RV10 Community Wiki - User contributions [en]

SECTION 17: OUTBOARD LEADING EDGE

2026-01-29T03:44:49Z

Kirkbauer:

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Before You Start ===
Modifications to Consider

* Consider if you want to add one or two landing lights in the leading edge of your wings. This can be done later, but it is slightly easier to do it while you complete this section. Van's has the [https://store.vansaircraft.com/rv-10-leading-edge-lens-kit-ll-lens-kit-rv-10.html LL LENS KIT RV-10] that provides the materials for two landing lights. ([[SECTION OP-52: LANDING LIGHT]])

== Hints ==
* '''''Page 17-3'''''
Be sure to put some bubble wrap, blanket, towel or other padding in the bottom of the leading edge before riveting the leading edge in the cradle. A dropped bucking bar can cause serious damage to the leading edge skin. Don't ask me how I know.

* '''''Page 17-3 Step 11'''''
Consider using shorter rivets for some of the nutplates where the shop head might interfere with the spar, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8462205697233788 FB post] and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4628670810587315 this one].

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 17: OUTBOARD LEADING EDGE

2026-01-29T03:43:54Z

Kirkbauer:

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Before You Start ===
Modifications to Consider

* Consider if you want to add one or two landing lights in the leading edge of your wings. This can be done later, but it is slightly easier to do it while you complete this section. Van's has the [https://store.vansaircraft.com/rv-10-leading-edge-lens-kit-ll-lens-kit-rv-10.html LL LENS KIT RV-10] that provides the materials for two landing lights.

== Hints ==
* '''''Page 17-3'''''
Be sure to put some bubble wrap, blanket, towel or other padding in the bottom of the leading edge before riveting the leading edge in the cradle. A dropped bucking bar can cause serious damage to the leading edge skin. Don't ask me how I know.

* '''''Page 17-3 Step 11'''''
Consider using shorter rivets for some of the nutplates where the shop head might interfere with the spar, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8462205697233788 FB post] and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4628670810587315 this one].

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 17: OUTBOARD LEADING EDGE

2026-01-26T19:00:11Z

Kirkbauer:

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

== Hints ==
* '''''Page 17-3'''''
Be sure to put some bubble wrap, blanket, towel or other padding in the bottom of the leading edge before riveting the leading edge in the cradle. A dropped bucking bar can cause serious damage to the leading edge skin. Don't ask me how I know.

* '''''Page 17-3 Step 11'''''
Consider using shorter rivets for some of the nutplates where the shop head might interfere with the spar, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8462205697233788 FB post] and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4628670810587315 this one].

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 16: TOP WING SKINS

2026-01-26T18:59:36Z

Kirkbauer:

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Videos ===
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdRf3nOX0PA Plane Lady: Van's Aircraft RV-10 Build: Top Wing Skins 2/2024]

==== Special/New Tools/Supplies ====

* The plans recommend using a double-offset back rivet set for most of the rivets in this section.

== Hints ==

=== Page 16-2 ===

* Step 2: You also need to match-drill the #40 holes for the nutplates on the inboard edge. If your kit is newer you shouldn't need to match-drill any of the #40 holes except possibly the holes in common with the wing walk doublers. Note that W-1027B has two sets of two holes that are not in line with the other rivet holes but only one of these pairs is used.

* Step 5: This step can be confusing. The RV-14 plans have a better diagram of what you're trying to do. After reading a few blogs I found that you're trying to scarf the two top wing skins at the forward corner only to achieve a better fit. I marked the top of the inboard skin and bottom of the outboard skin where I needed to remove material then used a file and sanding block to remove the material. I also had to make a few passes with the Cleaveland edge-breaking tool to achieve an acceptable joint.

[[File:RV14 section 16 scarf joint.png|700px]]

* Step 6: consider using an edge-forming tool on the inboard edge of the outboard skin so that it sits more flush against the inboard skin. Remember to deburr the match-drilled #40 holes in the inboard most rib. Don't dimple any holes on the skin that are not marked for riveting on page 16-3.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 15: REAR SPAR

2026-01-26T18:59:13Z

Kirkbauer:

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/15_10.pdf 15_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Videos ===
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGAk7JUAEgA Plane Lady: Van's Aircraft RV-10 Build: Rear Spar & Service Bulletin 16-03-28]

== Hints ==

=== Page 15-2 ===
[https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4860594877394906/ (FB 3/20/2022) Aileron bracket errors[Ed: this page isn't very useful, as you have to be a member and logged into Facebook to see it)] YES, all the FB links assume you are a member of the two RV-10 groups: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10 RV-10] (4,700 members) and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/249625742733962 Van's RV-10] (420 members).

=== Page 15-3 ===
* Step 3: You are asked to draw a single line along the sloped edge of W-1013D-L/R. You ignore the top horizontal edge of W-1013D-L/R. So W-1013F-L/R will only have a corner trimmed off, you are not shortening the angle in height. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6041127229341659/ FB thread].

=== Page 15-5 ===
* Step 1: Match-drilling 4 of the W-1007B holes on the fork's arms create new holes in the flanges of the W-1010-L/R ribs as they don't align with the existing holes in the rib flanges [[File:2022-05-28 15-14-05.jpg|600x600px]] [[File:2022-05-28 15-13-41.jpg|600x600px]]
* Step 4: Note that there are no AN470AD4-7 rivets called out in Figure 2 even though it is listed in the legend.
* Read through the Service Bulletin [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-16-03-28 SB-16-03-28] to better understand the assembly (ignore the drill-out instructions).
*See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5079099468877778/ FB post 6/9/2022]

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 13: MAIN SPAR

2026-01-26T18:58:19Z

Kirkbauer:

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Before You Start ===
==== Modifications to Consider ====

* Some people decide to install extended-range fuel tanks. At least for some options ([[SkyDesigns Installation Hints]]) it will save you some time to start making the necessary modifications now.
* [https://cleavelandtool.com/products/threaded-extruded-aex-tie-down-block Consider buying two pre-tapped AEX tie-downs]

== Hints ==

==== Page 13-2 ====
''Note: steps 5-8 may be less confusing with a bit of context. You are using the spar flanges as templates for drilling the J-channel stiffeners. They will not be attached to the spar in the end. After you finish step 8 you will not need the J-channel until a later section. You can debur and prime now or later.''
* Figure 1 shows an "extra" hole on the flange. It is not used anywhere, does not need countersinking. [[File:2022-08-05 15-56-39.jpg|500x500px]]
* Step 7: Study figure 2 which points out that the long stiffeners align at the outboard end while the short stiffeners align at the inboard end.
* Step 8: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5941123952675321 FB thread] regarding how to manage the imperfect overlay of the long and short stiffener.
** For the 3 areas not to match drill: Ignore 13-2 Figure 2 (very unclear), they are clearly marked in 13-5 Figure 2.
'''Page 13-3'''

* Step 2: "Machine countersink those rib to spar flange attach rivet holes that are in line with the nutplate attach rivet holes and are inboard of the most outboard fuel tank attach nutplate."
** See [https://youtu.be/-fJUMhbf7zY?si=izdFC36iiTjpQI1A&t=685 Plane Lady's youtube video] explaining which holes (starting at 11:25)
** She diagrams the holes at [https://youtu.be/-fJUMhbf7zY?si=iNIxa28amTkntwUa&t=903 15:00 in the video]. Essentially, they are the holes between the fuel tank nut plates (forward row nut plates) that would be covered by the fuel tank flange.

==== Page 13-3 ====

* Step 9: Skip this step if either (or both) of the following are true:
** You are installing Sky Designs ER fuel tanks -- since they are two ribs wider you won't want this wire passthrough here
** You are NOT installing the standard mechanical stall switch -- this hole is for wiring for that device.

==== Page 13-4 ====
* Step 4 has you installing AN426AD4-6 rivets, but the rivets are not part of the SB kit (as of 3/2022).
**Some builders indicate that the rivets are included in the SB kits.
* Step 6, check this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6740359736085068 FB thread] on the tie down bracket and a potential gap between the skin and the bracket.

[[Category:Hints]]

SkyDesigns Installation Hints

2026-01-26T16:26:30Z

Kirkbauer: Minor addition to parts listing

See also [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vEu1YbSozM John's YouTube] 

''NOTE: make sure you have the most recent plans from SkyDesigns. For example, pages 4 and 5 of their 16-2 plans were last modified on 03-28-24.''

The ER Tanks are available for New Build and for Retro Fit, where you already have your wings and tanks built.

==== Additional parts needed for new build (not provided in Van's Wing Kit and ER kit) ====

* Two (2) W-822PP (order from Van's)
* Your wing kit from Van's came with 2x 6ft J-Channel and 2x 8ft J-Channel. The 6ft are for the tanks and the 8ft are for the outboard leading edge. As long as you have not cut these yet you can simply switch them and use the 8ft for the tanks and 6ft for the outboard leading edge. If you have already cut the 8ft pieces then you'll need to order two additional 8ft J-Channels.

