SECTION 25: MID FUSE BULKHEADS - Revision history

Elorozco1: Added note on 25-3 on countersinking holes on F-01004C.

2025-09-21T19:37:29Z

Added note on 25-3 on countersinking holes on F-01004C.

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:37, 21 September 2025
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	See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5714844748636577 FB thread] on the subject.<br>		See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5714844748636577 FB thread] on the subject.<br>
	See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5766330576821327 FB thread] on the subject.		See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5766330576821327 FB thread] on the subject.

			===== Countersinking F-01004C-L/R =====
			See Page 29-14, Step 10. There are 5 holes in each F-01004C-L/R for double-flush rivets that will need to be machine countersunk from the inboard side of the flange. It will be much easier to do it here rather than waiting until the fuselage is assembled.

	====PAGE 25-4====		====PAGE 25-4====

Caret: /* PAGE 25-7 */

2025-05-05T07:36:19Z

PAGE 25-7

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:36, 5 May 2025
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	====PAGE 25-7====		====PAGE 25-7====
			Unless otherwise specified by Vans, all rivets should have their machine heads to the inside of the foot well. That is, the machine heads should be on the forward most F-1005B. This will aid the installation of the floor pan on page 35-2.

	* Enlarge the two holes at the lower corners of F-1005A to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later		* Enlarge the two holes at the lower corners of F-1005A to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later
	* Step 3: In section 29, page 29-14, step 9, you will be instructed to machine countersink the outboard #40 holes on the flanges of the F-1005C-L and F-1005C-R Bulkhead Side Channels. If your kit is newer and has final-sized holes, you will not need to final-drill these holes between now and then. Consider countersinking these #40 holes now as it is somewhat easier than doing it after it has been riveted to the fuselage. They should be flush on the outside and should accommodate an AN3 rivet with a 0.032 skin. Section 29-18 shows these five countersunk locations (on the inside of the F-1005C-L and -R parts) to be riveted double flush, just as the seven locations (per side) were done as shown above for Section 25-3.		* Step 3: In section 29, page 29-14, step 9, you will be instructed to machine countersink the outboard #40 holes on the flanges of the F-1005C-L and F-1005C-R Bulkhead Side Channels. If your kit is newer and has final-sized holes, you will not need to final-drill these holes between now and then. Consider countersinking these #40 holes now as it is somewhat easier than doing it after it has been riveted to the fuselage. They should be flush on the outside and should accommodate an AN3 rivet with a 0.032 skin. Section 29-18 shows these five countersunk locations (on the inside of the F-1005C-L and -R parts) to be riveted double flush, just as the seven locations (per side) were done as shown above for Section 25-3.

Martin at 14:20, 19 April 2025

2025-04-19T14:20:07Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:20, 19 April 2025
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	* Enlarge the two holes at the lower corners of F-1034A to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later		* Enlarge the two holes at the lower corners of F-1034A to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later

	[[~~index.php?title=~~Category:Hints]]		[[Category:Hints]]

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2025-03-18T00:10:20Z

PAGE 25-8

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:10, 18 March 2025
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	====PAGE 25-8====		====PAGE 25-8====
	It is easier to dimple the nutplate rivet holes in F-1034C L&R now rather than		If you are building from a final sized fuselage kit,
			it is easier to dimple the nutplate rivet holes in F-1034C L&R now rather than
	later in section 33 page 9 step 9.		later in section 33 page 9 step 9.

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2025-03-18T00:09:18Z

PAGE 25-8

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:09, 18 March 2025
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	====PAGE 25-8====		====PAGE 25-8====
			It is easier to dimple the nutplate rivet holes in F-1034C L&R now rather than
			later in section 33 page 9 step 9.

	I am still unable to interpret Figure 1 -- is the part shown concave or convex? I'm not sure. But F-1034D-L and F-1034D-R are definitely different. I thought I had it right, I riveted on this page, and I didn't notice I had them backwards until the end of Section 26. I found that my F-1034C-L and F-1034C-R were angled outboard and they should be more or less perpendicular to F-1034A. I don't see a downside to leaving these cleco'd and riveting in section 26.		I am still unable to interpret Figure 1 -- is the part shown concave or convex? I'm not sure. But F-1034D-L and F-1034D-R are definitely different. I thought I had it right, I riveted on this page, and I didn't notice I had them backwards until the end of Section 26. I found that my F-1034C-L and F-1034C-R were angled outboard and they should be more or less perpendicular to F-1034A. I don't see a downside to leaving these cleco'd and riveting in section 26.

