SECTION 11: EMPENNAGE ATTACH - Revision history

Martin: /* Page 11-9 */

2025-10-03T05:30:11Z

Page 11-9

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:30, 3 October 2025
Line 52:		Line 52:
	When installing bolts in the rod end bearings for the elevators and rudder, I used a set of hemostats w/ some blue tape on the tip to hold the bolts during the install. Worked great to take in/out of the bearings.<br>[[File:2023-12-23 16-41-04.jpg\|Rod End Bearing installation\|400px]]		When installing bolts in the rod end bearings for the elevators and rudder, I used a set of hemostats w/ some blue tape on the tip to hold the bolts during the install. Worked great to take in/out of the bearings.<br>[[File:2023-12-23 16-41-04.jpg\|Rod End Bearing installation\|400px]]
	==== Page 11-9 ====		==== Page 11-9 ====
	* Step 2: ~~The instructions don't specify~~ a cotter pin for the AN310-4 castle nut~~; you almost certainly want~~ to ~~use a MS24665-132 on this~~ castle nut ~~but confirm with Van's as necessary~~.		* Step 2: Figure 2 specifies a cotter pin (MS24665-208) for the AN310-4 castle nut. Easy to miss as the line for it doesn't end near the castle nut.
	* Step 5: As a starting point, check these drawinging<br>[[File:Elev1.jpg\|600px]]<br>[[File:Elev2.jpg\|600px]]<br>The centered starting values for the trim cable nut positions are not very good and require painful iterations.<br>Goal is that both tabs go down 35 degrees, are in sync in neutral and the right tab goes up 25 degrees while the left one stays neutral in all up (see also section [[CHAPTER:_PRE_FIRST_FLIGHT]]).		* Step 5: As a starting point, check these drawinging<br>[[File:Elev1.jpg\|600px]]<br>[[File:Elev2.jpg\|600px]]<br>The centered starting values for the trim cable nut positions are not very good and require painful iterations.<br>Goal is that both tabs go down 35 degrees, are in sync in neutral and the right tab goes up 25 degrees while the left one stays neutral in all up (see also section [[CHAPTER:_PRE_FIRST_FLIGHT]]).
	* Good right cable starting values:<br>3 threads exposed at the servo clevis,<br>21.4 mm from where the green ends at the servo side to the first nut<br>40.5 mm from where the green ends at the trim tab side to the bracket end<br>1.5 mm exposed of the threads at the trim tab clevis.		* Good right cable starting values:<br>3 threads exposed at the servo clevis,<br>21.4 mm from where the green ends at the servo side to the first nut<br>40.5 mm from where the green ends at the trim tab side to the bracket end<br>1.5 mm exposed of the threads at the trim tab clevis.

Kirkbauer: /* Page 11-9 */ Added suggestion of a cotter pin for castle nut since instructions don't specify

2025-10-02T23:25:23Z

Page 11-9: Added suggestion of a cotter pin for castle nut since instructions don't specify

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:25, 2 October 2025
Line 52:		Line 52:
	When installing bolts in the rod end bearings for the elevators and rudder, I used a set of hemostats w/ some blue tape on the tip to hold the bolts during the install. Worked great to take in/out of the bearings.<br>[[File:2023-12-23 16-41-04.jpg\|Rod End Bearing installation\|400px]]		When installing bolts in the rod end bearings for the elevators and rudder, I used a set of hemostats w/ some blue tape on the tip to hold the bolts during the install. Worked great to take in/out of the bearings.<br>[[File:2023-12-23 16-41-04.jpg\|Rod End Bearing installation\|400px]]
	==== Page 11-9 ====		==== Page 11-9 ====
			* Step 2: The instructions don't specify a cotter pin for the AN310-4 castle nut; you almost certainly want to use a MS24665-132 on this castle nut but confirm with Van's as necessary.
	* Step 5: As a starting point, check these drawinging<br>[[File:Elev1.jpg\|600px]]<br>[[File:Elev2.jpg\|600px]]<br>The centered starting values for the trim cable nut positions are not very good and require painful iterations.<br>Goal is that both tabs go down 35 degrees, are in sync in neutral and the right tab goes up 25 degrees while the left one stays neutral in all up (see also section [[CHAPTER:_PRE_FIRST_FLIGHT]]).		* Step 5: As a starting point, check these drawinging<br>[[File:Elev1.jpg\|600px]]<br>[[File:Elev2.jpg\|600px]]<br>The centered starting values for the trim cable nut positions are not very good and require painful iterations.<br>Goal is that both tabs go down 35 degrees, are in sync in neutral and the right tab goes up 25 degrees while the left one stays neutral in all up (see also section [[CHAPTER:_PRE_FIRST_FLIGHT]]).
	* Good right cable starting values:<br>3 threads exposed at the servo clevis,<br>21.4 mm from where the green ends at the servo side to the first nut<br>40.5 mm from where the green ends at the trim tab side to the bracket end<br>1.5 mm exposed of the threads at the trim tab clevis.		* Good right cable starting values:<br>3 threads exposed at the servo clevis,<br>21.4 mm from where the green ends at the servo side to the first nut<br>40.5 mm from where the green ends at the trim tab side to the bracket end<br>1.5 mm exposed of the threads at the trim tab clevis.