==== Additional Parts that are not specified in the BOM, but that you will need for retrofit build ====
* Rivets. The number of AD41-H and AD42-H called out in the BOM are for one tank only. You need double that.
* T-1011 says 1 pack of seven. Note that the VAN's skew is for 1 each only, you need a total of 7. Make sure you get the right number.
* CAV-110 Fuel Tank Quick Drain (Need 2)
* VA-261 Fuel Strainer (Need 2)
* AN913-3D Fluid Fitting Plug (Need 2)
** This is optional, but the BOM calls for 4 VA-141, so if you make that second hole for fuel return to install the electronic fuel injection down the road, you probably need this to plug the hole for now.
** If you are NOT wanting to install a hole for the fuel return you only need 2 x VA-141. Save a little money.
* Fuel Sender
** This is optional, but if you want two fuel senders per tank, you need to add 2 more senders to you Van's order. See notes on fuel sender and fill tab further down..

==== General Build Notes ====
* Double check the pricelist and make sure the $1,400 or so for the extra needed parts from Van's is included. SkyDesigns provides the BOM, it doesn't seem 100% clear to all that the total cost all up is closer to $3,000. Not that they try to hide it. It is just easily overlooked.
* The product is not packaged / crated as well as Van's products. Make sure to check for damage when you receive it. It is easy to get a kink in the longer baffles.
* Holes are not final sized, so yeah, you will start to really appreciate the final sized holes in the Van's parts. A lot of drilling and deburring.
* It is a bigger tank, and it may be worth considering 2 fuel senders per tank. Drawings are included to do so but it is optional. According to SkyDesigns the inboard Fuel Sender will start leave the top skin at around 30.6 Gallons. So you will burn 10.7 Gallons out of the tank before it shows. The design also includes a fill tab mounted to the baffle. Filling to the tab will get you 25 Gallons (Per tank). That seems like a nice little feature considering you may need to cut back on your fuel load if you want to carry 4 people.

==== Wing Modifications (modifying already-built wings) (16-1) ====
* The provided templates work well and are really accurate. Make sure to follow the directions on drilling out rivets, even though it seems odd some are left in place. Once you get to the point of drilling new holes in the spar, it all makes sense.
* Note that you will reuse the W-1008-R/L Splice Rib and the W-1019-R/L Splice Strip. So be very careful drilling out those rivets.
* Obviously be careful and patient cutting the outboard leading edge. With a little patience, it will work out really nice just following the directions. It's a little tricky to cut the part close to the spar. You do NOT want to accidently damage the spar. You could use a 1/4 inch thick or similar steel bar that you can jam in between the spar and the skin to protect the spar when cutting (After taping up the spar etc.). That seems to work really well. You also want to invest in a good set of tin snips if you haven't done so already, and maybe watch a YouTube video or two on how to use them correctly.
* The trickiest part is probably to get the Splice Rib and Splice Strip back in place. It just seemed like it would be impossible to squeeze that back in place. Re-reading the instructions again a few times and follow exactly what it says will help get it to snap into place. Again, be careful on the instructions here. There is a rivet you need to take care of before you snap the splice rib in place. Afterwards you will not be able to get to that top rivet.
* If you have the Stall Warning installed, you have to decide if you want to keep it or not. It is mounted to the splice rib anyway, so you can just move it out with the rib. But you will also have to cut the hole in the leading edge for the tap to stick through. You can measure that out from the existing piece that already had the hole. The most work is really to cut another hole for the access panel you need for the Stall Warning. It is possible to reuse the old doubler. It seems a lot of builders drop the Stall Warning all together in general, and just rely on the [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/garminG3X-touch_11-11449.php AOA GAP 26]. Just personal preference it seems.

==== Plans Changes (building new wings) (16-2) ====

* Page 5: just a reminder to NOT rivet the three holes on the outboard segments of each spar doubler (you rivet the nutplate through the spar and doubler, just not the t three extra holes)
* Page 8, Step 2: Note that the round hole in the template goes on the top side of the leading edge. Also note that the template is used for both wings so you only drill the inboard most holes on each wing. If you don't pay attention you might end up with a few unnecessary holes in your leading edge skin!
* Page 8, Step 5: consider leaving the ribs installed and keeping the skin in the cradle to make step 8 easier. Consider leaving the template in place to help avoid over-trimming.
* Page 8, Step 8: tin snips may not be the best option. Consider using a rotary sander to get close to the trim line and then complete with the long straight file. Note that the template has "notched" corners at its end on the bottom of the template but you do not want to trim those notches. Your trim should be a straight line all the way down the skin.
* Page 8, Step 9: if you want to install Van's stall warning switch, consider doing all of the steps on 19-2 now. You can Cleco the cut off portion of the leading edge skin over the new W-1008 splice rib and match drill the two pilot holes for the stall sensor cutout.
* Page 9, Step 1: you may want to enlarge and deburr the tiedown hole before priming (see Van's 17-4 Step 1)
* Page 10, Step 2: don't forget the splice strip! It goes between the splice rib and the skin.
* Page 10, Step 7: Van's says to use AN470AD4-7 rivets for the W-1008 splice rib but those are too long since this rib is now further outboard: consider using AN470AD4-5 like you use on the outboard rib.
* Page 10, Step 8: You'll need longer rivets for the three holes in common with the doubler you previously installed and left holes open in -- consider AN426AD3-5 for those three holes.

==== Tank Build (16-3) ====
* The directions are leaning close to the RV-14 tank build directions from Vans, but some might find the original RV-10 directions working better. Especially if you have already built a set of RV-10 tanks. You can follow Van's directions for the 10, and then just keep the SkyDesigns directions on the side to make sure you don't miss anything. For example, they say to put the tank sealant on the J-Stiffener and then install it. But it is easy to end up with all the sealant sliding off the J-Stiffener. Van's directions tell you to put the sealant on the skin and then install the stiffener. That seems to work better for some. Either way it is a bit tricky to get it done right.
* The skins are not bent to final shape like the standard skins from Vans. They essentially come with a 90 degree bend, and you have to "wrap" it around the ribs yourself. Next to getting the splice rib back in, this is probably the biggest surprise to deal with. Not terribly difficult to work with, but definitely a little extra work to get the first couple of ribs in. For final assembly and riveting, starting from the inboard end, you can Cleko in the T-100C-x (nose rib) in as Rib no 1 using NO sealant, then also Cleko in ribs 4 and 5 without sealant. This will shape the tank skin pretty well to what you need and leave elbow room to seal and rivet in rib 2. Then remove rib 4, and then seal and rivet rib 3. After that you remove rib 5 and the skin is pretty much held in the correct shape and you can proceed per Van's directions without having to wrestle the skins too much. The cradle for the standard tanks also works fine for the ER tanks.
* Finally there may be a little bit of fine trimming / filing when attaching the tanks. The back edge of the tank skin can interfere with the top skin that is already attached to the wing. Not a big problem, just know you need to keep an eye out and maybe use the file a bit to get it to fit. It will be a little bit of a "tank on - tank off" exercise.
[[Category:Optional]]

SkyDesigns Installation Hints

2026-01-26T15:48:15Z

Kirkbauer: Added ER build notes

See also [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vEu1YbSozM John's YouTube] 

''NOTE: make sure you have the most recent plans from SkyDesigns. For example, pages 4 and 5 of their 16-2 plans were last modified on 03-28-24.''

The ER Tanks are available for New Build and for Retro Fit, where you already have a tank in place.

This description applies to the RV-10 Retro Fit Version, although parts of it will most likely apply to both versions.

==== Missing Parts that are not specified in the BOM, but that you will need ====
* Rivets. The number of AD41-H and AD42-H called out in the BOM are for one tank only. You need double that.
* T-1011 says 1 pack of seven. Note that the VAN's skew is for 1 each only, you need a total of 7. Make sure you get the right number.
* CAV-110 Fuel Tank Quick Drain (Need 2)
* VA-261 Fuel Strainer (Need 2)
* AN913-3D Fluid Fitting Plug (Need 2)
** This is optional, but the BOM calls for 4 VA-141, so if you make that second hole for fuel return to install the electronic fuel injection down the road, you probably need this to plug the hole for now.
** If you are NOT wanting to install a hole for the fuel return you only need 2 x VA-141. Save a little money.
* Fuel Sender
** This is optional, but if you want two fuel senders per tank, you need to add 2 more senders to you Van's order. See notes on fuel sender and fill tab further down..

