186
edits
m (→45-06) |
|||
| (5 intermediate revisions by 2 users not shown) | |||
| Line 7: | Line 7: | ||
Special/New Tools/Supplies | Special/New Tools/Supplies | ||
* See [[Window Care]] for tips and tricks on taking care of your Plexiglass windows | |||
* Consider an angle grinder with stone wheel if you are going to be using McMaster seals on your doors. There is a lot of fiberglass to remove. | * Consider an angle grinder with stone wheel if you are going to be using McMaster seals on your doors. There is a lot of fiberglass to remove. | ||
* Safety wire and safety wire pliers if you don't already have them. | * Safety wire and safety wire pliers if you don't already have them. | ||
* Small syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF2DVGDX like these]) to insert epoxy into any missing areas after binding the doors together | * Small syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF2DVGDX like these]) to insert epoxy into any missing areas after binding the doors together | ||
* Large syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPKPT2JB like these]) help if you are using the McMaster seals. | * Large syringes ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DPKPT2JB like these]) help if you are using the McMaster seals. | ||
* It's nice to be able to remove and re-install the protective wrap on the windows while working on them, and you probably want to end with a nice clean protective wrap as well. Consider buying a role of [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GWCJYTV Collision Wrap]; one roll will be plenty for several coatings of all of your transparencies. | |||
* If you are using a window install method that needs deeper window pockets, consider ordering four pieces of Polypropylene Rod, 1/4" Diameter, 8 Feet Long (McMaster part 8658K51) while ordering your door seal. You can temporarily fit these into the window openings as spacers to help build up epoxy around the windows to the proper depth as shown in this photo. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23928075716886869 FB thread]. | * If you are using a window install method that needs deeper window pockets, consider ordering four pieces of Polypropylene Rod, 1/4" Diameter, 8 Feet Long (McMaster part 8658K51) while ordering your door seal. You can temporarily fit these into the window openings as spacers to help build up epoxy around the windows to the proper depth as shown in this photo. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23928075716886869 FB thread]. | ||
[[File:2025-06-26 18.52.29.jpg|none|thumb|1/4" plastic spacers temporarily epoxied into window opening to make it easy to build up the epoxy around.]] | [[File:2025-06-26 18.52.29.jpg|none|thumb|1/4" plastic spacers temporarily epoxied into window opening to make it easy to build up the epoxy around.]] | ||
* Again, if you plan to deepen the window pockets, a detail belt sander can be extremely useful for finishing out the window openings. This has other future uses as well (e.g. avionics cutouts, overhead console openings, etc). | * Again, if you plan to deepen the window pockets, a detail belt sander can be extremely useful for finishing out the window openings. This has other future uses as well (e.g. avionics cutouts, overhead console openings, etc). | ||
Modifications to Consider | Modifications to Consider | ||
| Line 23: | Line 24: | ||
* Consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/rv-10-ss-angled-door-pins-and-delrin-pin-guides upgraded door pins and guides]. | * Consider using [https://planearound.com/shop/ols/products/rv-10-ss-angled-door-pins-and-delrin-pin-guides upgraded door pins and guides]. | ||
* Consider using [https://brassmonkey.tech/product-category/rv10-parts/ door mount capture plates] to make installing and removing the door much easier. On the cabin-top side, these are especially nice if you have the overhead console restricting access to the back side of the hinge plates. On the door side, these make it easier to epoxy and clean up the hinge mount point to the door. Either way, these make it quick and easy to remove the doors (which you'll do quite a few times). | * Consider using [https://brassmonkey.tech/product-category/rv10-parts/ door mount capture plates] to make installing and removing the door much easier. On the cabin-top side, these are especially nice if you have the overhead console restricting access to the back side of the hinge plates. On the door side, these make it easier to epoxy and clean up the hinge mount point to the door. Either way, these make it quick and easy to remove the doors (which you'll do quite a few times). | ||