Martin at 14:17, 19 April 2025

2025-04-19T14:17:15Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:17, 19 April 2025
Line 59:		Line 59:


	[[~~index.php?title=~~Category:Hints]]		[[Category:Hints]]

Kirkbauer: /* Before You Start */

2025-02-23T22:23:11Z

Before You Start

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:23, 23 February 2025
Line 14:		Line 14:
	* A method of temporarily attaching the elevators is quite useful; consider some extra AN3-10A bolts that you can grind down for this purpose or consider making something [https://www.rv7-factory.com/?p=930 like this].		* A method of temporarily attaching the elevators is quite useful; consider some extra AN3-10A bolts that you can grind down for this purpose or consider making something [https://www.rv7-factory.com/?p=930 like this].
	* A [https://www.aircraft-tool.com/detail?id=AE408 Rod End Bearing Tool] can be quite useful, or you can [http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/odd-ends.html#bearing%20tool create your own] (pictured below).		* A [https://www.aircraft-tool.com/detail?id=AE408 Rod End Bearing Tool] can be quite useful, or you can [http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/odd-ends.html#bearing%20tool create your own] (pictured below).
			* A set of [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/washerwrenchset12-04723.php Washer Wrenches] makes some of this section much easier (and will be useful in the future as well)

	[[File:rodendtool.jpg\|500px]]		[[File:rodendtool.jpg\|500px]]

Kirkbauer at 14:37, 23 February 2025

2025-02-23T14:37:38Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:37, 23 February 2025
Line 48:		Line 48:
	Rather than cutting up the plans as Vans suggest, take a photocopy and use that.		Rather than cutting up the plans as Vans suggest, take a photocopy and use that.

	= ~~<sub>~~Page 11-7~~</sub>~~ =		====Page 11-7====
	When installing bolts in the rod end bearings for the elevators and rudder, I used a set of hemostats w/ some blue tape on the tip to hold the bolts during the install. Worked great to take in/out of the bearings.<br>[[File:2023-12-23 16-41-04.jpg\|Rod End Bearing installation\|400px]]		When installing bolts in the rod end bearings for the elevators and rudder, I used a set of hemostats w/ some blue tape on the tip to hold the bolts during the install. Worked great to take in/out of the bearings.<br>[[File:2023-12-23 16-41-04.jpg\|Rod End Bearing installation\|400px]]
	== Page 11-9 ==		==== Page 11-9 ====
	* Step 5: As a starting point, check these drawinging<br>[[File:Elev1.jpg\|600px]]<br>[[File:Elev2.jpg\|600px]]<br>The centered starting values for the trim cable nut positions are not very good and require painful iterations.<br>Goal is that both tabs go down 35 degrees, are in sync in neutral and the right tab goes up 25 degrees while the left one stays neutral in all up (see also section [[CHAPTER:_PRE_FIRST_FLIGHT]]).		* Step 5: As a starting point, check these drawinging<br>[[File:Elev1.jpg\|600px]]<br>[[File:Elev2.jpg\|600px]]<br>The centered starting values for the trim cable nut positions are not very good and require painful iterations.<br>Goal is that both tabs go down 35 degrees, are in sync in neutral and the right tab goes up 25 degrees while the left one stays neutral in all up (see also section [[CHAPTER:_PRE_FIRST_FLIGHT]]).
	* Good right cable starting values:<br>3 threads exposed at the servo clevis,<br>21.4 mm from where the green ends at the servo side to the first nut<br>40.5 mm from where the green ends at the trim tab side to the bracket end<br>1.5 mm exposed of the threads at the trim tab clevis.		* Good right cable starting values:<br>3 threads exposed at the servo clevis,<br>21.4 mm from where the green ends at the servo side to the first nut<br>40.5 mm from where the green ends at the trim tab side to the bracket end<br>1.5 mm exposed of the threads at the trim tab clevis.

