SECTION 39: CONTROL SYSTEM: Difference between revisions
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* Step 4: The number of thick and thin washers is not to be taken literally. You need to play with combinations until you reduce the play to a minimum on both pilot and copilot sides before torquing the bolts. Consider adding [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/continentalnewwashers_07-06527.php 1/64th thick washers].<br>The mechanical design is not ideal since the bearings are not designed to take a lot of side load without binding. One possible solution is to hold the bearing tight on one side (you can help a washer to go in by using a screwdriver to move the thin lug out a bit) and grab the bearing on the other side loosely (with some minimal play between the washers on both sides of the bearing). Consider using a [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an3.php drilled bolt] and a [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an310_320.php castellated nut] / [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/MS24665-153.php cotter pin] on the loose side. | * Step 4: The number of thick and thin washers is not to be taken literally. You need to play with combinations until you reduce the play to a minimum on both pilot and copilot sides before torquing the bolts. Consider adding [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/continentalnewwashers_07-06527.php 1/64th thick washers].<br>The mechanical design is not ideal since the bearings are not designed to take a lot of side load without binding. One possible solution is to hold the bearing tight on one side (you can help a washer to go in by using a screwdriver to move the thin lug out a tiny bit) and grab the bearing on the other side loosely (with some minimal play between the washers on both sides of the bearing). Consider using a [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an3.php drilled bolt] and a [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an310_320.php castellated nut] / [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/MS24665-153.php cotter pin] on the loose side. | ||
[[Category:Hints]] | [[Category:Hints]] | ||
Revision as of 20:07, 17 February 2024
Build Instruction Updates
- 11/05/22 39_10.pdf
Check for more recent updates here
Modifications to avoid the grip hitting the panel
Stick Grips
- See Stick Grips
Page 39-2
- Step 3: If you have issues printing the document to scale, try printing this file instead:Pushrodholes.pdf
- Note: HP laser printer drivers on Mac laptops may not print at the needed 1:1 scale, no matter what software you use or what you do in the print settings. Exact same file, printer and Adobe Reader are able to print at 1:1 scale on a Windows laptop. There might be an issue on Macs.
- Hint for Onshape users: You can import a pdf page via Inkscape. Import the pdf page in Inkscape and save it out as dxf v14 file. Import that dxf file into Onshape. Start a new sketch. Add the dxf drawing to the sketch. Take a known distance between two points and call out a dimension between them. It will show the distance as it imported the drawing. You can now override that distance to the known distance and the whole dxf is now at scale. You can now overlay your own drawing while the endpoints will snap to the dxf points. Next, create a drawing within Onshape and add the sketch. You can then export that drawing back to a pdf and the scale is correct.
Page 39-3
- Step 2: You need two holes that are opposed to each other and aligned so you can get a straight safety wire through later.
- Step 4: One way to prime the inside of the tubes is to hang them off the ceiling dangling 2 inches above the ground. Then inserting a bow tie of paper towel that acts as a plug with a wire that allows you to pull it out the bottom. Pull it down so you can pour an inch of primer into the tube without spilling out the holes. Then slowly pull down the plug. Catch the paint running out the bottom once the plug is coming out.
- Step 5: The long rod end bearing is nominally 2.312" from bolt end to hole and the short one is 1.375. The rod ends are sticking out 0.75", therefore the threads should engage 0.390" into the rod end fitting on both ends to yield a hole to hole length of 37 13/32. Taping the jam nuts into the 0.39 position will make it easy to do the initial thread insertion. 52% of the short and 26% of the long rod end bearing thread is engaged with the rod end fitting.
Math: (33 + 1.5 + 2.312 + 1.375 - 37.40625)/2=0.39
Page 39-4
- Step 5: Similar to F-1089, the F-1090 thread engagement can be calculated to 0.718".
Page 39-5
- Step 1: Similar to F-1089, the F-1064 thread engagement can be calculated to 0.687".
- Step 2: Similar to F-1089, the F-1065 thread engagement can be calculated to 0.5".
- Step 3: You thread in the front tube first (with the long rod end bearing first), then the rear tube.
Page 39-7
- Step 4: The number of thick and thin washers is not to be taken literally. You need to play with combinations until you reduce the play to a minimum on both pilot and copilot sides before torquing the bolts. Consider adding 1/64th thick washers.
The mechanical design is not ideal since the bearings are not designed to take a lot of side load without binding. One possible solution is to hold the bearing tight on one side (you can help a washer to go in by using a screwdriver to move the thin lug out a tiny bit) and grab the bearing on the other side loosely (with some minimal play between the washers on both sides of the bearing). Consider using a drilled bolt and a castellated nut / cotter pin on the loose side.