Kirkbauer at 14:41, 23 February 2025

2025-02-23T14:41:14Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:41, 23 February 2025
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	Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]		Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

	=== ~~Notes~~ ===		=== Hints ===

	* If you are jumping straight from the empennage to the fuselage, note that this section, like most of the fuselage sections, has multiple priming steps.		* If you are jumping straight from the empennage to the fuselage, note that this section, like most of the fuselage sections, has multiple priming steps.
Line 9:		Line 9:
	* When you hit a priming step, you can usually jump ahead and start working on other portions of the instructions, then perform multiple priming steps all at once, then go back and finish the steps after each circled "prime" step.		* When you hit a priming step, you can usually jump ahead and start working on other portions of the instructions, then perform multiple priming steps all at once, then go back and finish the steps after each circled "prime" step.

	==PAGE 25-2==		=== Notes ===


			====PAGE 25-2====

	Later in the build process (Section 28, page 28-12, Figure 2) you will need to have 7x double-flush rivets on each side of the forward main spar. That requires you to machine countersink the top/inside of the bottom flange for those 14 holes. The outermost holes on each side are very hard to properly countersink after you have attached the F-01004C center section bulkheads.		Later in the build process (Section 28, page 28-12, Figure 2) you will need to have 7x double-flush rivets on each side of the forward main spar. That requires you to machine countersink the top/inside of the bottom flange for those 14 holes. The outermost holes on each side are very hard to properly countersink after you have attached the F-01004C center section bulkheads.
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	[[File:2024-09-18 15.33.48.jpg\|thumb\|Seven double-flush rivets -- this is the top of the bottom flange of the forward bulkhead, and these are the shop ends of the rivets flush due to the countersinks.]]		[[File:2024-09-18 15.33.48.jpg\|thumb\|Seven double-flush rivets -- this is the top of the bottom flange of the forward bulkhead, and these are the shop ends of the rivets flush due to the countersinks.]]

	==PAGE 25-3==		====PAGE 25-3====
	=== ~~F-1004C-L and F1004C-R ==~~=		===== Conduit Summary =====
	==== Conduit Summary ====
	The holes in the bulkheads are only big enough to have cables run directly through them using snap bushings (vs. in a conduit). Also, there are only two holes on each side and depending on your needs, you need more.<br>		The holes in the bulkheads are only big enough to have cables run directly through them using snap bushings (vs. in a conduit). Also, there are only two holes on each side and depending on your needs, you need more.<br>
	You do need conduits for sure but only to tunnel underneath the baggage compartment. You can go back to snap bushings forward of the baggage compartment if you like. Some people though like to just run at least some of the conduits all the way from the tailcone to the front. Now that is where the diameter needs to increase from .75 to at least .77 for Van's Nylon conduits. It is a pain to enlarge those holes afterwards since they are tucked in underneath horizontally-running structures. Adding more holes can be done later but is also a bit easer if the bulkheads aren't in the plane yet.		You do need conduits for sure but only to tunnel underneath the baggage compartment. You can go back to snap bushings forward of the baggage compartment if you like. Some people though like to just run at least some of the conduits all the way from the tailcone to the front. Now that is where the diameter needs to increase from .75 to at least .77 for Van's Nylon conduits. It is a pain to enlarge those holes afterwards since they are tucked in underneath horizontally-running structures. Adding more holes can be done later but is also a bit easer if the bulkheads aren't in the plane yet.
	If you run conduits all the way from the back to the front, it will be easy to route the static pitot tube, the pitch and yaw servo cabling, the pitch trim servo cable, the battery cables etc. Also makes cabling for later add-ons easy.<br>		If you run conduits all the way from the back to the front, it will be easy to route the static pitot tube, the pitch and yaw servo cabling, the pitch trim servo cable, the battery cables etc. Also makes cabling for later add-ons easy.<br>

	==== Hints ====		===== Hints =====
	Step 8 details the assembly of the bulkheads to the center section prior to deburring and priming these parts. Now is a very good time to consider whether you will need additional pass-through holes in the bulkheads for items like conduit, pitot, static, and AoA sensor tubing, air conditioning lines, and other electrical circuits. Many builders find that the two holes referenced here and on [[#PAGE 25-4]] are insufficient for all of the required lines and circuits for an RV-10, especially if it is going to have a full glass panel and backup/redundant electrical systems.		Step 8 details the assembly of the bulkheads to the center section prior to deburring and priming these parts. Now is a very good time to consider whether you will need additional pass-through holes in the bulkheads for items like conduit, pitot, static, and AoA sensor tubing, air conditioning lines, and other electrical circuits. Many builders find that the two holes referenced here and on [[#PAGE 25-4]] are insufficient for all of the required lines and circuits for an RV-10, especially if it is going to have a full glass panel and backup/redundant electrical systems.

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	See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5766330576821327 FB thread] on the subject.		See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5766330576821327 FB thread] on the subject.