* Four sensors to make sure the four door pins are properly latched are critical to flight safety. Here is one [https://airplane.allanglen.com/2023/11/05/door-pin-sensors/?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAYnJpZBExcWQyVmh4bnp6aWJwTmRpdAEeaL_OSWvmreEyzkA-dgA1Sob542t4S9NTZKGWetK2PuUAd9wIsMN-wWwznqg_aem_qPCxa2l8m6JcED0GZPidog alternative method] of mounting those sensors. | |||
== General == | == General == | ||
| Line 37: | Line 39: | ||
* Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration. | * Important: if you are using the Planearound 180-degree cam AND the Aerosport low-profile exterior door handles, [https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/85ec6025-f02d-4bd9-b354-d9bef14e3672/downloads/e338c50b-3a76-446a-920a-64b0f7271a21/Door%20Mechanism%20Installation%20Compilation%20Docume.pdf?ver=1738948265394 this guide] will save you many hours of frustration. | ||
* This is a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJXQlKcADOE pretty good video] showing the full door process. | * This is a [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJXQlKcADOE pretty good video] showing the full door process. | ||
* If you are using both the Aerosport Low-profile exterior door handles and the Aerosport interior door handle covers, see the necessary modifications [https://vansairforce.net/threads/aerosport-door-handle-cover-issue.180680/post-1416983 on this VAF post] -- specifically see the image on where to trim the plates. | |||
== 45-02 == | == 45-02 == | ||
| Line 68: | Line 71: | ||
=== Silpruf Method === | === Silpruf Method === | ||
* [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] | * [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KZYJAW Silpruf @ Amazon] (note that more colors may be available from other sources); you will need at least 2 standard tubes, possibly 3 total. | ||
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video] | * [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A336SG-fsiI 5-part instructional video] | ||
* See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]] | * See also [[Media:SilPruf Window instructions.pdf|Dan H's write-up of the above Silpruf Method]] | ||
| Line 112: | Line 115: | ||
== 45-16 == | == 45-16 == | ||
==== Step 1 ==== | |||
* Check the position of the strut versus the hinge. The innermost hole of the strut is about at the position where the hinge pin resides. If you mount the strut bracket too far outwards, the bracket for the strut on the door end cannot be placed above the window, it would overlap with the window. | |||
* Also be careful with the angle of the struct attach bracket, specifically how the outboard end lines up with the future position of a closed door; at least one builder had a situation where the closed door hits this strut attach bracket. | |||
* If you are getting the Aerosport overhead panel, you need to match drill the door strut attach bracket to the canopy before attaching the overhead panel. It is necessary to notch the overhead panel for the bracket. | |||
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, do not match drill with a #12 bit since the holes are already threaded for 10-32 bolts. Consider match drilling with a #22 bit, then enlarging the hole to size #12. You may have to chase the bracket threads with a 10-32 tap if the #22 drill bit damaged them. | |||
==== Step 3 ==== | |||
* If you are getting the after-market PlaneAround DOOR STRUT ATTACH BRACKETS, two of the four bushings need to be narrower, 3/8 inch instead of 9/16. | |||
== 45-17 == | == 45-17 == | ||
* Step 2: Consider using stronger, larger diameter blind rivets with a larger bulb to attach the C-1013 strut attach brackets, e.g. CR3213-5-2 (nominal sized, grip .063-.125), CR3213-5-3 (nominal sized grip.126-.187), CR3243-5-2 (1/64 over-sized, grip .063-.125) or CR3243-5-3 (1/64 over-sized grip.126-.187) depending on availability and thickness. See also this [https://youtu.be/7CmFWatKb9c?si=zZu1B9cwVwgJHOGQ&t=268 YouTube video from Base Leg Aviation]. | |||
* Pin plates are not needed if using PlaneAround pins/guides. | * Pin plates are not needed if using PlaneAround pins/guides. | ||
* If using McMaster seals you will do this completely different. You will remove the lip from the door opening on the cabin top until it is completely flat (parallel to the door). Consider using an angle grinder with stone wheel for this step. If the lip flares out (towards the door) at at any point it will need to be ground down. Consider a minimum gap of 3/8" all around when the door is closed and clamped flush. | * If using McMaster seals you will do this completely different. You will remove the lip from the door opening on the cabin top until it is completely flat (parallel to the door). Consider using an angle grinder with stone wheel for this step. If the lip flares out (towards the door) at at any point it will need to be ground down. Consider a minimum gap of 3/8" all around when the door is closed and clamped flush. | ||
edits