SkyDesigns Installation Hints

Construction Notes (Based on SkyDesign drawings and BOM's at the time of purchase around 10/01/2022)

This applies to the RV-10 Retro Fit Version, although parts of it will most likely apply to both versions.

• Missing Parts that are not specified in the BOM, but that you will need.
  • Rivets. The number of AD41-H and AD42-H called out in the BOM are for one tank only. You need double that.
  • T-1011 says 1 pack of seven. Note that the VAN's skew is for 1 each only, you need a total of 7. Make sure you get the right number.
  • CAV-110 Fuel Tank Quick Drain (Need 2)
  • VA-261 Fuel Strainer (Need 2)
  • AN913-3D Fluid Fitting Plug (Need 2)
    • This is optional, but the BOM calls for 4 VA-141, so if you make that second hole for fuel return to install the electronic fuel injection down the road, you probably need this to plug the hole for now.
    • If you are NOT wanting to install a hole for the fuel return you only need 2 x VA-141. Save a little money.
  • Fuel Sender
    • This is optional, but if you want two fuel senders per tank, you need to add 2 more senders to you Van's order. See notes on fuel sender and fill tab.
• Build Notes
  • Double check the pricelist and make sure the $1,400 or so for the extra needed parts from Van's is included. SkyDesigns provides the BOM, it was just not clear to me initially that the total cost all up is closer to $3,000. Not that they try to hide it. It is just easily overlooked.
  • The product is not packaged / crated as well as Van's products. Make sure to check for damage when you receive it. My baffles have a slight kink.
  • Holes are not final sized, so yeah, starting to really appreciate the final sized holes in the Van's parts. A lot of drilling and deburring.
  • It is bigger tanks and it may be worth considering 2 fuel senders per tank. Drawings are included to do so but it is optional. According to SkyDesigns the inboard Fuel Sender will start leave the top skin at around 30.6 Gallons. So you will burn 10.7 Gallons out of the tank before it shows. The design also includes a fill tab mounted to the baffle. Filling to the tab will get you 25 Gallons (Per tank). I think that is a nice little feature considering you may need to cut back on your fuel load if you want to carry 4 people.
  • I found the directions leaning close to the RV-14 tank build directions from Vans, but I found the original RV-10 directions worked better for me. Maybe because I already build the standard tanks. So I followed those and just kept the SkyDesigns directions on the side to make sure I didn't miss anything. For example they say to put the tank sealant on the J-Stiffener and then install it. I tried that and ended up with all the sealant sliding off the J-Stiffener. I prefer putting the sealant on the skin and then install the stiffener. At least that works better for me. Either way it is a bit tricky to get it done right.
  • The skins are not bend to final shape like the standard skins from Vans. They essentially come with a 90 degree bend, and you have to "wrap" it around the ribs yourself. Next to getting the splice rib back in, this is probably the biggest surprise to deal with. Not terribly difficult to work with, but definitely a little extra work to get the first couple of ribs in. For final assembly and riveting, starting from the inboard end, I Cleko in the T-100C-x (nose rib) in as Rib no 1 using NO sealant, then I also Cleko in ribs 4 and 5 without sealant. This will shape the tank skin pretty well to what you need and leave elbow room to seal and rivet in rib 2. Then I removed rib 4, then seal and rivet rib 3. After that I removed rib 5 and the skin is pretty much held in the correct shape and you can proceed per Van's directions without having to wrestle the skins too much. The cradle for the standard tanks work fine for the ER tanks.
  • The provided templates work well and are really accurate. Make sure to follow the directions on drilling out rivets, even though it seems odd some are left in place. Once you get to the point of drilling new holes in the spar, it all makes sense.
  • Note that you will reuse the W-1008-R/L Splice Rib and the W-1019-R/L Splice Strip. So be very careful drilling out those rivets.
  • Obviously be careful and patient cutting the outboard leading edge. Mine came out really nice just following the directions. It's a little tricky to cut the part close to the spar. You do NOT want to accidently damage the spar. I had a 1/4 inch thick steel bar that I jammed in between the spar and the skin to protect the spar when cutting (After taping up the spar etc.). That worked really well. I also invested in a good set of tin snips and also watched a YouTube video or two on how to use them correctly.
  • The trickiest part I thought was to get the Splice Rib and Splice Strip back in place. It just seemed like it would be impossible to squeeze that back in place. I then re-read the instructions again a few times and then it snapped in place. Again be careful on the instructions here. There is a rivet you need to take care of before you snap the splice rib in place. Afterwards you will not be able to get to that top rivet.
  • If you have the Stall Warning installed you have to decide if you want to keep it or not. I kept mine. It is mounted to the splice rib anyway, so I just moved it out with it. Just had to cut the hole in the leading edge for the tap to stick through, I just measured that out for the existing piece that already had the hole. The most work was really to cut another hole for the access panel you need for the Stall Warning, but I reused the old dobler and plate. It seems a lot of people drop the Stall Warning all together in general, and just rely on the AOA GAP 26. Just personal preference it seems.
  • Finally there was a little bit of fine trimming / filing when attaching the tanks. The back edge of the tank skin would interfere with the top skin that was already attached to the wing. Not a big problem, just know you need to keep and eye out and maybe use the file a bit to get it to fit.