SECTION 46: ENGINE MOUNT & LANDING GEAR: Difference between revisions

← Older edit

SECTION 46: ENGINE MOUNT & LANDING GEAR (view source)

Revision as of 13:40, 1 October 2025

1,842 bytes added , 1 October

Added some getting started tips/supplies.

VisualWikitext

Kirkbauer

186

edits

@@ Line 2: / Line 2: @@
 * 10/06/20 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/46_10.pdf 46_10.pdf]
 Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
------
+=== Before You Start ===
+Special/New Tools/Supplies
+* You will need Aeroshell #5 grease for the wheel bearings; even if you use other types of wheels, you will need grease for this section in general.
+* You will need either a 0.311 drill bit or reamer for drilling the main gear legs mounts
+* You *might* need a 3/8" reamer for the nose wheel axle
+* Some people consider lock nuts to be one-time use so consider using other hardware to test-fit and/or ordering some extra lock nuts especially if you have to re-work anything as you go (MS21045-6, AN365-428, AN365-524, etc).
+Modifications to Consider
+* There are other wheel/brake options that are offered by Van's and third-parties. If you go with Beringer, [https://www.airplane.build/2020/12/main-landing-gear-installed.html this blog will be helpful].
+* Consider [https://flyboyaccessories.com/products/rv-jack-points-rv-10 jack points] so that you can change a tire with a standard car jack. Put these on after the brake assembly is on the main gear struts (you may not be able to get the brake assembly onto the strut with these in place).
+=== Notes ===
 ==== Page 46-02 ====
+* If you are planning on using [[Skybolt Hints|Skybolt]] camlocks instead of hinge pins around the firewall, consider laying out those brackets after temporarily installing the engine mount (Step 1) to make sure you don't have interference with the engine mount and the fasteners. Then, after removing the engine mount (Step 2) it will be easier to rivet those in place.
 * See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7827327290721635 FB thread] on how to check you have nuts with sufficient friction.
 * Good results for the initial alignment can be achieved by centering the engine mount first using rubber embedded dowels. See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/2115940268527061/ this FB thread]<br>[[File:Screen Shot 2023-04-24 at 6.46.40 AM.png|200x200px]]<br>[[File:Screen Shot 2023-04-24 at 2.50.50 PM.png|200x200px]]
@@ Line 31: / Line 47: @@
 ====Page 46-06====
 *Don't forget to grease the bushings on their outside.
-* Tighten to castle nuts to spec, the bushing itself must not rotate. Check that the parts riding on the outside of the bushings still rotate after torquing the castle nuts. If not, see figure 1, it says to remove some of the powder coating if necessary.
+* Tighten the castle nuts to spec, the bushing itself must not rotate. Check that the parts riding on the outside of the bushings still rotate after torquing the castle nuts. If not, see figure 1, it says to remove some of the powder coating if necessary.
+* Check for any play in the horizontal bolt / bushing setup, also see this [https://www.facebook.com/reel/1723270615230761 FB thread].
+====Page 46-07====
+* If you prime the fork, the AN6-65A bolt may not fit, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/24515968341430934 FB thread]. If you prime, probably best to tape up the hole before priming.
 [[Category:Hints]]