Kirkbauer at 14:37, 23 February 2025

2025-02-23T14:37:09Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:37, 23 February 2025
Line 17:		Line 17:
	[[File:rodendtool.jpg\|500px]]		[[File:rodendtool.jpg\|500px]]

	== Page 11-2 ==		=== Notes ===

			==== Page 11-2 ====
	Step 3: This can be nearly impossible to do without a few tricks. Even then it is best to get at least one helper.		Step 3: This can be nearly impossible to do without a few tricks. Even then it is best to get at least one helper.
	* The brackets on the elevators that you are attaching to in Detail B tend to be a bit too narrow.		* The brackets on the elevators that you are attaching to in Detail B tend to be a bit too narrow.
Line 28:		Line 30:
	Step 4: You can use two clamps per side instead of duct tape.		Step 4: You can use two clamps per side instead of duct tape.

	== Page 11-3 ==		==== Page 11-3 ====

	Step 5: Now this is where you use Detail C from the previous page. Make sure to fill the gaps as much as possible and fully tighten. Make sure the elevators are perfectly even before drilling. You can use flat dental floss to help get the washers in place, and/or Washer Wrenches. It's tough to get two washers in one side without some dental floss.		Step 5: Now this is where you use Detail C from the previous page. Make sure to fill the gaps as much as possible and fully tighten. Make sure the elevators are perfectly even before drilling. You can use flat dental floss to help get the washers in place, and/or Washer Wrenches. It's tough to get two washers in one side without some dental floss.
Line 34:		Line 36:
	Again, consider using two clamps per side to line the counterweight with he HS.		Again, consider using two clamps per side to line the counterweight with he HS.

	== Page 11-5 ==		==== Page 11-5 ====

	Step 3: If you need to remove the VS and HS later before transporting to your hangar, you do not need remove and prime the parts at this stage.		Step 3: If you need to remove the VS and HS later before transporting to your hangar, you do not need remove and prime the parts at this stage.

	== Page 11-6 ==		==== Page 11-6 ====
	Step 4: This step details how to mark a template to drill six holes around each end		Step 4: This step details how to mark a template to drill six holes around each end
	of the control rod.		of the control rod.

Kirkbauer at 13:37, 23 February 2025

2025-02-23T13:37:15Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:37, 23 February 2025
Line 12:		Line 12:

	* You will need some [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/permatex.php anti-seize paste]		* You will need some [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/permatex.php anti-seize paste]
	* A [https://www.aircraft-tool.com/detail?id=AE408 Rod End Bearing Tool] can be quite useful.		* A method of temporarily attaching the elevators is quite useful; consider some extra AN3-10A bolts that you can grind down for this purpose or consider making something [https://www.rv7-factory.com/?p=930 like this].
	* A method of temporarily attaching the elevators is quite useful; consider some extra AN3-10A bolts that you can grind down for this purpose or consider making something [https://www.~~rv8~~-~~hangar~~.com/~~category~~/~~empennege~~-~~log-book~~/~~elevators~~/~~page~~/2/ ~~like this~~].		* A [https://www.aircraft-tool.com/detail?id=AE408 Rod End Bearing Tool] can be quite useful, or you can [http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/odd-ends.html#bearing%20tool create your own] (pictured below).

