SECTION 16: TOP WING SKINS

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Revision as of 00:48, 6 January 2026 by Kirkbauer (talk | contribs) (Just a few notes from my completion of this section.)
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  • The plans recommend using a double-offset back rivet set for most of the rivets in this section.

Page 16-2

  • Step 2: You also need to match-drill the #40 holes for the nutplates on the inboard edge. If your kit is newer you shouldn't need to match-drill any of the #40 holes except possibly the holes in common with the wing walk doublers. Note that W-1027B has two sets of two holes that are not in line with the other rivet holes but only one of these pairs is used.
  • Step 5: This step can be confusing. The RV-14 plans have a better diagram of what you're trying to do. After reading a few blogs I found that you're trying to scarf the two top wing skins at the forward corner only to achieve a better fit. I marked the top of the inboard skin and bottom of the outboard skin where I needed to remove material then used a file and sanding block to remove the material. I also had to make a few passes with the Cleaveland edge-breaking tool to achieve an acceptable joint.

  • Step 6: consider using an edge-forming tool on the inboard edge of the outboard skin so that it sits more flush against the inboard skin. Remember to deburr the match-drilled #40 holes in the inboard most rib. Don't dimple any holes on the skin that are not marked for riveting on page 16-3.
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