==== General Build Notes ====
* Double check the pricelist and make sure the $1,400 or so for the extra needed parts from Van's is included. SkyDesigns provides the BOM, it doesn't seem 100% clear to all that the total cost all up is closer to $3,000. Not that they try to hide it. It is just easily overlooked.
* The product is not packaged / crated as well as Van's products. Make sure to check for damage when you receive it. It is easy to get a kink in the longer baffles.
* Holes are not final sized, so yeah, you will start to really appreciate the final sized holes in the Van's parts. A lot of drilling and deburring.
* It is a bigger tank, and it may be worth considering 2 fuel senders per tank. Drawings are included to do so but it is optional. According to SkyDesigns the inboard Fuel Sender will start leave the top skin at around 30.6 Gallons. So you will burn 10.7 Gallons out of the tank before it shows. The design also includes a fill tab mounted to the baffle. Filling to the tab will get you 25 Gallons (Per tank). That seems like a nice little feature considering you may need to cut back on your fuel load if you want to carry 4 people.

==== Wing Modifications (modifying already-built wings) (16-1) ====
* The provided templates work well and are really accurate. Make sure to follow the directions on drilling out rivets, even though it seems odd some are left in place. Once you get to the point of drilling new holes in the spar, it all makes sense.
* Note that you will reuse the W-1008-R/L Splice Rib and the W-1019-R/L Splice Strip. So be very careful drilling out those rivets.
* Obviously be careful and patient cutting the outboard leading edge. With a little patience, it will work out really nice just following the directions. It's a little tricky to cut the part close to the spar. You do NOT want to accidently damage the spar. You could use a 1/4 inch thick or similar steel bar that you can jam in between the spar and the skin to protect the spar when cutting (After taping up the spar etc.). That seems to work really well. You also want to invest in a good set of tin snips if you haven't done so already, and maybe watch a YouTube video or two on how to use them correctly.
* The trickiest part is probably to get the Splice Rib and Splice Strip back in place. It just seemed like it would be impossible to squeeze that back in place. Re-reading the instructions again a few times and follow exactly what it says will help get it to snap into place. Again, be careful on the instructions here. There is a rivet you need to take care of before you snap the splice rib in place. Afterwards you will not be able to get to that top rivet.
* If you have the Stall Warning installed, you have to decide if you want to keep it or not. It is mounted to the splice rib anyway, so you can just move it out with the rib. But you will also have to cut the hole in the leading edge for the tap to stick through. You can measure that out from the existing piece that already had the hole. The most work is really to cut another hole for the access panel you need for the Stall Warning. It is possible to reuse the old doubler. It seems a lot of builders drop the Stall Warning all together in general, and just rely on the [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/garminG3X-touch_11-11449.php AOA GAP 26]. Just personal preference it seems.

==== Plans Changes (building new wings) (16-2) ====

* Page 5: just a reminder to NOT rivet the three holes on the outboard segments of each spar doubler (you rivet the nutplate through the spar and doubler, just not the t three extra holes)
* Page 8, Step 2: Note that the round hole in the template goes on the top side of the leading edge. Also note that the template is used for both wings so you only drill the inboard most holes on each wing. If you don't pay attention you might end up with a few unnecessary holes in your leading edge skin!
* Page 8, Step 5: consider leaving the ribs installed and keeping the skin in the cradle to make step 8 easier. Consider leaving the template in place to help avoid over-trimming.
* Page 8, Step 8: tin snips may not be the best option. Consider using a rotary sander to get close to the trim line and then complete with the long straight file. Note that the template has "notched" corners at its end on the bottom of the template but you do not want to trim those notches. Your trim should be a straight line all the way down the skin.
* Page 8, Step 9: if you want to install Van's stall warning switch, consider doing all of the steps on 19-2 now. You can Cleco the cut off portion of the leading edge skin over the new W-1008 splice rib and match drill the two pilot holes for the stall sensor cutout.
* Page 9, Step 1: you may want to enlarge and deburr the tiedown hole before priming (see Van's 17-4 Step 1)
* Page 10, Step 2: don't forget the splice strip! It goes between the splice rib and the skin.
* Page 10, Step 7: Van's says to use AN470AD4-7 rivets for the W-1008 splice rib but those are too long since this rib is now further outboard: consider using AN470AD4-5 like you use on the outboard rib.
* Page 10, Step 8: You'll need longer rivets for the three holes in common with the doubler you previously installed and left holes open in -- consider AN426AD3-5 for those three holes.

==== Tank Build (16-3) ====
* The directions are leaning close to the RV-14 tank build directions from Vans, but some might find the original RV-10 directions working better. Especially if you have already built a set of RV-10 tanks. You can follow Van's directions for the 10, and then just keep the SkyDesigns directions on the side to make sure you don't miss anything. For example, they say to put the tank sealant on the J-Stiffener and then install it. But it is easy to end up with all the sealant sliding off the J-Stiffener. Van's directions tell you to put the sealant on the skin and then install the stiffener. That seems to work better for some. Either way it is a bit tricky to get it done right.
* The skins are not bent to final shape like the standard skins from Vans. They essentially come with a 90 degree bend, and you have to "wrap" it around the ribs yourself. Next to getting the splice rib back in, this is probably the biggest surprise to deal with. Not terribly difficult to work with, but definitely a little extra work to get the first couple of ribs in. For final assembly and riveting, starting from the inboard end, you can Cleko in the T-100C-x (nose rib) in as Rib no 1 using NO sealant, then also Cleko in ribs 4 and 5 without sealant. This will shape the tank skin pretty well to what you need and leave elbow room to seal and rivet in rib 2. Then remove rib 4, and then seal and rivet rib 3. After that you remove rib 5 and the skin is pretty much held in the correct shape and you can proceed per Van's directions without having to wrestle the skins too much. The cradle for the standard tanks also works fine for the ER tanks.
* Finally there may be a little bit of fine trimming / filing when attaching the tanks. The back edge of the tank skin can interfere with the top skin that is already attached to the wing. Not a big problem, just know you need to keep an eye out and maybe use the file a bit to get it to fit. It will be a little bit of a "tank on - tank off" exercise.
[[Category:Optional]]

SECTION OP-52: LANDING LIGHT

2026-01-26T15:19:15Z

Kirkbauer: Added some landing light tips.

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Before You Start ===
==== Special/New Tools/Supplies ====

* You need #27 and #30 plexi-bits for this section.
* You need a way to cut into the leading edge of the wing -- consider using some combination of: jigsaw, oscillating tool, cutoff wheel, Dremel tool.
* You need some double-sided tape (the plans recommend 3M Transfer Tape F9460PC VHB)
* The plans suggest you may want to paint the inside of the cutout with either gloss white or matte black paint.

==== Modifications to Consider ====

* Decide if you want to mount your light directly on the bracket or install a bracket to allow the light to be tilted up and down. You can use [https://store.vansaircraft.com/w-00016b-wing-bracket-w-00016b.html W-00016B] from Van's for this purpose. See [https://vansairforce.net/threads/rv-14-7-star-landing-lights-final-position-question.221902/ this discussion on VAF].

==== OP52-03/05 Template Pages ====
* The drawings are not printed at 1:1 scale, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7882157508571946 FB Post].
* Note that as of Jan 2026 [https://tools.pdf24.org/en/split-pdf this free tool] can quickly and easily split each page of the OP-52 PDF into two 8.5x11 pages that you can then print without scaling on your normal printer.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION OP-52: LANDING LIGHT

2026-01-25T15:45:54Z

Kirkbauer: /* Build Instruction Updates */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

==== OP52-03/05 Template Pages ====
* The drawings are not printed at 1:1 scale, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7882157508571946 FB Post].
* Note that as of Jan 2026 [https://tools.pdf24.org/en/split-pdf this free tool] can quickly and easily split each page of the OP-52 PDF into two 8.5x11 pages that you can then print without scaling on your normal printer.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 13: MAIN SPAR

2026-01-20T14:29:50Z

Kirkbauer:

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Before You Start ===
==== Modifications to Consider ====

* Some people decide to install extended-range fuel tanks. At least for some options ([[SkyDesigns Installation Hints]]) it will save you some time to start making the necessary modifications now.
* [https://cleavelandtool.com/products/threaded-extruded-aex-tie-down-block Consider buying two pre-tapped AEX tie-downs]

==== Page 13-2 ====
''Note: steps 5-8 may be less confusing with a bit of context. You are using the spar flanges as templates for drilling the J-channel stiffeners. They will not be attached to the spar in the end. After you finish step 8 you will not need the J-channel until a later section. You can debur and prime now or later.''
* Figure 1 shows an "extra" hole on the flange. It is not used anywhere, does not need countersinking. [[File:2022-08-05 15-56-39.jpg|500x500px]]
* Step 7: Study figure 2 which points out that the long stiffeners align at the outboard end while the short stiffeners align at the inboard end.
* Step 8: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5941123952675321 FB thread] regarding how to manage the imperfect overlay of the long and short stiffener.
** For the 3 areas not to match drill: Ignore 13-2 Figure 2 (very unclear), they are clearly marked in 13-5 Figure 2.
'''Page 13-3'''

* Step 2: "Machine countersink those rib to spar flange attach rivet holes that are in line with the nutplate attach rivet holes and are inboard of the most outboard fuel tank attach nutplate."
** See [https://youtu.be/-fJUMhbf7zY?si=izdFC36iiTjpQI1A&t=685 Plane Lady's youtube video] explaining which holes (starting at 11:25)
** She diagrams the holes at [https://youtu.be/-fJUMhbf7zY?si=iNIxa28amTkntwUa&t=903 15:00 in the video]. Essentially, they are the holes between the fuel tank nut plates (forward row nut plates) that would be covered by the fuel tank flange.

