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SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS: Difference between revisions
27-17 - check the F-1013-R longeron length before riveting.
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(27-17 - check the F-1013-R longeron length before riveting.) |
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* The trailing edge should be 70-75 degrees | * The trailing edge should be 70-75 degrees | ||
* This applies to the fold on the forward side skin as well. | * This applies to the fold on the forward side skin as well. | ||
* You want to end up with a gradual curve, not a crease, especially on the trailing end. So you don't want to fold the skin, you want to roll it. Pushing down or even out while twisting should keep the skin in a curve instead of a bend. | |||
See a [https://vansairforce.net/threads/section-29-side-skin-bending-a-good-reason-to-go-the-quick-build-route.237939/ discussion on VAF] for more details. | |||
== 29-6 == | == 29-6 == | ||
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== 29-16 == | == 29-16 == | ||
* Step 4: Rivet the F-1042E-L/R brackets to F-01042-L/R before clecoing the F-1040 side channels. It is easier setting these rivets now than after the side channels are installed. | |||
* Step 5: The most forward rivet on the bottom part of the lower firewall bracket is hard to reach. Some trim the top flange of the bracket to allow for using an offset rivet set, others use a large 16" Knipex pair of pliers with a makeshift die for the manufactured head. See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8092829177504777 FB thread].<br>[[File:Screenshot 2024-09-13 at 8.27.25 AM.png|300x300px]] | * Step 5: The most forward rivet on the bottom part of the lower firewall bracket is hard to reach. Some trim the top flange of the bracket to allow for using an offset rivet set, others use a large 16" Knipex pair of pliers with a makeshift die for the manufactured head. See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8092829177504777 FB thread].<br>[[File:Screenshot 2024-09-13 at 8.27.25 AM.png|300x300px]] | ||
== 29-17 == | == 29-17 == | ||
* Step 1: Before riveting the F-1013-R longeron to the F-1070-R side skin, cleco the tailcone bulkhead to the F-1070-L/R side skins and verify the F-1013-R is not interfering (i.e., too long) with the F-1006-C bulkhead placement. In my case I needed to trim about 1/16" of the end of the longeron to allow the bulkhead holes to line up with the skin holes. Much easier to do this when you can pull the longeron away from the skin to do the trimming. | |||
* Some of the holes around the door opening are left open. You will cleco the door to the frame using those in order to 1) get the correct position of the door within the insert and 2) lock in the airframe shape into the door when bonding the door shells together. These blanks allow you a place to insert the clecos to hold it. Once the doors are bonded and door install complete, you then rivet those remaining. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9301782943276055 FB thread]. | * Some of the holes around the door opening are left open. You will cleco the door to the frame using those in order to 1) get the correct position of the door within the insert and 2) lock in the airframe shape into the door when bonding the door shells together. These blanks allow you a place to insert the clecos to hold it. Once the doors are bonded and door install complete, you then rivet those remaining. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9301782943276055 FB thread]. | ||
* Assuming you are not considering installing wiring under the rear floors (you shouldn't), you might consider installing the rear floor pans now before the side skins are installed, while it is easier to get access. See page 35-2. | * Assuming you are not considering installing wiring under the rear floors (you shouldn't), you might consider installing the rear floor pans now before the side skins are installed, while it is easier to get access. See page 35-2. | ||