SECTION 45: CABIN DOORS & TRANSPARENCIES: Difference between revisions

* Consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/rv-10-ss-angled-door-pins-and-delrin-pin-guides upgraded door pins and guides]. They are made of polished stainless steel vs. hollow aluminum tubes, and the thicker guides are forcing the door into a specific left/right position when closing.

* The plans provide instructions for fitting the hinges to the LHS door, and Step 3 provides the positions for the WD-1019-L and WD-1019-R hinges. The plans then instruct the builder to 'repeat this step for the right side door hinges'. Note: the WD-1019-L hinges must be placed on the left side, "-R" on the right side if you stand in front of each door and look at it.

* More than one  AN960-10 washer will likely be required on some of the screws in order to get them to tighten up. Add more washers as needed.

* Check that the top edge of the door is flush with the cabin top and add shims underneath the door side hinge tab if you need to raise the door. For example, the rear hinge might need a 0.080", and the forward hinge might need a 0.060 shim.<br>[[File:WD-1019-L-R Hinges.jpg|300px|Cabin door hinge placement]]<br>See also section 4:<br>[[File:Screen_Shot_2024-04-03_at_8.29.19_AM.png|500px]]

* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] (note that more colors may be available from other sources); you will need at least 2 standard tubes, possibly 3 total.

* [https://www.sunshinesupply.com/SS4044Prmr1PtUnt SS4044P Primer for Silpruf (cabin side) @ Sunshine Supply]

* Step 2: You can still use this same method to mark the door sill even if you are using the upgraded PlaneAround machined door pins. Follow all instructions normally including cutting and tapping the Van's door pins. Then screw in the double-ended screw that came with the PlaneAround 180-degree latch. Then fabricate two 2" pieces of aluminum using the scraps from cutting the original Van's door pins. Tap both ends. Screw one end into the double-ended screw, then screw the fabricated pointy screws into the other end. The photo below shows the pointy screw installed into the fabricated temporary tube which is screwed into the actual threaded door pin after it was cut.<br>[[File:2025-07-05 11.56.15.jpg|none|thumb|Van's method to mark where to drill door pin holes into cabin top, but since the builder is using aftermarket PlaneAround machined pins, an temporary double-threaded spacer was used.]][[File:20260212 002717 FFD36479.jpg|none|thumb|Alternatively to the above elongation method for the pointers, one can add layers of shrink tube and or tape around the pointer so it sits tightly in the guide. The trimmed tubes are long enough to accomplish the marking up step.]]

 

==== Step 1 ====

* Check the position of the strut versus the hinge. The innermost hole of the strut is about at the position where the hinge pin resides. If you mount the strut bracket too far outwards, the bracket for the strut on the door end cannot be placed above the window, it would overlap with the window.

* If you are getting the Aerosport overhead panel, you need to match drill the door strut attach bracket to the canopy before attaching the overhead panel. It is necessary to notch the overhead panel for the bracket.

* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, do not match drill with a #12 bit since the holes are already threaded for 10-32 bolts. Consider match drilling with a #22 bit, then enlarging the hole to size #12. You may have to chase the bracket threads with a 10-32 tap if the #22 drill bit damaged them.

 

==== Step 3 ====

* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, two of the four bushings need to be narrower, 3/8 inch instead of 9/16.