SECTION 11: EMPENNAGE ATTACH: Difference between revisions

* A method of temporarily attaching the elevators is quite useful; consider some extra AN3-10A bolts that you can grind down for this purpose or consider making something [https://www.rv7-factory.com/?p=930 like this].

* A [https://www.aircraft-tool.com/detail?id=AE408 Rod End Bearing Tool] can be quite useful, or you can [http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/odd-ends.html#bearing%20tool create your own] (pictured below).

[[File:rodendtool.jpg|500px]]

Step 3: This can be nearly impossible to do without a few tricks. Even then it is best to get at least one helper.

* The brackets on the elevators that you are attaching to in Detail B tend to be a bit too narrow.

Step 4: You can use two clamps per side instead of duct tape.

Step 5: Now this is where you use Detail C from the previous page. Make sure to fill the gaps as much as possible and fully tighten. Make sure the elevators are perfectly even before drilling. You can use flat dental floss to help get the washers in place, and/or Washer Wrenches. It's tough to get two washers in one side without some dental floss.

Again, consider using two clamps per side to line the counterweight with he HS.

Step 3: If you need to remove the VS and HS later before transporting to your hangar, you do not need remove and prime the parts at this stage.

Step 4:  This step details how to mark a template to drill six holes around each end

of the control rod.

Rather than cutting up the plans as Vans suggest, take a photocopy and use that.

When installing bolts in the rod end bearings for the elevators and rudder, I used a set of hemostats w/ some blue tape on the tip to hold the bolts during the install.  Worked great to take in/out of the bearings.<br>[[File:2023-12-23 16-41-04.jpg|Rod End Bearing installation|400px]]

* Step 5: As a starting point, check these drawinging<br>[[File:Elev1.jpg|600px]]<br>[[File:Elev2.jpg|600px]]<br>The centered starting values for the trim cable nut positions are not very good and require painful iterations.<br>Goal is that both tabs go down 35 degrees, are in sync in neutral and the right tab goes up 25 degrees while the left one stays neutral in all up (see also section [[CHAPTER:_PRE_FIRST_FLIGHT]]).

* Good right cable starting values:<br>3 threads exposed at the servo clevis,<br>21.4 mm from where the green ends at the servo side to the first nut<br>40.5 mm from where the green ends at the trim tab side to the bracket end<br>1.5 mm exposed of the threads at the trim tab clevis.