SECTION 12: EMPENNAGE FAIRINGS: Difference between revisions

Revision as of 13:41, 23 February 2025

Check for more recent updates here

Special/New Tools/Supplies

Modifications to Consider

It may be easier to purchase your tail light before attaching the rudder bottom fairing.

Step 1: Good results were achieved by clamping an aluminum strip along the recess edge and then using a Dremel with router attachment to square the edge. Even though the Dremel has the potential to eat into the aluminum strip, one can guide the Dremel in a fashion where it barely touches the strip.
Step 4: I was unable to dimple the most rearward of the skin holes for a #30 hole and I had to purchase this tool: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/12-00612.php

It is possible to 3D-print a mold and lay up a fiberglass cap that goes onto the leading edge of E-912 instead of building it up to match the curvature of E-913. The 3D-print project is here at Onshape. The 3D-printer file is here HS_Fairing_Mold1.stl.
It is possible to 3D-print a mold and lay up a fiberglass insert that goes into HS-910. It has the right curvature and it has the necessary kink to match the Elevator counter weight leading edge. The 3D-print project is here at Onshape. The 3D-printer file is here HS_Fairing_Mold2.stl

Step 6: There is no machine countersink bit with a pilot that would fit exactly into the threaded part of a #6 screw (#36 hole), only for the #28 hole that the screw goes through. Use the countersink bit for 3/32 rivets (#40).

@@ Line 2: / Line 2: @@
 * N/A
 Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
+=== Before You Start ===
+Special/New Tools/Supplies
+* If this is your first time doing fiberglass work, [https://vansaircraftbuilders.com/fiberglass-101.aspx start here]
+Modifications to Consider
+* It may be easier to purchase your tail light before attaching the rudder bottom fairing.
 == Page 12-2 ==