SECTION 12: EMPENNAGE FAIRINGS: Difference between revisions

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==== Page 12-3 ====
==== Page 12-3 ====
* It is possible to 3D-print a mold and lay up a fiberglass cap that goes onto the leading edge of E-912 instead of building it up to match the curvature of E-913. The 3D-print project is here [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/2d18e62c34f9871d62d595bd/w/62ed52794e9db993635c4b5a/e/878ad7f4480a4767bfe7c195?renderMode=0&uiState=6243a8118871e6462234511d at Onshape]. The 3D-printer file is here [[index.php?title=Media:HS Fairing Mold1.stl|HS_Fairing_Mold1.stl]].
* It is possible to 3D-print a mold and lay up a fiberglass cap that goes onto the leading edge of E-912 instead of building it up to match the curvature of E-913. The 3D-print project is here [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/2d18e62c34f9871d62d595bd/w/62ed52794e9db993635c4b5a/e/878ad7f4480a4767bfe7c195?renderMode=0&uiState=6243a8118871e6462234511d at Onshape]. The 3D-printer file is here [[Media:HS Fairing Mold1.stl|HS_Fairing_Mold1.stl]].
* It is possible to 3D-print a mold and lay up a fiberglass insert that goes into HS-910. It has the right curvature and it has the necessary kink to match the Elevator counter weight leading edge. The 3D-print project is here [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/fcd78f2ce5fcf8549652b724/w/efce270e7d34aa85633c27ce/e/b25eb27fde3cd5777347d51f?renderMode=0&uiState=6243a8b37aa9182ef0561832 at Onshape]. The 3D-printer file is here [[index.php?title=Media:HS Fairing Mold2.stl|HS_Fairing_Mold2.stl]]
* It is possible to 3D-print a mold and lay up a fiberglass insert that goes into HS-910. It has the right curvature and it has the necessary kink to match the Elevator counter weight leading edge. The 3D-print project is here [https://cad.onshape.com/documents/fcd78f2ce5fcf8549652b724/w/efce270e7d34aa85633c27ce/e/b25eb27fde3cd5777347d51f?renderMode=0&uiState=6243a8b37aa9182ef0561832 at Onshape]. The 3D-printer file is here [[Media:HS Fairing Mold2.stl|HS_Fairing_Mold2.stl]]
==== Page 12-6 ====
==== Page 12-6 ====
* Step 6: There is no machine countersink bit with a pilot that would fit exactly into the threaded part of a #6 screw (#36 hole), only for the #28 hole that the screw goes through. Use the countersink bit for 3/32 rivets (#40).
* Step 6: There is no machine countersink bit with a pilot that would fit exactly into the threaded part of a #6 screw (#36 hole), only for the #28 hole that the screw goes through. Use the countersink bit for 3/32 rivets (#40).


[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]
[[Category:Hints]]

Revision as of 14:15, 19 April 2025

Build Instruction Updates

  • N/A

Check for more recent updates here

Before You Start

Special/New Tools/Supplies

  • If this is your first time doing fiberglass work, start here

Modifications to Consider

  • It may be easier to purchase your tail light before attaching the rudder bottom fairing.

Notes

Page 12-2

  • Step 1: Good results were achieved by clamping an aluminum strip along the recess edge and then using a Dremel with router attachment to square the edge. Even though the Dremel has the potential to eat into the aluminum strip, one can guide the Dremel in a fashion where it barely touches the strip.
  • Step 4: I was unable to dimple the most rearward of the skin holes for a #30 hole and I had to purchase this tool: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/12-00612.php

Page 12-3

  • It is possible to 3D-print a mold and lay up a fiberglass cap that goes onto the leading edge of E-912 instead of building it up to match the curvature of E-913. The 3D-print project is here at Onshape. The 3D-printer file is here HS_Fairing_Mold1.stl.
  • It is possible to 3D-print a mold and lay up a fiberglass insert that goes into HS-910. It has the right curvature and it has the necessary kink to match the Elevator counter weight leading edge. The 3D-print project is here at Onshape. The 3D-printer file is here HS_Fairing_Mold2.stl

Page 12-6

  • Step 6: There is no machine countersink bit with a pilot that would fit exactly into the threaded part of a #6 screw (#36 hole), only for the #28 hole that the screw goes through. Use the countersink bit for 3/32 rivets (#40).