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SECTION 39: CONTROL SYSTEM: Difference between revisions
Added Before You Start section
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* 11/05/22 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/39_10.pdf 39_10.pdf] | * 11/05/22 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/39_10.pdf 39_10.pdf] | ||
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here] | Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here] | ||
=== Before You Start === | |||
Special/New Tools/Supplies | |||
* [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/washerwrenchset12-04723.php Washer Wrenches] are very helpful in getting some of these tricky washers into place. | |||
Modifications to Consider | |||
* You may need to make modifications to the control stick to stay clear of interference, especially if you have an Aerosport instrument panel. | |||
* You may want to decide which [[Stick Grips]] you'd like to use. | |||
=== Tips === | |||
==== Modifications to avoid the grip hitting the panel ==== | ==== Modifications to avoid the grip hitting the panel ==== | ||
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* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/2581728191948264 FB thread 12/2019] | * [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/2581728191948264 FB thread 12/2019] | ||
==== | === Notes === | ||
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* Step 2: You need two holes that are opposed to each other and aligned so you can get a straight safety wire through later. | * Step 2: You need two holes that are opposed to each other and aligned so you can get a straight safety wire through later. This only needs to be done on one VA-111 (the one that will be installed on the forward end of the pushrod). | ||
* Step 4: One way to prime the inside of the tubes is to hang them off the ceiling dangling 2 inches above the ground. Then inserting a bow tie of paper towel that acts as a plug with a wire that allows you to pull it out the bottom. Pull it down so you can pour an inch of primer into the tube without spilling out the holes. Then slowly pull down the plug. Catch the paint running out the bottom once the plug is coming out. | * Step 4: One way to prime the inside of the tubes is to hang them off the ceiling dangling 2 inches above the ground. Then inserting a bow tie of paper towel that acts as a plug with a wire that allows you to pull it out the bottom. Pull it down so you can pour an inch of primer into the tube without spilling out the holes. Then slowly pull down the plug. Catch the paint running out the bottom once the plug is coming out. | ||
* Step 5: The long rod end bearing is nominally 2.312" from bolt end to hole and the short one is 1.375. The rod ends are sticking out 0.75", therefore the threads should engage 0.390" into the rod end fitting on both ends to yield a hole to hole length of 37 13/32. Taping the jam nuts into the 0.39 position will make it easy to do the initial thread insertion. 52% of the short and 26% of the long rod end bearing thread is engaged with the rod end fitting.<br>Math: (33 + 1.5 + 2.312 + 1.375 - 37.40625)/2=0.39 | * Step 5: The long rod end bearing is nominally 2.312" from bolt end to hole and the short one is 1.375. The rod ends are sticking out 0.75", therefore the threads should engage 0.390" into the rod end fitting on both ends to yield a hole to hole length of 37 13/32. Taping the jam nuts into the 0.39 position will make it easy to do the initial thread insertion. 52% of the short and 26% of the long rod end bearing thread is engaged with the rod end fitting.<br>Math: (33 + 1.5 + 2.312 + 1.375 - 37.40625)/2=0.39 | ||
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* Step 1: Similar to F-1089, the F-1064 thread engagement can be calculated to 0.687". | * Step 1: Similar to F-1089, the F-1064 thread engagement can be calculated to 0.687". | ||
* Step 2: Similar to F-1089, the F-1065 thread engagement can be calculated to 0.5". | * Step 2: Similar to F-1089, the F-1065 thread engagement can be calculated to 0.5". | ||
* Step 3: You thread in the front tube first (with the long rod end bearing first), then the rear tube. | * Step 3: You thread in the front tube first (with the long rod end bearing first), then the rear tube. It's easier to complete the next step (Step 4) before fully re-attaching the battery/bellcrank mount. | ||
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* Step 3: Attach the forward pushrod (F-1089) first since it is the hardest to access and requires two inside washers. Then you can attach to F-1090 and the F-1063B brackets in any order. | |||
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* Step 4: Don't force washers in and | * Step 4: Don't force washers in and make sure the control column doesn't have play before tightening the bolt. Consider adding [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/continentalnewwashers_07-06527.php 1/64th thick washers]. Make sure that after tightening the second side down, no binding can be felt from the bearings that might have taken on side load. You may need to deviate from the instructions in terms of the sizes and numbers of washers on either side of the bearing -- just make things as centered as possible with zero lateral looseness but not too tight, either. | ||
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