QB Fuselage: Difference between revisions
Jump to navigation
Jump to search
| Line 10: | Line 10: | ||
* "Page 27-2: If going with a Lycoming engine, the three holes in the recess need to be widened to 5/8 inch with a Unibit". If you have an engine with electronic injection, you don't need the rightmost hole as there is no mixture. Dimple and close with 3/32 rivet. | * "Page 27-2: If going with a Lycoming engine, the three holes in the recess need to be widened to 5/8 inch with a Unibit". If you have an engine with electronic injection, you don't need the rightmost hole as there is no mixture. Dimple and close with 3/32 rivet. | ||
* Page 29-9, step 5: Both longerons were too long (the left one will interfere with the vertical post of the baggage door, the right one will interfere with tailcone bulkhead). Mark the correct length from the last rivet, jam a piece of robust steel sheet metal between the longeron and the skin and cut the longeron with a dremel "thin cut" metal disk. | * Page 29-9, step 5: Both longerons were too long (the left one will interfere with the vertical post of the baggage door, the right one will interfere with tailcone bulkhead). Mark the correct length from the last rivet, jam a piece of robust steel sheet metal between the longeron and the skin and cut the longeron with a dremel "thin cut" metal disk. | ||
* It is not absolutely necessary to take the front floor panels out. However, foreign objects have been found trapped underneath (rivet, sandpaper), also sticky areas that will accumulate dust. To take the front floors out, you need to shoehorn the outside edge to get past the side structure and you need to hold the inner back corner down firmly to maximize the distance to the side structure. Be careful not to kink the aft flange (better to slightly bend the center section of it backwards so it can allow bending). | |||
Revision as of 17:41, 21 March 2022
Tools
- #36 drill bit to drill out 1/8 pop rivets
Links
Additional Comments
- References to "Page 28-16: Both sets of F-1057 L/R Mid-Seat Rail Supports" are outdated as newer fuselages no longer have this part.
- "Page 27-2: If going with a Lycoming engine, the three holes in the recess need to be widened to 5/8 inch with a Unibit". If you have an engine with electronic injection, you don't need the rightmost hole as there is no mixture. Dimple and close with 3/32 rivet.
- Page 29-9, step 5: Both longerons were too long (the left one will interfere with the vertical post of the baggage door, the right one will interfere with tailcone bulkhead). Mark the correct length from the last rivet, jam a piece of robust steel sheet metal between the longeron and the skin and cut the longeron with a dremel "thin cut" metal disk.
- It is not absolutely necessary to take the front floor panels out. However, foreign objects have been found trapped underneath (rivet, sandpaper), also sticky areas that will accumulate dust. To take the front floors out, you need to shoehorn the outside edge to get past the side structure and you need to hold the inner back corner down firmly to maximize the distance to the side structure. Be careful not to kink the aft flange (better to slightly bend the center section of it backwards so it can allow bending).