	~~== Page 11-2 ==~~
	[[File:rodendtool.jpg\|500px]]		[[File:rodendtool.jpg\|500px]]

	~~Tool to screw in the rod end bearings. The outer ring is a cut~~-~~off fitting.~~		== Page 11-2 ==
			Step 3: This can be nearly impossible to do without a few tricks. Even then it is best to get at least one helper.
	~~And a link to Sam Buchanan's tool fabrication: http~~:~~//home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/odd-ends.html#bearing%20tool~~

	~~Looks like the picture above (not my post) uses a drilled hole at the top of the tool which is probably better since it~~ can be ~~adjusted in tight places...~~

	~~Step 3: I found this~~ nearly impossible to do without a few tricks. Even then it is best to get at least one helper.
	* The brackets on the elevators that you are attaching to in Detail B tend to be a bit too narrow.		* The brackets on the elevators that you are attaching to in Detail B tend to be a bit too narrow.
	* Make two small wooden wedges that you can insert in there to spread the bracket a bit -- ~~I used~~ the end of the wedges I cut out for the trim tab holders.		* Make two small wooden wedges that you can insert in there to spread the bracket a bit -- you can use the end of the wedges that you cut out for the trim tab holders.
	* Ruin two AN3-10A bolts by grinding down the end to make it have a smooth and narrow end.		* Ruin two AN3-10A bolts by grinding down the end to make it have a smooth and narrow end.
	* Insert both wedges, then insert the bearings into the brackets. Insert these modified bolts to attach the elevator. You may need to tilt the elevator far up or down and use ~~needlenose~~ pliers to get the bolt in there.		* Insert both wedges, then insert the bearings into the brackets. Insert these modified bolts to attach the elevator. You may need to tilt the elevator far up or down and use needle-nose pliers to get the bolt in there.
	* Nuts should still thread onto the end of these modified bolts -- that is good for now. Obviously, you'll need to use unmodified bolts later for final assembly. I actually didn't install any nut (or washer) for most of the work in this section.		* Nuts should still thread onto the end of these modified bolts -- that is good for now. Obviously, you'll need to use unmodified bolts later for final assembly. I actually didn't install any nut (or washer) for most of the work in this section.
	* Note that the sentence in this section that refers to Detail C doesn't actually apply until you attach both elevators ("Not completely filling the gap between the elevator horn and the VA-146..."). That sentence is letting you know that it is important to fill the gap complete (I found it confusing).		* Note that the sentence in this section that refers to Detail C doesn't actually apply until you attach both elevators ("Not completely filling the gap between the elevator horn and the VA-146..."). That sentence is letting you know that it is important to fill the gap complete (I found it confusing).

	Step 4: ~~I used~~ two clamps per side instead of duct tape.		Step 4: You can use two clamps per side instead of duct tape.

	== Page 11-3 ==		== Page 11-3 ==
Line 38:		Line 32:
	Step 5: Now this is where you use Detail C from the previous page. Make sure to fill the gaps as much as possible and fully tighten. Make sure the elevators are perfectly even before drilling. You can use flat dental floss to help get the washers in place, and/or Washer Wrenches. It's tough to get two washers in one side without some dental floss.		Step 5: Now this is where you use Detail C from the previous page. Make sure to fill the gaps as much as possible and fully tighten. Make sure the elevators are perfectly even before drilling. You can use flat dental floss to help get the washers in place, and/or Washer Wrenches. It's tough to get two washers in one side without some dental floss.

	Again, ~~I used~~ two clamps per side to line the counterweight with he HS.		Again, consider using two clamps per side to line the counterweight with he HS.

	== Page 11-5 ==		== Page 11-5 ==

	Step 3: ~~Because I had~~ to remove the VS and HS later before transporting to my hangar, ~~I did~~ not remove and prime the parts at this stage.		Step 3: If you need to remove the VS and HS later before transporting to your hangar, you do not need remove and prime the parts at this stage.

	== Page 11-6 ==		== Page 11-6 ==

Kirkbauer at 13:31, 23 February 2025

2025-02-23T13:31:35Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:31, 23 February 2025
Line 13:		Line 13:
	* You will need some [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/permatex.php anti-seize paste]		* You will need some [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/permatex.php anti-seize paste]
	* A [https://www.aircraft-tool.com/detail?id=AE408 Rod End Bearing Tool] can be quite useful.		* A [https://www.aircraft-tool.com/detail?id=AE408 Rod End Bearing Tool] can be quite useful.
	* A method of temporarily attaching the elevators is quite useful; consider some extra AN3-10A bolts that you can grind down for this purpose.		* A method of temporarily attaching the elevators is quite useful; consider some extra AN3-10A bolts that you can grind down for this purpose or consider making something [https://www.rv8-hangar.com/category/empennege-log-book/elevators/page/2/ like this].

