SECTION 7: RUDDER: Difference between revisions

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==== Page 7-6 Step 11 ====
==== Page 7-6 Step 11 ====
"The holes" refers to the holes in the skin that are common to the rudder skeleton as defined in step 6. The bottom row of holes where the fairing attaches is not touched in this section, rather in section 12, page 12-3, steps 2 and 3.
"The holes" refers to the holes in the skin that are common to the rudder skeleton as defined in step 6. The bottom row of holes where the fairing attaches is not touched in this section, rather in section 12, page 12-3, steps 2 and 3.
==== Page 7-9 ====
* Consider using a metal angle / square steel tube with matched holes to get a straight rudder trailing edge during assembly.
* Consider using MDF boards instead, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5802010309920020 FB thread].


==== Page 7-11 Step 2 ====
==== Page 7-11 Step 2 ====

Revision as of 19:32, 13 February 2023

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Page 7-6 Step 11

"The holes" refers to the holes in the skin that are common to the rudder skeleton as defined in step 6. The bottom row of holes where the fairing attaches is not touched in this section, rather in section 12, page 12-3, steps 2 and 3.

Page 7-9

  • Consider using a metal angle / square steel tube with matched holes to get a straight rudder trailing edge during assembly.
  • Consider using MDF boards instead, see this FB thread.

Page 7-11 Step 2

There are many ways to roll the leading edge. One possible solution is to get a white powder coated steel closet rod at home depot, then go to the tools section and find a socket that fits snuggly into it. Drill two or three 1/8th holes through the rod and socket (with a tungsten carbide drill bit) and pop rivet the rod to the socket. Using a socket wrench with a universal joint, you can easily exert plenty of rolling force into the rod. Tape the skin to the rod using heavy duty duct tape.