SECTION 14: WING RIBS: Difference between revisions
Jump to navigation
Jump to search
m (→Page 14-05) |
m (→Page 14-02) |
||
| (7 intermediate revisions by 2 users not shown) | |||
| Line 2: | Line 2: | ||
* N/A | * N/A | ||
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here] | Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here] | ||
=== Videos === | |||
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-emDvk3Iq0 Plane Lady: Van's Aircraft RV 10 Build Wing Ribs] | |||
=== Before You Start === | |||
==== Special/New Tools/Supplies ==== | |||
* You need a 3/8" reamer for this section. | |||
== Hints == | |||
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8029357263851969 FB Post] on ribs being shipped where embossing was done very shallow or not done at all. Also, newer ribs have an additional relief cut that causes edge distance issues with a nutplate. | |||
* There is a nutplate you will need to install in Section 20, specifically see 20-5 steps 6 and 9. It is one specific K1100-08 that will be on the bottom aft of the W-1010-R (and W-1010-L). In section 20, you use the bottom skin to match-drill the #8 hole and the #40 nutplate attach holes. But then you have to dimple that #8 hole and the flap hinge bracket's rivets are going to be in your way. Consider using the bottom skin to match-drill this one nutplate now, deburr, and dimple, before you assemble the W-1010-R. See [https://vansairforce.net/threads/what-tool-do-you-use-to-dimple-extra-tight-tolerance-on-inboard-aft-most-8-nut-plate-on-wing-rib.238207/ this VAF thread] for more info. | |||
== Page 14-02 == | |||
* Step 6: | |||
** Note that you do use the "R" W-1010 for the left wing, but all of the parts you attach to it are "-R" parts. Throughout this whole section, L and R don't refer to the left or right wing, just the handedness of the part. | |||
** Van's may have started shipping a modified W-1010-R in 2025 and labeled W-1010-R-1 (and also W-1010-L-1). On this part the flanges have more segments than shown. | |||
** Possibly due to the revised part, the W-1029A-L may not Cleko in place without grinding it down a little bit. | |||
* Step 10: The W-1025B-L and W-1025B-R brackets come attached and need to be cut apart. There are three sets in total. | |||
[[File:2025-12-01 18.04.34.jpg|none|thumb|Close-up view of 14-02 Step 6 showing how parts fit.]] | |||
== Page 14-03 == | |||
* Step 1: it's easy to make these cuts using a bandsaw | |||
* Step 2: perhaps the easiest way to make these cuts is with an oscillating tool | |||
== Page 14-04 == | |||
* Step 2: The second instruction says to insert the snap bushing from the inside but Figure 2 shows it inserted from the outside and that seems to be more correct as the W-1029C angle that got notched would be in the way of the snap bushing when inserted from the inside. | |||
== Page 14-05 == | == Page 14-05 == | ||
* Several builders report callouts on page 14-05 with the wrong number of rivets to attach the ribs to the spar: Innermost rib needs 6 instead of 5 rivets, the 2 ribs inside the outmost rib need 8 instead of 4 rivets. See FB post [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansaircraftbuilders/posts/10166426530055525 3/28/2022] and VAF thread [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=135926 3/20/2016] | * Several builders report callouts on page 14-05 with the wrong number of rivets to attach the ribs to the spar: Innermost rib needs 6 instead of 5 rivets, the 2 ribs inside the outmost rib need 8 instead of 4 rivets. See FB post [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansaircraftbuilders/posts/10166426530055525 3/28/2022] and VAF thread [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=135926 3/20/2016] | ||
[[Category:Hints]] | |||
Latest revision as of 16:05, 2 December 2025
Build Instruction Updates
- N/A
Check for more recent updates here
Videos
Before You Start
Special/New Tools/Supplies
- You need a 3/8" reamer for this section.
Hints
- See this FB Post on ribs being shipped where embossing was done very shallow or not done at all. Also, newer ribs have an additional relief cut that causes edge distance issues with a nutplate.
- There is a nutplate you will need to install in Section 20, specifically see 20-5 steps 6 and 9. It is one specific K1100-08 that will be on the bottom aft of the W-1010-R (and W-1010-L). In section 20, you use the bottom skin to match-drill the #8 hole and the #40 nutplate attach holes. But then you have to dimple that #8 hole and the flap hinge bracket's rivets are going to be in your way. Consider using the bottom skin to match-drill this one nutplate now, deburr, and dimple, before you assemble the W-1010-R. See this VAF thread for more info.
Page 14-02
- Step 6:
- Note that you do use the "R" W-1010 for the left wing, but all of the parts you attach to it are "-R" parts. Throughout this whole section, L and R don't refer to the left or right wing, just the handedness of the part.
- Van's may have started shipping a modified W-1010-R in 2025 and labeled W-1010-R-1 (and also W-1010-L-1). On this part the flanges have more segments than shown.
- Possibly due to the revised part, the W-1029A-L may not Cleko in place without grinding it down a little bit.
- Step 10: The W-1025B-L and W-1025B-R brackets come attached and need to be cut apart. There are three sets in total.
Page 14-03
- Step 1: it's easy to make these cuts using a bandsaw
- Step 2: perhaps the easiest way to make these cuts is with an oscillating tool
Page 14-04
- Step 2: The second instruction says to insert the snap bushing from the inside but Figure 2 shows it inserted from the outside and that seems to be more correct as the W-1029C angle that got notched would be in the way of the snap bushing when inserted from the inside.