SECTION 14: WING RIBS: Difference between revisions
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* Step 1: it's easy to make these cuts using a bandsaw | * Step 1: it's easy to make these cuts using a bandsaw | ||
* Step 2: perhaps the easiest way to make these cuts is with an oscillating tool | * Step 2: perhaps the easiest way to make these cuts is with an oscillating tool | ||
* Step 5: the aftmost bottom flange hole of each W-1011-L and W-1025B-R (the little tab) will need to be dimpled in the future. This may be difficult to access once this is riveted together. Consider dimpling these two holes now on each assembly. Most likely this step is deferred to allow future final-drilling for #40 but with modern kits this is already final sized. | |||
* Step 8: Same as the note for Step 5, but the aft-most bottom hole of W-1010-R and W-1025B-L in this case. | |||
== Page 14-04 == | == Page 14-04 == | ||
Latest revision as of 04:51, 24 December 2025
Build Instruction Updates
- N/A
Check for more recent updates here
Videos
Before You Start
Special/New Tools/Supplies
- You need a 3/8" reamer for this section.
Hints
- See this FB Post on ribs being shipped where embossing was done very shallow or not done at all. Also, newer ribs have an additional relief cut that causes edge distance issues with a nutplate.
- There is a nutplate you will need to install in Section 20, specifically see 20-5 steps 6 and 9. It is one specific K1100-08 that will be on the bottom aft of the W-1010-R (and W-1010-L). In section 20, you use the bottom skin to match-drill the #8 hole and the #40 nutplate attach holes. But then you have to dimple that #8 hole and the flap hinge bracket's rivets are going to be in your way. Consider using the bottom skin to match-drill this one nutplate now, deburr, and dimple, before you assemble the W-1010-R. See this VAF thread for more info.
Page 14-02
- Step 6:
- Note that you do use the "R" W-1010 for the left wing, but all of the parts you attach to it are "-R" parts. Throughout this whole section, L and R don't refer to the left or right wing, just the handedness of the part.
- Van's may have started shipping a modified W-1010-R in 2025 and labeled W-1010-R-1 (and also W-1010-L-1). On this part the flanges have more segments than shown.
- Possibly due to the revised part, the W-1029A-L may not Cleko in place without grinding it down a little bit.
- Step 10: The W-1025B-L and W-1025B-R brackets come attached and need to be cut apart. There are three sets in total.
Page 14-03
- Step 1: it's easy to make these cuts using a bandsaw
- Step 2: perhaps the easiest way to make these cuts is with an oscillating tool
- Step 5: the aftmost bottom flange hole of each W-1011-L and W-1025B-R (the little tab) will need to be dimpled in the future. This may be difficult to access once this is riveted together. Consider dimpling these two holes now on each assembly. Most likely this step is deferred to allow future final-drilling for #40 but with modern kits this is already final sized.
- Step 8: Same as the note for Step 5, but the aft-most bottom hole of W-1010-R and W-1025B-L in this case.
Page 14-04
- Step 2: The second instruction says to insert the snap bushing from the inside but Figure 2 shows it inserted from the outside and that seems to be more correct as the W-1029C angle that got notched would be in the way of the snap bushing when inserted from the inside.