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SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES: Difference between revisions
SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES (view source)
Revision as of 07:35, 24 March 2026
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== 45-04 == | == 45-04 == | ||
* Step 6: The doubler does not fit well. It is possible to reduce some of the bend but if you press too hard, the edge flange will buckle. Do not try to grind a curvature into the fiberglass, it is too thin. Consider using a thick layer of flox or cabosil epoxy mix to bridge the gap between the inner door half and the doubler. | * Step 6: The doubler does not fit well. It is possible to reduce some of the bend but if you press too hard, the edge flange will buckle. Do not try to grind a curvature into the fiberglass, it is too thin. Consider using a thick layer of flox or cabosil epoxy mix to bridge the gap between the inner door half and the doubler. | ||
* Step 7: Keep the surface of the doubler clean in the area where the strut attach bracket will later sit. You will be using pull rivets to attach the bracket and the rivets need a flush surface to not get crooked during pulling. | |||
== 45-05 == | == 45-05 == | ||
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[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.13.jpg|none|thumb|Window joggle depth increased to 1/4" deep (3/16" deep along the bottom edge) after the poly rod was removed. Note some epoxy did not adhere well because the radius was not sanded thoroughly enough.]] | [[File:2025-07-28 14.46.13.jpg|none|thumb|Window joggle depth increased to 1/4" deep (3/16" deep along the bottom edge) after the poly rod was removed. Note some epoxy did not adhere well because the radius was not sanded thoroughly enough.]] | ||
[[File:2025-07-28 14.46.08.jpg|none|thumb|Side windows after joggle depth increased. Rear window poly rod has already been removed. Front window poly rod is still in place with temporary epoxy. Note at the bottom left corner there is some black-colored epoxy. This is where the rod did not fully fit into the radius and some black epoxy was pushed down in that gap. Later, when sanding, you can feel safe removing that black epoxy and rebuilding the original radius.]] | [[File:2025-07-28 14.46.08.jpg|none|thumb|Side windows after joggle depth increased. Rear window poly rod has already been removed. Front window poly rod is still in place with temporary epoxy. Note at the bottom left corner there is some black-colored epoxy. This is where the rod did not fully fit into the radius and some black epoxy was pushed down in that gap. Later, when sanding, you can feel safe removing that black epoxy and rebuilding the original radius.]] | ||
== Window Bonding == | |||
{| class="wikitable" | |||
|+Silpruf vs. Sikaflex | |||
! | |||
!Silpruf SCS2000 | |||
!Sikaflex 295-UV | |||
|- | |||
|Chemistry | |||
|Silicone | |||
|Polyurethane | |||
|- | |||
|Consistency | |||
|paste | |||
|thick | |||
|- | |||
|Application | |||
|regular Caulk Gun | |||
|High Thrust Caulk and Adhesive Gun | |||
|- | |||
|UV Resistance | |||
|100% UV resistant | |||
|May be affected by UV long term | |||
|- | |||
|Activator/Cleaner/Primers | |||
|consider using SS4044P primer for gelcoat side | |||
|consider using activator cleaner, then two different primers for window / gelcoat side | |||
|- | |||
|Later Window Replacement | |||
|Old window can be cut out with blade or string. | |||
|Very hard to remove old window / sealant, needs grinder. | |||
|- | |||
|Tensile strength | |||
|341 psi (ASTM D412), 140.5 psi (ASTM C1135) | |||
|290 psi (CQP036-1 / ISO 527) | |||
|- | |||
|Elongation | |||
|715% (ASTM D412), 353% (ASTM C1135) | |||
|500% (CQP036-1 / ISO 527) | |||
|- | |||
|Sanding / Painting | |||
|Cannot be sanded or painted. Must not spill onto surfaces to be painted later. | |||
|Can be sanded and painted. | |||
|- | |||
|Temperature range | |||
| -55F to 300F | |||
| -58F to 194F | |||
|- | |||
|Work Life | |||
|30-40 min | |||
|45 min | |||
|- | |||
|Cure time | |||
|2-3 mm thickness per 24h at 73F and 50% humidity | |||
|2-3 mm thickness per 24h at 73F and 50% humidity | |||
|- | |||
|Application environment | |||
|40F to 122F | |||
|50F to 90F | |||
|- | |||
|Price | |||
|Sealant: $10.25 per 10 oz @ Sunshine Supply | |||
Primer Canopy side (SS4044P): $97.95 @ Sunshine Supply | |||
Primer Window side: none | |||
|Sealant: $24.79 @ Westmarine | |||
Activator/Cleaner (205, Clear): $33.09 @ Westmarine | |||
Primer Canopy side: (206 G+P): $96.57 @ Westmarine | |||
Primer Window side: (209D, Black): $112.55 @ Westmarine | |||
|} | |||
=== Silpruf Method === | === Silpruf Method === | ||
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SCS2000Slnt10ozStdCrt Silpruf @ Sunshine Supply] | |||
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] (note that more colors may be available from other sources); you will need at least 2 standard tubes, possibly 3 total. | * [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] (note that more colors may be available from other sources); you will need at least 2 standard tubes, possibly 3 total. | ||
* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SS4044Prmr1PtUnt SS4044P Primer for Silpruf (cabin side) @ Sunshine Supply] | |||
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video] | * [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video] | ||
* See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]] | * See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]] | ||