Airflow Systems: Difference between revisions

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*You need a nutsert tool to place the nuts into the bottom skin, e.g. [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09LV22WL7 this tool (similar to a manual pop rivet puller)] or [https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=9698 this tool (twist type)] with this adapter [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/04-01427.php 8-32].<br>If you have a hydraulic knockout punch tool [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RT8RKQL e.g. this one from Amazon], you can make an adapter for pulling rivnuts by taking a 2 inch piece of a 3/4 steel rod, cutting a 3/4-16 male thread onto one end and an 8-32 female thread onto the other. Use several strong fender washers and two small washers to support the nutsert towards the punch tool or make a washer from 0.3 inch steel. Use a stainless steel 8-32 set screw as bolt. It takes some 6 full pump strokes to set the supplied nuts. Additional rivet nuts can be ordered from [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/NAS1329A08K75-25.php Aircraft Spruce].<br>[[File:2022-09-04 16-18-41.jpg|500x500px]]<br>[[File:2022-09-04 16-16-03.jpg|400x400px]]<br>[[File:2022-09-04 18-07-51.jpg|400x400px]]<br>[[File:2022-09-04 18-09-23.jpg|400x400px]]
*You need a nutsert tool to place the nuts into the bottom skin, e.g. [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09LV22WL7 this tool (similar to a manual pop rivet puller)] or [https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=9698 this tool (twist type)] with this adapter [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/04-01427.php 8-32].<br>If you have a hydraulic knockout punch tool [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RT8RKQL e.g. this one from Amazon], you can make an adapter for pulling rivnuts by taking a 2 inch piece of a 3/4 steel rod, cutting a 3/4-16 male thread onto one end and an 8-32 female thread onto the other. Use several strong fender washers and two small washers to support the nutsert towards the punch tool or make a washer from 0.3 inch steel. Use a stainless steel 8-32 set screw as bolt. It takes some 6 full pump strokes to set the supplied nuts. Additional rivet nuts can be ordered from [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/NAS1329A08K75-25.php Aircraft Spruce].<br>[[File:2022-09-04 16-18-41.jpg|500x500px]]<br>[[File:2022-09-04 16-16-03.jpg|400x400px]]<br>[[File:2022-09-04 18-07-51.jpg|400x400px]]<br>[[File:2022-09-04 18-09-23.jpg|400x400px]]
* The holes in the scoop need to be countersunk for Tinnerman washers. A great tool is [https://www.permagrit.com/large-countersink-100-degree-no-nipple/ Countersink 100º, No Nipple, 11.5mm dia., LC5 from Permagrit] (they ship directly from England).
* The holes in the scoop need to be countersunk for Tinnerman washers. A great tool is [https://www.permagrit.com/large-countersink-100-degree-no-nipple/ Countersink 100º, No Nipple, 11.5mm dia., LC5 from Permagrit] (they ship directly from England).
*If you want to route the hoses along the right side of the fuse, the thicker fitting needs to be on the copilot side (the Layout diagram shows it the opposite way).
*The manual has one drawing which shows the doublers are to be used for the condenser holes. The kit includes one set of doublers. Consider cloning the doublers and using them on the firewall and the condenser holes. The holes in the doublers are a bit too small for the 90 degree fittings when used for the condenser, so widen them accordingly. The doublers can be riveted to the inside of the bottom skin using 4 AN470 4-4 rivets:<br>[[File:2022-10-29 18-38-22.jpg|400x400px]]
*The manual says nothing about doublers for the condenser holes. The kit includes one set of doublers. Consider cloning the doublers and using them on the firewall and the condenser holes. The holes in the doublers are a bit too small for the 90 degree fittings when used for the condenser, so widen them accordingly. The doublers can be riveted to the inside of the bottom skin using 4 AN470 4-4 rivets:<br>[[File:2022-10-29 18-38-22.jpg|400x400px]]
* In order to mark the two holes for the condenser fittings one needs to make a template. A good way is to first make very large holes roughly where they need to be, then pass the fittings through those holes (make sure they are perpendicular to the condenser), then take additional snippets that have half-hole cutouts at their edges and tape them to the template so the half-holes touch the fitting.
* In order to mark the two holes for the condenser fittings one needs to make a template. A good way is to first make very large holes roughly where they need to be, then pass the fittings through those holes (make sure they are perpendicular to the condenser), then take additional snippets that have half-hole cutouts at their edges and tape them to the template so the half-holes touch the fitting.
*The manual doesn't state where left and right is on the master hose plan. Since the VS/rudder isn't drawn, one might think that the plan is as seen from the bottom, however, the plan is drawn looking down on the plane.
*The manual doesn't state where left and right is on the master hose plan. Make your own drawing based on where you route the hoses. Keep in mind that the smaller port of the condenser is the output back to the dryer. The larger one is the input from the compressor.
* Check the 90-degree fittings before attaching to the condenser as there might be white powder / residue inside from the soldering process. Can be removed with a round brush and blown out with clean compressed air.
* Check the 90-degree fittings before attaching to the condenser as there might be white powder / residue inside from the soldering process. Can be removed with a round brush and blown out with clean compressed air.


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*The manual doesn't recommend what to use for sealing against air leaks. PERMATEX # 2 SEALANT seems to do a great job.
*The manual doesn't recommend what to use for sealing against air leaks. PERMATEX # 2 SEALANT seems to do a great job.
===== Hose Routing =====
===== Hose Routing =====
*Three hose diameters are in play which reflect the state of the coolant:
**#10, the thickest, for when the coolant is all gas at low pressure as it comes out of the evaporator back to the compressor up front
**#8, mid sized, for when the coolant is compressed out of the compressor out to the condenser/scoop
**#6, the smallest, for when the coolant is mostly liquid out of the condenser/scoop to the evaporator via the dryer
*If you want to route the hoses along the right side of the fuse, the thicker fitting needs to be on the copilot side (the Layout diagram shows it the opposite way).
* There are two options for routing the hoses: through the tunnel or within the side walls. The kit contains only the fittings for the tunnel option (which needs "Z" adapters for the condenser; for routing in the side walls, you need plain 90 degree adapters on the condenser). Specify which routing you want when ordering. Airflow will exchange the Z fittings for 90 degree ones on request however they are made to order and it takes several weeks.
* There are two options for routing the hoses: through the tunnel or within the side walls. The kit contains only the fittings for the tunnel option (which needs "Z" adapters for the condenser; for routing in the side walls, you need plain 90 degree adapters on the condenser). Specify which routing you want when ordering. Airflow will exchange the Z fittings for 90 degree ones on request however they are made to order and it takes several weeks.
*When running the hoses outside the tunnel, they recommend running them to the right side of the firewall as the left side is busy with the oil cooler.
*When running the hoses outside the tunnel, they recommend running them to the right side of the firewall as the left side is busy with the oil cooler.
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