View source for SECTION 9: ELEVATORS

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 9/6/2023 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/09_10.pdf 09_10.pdf]<br>Skin bonding to rear spar.
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* You will need more fuel-tank sealant for this section (see notes at the top of the [Rudder] section)
* More wooden supports need to be fabricated for this section
* You can buy a pre-made [https://cleavelandtool.com/products/special-bar-for-rv-10-empennage special bucking bar] instead of fabricating one for page 9-12)

Modifications to Consider

* Consider machined cable anchor brackets (see info for page 9-7 below)

==== Builder Videos ====
Plane Lady:
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXRYrk7uJf0 9-1 to 9-8]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TiQhEdeYOJQ 9-9 to 9-15]

==== Page 9-7 ====
* Step 4: Some builders prefer CNC machined cable anchor brackets (WD-415) over the welded ones that come with the kit (Vans did have issues with the first version of them since they only had a weld on one side of the nut). Do your research before ordering a set from iflyrv10.com. See [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7196160973838273 this FB post].<br>Consider using fasteners instead of rivets to attach WD-415. If they are riveted, you need to rotate the entire access cover to adjust the length. It's possible, but it takes to move the F-1095A trim mount bracket all the way aft to have enough cable sticking out.

==== Page 9-14 ====

Before Step 12 (riveting the trailing edge), I suggest final-drilling #30 the most rearward #40 hole on the outboard end of each elevator, for both the top and bottom skin. It's the hole that's forward of the most outboard hole in the trailing edge wedge. Then dimple it for AD4 rivets. You should do this a total of four times.

You don't have anything to final-drill into yet (unless you want to jump ahead to Section 12), but if you wait until Section 12, you won't easily be able to dimple that particular rivet. I think it is fine if you pre-drill this one hole to #30 and then wait until the fairing is in place to do the others.
[[File:Pre-Drill to -30.png|none|thumb]]


If you didn't then you can use this tool to dimple later: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/12-00612.php

==== Page 9-15 ====

* Step 6: You can use solid rivets instead of blind rivets on the bottom skin if you really want to. If you can fit your bucking bar through the lightening hole on the front spar, then you can turn the elevator and set it vertically resting on the tip rib assembly. This lets the bucking bar sit flat and gravity helps hold it in place. You can get your fingers through the lightening hole to hold it while using normal rivets.
* Step 12: do NOT alternate directions of the rivets like you did on the rudder; make sure the factory (flat) head is on the top skin of the elevators.

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Dave Corwith:

'''Section 9-16 Elevator Trim Tab Fabrication:'''

My Notes:

* Step 5 Bending the ends of the trim tabs:<br>
Make a wooden trim tab template verbatim from the templates.  Use this on the inside of the area to be bent. Now put a reverse wedge on the top so the clamps will work.  Now the outboard end is square (90 deg) so offset 1/32 as illustrated then clamp to table FIRM,  and bend with wood block.  I skipped the double sided tape as I was able to precisely clamp w/ 1/32 offset.   I used a plastic peen on the rivet gun set to 40 psi.  Bend the bottom first.  Use the plastic peen to sharpen the edge of the bend.  - Now bend the top down and match drill.<br>
When doing the other end, draw a line w/ sharpie from the angle edges.  Put the wood block in at the same angle as the line.  Clamp to the table same as other end. Clamp it FIRM.

'''Section 9-17 Step 4'''

Note: it may be easier to prime before doing this step as the access to the inside (for spraying and removing the tape) is pretty small after this step.

I used my buddy's 90 deg "shear/brake" with a 1/4-1/2" angle iron.  I slightly opened up the trim tab while gently bending to 15 degrees.  Came out ok.  Better than just doing it with duck bill pliers.

[[File:5523 Elev Trim Tab2.jpg|300px]]<br>Elevator Trim Tab Peening<br>

[[File:2022-03-28 16-10-02.jpg|300px]]

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'''Section 9-20 Safety Wire'''

* I used 0.32 stainless steel safety wire.

'''Section 9-21 Trim Tab Templates'''
* as svg files, they print correctly 1:1 with e.g. free Inkscape (https://inkscape.org/))<br>[[index.php?title=Media:Trailing edge foam ribs.svg|Trailing edge foam ribs.svg]]<br>[[index.php?title=Media:Trim tab foam ribs.svg|Trim tab foam ribs.svg]]<br>See also hints concerning printing at 1:1 scale in  [[SECTION_39:_CONTROL_SYSTEM]]

[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]