==== Page 13-3 ====

* Step 9: Skip this step if either (or both) of the following are true:
** You are installing Sky Designs ER fuel tanks -- since they are two ribs wider you won't want this wire passthrough here
** You are NOT installing the standard mechanical stall switch -- this hole is for wiring for that device.

==== Page 13-4 ====
* Step 4 has you installing AN426AD4-6 rivets, but the rivets are not part of the SB kit (as of 3/2022).
**Some builders indicate that the rivets are included in the SB kits.
* Step 6, check this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6740359736085068 FB thread] on the tie down bracket and a potential gap between the skin and the bracket.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 16: TOP WING SKINS

2026-01-06T00:48:28Z

Kirkbauer: Just a few notes from my completion of this section.

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Videos ===
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdRf3nOX0PA Plane Lady: Van's Aircraft RV-10 Build: Top Wing Skins 2/2024]

==== Special/New Tools/Supplies ====

* The plans recommend using a double-offset back rivet set for most of the rivets in this section.

== Page 16-2 ==

* Step 2: You also need to match-drill the #40 holes for the nutplates on the inboard edge. If your kit is newer you shouldn't need to match-drill any of the #40 holes except possibly the holes in common with the wing walk doublers. Note that W-1027B has two sets of two holes that are not in line with the other rivet holes but only one of these pairs is used.

* Step 5: This step can be confusing. The RV-14 plans have a better diagram of what you're trying to do. After reading a few blogs I found that you're trying to scarf the two top wing skins at the forward corner only to achieve a better fit. I marked the top of the inboard skin and bottom of the outboard skin where I needed to remove material then used a file and sanding block to remove the material. I also had to make a few passes with the Cleaveland edge-breaking tool to achieve an acceptable joint.

[[File:RV14 section 16 scarf joint.png|700px]]

* Step 6: consider using an edge-forming tool on the inboard edge of the outboard skin so that it sits more flush against the inboard skin. Remember to deburr the match-drilled #40 holes in the inboard most rib. Don't dimple any holes on the skin that are not marked for riveting on page 16-3.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 14: WING RIBS

2025-12-24T04:51:24Z

Kirkbauer: /* Page 14-03 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Videos ===
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-emDvk3Iq0 Plane Lady: Van's Aircraft RV 10 Build Wing Ribs]

=== Before You Start ===
==== Special/New Tools/Supplies ====

* You need a 3/8" reamer for this section.

== Hints ==
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8029357263851969 FB Post] on ribs being shipped where embossing was done very shallow or not done at all. Also, newer ribs have an additional relief cut that causes edge distance issues with a nutplate.
* There is a nutplate you will need to install in Section 20, specifically see 20-5 steps 6 and 9. It is one specific K1100-08 that will be on the bottom aft of the W-1010-R (and W-1010-L). In section 20, you use the bottom skin to match-drill the #8 hole and the #40 nutplate attach holes. But then you have to dimple that #8 hole and the flap hinge bracket's rivets are going to be in your way. Consider using the bottom skin to match-drill this one nutplate now, deburr, and dimple, before you assemble the W-1010-R. See [https://vansairforce.net/threads/what-tool-do-you-use-to-dimple-extra-tight-tolerance-on-inboard-aft-most-8-nut-plate-on-wing-rib.238207/ this VAF thread] for more info.

== Page 14-02 ==
* Step 6:
** Note that you do use the "R" W-1010 for the left wing, but all of the parts you attach to it are "-R" parts. Throughout this whole section, L and R don't refer to the left or right wing, just the handedness of the part.
** Van's may have started shipping a modified W-1010-R in 2025 and labeled W-1010-R-1 (and also W-1010-L-1). On this part the flanges have more segments than shown.
** Possibly due to the revised part, the W-1029A-L may not Cleko in place without grinding it down a little bit.
* Step 10: The W-1025B-L and W-1025B-R brackets come attached and need to be cut apart. There are three sets in total.
[[File:2025-12-01 18.04.34.jpg|none|thumb|Close-up view of 14-02 Step 6 showing how parts fit.]]

== Page 14-03 ==
* Step 1: it's easy to make these cuts using a bandsaw
* Step 2: perhaps the easiest way to make these cuts is with an oscillating tool
* Step 5: the aftmost bottom flange hole of each W-1011-L and W-1025B-R (the little tab) will need to be dimpled in the future. This may be difficult to access once this is riveted together. Consider dimpling these two holes now on each assembly. Most likely this step is deferred to allow future final-drilling for #40 but with modern kits this is already final sized.
* Step 8: Same as the note for Step 5, but the aft-most bottom hole of W-1010-R and W-1025B-L in this case.

== Page 14-04 ==
* Step 2: The second instruction says to insert the snap bushing from the inside but Figure 2 shows it inserted from the outside and that seems to be more correct as the W-1029C angle that got notched would be in the way of the snap bushing when inserted from the inside.

== Page 14-05 ==
* Several builders report callouts on page 14-05 with the wrong number of rivets to attach the ribs to the spar: Innermost rib needs 6 instead of 5 rivets, the 2 ribs inside the outmost rib need 8 instead of 4 rivets. See FB post [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansaircraftbuilders/posts/10166426530055525 3/28/2022] and VAF thread [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=135926 3/20/2016]

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 15: REAR SPAR

2025-12-24T04:47:12Z

Kirkbauer: /* Page 15-5 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/15_10.pdf 15_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Videos ===
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGAk7JUAEgA Plane Lady: Van's Aircraft RV-10 Build: Rear Spar & Service Bulletin 16-03-28]

== Page 15-2 ==
[https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4860594877394906/ (FB 3/20/2022) Aileron bracket errors[Ed: this page isn't very useful, as you have to be a member and logged into Facebook to see it)] YES, all the FB links assume you are a member of the two RV-10 groups: [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10 RV-10] (4,700 members) and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/249625742733962 Van's RV-10] (420 members).

== Page 15-3 ==
* Step 3: You are asked to draw a single line along the sloped edge of W-1013D-L/R. You ignore the top horizontal edge of W-1013D-L/R. So W-1013F-L/R will only have a corner trimmed off, you are not shortening the angle in height. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6041127229341659/ FB thread].

== Page 15-5 ==
* Step 1: Match-drilling 4 of the W-1007B holes on the fork's arms create new holes in the flanges of the W-1010-L/R ribs as they don't align with the existing holes in the rib flanges [[File:2022-05-28 15-14-05.jpg|600x600px]] [[File:2022-05-28 15-13-41.jpg|600x600px]]
* Step 4: Note that there are no AN470AD4-7 rivets called out in Figure 2 even though it is listed in the legend.
* Read through the Service Bulletin [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/sb-16-03-28 SB-16-03-28] to better understand the assembly (ignore the drill-out instructions).
*See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5079099468877778/ FB post 6/9/2022]

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 14: WING RIBS

2025-12-02T16:05:58Z

Kirkbauer: /* Page 14-02 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Videos ===
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-emDvk3Iq0 Plane Lady: Van's Aircraft RV 10 Build Wing Ribs]

=== Before You Start ===
==== Special/New Tools/Supplies ====

* You need a 3/8" reamer for this section.

== Hints ==
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8029357263851969 FB Post] on ribs being shipped where embossing was done very shallow or not done at all. Also, newer ribs have an additional relief cut that causes edge distance issues with a nutplate.
* There is a nutplate you will need to install in Section 20, specifically see 20-5 steps 6 and 9. It is one specific K1100-08 that will be on the bottom aft of the W-1010-R (and W-1010-L). In section 20, you use the bottom skin to match-drill the #8 hole and the #40 nutplate attach holes. But then you have to dimple that #8 hole and the flap hinge bracket's rivets are going to be in your way. Consider using the bottom skin to match-drill this one nutplate now, deburr, and dimple, before you assemble the W-1010-R. See [https://vansairforce.net/threads/what-tool-do-you-use-to-dimple-extra-tight-tolerance-on-inboard-aft-most-8-nut-plate-on-wing-rib.238207/ this VAF thread] for more info.

== Page 14-02 ==
* Step 6:
** Note that you do use the "R" W-1010 for the left wing, but all of the parts you attach to it are "-R" parts. Throughout this whole section, L and R don't refer to the left or right wing, just the handedness of the part.
** Van's may have started shipping a modified W-1010-R in 2025 and labeled W-1010-R-1 (and also W-1010-L-1). On this part the flanges have more segments than shown.
** Possibly due to the revised part, the W-1029A-L may not Cleko in place without grinding it down a little bit.
* Step 10: The W-1025B-L and W-1025B-R brackets come attached and need to be cut apart. There are three sets in total.
[[File:2025-12-01 18.04.34.jpg|none|thumb|Close-up view of 14-02 Step 6 showing how parts fit.]]

