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SECTION 46: ENGINE MOUNT & LANDING GEAR: Difference between revisions
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SECTION 46: ENGINE MOUNT & LANDING GEAR (view source)
Revision as of 13:40, 1 October 2025
, 1 OctoberAdded some getting started tips/supplies.
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* 10/06/20 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/46_10.pdf 46_10.pdf] | * 10/06/20 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/46_10.pdf 46_10.pdf] | ||
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here] | Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here] | ||
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=== Before You Start === | |||
Special/New Tools/Supplies | |||
* You will need Aeroshell #5 grease for the wheel bearings; even if you use other types of wheels, you will need grease for this section in general. | |||
* You will need either a 0.311 drill bit or reamer for drilling the main gear legs mounts | |||
* You *might* need a 3/8" reamer for the nose wheel axle | |||
* Some people consider lock nuts to be one-time use so consider using other hardware to test-fit and/or ordering some extra lock nuts especially if you have to re-work anything as you go (MS21045-6, AN365-428, AN365-524, etc). | |||
Modifications to Consider | |||
* There are other wheel/brake options that are offered by Van's and third-parties. If you go with Beringer, [https://www.airplane.build/2020/12/main-landing-gear-installed.html this blog will be helpful]. | |||
* Consider [https://flyboyaccessories.com/products/rv-jack-points-rv-10 jack points] so that you can change a tire with a standard car jack. Put these on after the brake assembly is on the main gear struts (you may not be able to get the brake assembly onto the strut with these in place). | |||
=== Notes === | |||
==== Page 46-02 ==== | ==== Page 46-02 ==== | ||
* Good results can be achieved by centering the engine mount first using rubber embedded dowels.<br>[[File:Screen Shot 2023-04-24 at 6.46.40 AM.png|200x200px]] | * If you are planning on using [[Skybolt Hints|Skybolt]] camlocks instead of hinge pins around the firewall, consider laying out those brackets after temporarily installing the engine mount (Step 1) to make sure you don't have interference with the engine mount and the fasteners. Then, after removing the engine mount (Step 2) it will be easier to rivet those in place. | ||
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7827327290721635 FB thread] on how to check you have nuts with sufficient friction. | |||
* Good results for the initial alignment can be achieved by centering the engine mount first using rubber embedded dowels. See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/2115940268527061/ this FB thread]<br>[[File:Screen Shot 2023-04-24 at 6.46.40 AM.png|200x200px]]<br>[[File:Screen Shot 2023-04-24 at 2.50.50 PM.png|200x200px]] | |||
* Parts | * Parts | ||
** Steel dowels: McMaster 8893K178 Tight-Tolerance Oil-Hardening O1 Tool Steel Rod, 0.1875" Diameter, 3 Feet Long. Cut six 1 1/3 inch pieces off and chamfer. | **Steel dowels: McMaster 8893K178 Tight-Tolerance Oil-Hardening O1 Tool Steel Rod, 0.1875" Diameter, 3 Feet Long. Cut six 1 1/3 inch pieces off and chamfer. | ||
** Rubber fuel line: Aircraft Spruce Part# 05-03597, OD 0.5 inch, ID 0.25 in, cut 6 pieces, 7/8 inch | **Rubber fuel line: Aircraft Spruce Part# 05-03597, OD 0.5 inch, ID 0.25 in, cut 6 pieces, 7/8 inch | ||
** Silicone Tubing: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RYD6G5K Amazon], OD 0.25 in, ID 5/32 in, cut 6 pieces, 7/8 inch | ** Silicone Tubing: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RYD6G5K Amazon], OD 0.25 in, ID 5/32 in, cut 6 pieces, 7/8 inch | ||
**.5 OD / .257 ID Nylon spacers to guide drilling (fits 1/4 inch drill bit, enlarge as you step up the hole to 3/8): [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-x-1-in-x-257-I-D-Nylon-Spacer-815018/204276572 Home Depot] | |||
*Insert the silicone hose into the rubber hose. | |||
*Insert the dowel into the silicone hose (tap it in using a hammer). | |||
*Grease the outer side of the rubber hose before inserting the dowels into the six engine mount attach tubes from the front. | |||
*Use a 3/16 drill and run through the 6 engine mount holes. Ensure the 3/16 dowels go in. | |||
*Mount the engine mount. Some of the dowels will be pushed back, try gently to push them into the firewall holes using light taps. | |||
*Remove one dowel at a time (using a punch from the inside, then grab it with nose pliers), drill up the hole using modified Nylon spacers to center the drill, and secure with a bolt. The drill steps are:<br>[[File:2023-04-27 19-52-27.jpg|400x400px]] | |||
** 3/16 (0.1875) original hole | |||
** 5/16 (0.3125) Note: a 1/4 drill bit will bind / break off, better to do larger steps | |||
** 23/64 (0.359375) Note: recommended hole size for reamer to finish up | |||
** 3/8 reamer (0.375), e.g. [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076DMH4BF at Amazon] | |||
* Note: Don't waste the single-use metal stop nuts yet, instead use AN6 castle nuts (from the kit, not used yet) or 3/8-24 hardware store nuts for the drill process. | |||
* Note: AN6 bolts may vary in diameter between .371 and .374. If you ream the hole to .375, there might be some intentional play. Some 3/8 drill bits are only .371 which may lead to binding if you don't ream to .375. | |||
* Note: Some of the 1/2 inch attachment tubes of the engine mount have reduced diameter spots inside from welding. The bushings may bind there. You might have to grind the bushing. | |||
* Note: If you have issues getting the fuel hose out of the hole, use a hook or awl and pierce the hose and pull out. If you have issues getting the nylon bushings out, consider using a screw extractor, e.g. [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09W5PW588 Screw Extractor Set] | |||
* Note: Washer-00017 is raw steel and will corrode if not coated or greased. | |||
====Page 46-04==== | |||
* Step 1: You need to remove the powder coating from the areas that need to engage with the main gear weldings, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8370057203115305 FB post]. | |||
====Page 46-06==== | ====Page 46-06==== | ||
*Don't forget to grease the bushings on their outside. | *Don't forget to grease the bushings on their outside. | ||
*Tighten | * Tighten the castle nuts to spec, the bushing itself must not rotate. Check that the parts riding on the outside of the bushings still rotate after torquing the castle nuts. If not, see figure 1, it says to remove some of the powder coating if necessary. | ||
* Check for any play in the horizontal bolt / bushing setup, also see this [https://www.facebook.com/reel/1723270615230761 FB thread]. | |||
====Page 46-07==== | |||
* If you prime the fork, the AN6-65A bolt may not fit, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/24515968341430934 FB thread]. If you prime, probably best to tape up the hole before priming. | |||
[[Category:Hints]] | |||