SECTION 46: ENGINE MOUNT & LANDING GEAR: Difference between revisions

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* You *might* need a 3/8" reamer for the nose wheel axle
* You *might* need a 3/8" reamer for the nose wheel axle
* Some people consider lock nuts to be one-time use so consider using other hardware to test-fit and/or ordering some extra lock nuts especially if you have to re-work anything as you go (MS21045-6, AN365-428, AN365-524, etc).
* Some people consider lock nuts to be one-time use so consider using other hardware to test-fit and/or ordering some extra lock nuts especially if you have to re-work anything as you go (MS21045-6, AN365-428, AN365-524, etc).
* If you have Beringer main wheels, the cotter pins can be difficult to find. Consider using a similar part during build if not for permanent attachment. You'll find that AN381-4-40 / MS24665-379 will fit just fine.


Modifications to Consider
Modifications to Consider
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* Consider [https://flyboyaccessories.com/products/rv-jack-points-rv-10 jack points] so that you can change a tire with a standard car jack. Put these on after the brake assembly is on the main gear struts (you may not be able to get the brake assembly onto the strut with these in place).
* Consider [https://flyboyaccessories.com/products/rv-jack-points-rv-10 jack points] so that you can change a tire with a standard car jack. Put these on after the brake assembly is on the main gear struts (you may not be able to get the brake assembly onto the strut with these in place).
* If you are using tubeless tires, Beringer makes a tire-pressure monitoring system similar to what you find on modern automobiles. Note that it is certified and fairly expensive, though.
* If you are using tubeless tires, Beringer makes a tire-pressure monitoring system similar to what you find on modern automobiles. Note that it is certified and fairly expensive, though.
* If you are using stock wheels, consider upgrading to permanently-sealed bearings.


=== Notes ===
=== Notes ===
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