@
 == 29-14 ==
-* Step2<br>Instead of drilling F-1013 through the F-1039J jig at this point, it is much easier (and more accurate) to wait until the F-1013 is removed and then drill these holes on the bench.  I found it is more important to ensure that the F-1039J jig edge is parallel to the edge of F-1013 than to use the #30 rivet holes to set this. If those #30 holes are slightly off, the error will be magnified in the position of the rudder assembly bolt holes.  If the F-1039J is not parallel to F-1013, remove all but one cleco, then make the jig parallel, then drill the most aft of the bolt holes.  Cleco this hole and drill the remaining bolt holes.
+* Step 2<br>Instead of drilling F-1013 through the F-1039J jig at this point, it is much easier (and more accurate) to wait until the F-1013 is removed and then drill these holes on the bench.  I found it is more important to ensure that the F-1039J jig edge is parallel to the edge of F-1013 than to use the #30 rivet holes to set this. If those #30 holes are slightly off, the error will be magnified in the position of the rudder assembly bolt holes.  If the F-1039J is not parallel to F-1013, remove all but one cleco, then make the jig parallel, then drill the most aft of the bolt hole.  Cleco this hole and drill the remaining bolt holes.
 * Step 5<br>When match drilling from the F-1001B angle into the WD-1002-L / WD-1002-R firewall steel brackets, be aware that it's easy to violate the edge distance in the steel bracket (2 x D, measured from the center of hole). The remedy is to temporarily install a bolt into the engine mount hole to pull the bracket into place and to use a clamp to move the steel bracket to increase edge distance.<br>See [http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=nbnrv10&project=572&category=6009&log=254638&row=60 this build log]<br>[[File:Screen Shot 2024-01-22 at 11.29.55 AM.png|300x300px]]
@@ Line 104: / Line 106: @@
 * Step 9: It's not clear, but when countersinking the #40 outside holes on the F-1013 Forward Fuselage Longerons, you should do all of them -- the #40 holes common to both the F-01069 Fwd Sdie Skins and F-1070 Mid Side Skins. Additionally, do NOT countersink the #30 holes on the F-01004K Center Section Side Plates; only countersink the #40 holes on these pieces.
+* Additional Step:  Machine countersink the two #40 holes that are common from F-01088-R-1 tabs into F-010020R-1 and into F-01042-R-1.  Repeat for the left side.
 == 29-15 ==
 * Questions on which holes to dimple? See [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5839137336207317 this FB thread]. Another [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6453842408070137 FB thread on the same topic]
+* The instructions say, "Dimple the single hole in the forward tab of the F-01088-L -1 & -R-1 Fwd Fuselage Ribs".  Dimple the aft tabs also.
 == 29-16 ==
+* Step 4: Rivet the F-1042E-L/R brackets to F-01042-L/R before clecoing the F-1040 side channels.  It is easier setting these rivets now than after the side channels are installed.
 * Step 5: The most forward rivet on the bottom part of the lower firewall bracket is hard to reach. Some trim the top flange of the bracket to allow for using an offset rivet set, others use a large 16" Knipex pair of pliers with a makeshift die for the manufactured head. See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8092829177504777 FB thread].<br>[[File:Screenshot 2024-09-13 at 8.27.25 AM.png|300x300px]]
 == 29-17 ==
+* Step 1:  Before riveting the F-1013-R longeron to the F-1070-R side skin, cleco the tailcone bulkhead to the F-1070-L/R side skins and verify the F-1013-R is not interfering (i.e., too long) with the F-1006-C bulkhead placement.  In my case I needed to trim about 1/16" of the end of the longeron to allow the bulkhead holes to line up with the skin holes. Much easier to do this when you can pull the longeron away from the skin to do the trimming.
 * Some of the holes around the door opening are left open. You will cleco the door to the frame using those in order to 1) get the correct position of the door within the insert and 2) lock in the airframe shape into the door when bonding the door shells together. These blanks allow you a place to insert the clecos to hold it. Once the doors are bonded and door install complete, you then rivet those remaining. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9301782943276055 FB thread].
 * Assuming you are not considering installing wiring under the rear floors (you shouldn't), you might consider installing the rear floor pans now before the side skins are installed, while it is easier to get access.  See page 35-2.