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SECTION 35: ACCESS COVERS AND FLOOR PANELS: Difference between revisions
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* Step 1 - getting the F-1016C-L and F-1016C-R trays in and out can be tough. You may need to do some extra deburring on the front seat support slots on the forward (bent) edge. You can use plastic wedges to help get the aft end of the trays over the rivets on F-1005A. To remove the trays, you can install clecos in the nutplate holes on the aft end to pull up, again using plastic wedges to get past the rivets. | * Step 1 - getting the F-1016C-L and F-1016C-R trays in and out can be tough. You may need to do some extra deburring on the front seat support slots on the forward (bent) edge. You can use plastic wedges to help get the aft end of the trays over the rivets on F-1005A. To remove the trays, you can install clecos in the nutplate holes on the aft end to pull up, again using plastic wedges to get past the rivets. | ||
* Step 5 - Figure 2 shows AD470AD4-4 rivets along the outboard and inboard foot well ribs. There are though two rivets an each side of the floor boards that go through the seat belt attach lugs and they need to be longer. The entire row of rivets along the outboard foot well rib is really hard to buck, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5293473657440357/ FB thread] or this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6858375584283482 FB thread] for hints. See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6846214252166282 this FB thread] | * Step 5 - Figure 2 shows AD470AD4-4 rivets along the outboard and inboard foot well ribs. There are though two rivets an each side of the floor boards that go through the seat belt attach lugs and they need to be longer. The entire row of rivets along the outboard foot well rib is really hard to buck, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5293473657440357/ FB thread] or this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6858375584283482 FB thread] for hints. See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6846214252166282 this FB thread] | ||
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Another alternative to be considered. | |||
This are a few ideas I figured out by chance. | |||
* A friend recommended that all rivets installed in the rear foot well have their machine heads towards the foot well. I'm sure this made things easier when I got to this step. (See section 26.) | |||
* First, final drill all of the screw holes in the floor pan to #19 and their associated nutplate rivet holes to #40, as described in step 2. | |||
* Then install all of the nutplates per step 4. | |||
* Complete the extra deburring on the support slots as recommended above. | |||
* Install the floor pan. Start by wedging it between the two F-814HPP seat belt brackets, then push it forward and down so that the front is in the correct position. The rear of the floor should now clear the rear spar. Keep pushing it into position until the floor is against the floor ribs. This will all feel ugly. | |||
* Now complete the remaining items in step 1 & 2. | |||
* To remove the floor, put a screw in one of the holes, just 1 or 2 turns so it just engages. Use a pair of pliers on the screw to give you leverage to pull the floor up. Use a flat head screw driver to pry the rear flange of the floor over the rivets. Once the rear of the floor is clear of the rear spar, yank the floor the rest of the way out. | |||
* Check that the side flanges are not too badly damaged. Repair as necessary. | |||
* Finally, complete the remaining items in step 3, then complete the installation with step 5. | |||
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