Airflow Systems: Difference between revisions

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Airflow Systems (view source)

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*The cables are brought out on the bottom. There is no grommet and the cables chafe inside the evaporator housing at the fan controller. Consider making a new hole at the top, install a grommet and bring the cables out there. Close the hole on the bottom with a piece of aluminum and 4 pop rivets.
*The cables are brought out on the bottom. There is no grommet and the cables chafe inside the evaporator housing at the fan controller. Consider making a new hole at the top, install a grommet and bring the cables out there. Close the hole on the bottom with a piece of aluminum and 4 pop rivets.
*The manual doesn't recommend what to use for sealing against air leaks. PERMATEX # 2 SEALANT seems to do a great job.
*The manual doesn't recommend what to use for sealing against air leaks. PERMATEX # 2 SEALANT seems to do a great job.
*There are a lot of loose ends when mounting the evaporator. The issue is that the tailcone bulkhead does not have predrilled holes for the closeout panel as it comes from Vans. So the holes in the upper closeout that Airflow sends don't match up with any existing holes. Later in the build, after the floors are riveted in, you will first install the lower closeout, the attach the upper closeout, then match drill the holes from the upper closeout into the tailcone bulkhead. At that point you would also have riveted the top skin that gives the bulkhead stability. Here is one way of getting it mounted (caution: work in progress, not yet verified how the bottom closeout will fit!):<br>[[File:2022-09-17 19-11-03.jpg|600x600px]]
*There are a lot of loose ends when mounting the evaporator. The issue is that at the point where you would install the AC (before closing out the floor panels), the tailcone bulkhead does not have predrilled holes yet for the closeout panel as it comes from Vans. So the holes in the upper closeout that Airflow sends don't match up with any existing holes.<br>[[File:2022-09-17 19-11-03.jpg|600x600px]]
*#Attach the 3D-printed inlet vents to the evaporator using the bulkhead cutouts for those vents to align them parallel and with the right distance between them. The vents are not symmetrical, there is a left and right one. Check the notch on the bottom to align with the seam of the evaporator housing.  There are no extra pop rivets for the nut-plates, be careful that you do grab the nut-plate before setting the rivets.  The screws are really hard to get into the nut-pates. Consider putting each nut-plate in a vice and test-driving the screw in once with a bit of lube and an electric impact driver before mounting them.
*#Attach the 3D-printed inlet vents to the evaporator using the bulkhead cutouts for those vents to align them parallel and with the right distance between them. The vents are not symmetrical, there is a left and right one. Check the notch on the bottom to align with the seam of the evaporator housing.  There are no extra pop rivets for the nut-plates, be careful that you do grab the nut-plate before setting the rivets.  The screws are really hard to get into the nut-pates. Consider putting each nut-plate in a vice and test-driving the screw in once with a bit of lube and an electric impact driver before mounting them.
*#Clamp the bulkhead to the fuselage. Center it left/right by measuring the edge distance at the bottom, should be some 24mm. One of the two holes near the center on the bottom edge will line up with the vertical tailcone strut. Now draw a line with the measured edge distance parallel to the tailcone bulkhead outer edge to outline where the AC bulkhead needs to sit, so it's centered and the left and right edge runs parallel to the outer skin. Use a level, make sure the plane is horizontal, clamp the AC bulkhead matching the marked up outline and check for being horizontal.
*#Cleco the luggage floors in
*#Deburr the lower close-out panel to avoid scratches
*#Cleco the lower close-out panel's bottom edge to the floor panels / bulkhead
*#Secure the lower close-out panel to the bulkhead so it lays flat on the bulkhead
*#Screw the AC upper close-out panel and the stock lower close-out panel together at the 4 holes of the seat-belt cable guide (using the largest bolts you can find that fit to align the two)  [[File:2022-10-08 17-49-10.jpg|400x400px]]
*#Clamp the bulkhead to the fuselage. Ensure it centered left/right
*#Attach the front bracket to the evaporator.
*#Attach the front bracket to the evaporator.
*#Use wooden shims to align the evaporator with the inlet vent holes. The front bracket needs to sit on a shim (about 0.675 inches) and the rear end of the evaporator needs to sit on a shim (about 0.98 inches). Make sure the evaporator doesn't sit too high as the pipe fixtures that stick out of the evaporator might then interfere with the J-stringer on the right side.
*#Use wooden shims to align the evaporator with the inlet vent holes. The front bracket needs to sit on a shim (about 0.675 inches) and the rear end of the evaporator needs to sit on a shim (about 0.98 inches). Make sure the evaporator doesn't sit too high as the pipe fixtures that stick out of the evaporator might then interfere with the J-stringer on the right side.
*#Drill a hole on each side into the evaporator at the top hole of the rear bracket. Put an 8-32 nutsert anchor in, attach the rear bracket and mount the rear bracket on the shelf.
*#Drill a hole on each side into the evaporator at the top hole of the rear bracket. Put an 8-32 nutsert anchor in, attach the rear bracket and mount the rear bracket on the shelf.
*#Make a new front bracket that is 0.675 inches taller<br>[[File:2022-09-18 17-57-55.jpg|400px]]
*#Make a new front bracket that is 0.675 inches taller<br>[[File:2022-09-18 17-57-55.jpg|400px]]
*Don't mount the dryer as shown on the drawings of the manual (half way between evaporator and side skin). It needs to stay clear of the seatbelt shoulder harness that passes through this area.
*Mount the dryer as shown on the drawings of the manual (half way between evaporator and side skin). Make sure it stays clear of the seatbelt shoulder harness that passes through this area. [[File:2022-10-08 18-28-13.jpg|400x400px]]
*Don't install the pressure switch into the dryer! The dryer is pressurized with nitrogen and neither the caps at the in and out port, nor the cap for the pressure sensor must be removed until you are ready to fill the system. If you accidentally depressurized the dryer, it needs to be replaced.
*Don't install the pressure switch into the dryer! The dryer is pressurized with nitrogen and neither the caps at the in and out port, nor the cap for the pressure sensor must be removed until you are ready to fill the system. If you accidentally depressurized the dryer, it needs to be replaced.
*One needs a 2.5 inch hole saw to drill the hole for the dryer. Missing in the list of tools needed for installation.
*One needs a 2.5 inch hole saw to drill the hole for the dryer. Missing in the list of tools needed for installation.
*The manual shows a 90 degree fitting for the dryer with service port however the kit contains a 90 degree fitting without a port and a straight hose coupling with port. None of the drawings or pictures show this new variation. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/249625742733962/posts/692509681778897 FB thread]. The kit now assumes, you mount the new inline service port at the front edge of the shelf wherever convenient.
*The manual shows a 90 degree fitting for the dryer with service port however the kit contains a 90 degree fitting without a port and a straight hose coupling with port. None of the drawings or pictures show this new variation. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/249625742733962/posts/692509681778897 FB thread]. The kit now assumes, you mount the new inline service port at the front edge of the shelf wherever convenient.
Martin
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