SECTION 43: CABIN COVER: Difference between revisions

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m (Added overhead console photo.)
 
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** Consider a good belt sander and plenty of replacement belts
** Consider a good belt sander and plenty of replacement belts
** Use an angle-grinder or a die grinder with plenty of air supply -- consider diamond or masonry cutting discs
** Use an angle-grinder or a die grinder with plenty of air supply -- consider diamond or masonry cutting discs
** If you don't have a lot of fresh epoxy go ahead and order a gallon for the cabin top plus doors.
* Fiberglass Dust Protection
* Fiberglass Dust Protection
** [https://www.uline.com/BL_1637/3M-Paint-Project-Respirators?keywords=3m+respirator 3M Respirator]
** [https://www.uline.com/BL_1637/3M-Paint-Project-Respirators?keywords=3m+respirator 3M Respirator]
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Modifications to Consider
Modifications to Consider


* If you will be painting your interior, it may be easier to do an initial painting of the cabin top before attaching it (you'll need to touch it up later). Note that when you start working on the doors you will need to either clamp them to the cabin top or some people prefer to drill temporary cleco holes. If you prefer the latter then you may not want to paint until after the doors are done.
* If you are going to use McMaster door seals and are also going to be painting your cabin top, consider fully prepping the interior surface for paint but not priming or painting anything forward of the rear windows. Prepping is easier before the cabin top is attached but anything anywhere close to the doors will have a lot of work to do once the seals are finished.
* If you are NOT using McMaster seals and ARE painting the cabin top, you should be able to fully prep, prime, and paint before attaching to the fuselage.
* Some people run conduit for wires up the pillars on either side of the windscreen -- you'll want to do that before permanently attaching the cabin top (other people just run wires up the center support bar instead)
* Some people run conduit for wires up the pillars on either side of the windscreen -- you'll want to do that before permanently attaching the cabin top (other people just run wires up the center support bar instead)
* If installing an [https://www.aerosportproducts.com/product/rv-10-carbon-fiber-overhead-console/ AeroSport Overhead Console] it will be easier to fit and attach it before attaching the cabin top
* If installing an [https://www.aerosportproducts.com/product/rv-10-carbon-fiber-overhead-console/ AeroSport Overhead Console] it will be easier to fit and attach it before attaching the cabin top
** If you do this now, you also probably want to install the Gas Strut Attach Brackets (or aftermarket alternatives) as described on page 45-16.
** Note that the instructions are vague about the position of these brackets; if the outboard end is too high the door will hit the bracket when closed.
* If interested in the [https://www.aerosportproducts.com/product/rv-10-door-sill-cap/ Aerosport Carbon Fiber Door Sills] now is a good time to order those.


=== Resources ===
=== Resources ===
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* Step 2
* Step 2
** Note: The center rivet line on the F-1071 Forward Top skin is NOT center to the airplane! It is offset along with the F-1044A forward fuselage rib and the top center screw of the instrument panel. The center strut is attached to the rib's side.
** Note: The center rivet line on the F-1071 Forward Top skin is NOT center to the airplane! It is offset along with the F-1044A forward fuselage rib and the top center screw of the instrument panel. The center strut is attached to the rib's side.
** Excessive thickness of the welds at the bottom end of the center cabin brace may prevent proper insertion down to the shim. Consider notching the skin to make it fit. Also consider whether you want cables to run down inside as they also need a skin opening. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9793935377394140 FB post].
* Step 4
* Step 4
** Since you are drilling through steel guided by a pilot hole in the rib's web, best to first drill with a sharp 1/8 carbide drill bit, then upsize to #12
** Since you are drilling through steel guided by a pilot hole in the rib's web, best to first drill with a sharp 1/8 carbide drill bit, then upsize to #12
* Step 5
* Step 5
** The kit comes with three 3 inch cutting discs for trimming acrylic ([https://store.vansaircraft.com/norton-cutting-disc-3-tool-3-cutting-disc.html Norton Discs]). You might have to enlarge the very small center hole to make it fit your grinder or to fit into a cut-off disc arbor. High rpms are not necessary for cutting acrylic, an arbor in a standard drill works fine.
** The kit comes with three 3 inch cutting discs for trimming acrylic ([https://store.vansaircraft.com/norton-cutting-disc-3-tool-3-cutting-disc.html Norton Discs]). You might have to enlarge the very small center hole to make it fit your grinder or to fit into a cut-off disc arbor. High rpms are not necessary for cutting acrylic, an arbor in a standard drill works fine.
[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]
 
==== Page 43-11 ====
 
* Step 3
** These rivets will be inaccessible if you are bonding the Aerosport center roof console in prior to attaching the cabin top. Suggest installing these rivets BEFORE attaching the top.
 
==== Page 43-12 Hardware ====
* Step 1
** On the forward door post, the longer 10R14 bolts go into the 3 upper holes, the shorter 10R11 ones go into the lower 5 holes.
* Step 2
** If using the Aerosport Carbon Fiber Door Sills, consider installing them before doing this step. Trim them and put them into place, with the cut edge fitting under the radius where the cabin top sits on the door sill. Then apply the epoxy/filler as directed, permanently attaching the carbon fiber and covering the cut edge.
 
[[Category:Hints]]
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