	== Page 11-2 ==		== Page 11-2 ==
Line 62:		Line 62:


	[[Category:Hints]]		[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]

Kirkbauer: Added a Before You Start section

2025-02-23T01:15:01Z

Added a Before You Start section

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:15, 23 February 2025
Line 7:		Line 7:
	* Page 11-9 Step 1		* Page 11-9 Step 1
	* Section 12, Page 12-6, F-1094A Empennage Gap Covers (deburr and prime inside surface)		* Section 12, Page 12-6, F-1094A Empennage Gap Covers (deburr and prime inside surface)

			=== Before You Start ===
			Special/New Tools/Supplies

			* You will need some [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/permatex.php anti-seize paste]
			* A [https://www.aircraft-tool.com/detail?id=AE408 Rod End Bearing Tool] can be quite useful.
			* A method of temporarily attaching the elevators is quite useful; consider some extra AN3-10A bolts that you can grind down for this purpose.

	== Page 11-2 ==		== Page 11-2 ==

Martin: /* Page 11-9 */

2024-08-10T13:37:26Z

Page 11-9

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:37, 10 August 2024
Line 48:		Line 48:
	When installing bolts in the rod end bearings for the elevators and rudder, I used a set of hemostats w/ some blue tape on the tip to hold the bolts during the install. Worked great to take in/out of the bearings.<br>[[File:2023-12-23 16-41-04.jpg\|Rod End Bearing installation\|400px]]		When installing bolts in the rod end bearings for the elevators and rudder, I used a set of hemostats w/ some blue tape on the tip to hold the bolts during the install. Worked great to take in/out of the bearings.<br>[[File:2023-12-23 16-41-04.jpg\|Rod End Bearing installation\|400px]]
	== Page 11-9 ==		== Page 11-9 ==
	* Step 5: As a starting point, check these drawinging<br>[[File:Elev1.jpg\|600px]]<br>[[File:Elev2.jpg\|600px]]<br>The centered starting values for the trim cable nut positions are not very good and require painful iterations.<br>Goal is that both tabs go down 35 degrees, are in sync in neutral and the right tab goes up 25 degrees while the left one stays neutral in all up (~~See~~ also section [[CHAPTER:_PRE_FIRST_FLIGHT]]).		* Step 5: As a starting point, check these drawinging<br>[[File:Elev1.jpg\|600px]]<br>[[File:Elev2.jpg\|600px]]<br>The centered starting values for the trim cable nut positions are not very good and require painful iterations.<br>Goal is that both tabs go down 35 degrees, are in sync in neutral and the right tab goes up 25 degrees while the left one stays neutral in all up (see also section [[CHAPTER:_PRE_FIRST_FLIGHT]]).
	* Good right cable starting values:<br>3 threads exposed at the servo clevis,<br>21.4 mm from where the green ends at the servo side to the first nut<br>40.5 mm from where the green ends at the trim tab side to the bracket end<br>1.5 mm exposed of the threads at the trim tab clevis.		* Good right cable starting values:<br>3 threads exposed at the servo clevis,<br>21.4 mm from where the green ends at the servo side to the first nut<br>40.5 mm from where the green ends at the trim tab side to the bracket end<br>1.5 mm exposed of the threads at the trim tab clevis.
	* Good left cable values:<br>7 threads exposed at the servo clevis, 20.9 mm from where the green ends at the servo side to the first nut 42.6 mm from where the green ends at the trim tab side to the bracket end<br>1 mm exposed of the threads at the trim tab clevis.		* Good left cable values:<br>7 threads exposed at the servo clevis, 20.9 mm from where the green ends at the servo side to the first nut 42.6 mm from where the green ends at the trim tab side to the bracket end<br>1 mm exposed of the threads at the trim tab clevis.