SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS

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29-2

Note that when bending the longerons, the template has parts that are almost completely straight. It is easiest to identify that and avoid curving that part (don't be like me and just start curving everything to start).

Note that the "Aft Twist Mark" is not applicable for F-1013-L because it is the shorter longeron.

29-3

The instructions don't specify, but you do the FWD TWIST on both longerons since the parts are symmetrical (other than the fact that one is shorter to accommodate the cargo door).

29-6

I found Step 2 and especially Step 4 to be fiddly. Note that the thickness of the AA6-063 is 1/16" thick so I used as scrap piece of this to make sure the 1/16" offset was implemented correctly.

29-7

  • Step 3: The number of holes in the top flanges of the F-1015C Mid Cabin Decks is one greater than the number of holes drilled into the F-1013 longerons using the template. I haven't finished the chapter yet so I'm not sure what will happen, but for now I'm not match-drilling that extra hole. I'll try to remember to update this when I'm done with this chapter.

29-9

  • Step 3: I managed to violate the edge distance when match-drilling into the longeron. In my case, I don't think the curve in the longeron was quite right the first time. It's tough because you are match-drilling from underneath, but make sure that you are not drilling too close to the edge of the longeron. You can draw a line with your Sharpee at 3/16" from the outside edge of the lower flange and the color it in -- then use an inspection mirror when clamping onto the bracket below. If you can see any Sharpee through the holes then you are too close to the edge to match drill that hole.

29-11

  • See this FB Post on how to keep the skin and clamping block in place while bending.
  • See this FB Post on how to use two angle pieces to clamp the skin.

29-13

Consider Markus's write-up to ensure the edge distance is met: 

Step 1:
Match-Drill #40 the holes in the F-01069-L-1 & -R-1 Fwd Side Skins and the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels common to the WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Uncleco the Fwd Side Skins from the under structure. This is not according to plans but makes it simpler to check the edge distance.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Upper Firewall Bracket with a Sharpie.



Mark the centre of the middle flange of the Upper Firewall Bracket and the Upper Fuse Channel.



Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Upper Firewall Bracket tight against the Upper Fuse Channel.



Make sure the centre lines still align. Also make sure that the edge distance lines cannot be seen through the holes of the Upper Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #40 the holes and cleco as you go.



Match-Drill #40 the holes in the fwd side skins and the F-1041-L and -R Lower Fuse Channels common to the WD-1003-L and -R Lower Firewall Brackets. 
Use the same technique as described above.

29-14

  • Step 5
    When match drilling from the F-1001B angle into the WD-1002-L / WD-1002-R firewall steel brackets, be aware that it's easy to violate the edge distance in the steel bracket (2 x D, measured from the center of hole). Remedy is to temporarily install a bolt into the engine mount hole to pull the bracket into place and to use a clamp to move the steel bracket to increase edge distance.
    See this build log


See also FB post 4/17/2022
See also FB post 3/27/2023

Also consider Markus's write-up for this page: 

Step 4:
Match-Drill #30 the holes in the lower flange of the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels into the WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Upper Firewall Bracket with a Sharpie.



Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Upper Firewall bracket tight against the Upper Fuse Channel. Use a small metal plate between the clamp and the upper and lower flange of the Upper Firewall Bracket to push the flanges in.



Make sure that you cannot see the edge distance lines through the holes of the lower flange of the Upper Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #30 the holes. Cleco as you go.

Step 5:
Match-Drill #30 the holes in the F-1001B Firewall Upper Angle into the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels and WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Use the same technique as described above.
Match-Drill #30 the remaining holes aft of the firewall brackets common to the firewall upper angle and the upper fuse channels. Remove the cleco from the aft most hole common to these two parts and final-drill the hole #30 on both sides of the aircraft.

Step 6:
Match-drill #30 the holes along the upper and lower flanges of the F-1041-L and -R Lwr Fuse Channels into the WD-1003-L-PC and -R-PC Lower Firewall Brackets.
Make a mark on the Lwr Fuse Channel and Lower Firewall Bracket as long as the Fwd Side Skin is still clecoed to the structure to make sure those parts align properly once the Fwd Side Skin is removed.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Lower Firewall Bracket with a sharpie.
Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Lower Firewall Bracket tight against the  Lwr Fuse Channel. Use a small metal plate between the clamp and the upper and lower flange of the Lower Firewall Bracket to push the flanges in.



Make sure that you cannot see the edge distance lines through the holes of the upper or lower flange of the Lwr Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #30 the holes. Cleco as you go.

29-15

29-16

  • Step 5: The most forward rivet on the bottom part of the lower firewall bracket is hard to reach. Some trim the top flange of the bracket to allow for using an offset rivet set, others use a large 16" Knipex pair of pliers with a makeshift die for the manufactured head. See this FB thread.

29-19

  • If you are using the Aerosport interior side panels, don't install the VENT-0004 knob. The Aerosport side vents need a different extension lever which can only be attached once the panel is in place.
  • The kit may not include the nylon washers 5610-90-31. They can be obtained at your local hardware store as #10 Nylon washer.

29-20

  • Don't rivet the forward cabin floor to the center tunnel walls if you are getting electronic injection (SDS or EFII), or you intend to install access covers to the side of the tunnel as the rivet holes will be needed. For the SDS pump shelf, you will have 5 stock rivets counting from front, then the next 11 are to be left out for the fuel pump shelf. For the access covers, see the instructions from Airward.

29-21

  • Some time around the start of 2021, Vans updated the design of the landing gear mount to address some concerns with cracking. For those of us that received our fuselage kits after this (like me), we received the SB-00007 kit with the fuselage kit. There's no explanation on how to apply this SB to a kit in construction. I researched it and this is my take on this.
  • SB-00007 has been partly applied to new parts in the kit. In particular, the landing gear mount and the forward spar designs have been updated, but the side skins have not. The SB calls for enlarging some holes in the forward spar, however, those holes are already the correct size in newer kits (several 1/4in holes, and one 5/8in on each side). The SB includes two templates (VA-274 & VA-275) and two drill guides. As far as I can tell, these are not needed at all. The part of the SB that involves drilling into the side skins (F-1069 & F-01004T) using the drill templates VA-277 & VA-278 is necessary.
  • All of this is covered correctly in the plans. The instructions that come with SB-00007 do not need to be followed at all.
  • If you have any doubts, please call Vans tech support.
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