== Page 14-03 ==
* Step 1: it's easy to make these cuts using a bandsaw
* Step 2: perhaps the easiest way to make these cuts is with an oscillating tool

== Page 14-04 ==
* Step 2: The second instruction says to insert the snap bushing from the inside but Figure 2 shows it inserted from the outside and that seems to be more correct as the W-1029C angle that got notched would be in the way of the snap bushing when inserted from the inside.

== Page 14-05 ==
* Several builders report callouts on page 14-05 with the wrong number of rivets to attach the ribs to the spar: Innermost rib needs 6 instead of 5 rivets, the 2 ribs inside the outmost rib need 8 instead of 4 rivets. See FB post [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansaircraftbuilders/posts/10166426530055525 3/28/2022] and VAF thread [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=135926 3/20/2016]

[[Category:Hints]]

File:2025-12-01 18.04.34.jpg

2025-12-02T16:05:31Z

Kirkbauer:

Close-up view of 14-02 Step 6 showing how parts fit.

SECTION 14: WING RIBS

2025-12-02T16:04:15Z

Kirkbauer: Added some tips for pages 2 and 3

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Videos ===
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-emDvk3Iq0 Plane Lady: Van's Aircraft RV 10 Build Wing Ribs]

=== Before You Start ===
==== Special/New Tools/Supplies ====

* You need a 3/8" reamer for this section.

== Hints ==
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8029357263851969 FB Post] on ribs being shipped where embossing was done very shallow or not done at all. Also, newer ribs have an additional relief cut that causes edge distance issues with a nutplate.
* There is a nutplate you will need to install in Section 20, specifically see 20-5 steps 6 and 9. It is one specific K1100-08 that will be on the bottom aft of the W-1010-R (and W-1010-L). In section 20, you use the bottom skin to match-drill the #8 hole and the #40 nutplate attach holes. But then you have to dimple that #8 hole and the flap hinge bracket's rivets are going to be in your way. Consider using the bottom skin to match-drill this one nutplate now, deburr, and dimple, before you assemble the W-1010-R. See [https://vansairforce.net/threads/what-tool-do-you-use-to-dimple-extra-tight-tolerance-on-inboard-aft-most-8-nut-plate-on-wing-rib.238207/ this VAF thread] for more info.

== Page 14-02 ==
* Step 6:
** Note that you do use the "R" W-1010 for the left wing, but all of the parts you attach to it are "-R" parts. Throughout this whole section, L and R don't refer to the left or right wing, just the handedness of the part.
** Van's may have started shipping a modified W-1010-R in 2025 and labeled W-1010-R-1 (and also W-1010-L-1). On this part the flanges have more segments than shown.
** Possibly due to the revised part, the W-1029A-L may not Cleko in place without grinding it down a little bit.
* Step 10: The W-1025B-L and W-1025B-R brackets come attached and need to be cut apart. There are three sets in total.

== Page 14-03 ==
* Step 1: it's easy to make these cuts using a bandsaw
* Step 2: perhaps the easiest way to make these cuts is with an oscillating tool

== Page 14-04 ==
* Step 2: The second instruction says to insert the snap bushing from the inside but Figure 2 shows it inserted from the outside and that seems to be more correct as the W-1029C angle that got notched would be in the way of the snap bushing when inserted from the inside.

== Page 14-05 ==
* Several builders report callouts on page 14-05 with the wrong number of rivets to attach the ribs to the spar: Innermost rib needs 6 instead of 5 rivets, the 2 ribs inside the outmost rib need 8 instead of 4 rivets. See FB post [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansaircraftbuilders/posts/10166426530055525 3/28/2022] and VAF thread [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=135926 3/20/2016]

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 14: WING RIBS

2025-11-21T05:10:05Z

Kirkbauer:

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Videos ===
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-emDvk3Iq0 Plane Lady: Van's Aircraft RV 10 Build Wing Ribs]

== Hints ==
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8029357263851969 FB Post] on ribs being shipped where embossing was done very shallow or not done at all. Also, newer ribs have an additional relief cut that causes edge distance issues with a nutplate.
* There is a nutplate you will need to install in Section 20, specifically see 20-5 steps 6 and 9. It is one specific K1100-08 that will be on the bottom aft of the W-1010-R (and W-1010-L). In section 20, you use the bottom skin to match-drill the #8 hole and the #40 nutplate attach holes. But then you have to dimple that #8 hole and the flap hinge bracket's rivets are going to be in your way. Consider using the bottom skin to match-drill this one nutplate now, deburr, and dimple, before you assemble the W-1010-R. See [https://vansairforce.net/threads/what-tool-do-you-use-to-dimple-extra-tight-tolerance-on-inboard-aft-most-8-nut-plate-on-wing-rib.238207/ this VAF thread] for more info.

== Page 14-04 ==
* Step 2: The second instruction says to insert the snap bushing from the inside but Figure 2 shows it inserted from the outside and that seems to be more correct as the W-1029C angle that got notched would be in the way of the snap bushing when inserted from the inside.

== Page 14-05 ==
* Several builders report callouts on page 14-05 with the wrong number of rivets to attach the ribs to the spar: Innermost rib needs 6 instead of 5 rivets, the 2 ribs inside the outmost rib need 8 instead of 4 rivets. See FB post [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansaircraftbuilders/posts/10166426530055525 3/28/2022] and VAF thread [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=135926 3/20/2016]

[[Category:Hints]]

SkyDesigns Installation Hints

2025-11-21T01:11:29Z

Kirkbauer:

See also [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vEu1YbSozM John's YouTube] 

Construction Notes (Based on SkyDesigns drawings and BOM's at the time of purchase around 10/01/2022)

''NOTE: make sure you have the most recent plans from SkyDesigns. For example, pages 4 and 5 of their 16-2 plans were last modified on 03-28-24.''

The ER Tanks are available for New Build and for Retro Fit, where you already have a tank in place.

This description applies to the RV-10 Retro Fit Version, although parts of it will most likely apply to both versions.

