SECTION 7: RUDDER: Difference between revisions

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7-6 step 12 was mislabeled as 7-7 step 12
m (7-6 step 12 was mislabeled as 7-7 step 12)
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==== Page 7-6 Step 11 ====
==== Page 7-6 Step 11 ====
"The holes" refers to the holes in the skin that are common to the rudder skeleton as defined in step 6. The bottom row of holes where the fairing attaches is not touched in this section, rather in section 12, page 12-3, steps 2 and 3.
"The holes" refers to the holes in the skin that are common to the rudder skeleton as defined in step 6. The bottom row of holes where the fairing attaches is not touched in this section, rather in section 12, page 12-3, steps 2 and 3.
==== Page 7-6 Step 12 ====
You can buy a pre-made jig for easily countersinking the trailing edge: https://cleavelandtool.com/products/countersink-jig-for-rv-trailing-edge-wedge


==== Page 7-7 Step 1 ====
==== Page 7-7 Step 1 ====
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This may be your first time back-riveting. You don't need to cleko these in place. The quickest method is to insert all of the rivets for the ribs, then cover with rivet tape. Then flip it over and add a rib, back-rivet, then add the next rib, etc. Be very careful that you confirm the back-rivet plate, though. Some of the longer ribs may be longer than your back-rivet plate.
This may be your first time back-riveting. You don't need to cleko these in place. The quickest method is to insert all of the rivets for the ribs, then cover with rivet tape. Then flip it over and add a rib, back-rivet, then add the next rib, etc. Be very careful that you confirm the back-rivet plate, though. Some of the longer ribs may be longer than your back-rivet plate.
==== Page 7-7 Step 12 ====
You can buy a pre-made jig for easily countersinking the trailing edge: https://cleavelandtool.com/products/countersink-jig-for-rv-trailing-edge-wedge


==== Page 7-9 ====
==== Page 7-9 ====
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