SECTION 6: VERTICAL STABILIZER: Difference between revisions
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FFooccuuss (talk | contribs) (Added a tip to shorten rivets to ribs/skins that are called out a bit longer than ideal, resulting in shop heads that set to one side.) |
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[[Category:Hints]] | * AN426AD3-3.5 rivets fastening the skins to the ribs may actually be a bit long for the .050" total skin thickness. (Ideal length would be .191") If you have trouble with these rivets leaning over instead of driving straight, consider taking off .020-.030" or using 3-3's instead. | ||
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Revision as of 02:20, 26 March 2024
Build Instruction Updates
- 10/05/21 06_10.pdf
Check for more recent updates here
Builder Videos
Plane Lady:
Jason Ellis:
- 6-2 Step 1 and 2
- 6-2 Step 3
- 6-3 Step 1-3
- 6-3 Step 4-5
- 6-3 Step 6-7
- 6-3 Step 8-11
- 6-4 Step 1-4
- 6-4 Step 5-7
- 6-5 Step 1-3
- 6-6 Step 1-4
- 6-6 Step 5-9
Notes
- When first putting the nose rib in, don't ram in in there and cleco. Be gentle, and it will probably need to be sanded down. Otherwise you will have "outtie" dents on the leading edge of your skin.
- These ribs have been sanded a bit and the web was fluted at the tip trying to bring the flanges closer together, but it still wasn't enough.
- Before you start riveting, put some electrical tape on your bucking bar. It will help to not beat up the AlClad or scratch off your primer if you did that.
- AN426AD3-3.5 rivets fastening the skins to the ribs may actually be a bit long for the .050" total skin thickness. (Ideal length would be .191") If you have trouble with these rivets leaning over instead of driving straight, consider taking off .020-.030" or using 3-3's instead.