* Missing Parts that are not specified in the BOM, but that you will need.
** Rivets. The number of AD41-H and AD42-H called out in the BOM are for one tank only. You need double that.
** T-1011 says 1 pack of seven. Note that the VAN's skew is for 1 each only, you need a total of 7. Make sure you get the right number.
** CAV-110 Fuel Tank Quick Drain (Need 2)
** VA-261 Fuel Strainer (Need 2)
** AN913-3D Fluid Fitting Plug (Need 2)
*** This is optional, but the BOM calls for 4 VA-141, so if you make that second hole for fuel return to install the electronic fuel injection down the road, you probably need this to plug the hole for now.
*** If you are NOT wanting to install a hole for the fuel return you only need 2 x VA-141. Save a little money.
** Fuel Sender
*** This is optional, but if you want two fuel senders per tank, you need to add 2 more senders to you Van's order. See notes on fuel sender and fill tab further down..
* Build Notes
** Double check the pricelist and make sure the $1,400 or so for the extra needed parts from Van's is included. SkyDesigns provides the BOM, it doesn't seem 100% clear to all that the total cost all up is closer to $3,000. Not that they try to hide it. It is just easily overlooked.
** The product is not packaged / crated as well as Van's products. Make sure to check for damage when you receive it. It is easy to get a kink in the longer baffles.
** Holes are not final sized, so yeah, you will start to really appreciate the final sized holes in the Van's parts. A lot of drilling and deburring.
** It is a bigger tank, and it may be worth considering 2 fuel senders per tank. Drawings are included to do so but it is optional. According to SkyDesigns the inboard Fuel Sender will start leave the top skin at around 30.6 Gallons. So you will burn 10.7 Gallons out of the tank before it shows. The design also includes a fill tab mounted to the baffle. Filling to the tab will get you 25 Gallons (Per tank). That seems like a nice little feature considering you may need to cut back on your fuel load if you want to carry 4 people.
** The directions are leaning close to the RV-14 tank build directions from Vans, but some might find the original RV-10 directions working better. Especially if you have already built a set of RV-10 tanks. You can follow Van's directions for the 10, and then just keep the SkyDesigns directions on the side to make sure you don't miss anything. For example, they say to put the tank sealant on the J-Stiffener and then install it. But it is easy to end up with all the sealant sliding off the J-Stiffener. Van's directions tell you to put the sealant on the skin and then install the stiffener. That seems to work better for some. Either way it is a bit tricky to get it done right.
** The skins are not bent to final shape like the standard skins from Vans. They essentially come with a 90 degree bend, and you have to "wrap" it around the ribs yourself. Next to getting the splice rib back in, this is probably the biggest surprise to deal with. Not terribly difficult to work with, but definitely a little extra work to get the first couple of ribs in. For final assembly and riveting, starting from the inboard end, you can Cleko in the T-100C-x (nose rib) in as Rib no 1 using NO sealant, then also Cleko in ribs 4 and 5 without sealant. This will shape the tank skin pretty well to what you need and leave elbow room to seal and rivet in rib 2. Then remove rib 4, and then seal and rivet rib 3. After that you remove rib 5 and the skin is pretty much held in the correct shape and you can proceed per Van's directions without having to wrestle the skins too much. The cradle for the standard tanks also works fine for the ER tanks.
** The provided templates work well and are really accurate. Make sure to follow the directions on drilling out rivets, even though it seems odd some are left in place. Once you get to the point of drilling new holes in the spar, it all makes sense.
** Note that you will reuse the W-1008-R/L Splice Rib and the W-1019-R/L Splice Strip. So be very careful drilling out those rivets.
** Obviously be careful and patient cutting the outboard leading edge. With a little patience, it will work out really nice just following the directions. It's a little tricky to cut the part close to the spar. You do NOT want to accidently damage the spar. You could use a 1/4 inch thick or similar steel bar that you can jam in between the spar and the skin to protect the spar when cutting (After taping up the spar etc.). That seems to work really well. You also want to invest in a good set of tin snips if you haven't done so already, and maybe watch a YouTube video or two on how to use them correctly.
** The trickiest part is probably to get the Splice Rib and Splice Strip back in place. It just seemed like it would be impossible to squeeze that back in place. Re-reading the instructions again a few times and follow exactly what it says will help get it to snap into place. Again, be careful on the instructions here. There is a rivet you need to take care of before you snap the splice rib in place. Afterwards you will not be able to get to that top rivet.
** If you have the Stall Warning installed, you have to decide if you want to keep it or not. It is mounted to the splice rib anyway, so you can just move it out with the rib. But you will also have to cut the hole in the leading edge for the tap to stick through. You can measure that out from the existing piece that already had the hole. The most work is really to cut another hole for the access panel you need for the Stall Warning. It is possible to reuse the old dobler. It seems a lot of builders drop the Stall Warning all together in general, and just rely on the [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/garminG3X-touch_11-11449.php AOA GAP 26]. Just personal preference it seems.
** Finally there may be a little bit of fine trimming / filing when attaching the tanks. The back edge of the tank skin can interfere with the top skin that is already attached to the wing. Not a big problem, just know you need to keep an eye out and maybe use the file a bit to get it to fit. It will be a little bit of a "tank on - tank off" exercise.

[[Category:Optional]]

SECTION 13: MAIN SPAR

2025-11-21T01:09:18Z

Kirkbauer: Added a few extra wing spar tips

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Before You Start ===
==== Modifications to Consider ====

* Some people decide to install extended-range fuel tanks. At least for some options ([[SkyDesigns Installation Hints]]) it will save you some time to start making the necessary modifications now.
* [https://cleavelandtool.com/products/threaded-extruded-aex-tie-down-block Consider buying two pre-tapped AEX tie-downs]

==== Page 13-2 ====
''Note: steps 5-8 may be less confusing with a bit of context. You are using the spar flanges as templates for drilling the J-channel stiffeners. They will not be attached to the spar in the end. After you finish step 8 you will not need the J-channel until a later section. You can debur and prime now or later.''
* Figure 1 shows an "extra" hole on the flange. It is not used anywhere, does not need countersinking. [[File:2022-08-05 15-56-39.jpg|500x500px]]
* Step 7: Study figure 2 which points out that the long stiffeners align at the outboard end while the short stiffeners align at the inboard end.
* Step 8: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5941123952675321 FB thread] regarding how to manage the imperfect overlay of the long and short stiffener.
** For the 3 areas not to match drill: Ignore 13-2 Figure 2 (very unclear), they are clearly marked in 13-5 Figure 2.
'''Page 13-3'''

* Step 2: "Machine countersink those rib to spar flange attach rivet holes that are in line with the nutplate attach rivet holes and are inboard of the most outboard fuel tank attach nutplate."
** See [https://youtu.be/-fJUMhbf7zY?si=izdFC36iiTjpQI1A&t=685 Plane Lady's youtube video] explaining which holes (starting at 11:25)
** She diagrams the holes at [https://youtu.be/-fJUMhbf7zY?si=iNIxa28amTkntwUa&t=903 15:00 in the video]. Essentially, they are the holes between the fuel tank nut plates (forward row nut plates) that would be covered by the fuel tank flange.

==== Page 13-4 ====
* Step 4 has you installing AN426AD4-6 rivets, but the rivets are not part of the SB kit (as of 3/2022).
**Some builders indicate that the rivets are included in the SB kits.
* Step 6, check this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6740359736085068 FB thread] on the tie down bracket and a potential gap between the skin and the bracket.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 10: TAILCONE

2025-11-21T01:08:07Z

Kirkbauer:

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/10_10.pdf 10_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Before You Start ===
==== Special/New Tools/Supplies ====

* Make sure you have enough clecos. During the initial assembly, you will use about 650 clecos.
* Make sure you have a very strong 3/8" tap and handle because it can be very tough to tap the AEX tie-downs (or consider purchasing [https://cleavelandtool.com/products/threaded-extruded-aex-tie-down-block one that has already been tapped])

==== Modifications to Consider ====

This is the first step in the build process where you may want to start thinking ahead about modifications which may be easier to do during this section rather than later. Not everything in this list is required, it is not comprehensive, and it is not impossible to do later.

* One or two static ports for your pitot-static system
* Additional NACA vents if you plan to install an overhead console (Aerosport) with air vents. Additional NACA vents aren't needed if you want AC-only air coming out of the overhead console vents.
* NACA vent controller (Aerosport). Not needed if you want AC-only air coming out of the overhead console vents.
* Battery charging connectors or ground power connector outlets
* Battery vents if installing a battery with vents
* Modifications to the battery tray if you plan to install alternate contactor(s), a battery bus, etc.
* Autopilot pitch and yaw servo brackets
** If you intend on installing a yaw damper as part of your autopilot package, you are encouraged to think about the mounting hardware for it while you are building the tailcone, as access is much easier NOW than later. See this page for more details: [[Yaw_Damper_Servo]]
* Mounting bracket for your magnetometer if you plan to install in the tailcone
** [https://www.steinair.com/product/gmu-11-fuselage-mount/ GMU11 top of tailcone]
** [https://www.steinair.com/product/gmu-11-aft-deck-mount/ GMU11 aft deck]
** [https://www.steinair.com/product/gmu-22-fuselage-mount/ GMU22 top of tailcone]
* Mounting bracket for your ELT
** [https://store.vansaircraft.com/whelen-pwr-mount-10-l-strobe-supply-mount-whelen-pwr-mount-10-l.html Left] or [https://store.vansaircraft.com/whelen-pwr-mount-10-r-strobe-supply-mount-whelen-pwr-mount-10-r.html Right]
* Mounting bracket for any other avionics that you want in the tailcone
* VOR antenna if desired under the tailcone or top of VS
** A coax for the VOR antenna -- route a 25ft coax with a male BNC connector to the base of the vertical stabilizer. 25 feet of cable allows an unbroken run all the way to the control panel; each connector results in a drop in signal strength, so the minimum should be used.
* The tie down ring and the jam nut is not included in the kit. Consider those sources:
** [https://www.cleavelandtool.com/collections/all/products/stainless-tie-down-ring Cleaveland Tie Down]
** [https://marineboltsupply.com/Type-18-8-and-Type-316-Stainless-Steel-Nuts/Type-18-8-and-Type-316-Stainless-Steel-Jam-Thin-Nuts/Type-316-Stainless-Steel-Hex-Jam-Thin-Nuts/Type-316-Stainless-Steel-Size-3-8-16-Hex-Jam-Nuts 3/8-16 Stainless Jam Nut at Marine Bolt Supply]
* Consider rudder cables before completing the tailcone. It is much easier to do before the top skin is riveted than to climb inside later.
** Complete section 10 up to page 10-21 step 4. Do not rivet the Aft Deck assembly (F-1014) or the Top Skin (F-1075) until you are happy with the wiring.
** If you don't have the fuselage kit yet, you can purchase the rudder cables (F-1053) from Vans for about $110. The reduction in future frustration might be worth the cost!
**Follow the instructions in section 38 (page 38-8) on how to install the rudder cables. Install the cables through F-1008, and coil them for later between F-1007 & F-1008.
* You may need to wire three (or more) systems:
** The tail light -- refer to OP-56 for instructions on how to route the wire to the rudder. If you have ZipTips (see [[Wing Tips|Wing Tips)]], the tail light is optional.

