SECTION 21: AILERON

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The counter balance pipe ends 2/3 down in the aileron, so critters can get inside the aileron through the counter balance pipe. Consider closing up the pipe with a plug or aluminum tape before storage.

Page 21-02

Step 2: it says to dimple all #40 holes in the flanges, but the #40 pilot holes that hold the screws for the counterbalance tube are not to be dimpled, they will be enlarged to #27 and the AN526C632R8 screws that go into them have round heads.

Page 21-03

Consider deferring the riveting of A-1007-1B and A-1006-1B plates to the A-1005A-1 ribs until after the top skin is attached to the spar on page 21-08. This will allow for better access to the spar attach rivets that end up being inside the hinge brackets. Just be sure to attach them before the bottom skin gets attached. If you attach the parts per manual, you most likely have to grind off one side of a straight 470 -4 rivet set as the stem is too thick to allow centering the rivet set.

Page 21-04

Step 4: Consider buying a Cobalt drill bit for drilling into the stainless steel counter-balance tube.

Page 21-05

Step 3: The aileron counterbalance pipe is made from stainless steel and is much harder than aluminum. When match drilling the aileron counterbalance attach holes through the nose skin it is easy for the bit to wander and significantly enlarge the pre-punched holes in the nose skin. Drill slowly, checking often that you're centered especially when starting to drill the holes. Another option would be to just mark the holes in the counterbalance and remove the skin before drilling the holes (as described for step 2).

Step 5: Mark the top, sloped trim lines before cutting the stiffeners apart else you cut the reference points away.