	==PAGE 25-4==		====PAGE 25-4====
	* Step 6<br> Step 6 requires you to 'Rivet the Mid Seat Rail Support Subassemblies, F-1004C-L and -R Center Section Bulkheads and F-1004N Stiffener Angles to the F-1004A Center Section Bulkhead per the callouts in Figure 2.' Figure 2 in the plans (Rev 1 Date 1/7/21) omits the quantity and rivets to be used. The older plans (Rev 0 Date 7/24/14) shows the rivets and places.		* Step 6<br> Step 6 requires you to 'Rivet the Mid Seat Rail Support Subassemblies, F-1004C-L and -R Center Section Bulkheads and F-1004N Stiffener Angles to the F-1004A Center Section Bulkhead per the callouts in Figure 2.' Figure 2 in the plans (Rev 1 Date 1/7/21) omits the quantity and rivets to be used. The older plans (Rev 0 Date 7/24/14) shows the rivets and places.
	* Step 7<br>Don't insert the snap bushings instead widen the two holes to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later. Also drill a third / forth hole with same diameter underneath the two holes for a more conduits if desired.		* Step 7<br>Don't insert the snap bushings instead widen the two holes to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later. Also drill a third / forth hole with same diameter underneath the two holes for a more conduits if desired.

	==PAGE 25-5==		====PAGE 25-5====
	* Step 7: Check that F-1004J has the correct length and is not pushing the spar caps out of their proper position where the wing attach bolt holes no longer line up through all layers. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7122547791199592 FB Post 2/2024].		* Step 7: Check that F-1004J has the correct length and is not pushing the spar caps out of their proper position where the wing attach bolt holes no longer line up through all layers. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7122547791199592 FB Post 2/2024].

	==PAGE 25-6==		====PAGE 25-6====
	*Step 4<br>Don't insert the snap bushings instead widen the two holes to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later. Also drill a third and forth hole with same diameter underneath the two holes for more conduits.		*Step 4<br>Don't insert the snap bushings instead widen the two holes to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later. Also drill a third and forth hole with same diameter underneath the two holes for more conduits.

	==PAGE 25-7==		====PAGE 25-7====
	* Enlarge the two holes at the lower corners of F-1005A to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later		* Enlarge the two holes at the lower corners of F-1005A to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later
	* Step 3: In section 29, page 29-14, step 9, you will be instructed to machine countersink the outboard #40 holes on the flanges of the F-1005C-L and F-1005C-R Bulkhead Side Channels. If your kit is newer and has final-sized holes, you will not need to final-drill these holes between now and then. Consider countersinking these #40 holes now as it is somewhat easier than doing it after it has been riveted to the fuselage. They should be flush on the outside and should accommodate an AN3 rivet with a 0.032 skin. Section 29-18 shows these five countersunk locations (on the inside of the F-1005C-L and -R parts) to be riveted double flush, just as the seven locations (per side) were done as shown above for Section 25-3.		* Step 3: In section 29, page 29-14, step 9, you will be instructed to machine countersink the outboard #40 holes on the flanges of the F-1005C-L and F-1005C-R Bulkhead Side Channels. If your kit is newer and has final-sized holes, you will not need to final-drill these holes between now and then. Consider countersinking these #40 holes now as it is somewhat easier than doing it after it has been riveted to the fuselage. They should be flush on the outside and should accommodate an AN3 rivet with a 0.032 skin. Section 29-18 shows these five countersunk locations (on the inside of the F-1005C-L and -R parts) to be riveted double flush, just as the seven locations (per side) were done as shown above for Section 25-3.
	* Step 5: If you will NOT have 5-point harnesses in the rear seats, you probably don't want to rivet the F-1005D crotch-strap lugs in this step.		* Step 5: If you will NOT have 5-point harnesses in the rear seats, you probably don't want to rivet the F-1005D crotch-strap lugs in this step.

	==PAGE 25-8==		====PAGE 25-8====
	I am still unable to interpret Figure 1 -- is the part shown concave or convex? I'm not sure. But F-1034D-L and F-1034D-R are definitely different. I thought I had it right, I riveted on this page, and I didn't notice I had them backwards until the end of Section 26. I found that my F-1034C-L and F-1034C-R were angled outboard and they should be more or less perpendicular to F-1034A. I don't see a downside to leaving these cleco'd and riveting in section 26.		I am still unable to interpret Figure 1 -- is the part shown concave or convex? I'm not sure. But F-1034D-L and F-1034D-R are definitely different. I thought I had it right, I riveted on this page, and I didn't notice I had them backwards until the end of Section 26. I found that my F-1034C-L and F-1034C-R were angled outboard and they should be more or less perpendicular to F-1034A. I don't see a downside to leaving these cleco'd and riveting in section 26.