=== Notes ===

==== Page 10-2 ====
Step 1 - tapping this can be quite difficult and may require a top-quality tap and die set. Consider purchasing a [https://cleavelandtool.com/collections/accessories/products/threaded-extruded-aex-tie-down-block pre-tapped version].

Step 3 - Consider also using the center line on the back of the AEX tie down as an additional reference to center the AEX to the centerline of the F-1012A bulkhead. It can be difficult to accurately center the marked lines in the exact centers of the holes as referenced in the plans.

- 5/28/22 I did it per the plans, drawing the two lines exactly. Now use a cleco CLAMP on the bottom (threaded end) and a wood C clamp on the top gently holding it in place while you drill the 4 holes. A little confusing in the plans it calls to drill the 3/32 out w/ a # 30 drill. Correct. It's a 3/32 hole oversize it to #30 so it will receive a -4 (4/32) rivet down line. See page 10-18 for rivet size. Drill the 4 #30 holes first and cleco as you go. Then drill the 3/16 holes also clecoing if you have 3/16 clecos. [[File:2022-05-28 15-36-10.jpg|400x400px|Tie down assembly]] Tie down assembly

Step 1: 5/28/22 Taping the Tie down. Note: The hole should first be drilled out to 5/16 to receive a 3/8-16 tap. The hole is undersized by Vans. A trick a machinist taught me, put the tap in your drill press and center your piece under while turning the tap BY HAND. DON'T turn on the drill! It's just a jig to keep things straight while you start the tap. Once you get a couple turns on the tap, take it out, put in your vice and finish. [[File:Sec 10-2 Tap drill.jpg|400x400px|Tap drilling]] Tap drilling

Step 5: Those nut plates will be used to hold the rudder cable sleeves with the help of an Adel clamp. It is then very difficult to start the AN3-4 bolt into those nut plates because the area is very hard to reach. Now is a good time to test run the bolts.

==== Page 10-4 ====
Step 1 - Double check the length and make sure you center the F-1010A on the F-1010 bulkhead to avoid any edge distance issues later on when match drilling the top deck to the longerons.

==== Page 10-5 ====
* Step 1 The angle in figure one is shown upside down in regards to its later mounting position. The angle has a vertical part that gets trimmed 5/32 on both sides and it has a forward pointing horizontal part that gets wider towards the front where it reaches the full width of 10 3/4.
* Step 4 Consider making a jig to make drawing the center line more consistent and efficient. YouTube video: https://youtu.be/yC1kzDO_Gg8?t=590
* Step 4 Carpenters Scribe modified for a sharpie. Drill 3/8 hole in end. Keep it parallel. Works great easy to make. See image: [[File:SharpieGuide1.jpg|400x400px|Carpenters Scribe Modified for sharpie]] Carpenters Scribe Modified for sharpie

* When cutting the stiffeners to length, consider making them slightly longer than Vans recommends in the instructions by approx 1/8 inch. If cut too short, you may end up with edge distance issues when match drilling the end rivet holes. The length can then be adjusted if desired after first fit up.

* Don't assume the stiffeners are exactly 8 foot long and just measure how much to cut off, measure across the entire length to mark the cut-off line.

==== Page 10-8 ====
* Step 1: For hints, see this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=193058 VAF thread]

==== Page 10-8 ====
I had to buy a large clamp that could fit across the width of the F-1014 aft deck in order to align the longerons correctly.

==== Page 10-13 ====
There is a service bulletin (https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/sb18-03-30.pdf ) for the elevator stop (F-1012D). As mentioned in this YouTube build video (https://youtu.be/g5ONB4e28TI ), Van's did send the required material to create the new part with the rest of the kit (subkit #5), but did not update the plans to reflect the service bulletin.

==== Page 10-14 ====
See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9146740468780304/ FB thread] on potential edge distance issues with the shoulder harness mounting holes.

==== Page 10-15 ====
Step 7 instructions only apply to the web of the F-1012B Bulkhead. Dimpling of the flanges of this part is done in step 4 on page 10-16 which instructs to not dimple the topmost hole.

[[File:Screen Shot 2022-04-25 at 8.50.35 PM.png|500x500px]]

==== Page 10-18 ====
Step 1: consider riveting the F-1055-L/R Rudder Stop Skin Stiffeners now. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7944374382350258 FB Thread].

==== Page 10-20 ====
If working alone, you can get away with riveting the bottom skin stiffeners to the bottom skin before clecoing the side skins on -- and you can back-rivet these.

Step 2 - If you plan to install the BRS parachute, don't rivet the forward 2 holes of the F-1047F-L/R stiffeners as the rear attachment external plate is using same rivet holes.

Step 7 - The outer rivets are very hard to get to. Plans call for AN470AD4-4 rivets, but you may consider using CR3213-4-2 CherryMax rivets (confirmed with builder support that this should be okay). Measure your parts to ensure proper rivet length. You may have to modify your hand riveter to fit within the opening. YouTube video: https://youtu.be/cvwDYFGeK6s?t=614

Step 7 - Alternatively, you can rivet the stiffeners to the rudder stop brace before inserting the F-1012 assembly in for final riveting.

==== Page 10-21 ====
Step 4 - If you plan to install additional air intakes for ventilation (e.g. an overhead console with air vents), you should purchase additional NACA vents from Van's (part SV-1) or at least find a good template and consider cutting the holes for these prior to riveting the side skins on to the tailcone.

Step 5 - If you already have the rudder cables, consider installing them along with rudder fairings (optional) at this point before riveting the aft deck. This will be MUCH easier to do now as some builders have reported spending several hours to do this step later. Instructions for installing the aft portion of the rudder cables are on page 38-8 (steps 1-4 is all you need to do at this point). If you also want to cover the plastic tubes on the side of the tailcone, see [[Rudder_Cable_Fairings]].

==== Page 10-23 ====
Step 2 -- before Cleco'ing and riveting the aft top skin, consider doing a few other things first
* Consider Page 10-23, Steps 3-5; it will be slightly easier without the skin in the way
* If installing an autopilot yaw servo, consider prepping and riveting that support bracket after completing Page 10-23 Step 5.
* Consider Page 10-24 Step 3; If you can safely install the F-636 brackets with the associated nuts and bolts before this step it will save you the hassle of climbing into the tailcone later. Note: one of the 3 bolts (the one right in front of a rivet) will be in the way when bucking rivets for attaching the top skin.
* If you already have your finishing kit, consider attaching the rear end of the rear seatbelt cable before riveting the tailcone skins.

Step 4 - Check whether the AN3-5A bolts to hold down the Bell Crank Angles are in fact the proper bolts. Builders are reporting that those are too long. Note: In general, no more than 3 washers can be stacked to compensate for too long bolts.

Step 5 - This is the ideal time to prep and temporarily install the autopilot pitch and/or yaw servo brackets. The entire F-1035 top plate needs to come off later when you thread in the two push-rods through this opening. Don't mount the servos yet, just the pitch/yaw damper servo brackets.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 13: MAIN SPAR

2025-11-21T00:59:15Z

Kirkbauer:

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Before You Start ===
==== Modifications to Consider ====

* Some people decide to install extended-range fuel tanks.

==== Page 13-2 ====
* Figure 1 shows an "extra" hole on the flange. It is not used anywhere, does not need countersinking. [[File:2022-08-05 15-56-39.jpg|500x500px]]
* Step 7: Study figure 2 which points out that the long stiffeners align at the outboard end while the short stiffeners align at the inboard end.
* Step 8: See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5941123952675321 FB thread] regarding how to manage the imperfect overlay of the long and short stiffener.
** For the 3 areas not to match drill: Ignore 13-2 Figure 2 (very unclear), they are clearly marked in 13-5 Figure 2.
'''Page 13-3'''

* Step 2: "Machine countersink those rib to spar flange attach rivet holes that are in line with the nutplate attach rivet holes and are inboard of the most outboard fuel tank attach nutplate."
** See [https://youtu.be/-fJUMhbf7zY?si=izdFC36iiTjpQI1A&t=685 Plane Lady's youtube video] explaining which holes (starting at 11:25)
** She diagrams the holes at [https://youtu.be/-fJUMhbf7zY?si=iNIxa28amTkntwUa&t=903 15:00 in the video]. Essentially, they are the holes between the fuel tank nut plates (forward row nut plates) that would be covered by the fuel tank flange.

==== Page 13-4 ====
* Step 4 has you installing AN426AD4-6 rivets, but the rivets are not part of the SB kit (as of 3/2022).
**Some builders indicate that the rivets are included in the SB kits.
* Step 6, check this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6740359736085068 FB thread] on the tie down bracket and a potential gap between the skin and the bracket.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 46: ENGINE MOUNT & LANDING GEAR

2025-11-18T16:08:27Z

Kirkbauer: /* Before You Start */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/06/20 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/46_10.pdf 46_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* You will need Aeroshell #5 grease for the wheel bearings; even if you use other types of wheels, you will need grease for this section in general.
* You will need either a 0.311 drill bit or reamer for drilling the main gear legs mounts
* You *might* need a 3/8" reamer for the nose wheel axle
* Some people consider lock nuts to be one-time use so consider using other hardware to test-fit and/or ordering some extra lock nuts especially if you have to re-work anything as you go (MS21045-6, AN365-428, AN365-524, etc).
* If you have Beringer main wheels, the cotter pins can be difficult to find. Consider using a similar part during build if not for permanent attachment. You'll find that AN381-4-40 / MS24665-379 will fit just fine.