Kirkbauer: /* PAGE 25-7 */

2025-02-23T14:05:46Z

PAGE 25-7

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:05, 23 February 2025
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	* Enlarge the two holes at the lower corners of F-1005A to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later		* Enlarge the two holes at the lower corners of F-1005A to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later
	* Step 3: In section 29, page 29-14, step 9, you will be instructed to machine countersink the outboard #40 holes on the flanges of the F-1005C-L and F-1005C-R Bulkhead Side Channels. If your kit is newer and has final-sized holes, you will not need to final-drill these holes between now and then. Consider countersinking these #40 holes now as it is somewhat easier than doing it after it has been riveted to the fuselage. They should be flush on the outside and should accommodate an AN3 rivet with a 0.032 skin. Section 29-18 shows these five countersunk locations (on the inside of the F-1005C-L and -R parts) to be riveted double flush, just as the seven locations (per side) were done as shown above for Section 25-3.		* Step 3: In section 29, page 29-14, step 9, you will be instructed to machine countersink the outboard #40 holes on the flanges of the F-1005C-L and F-1005C-R Bulkhead Side Channels. If your kit is newer and has final-sized holes, you will not need to final-drill these holes between now and then. Consider countersinking these #40 holes now as it is somewhat easier than doing it after it has been riveted to the fuselage. They should be flush on the outside and should accommodate an AN3 rivet with a 0.032 skin. Section 29-18 shows these five countersunk locations (on the inside of the F-1005C-L and -R parts) to be riveted double flush, just as the seven locations (per side) were done as shown above for Section 25-3.
			* Step 5: If you will NOT have 5-point harnesses in the rear seats, you probably don't want to rivet the F-1005D crotch-strap lugs in this step.

	==PAGE 25-8==		==PAGE 25-8==

Kirkbauer: Added note about grouping priming steps

2025-02-14T17:53:03Z

Added note about grouping priming steps

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:53, 14 February 2025
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	Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]		Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

	==~~PAGE 25-1~~==		=== Notes ===

			* If you are jumping straight from the empennage to the fuselage, note that this section, like most of the fuselage sections, has multiple priming steps.
			* If your priming process takes setup and cleanup, consider opening the PDF and searching for the word "prime" before you start each section. Consider circling these priming steps on the printed instructions.
			* When you hit a priming step, you can usually jump ahead and start working on other portions of the instructions, then perform multiple priming steps all at once, then go back and finish the steps after each circled "prime" step.

	==PAGE 25-2==		==PAGE 25-2==

Sampopfly: /* PAGE 25-7 */

2025-01-12T02:53:43Z

PAGE 25-7

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:53, 12 January 2025
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	==PAGE 25-7==		==PAGE 25-7==
	* Enlarge the two holes at the lower corners of F-1005A to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later		* Enlarge the two holes at the lower corners of F-1005A to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later
	* Step 3: In section 29, page 29-14, step 9, you will be instructed to machine countersink the outboard #40 holes on the flanges of the F-1005C-L and F-1005C-R Bulkhead Side Channels. If your kit is newer and has final-sized holes, you will not need to final-drill these holes between now and then. Consider countersinking these #40 holes now as it is somewhat easier than doing it after it has been riveted to the fuselage. They should be flush on the outside and should accommodate an AN3 rivet with a 0.032 skin.		* Step 3: In section 29, page 29-14, step 9, you will be instructed to machine countersink the outboard #40 holes on the flanges of the F-1005C-L and F-1005C-R Bulkhead Side Channels. If your kit is newer and has final-sized holes, you will not need to final-drill these holes between now and then. Consider countersinking these #40 holes now as it is somewhat easier than doing it after it has been riveted to the fuselage. They should be flush on the outside and should accommodate an AN3 rivet with a 0.032 skin. Section 29-18 shows these five countersunk locations (on the inside of the F-1005C-L and -R parts) to be riveted double flush, just as the seven locations (per side) were done as shown above for Section 25-3.

	==PAGE 25-8==		==PAGE 25-8==

Kirkbauer: /* PAGE 25-7 */

2024-10-12T20:42:41Z

PAGE 25-7

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:42, 12 October 2024
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	==PAGE 25-7==		==PAGE 25-7==
	* Enlarge the two holes at the lower corners of F-1005A to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later		* Enlarge the two holes at the lower corners of F-1005A to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later
			* Step 3: In section 29, page 29-14, step 9, you will be instructed to machine countersink the outboard #40 holes on the flanges of the F-1005C-L and F-1005C-R Bulkhead Side Channels. If your kit is newer and has final-sized holes, you will not need to final-drill these holes between now and then. Consider countersinking these #40 holes now as it is somewhat easier than doing it after it has been riveted to the fuselage. They should be flush on the outside and should accommodate an AN3 rivet with a 0.032 skin.

	==PAGE 25-8==		==PAGE 25-8==