Modifications to Consider

* There are other wheel/brake options that are offered by Van's and third-parties. If you go with Beringer, [https://www.airplane.build/2020/12/main-landing-gear-installed.html this blog will be helpful].
* Consider [https://flyboyaccessories.com/products/rv-jack-points-rv-10 jack points] so that you can change a tire with a standard car jack. Put these on after the brake assembly is on the main gear struts (you may not be able to get the brake assembly onto the strut with these in place).
* If you are using tubeless tires, Beringer makes a tire-pressure monitoring system similar to what you find on modern automobiles. Note that it is certified and fairly expensive, though.
* If you are using stock wheels, consider upgrading to permanently-sealed bearings.

=== Notes ===

==== Page 46-02 ====
* If you are planning on using [[Skybolt Hints|Skybolt]] camlocks instead of hinge pins around the firewall, consider laying out those brackets after temporarily installing the engine mount (Step 1) to make sure you don't have interference with the engine mount and the fasteners. Then, after removing the engine mount (Step 2) it will be easier to rivet those in place.
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7827327290721635 FB thread] on how to check you have nuts with sufficient friction.
* Good results for the initial alignment can be achieved by centering the engine mount first using rubber embedded dowels. See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/2115940268527061/ this FB thread] [[File:Screen Shot 2023-04-24 at 6.46.40 AM.png|200x200px]] [[File:Screen Shot 2023-04-24 at 2.50.50 PM.png|200x200px]]
* Parts
**Steel dowels: McMaster 8893K178 Tight-Tolerance Oil-Hardening O1 Tool Steel Rod, 0.1875" Diameter, 3 Feet Long. Cut six 1 1/3 inch pieces off and chamfer.
**Rubber fuel line: Aircraft Spruce Part# 05-03597, OD 0.5 inch, ID 0.25 in, cut 6 pieces, 7/8 inch
** Silicone Tubing: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RYD6G5K Amazon], OD 0.25 in, ID 5/32 in, cut 6 pieces, 7/8 inch
**.5 OD / .257 ID Nylon spacers to guide drilling (fits 1/4 inch drill bit, enlarge as you step up the hole to 3/8): [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-x-1-in-x-257-I-D-Nylon-Spacer-815018/204276572 Home Depot]
*Insert the silicone hose into the rubber hose.
*Insert the dowel into the silicone hose (tap it in using a hammer).
*Grease the outer side of the rubber hose before inserting the dowels into the six engine mount attach tubes from the front.
*Use a 3/16 drill and run through the 6 engine mount holes. Ensure the 3/16 dowels go in.
*Mount the engine mount. Some of the dowels will be pushed back, try gently to push them into the firewall holes using light taps.
*Remove one dowel at a time (using a punch from the inside, then grab it with nose pliers), drill up the hole using modified Nylon spacers to center the drill, and secure with a bolt. The drill steps are: [[File:2023-04-27 19-52-27.jpg|400x400px]]
** 3/16 (0.1875) original hole
** 5/16 (0.3125) Note: a 1/4 drill bit will bind / break off, better to do larger steps
** 23/64 (0.359375) Note: recommended hole size for reamer to finish up
** 3/8 reamer (0.375), e.g. [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076DMH4BF at Amazon]
* Note: Don't waste the single-use metal stop nuts yet, instead use AN6 castle nuts (from the kit, not used yet) or 3/8-24 hardware store nuts for the drill process.
* Note: AN6 bolts may vary in diameter between .371 and .374. If you ream the hole to .375, there might be some intentional play. Some 3/8 drill bits are only .371 which may lead to binding if you don't ream to .375.
* Note: Some of the 1/2 inch attachment tubes of the engine mount have reduced diameter spots inside from welding. The bushings may bind there. You might have to grind the bushing.
* Note: If you have issues getting the fuel hose out of the hole, use a hook or awl and pierce the hose and pull out. If you have issues getting the nylon bushings out, consider using a screw extractor, e.g. [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09W5PW588 Screw Extractor Set]
* Note: Washer-00017 is raw steel and will corrode if not coated or greased.

====Page 46-04====
* Step 1: You need to remove the powder coating from the areas that need to engage with the main gear weldings, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8370057203115305 FB post].
====Page 46-06====
*Don't forget to grease the bushings on their outside.
* Tighten the castle nuts to spec, the bushing itself must not rotate. Check that the parts riding on the outside of the bushings still rotate after torquing the castle nuts. If not, see figure 1, it says to remove some of the powder coating if necessary.
* Check for any play in the horizontal bolt / bushing setup, also see this [https://www.facebook.com/reel/1723270615230761 FB thread].

====Page 46-07====
* If you prime the fork, the AN6-65A bolt may not fit, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/24515968341430934 FB thread]. If you prime, probably best to tape up the hole before priming.
[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 46: ENGINE MOUNT & LANDING GEAR

2025-11-17T18:31:40Z

Kirkbauer: /* Before You Start */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/06/20 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/46_10.pdf 46_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* You will need Aeroshell #5 grease for the wheel bearings; even if you use other types of wheels, you will need grease for this section in general.
* You will need either a 0.311 drill bit or reamer for drilling the main gear legs mounts
* You *might* need a 3/8" reamer for the nose wheel axle
* Some people consider lock nuts to be one-time use so consider using other hardware to test-fit and/or ordering some extra lock nuts especially if you have to re-work anything as you go (MS21045-6, AN365-428, AN365-524, etc).
* If you have Beringer main wheels, the cotter pins can be difficult to find. Consider using a similar part during build if not for permanent attachment. You'll find that AN381-4-40 / MS24665-379 will fit just fine.

Modifications to Consider

* There are other wheel/brake options that are offered by Van's and third-parties. If you go with Beringer, [https://www.airplane.build/2020/12/main-landing-gear-installed.html this blog will be helpful].
* Consider [https://flyboyaccessories.com/products/rv-jack-points-rv-10 jack points] so that you can change a tire with a standard car jack. Put these on after the brake assembly is on the main gear struts (you may not be able to get the brake assembly onto the strut with these in place).
* If you are using tubeless tires, Beringer makes a tire-pressure monitoring system similar to what you find on modern automobiles. Note that it is certified and fairly expensive, though.

=== Notes ===

==== Page 46-02 ====
* If you are planning on using [[Skybolt Hints|Skybolt]] camlocks instead of hinge pins around the firewall, consider laying out those brackets after temporarily installing the engine mount (Step 1) to make sure you don't have interference with the engine mount and the fasteners. Then, after removing the engine mount (Step 2) it will be easier to rivet those in place.
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7827327290721635 FB thread] on how to check you have nuts with sufficient friction.
* Good results for the initial alignment can be achieved by centering the engine mount first using rubber embedded dowels. See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/2115940268527061/ this FB thread] [[File:Screen Shot 2023-04-24 at 6.46.40 AM.png|200x200px]] [[File:Screen Shot 2023-04-24 at 2.50.50 PM.png|200x200px]]
* Parts
**Steel dowels: McMaster 8893K178 Tight-Tolerance Oil-Hardening O1 Tool Steel Rod, 0.1875" Diameter, 3 Feet Long. Cut six 1 1/3 inch pieces off and chamfer.
**Rubber fuel line: Aircraft Spruce Part# 05-03597, OD 0.5 inch, ID 0.25 in, cut 6 pieces, 7/8 inch
** Silicone Tubing: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RYD6G5K Amazon], OD 0.25 in, ID 5/32 in, cut 6 pieces, 7/8 inch
**.5 OD / .257 ID Nylon spacers to guide drilling (fits 1/4 inch drill bit, enlarge as you step up the hole to 3/8): [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-x-1-in-x-257-I-D-Nylon-Spacer-815018/204276572 Home Depot]
*Insert the silicone hose into the rubber hose.
*Insert the dowel into the silicone hose (tap it in using a hammer).
*Grease the outer side of the rubber hose before inserting the dowels into the six engine mount attach tubes from the front.
*Use a 3/16 drill and run through the 6 engine mount holes. Ensure the 3/16 dowels go in.
*Mount the engine mount. Some of the dowels will be pushed back, try gently to push them into the firewall holes using light taps.
*Remove one dowel at a time (using a punch from the inside, then grab it with nose pliers), drill up the hole using modified Nylon spacers to center the drill, and secure with a bolt. The drill steps are: [[File:2023-04-27 19-52-27.jpg|400x400px]]
** 3/16 (0.1875) original hole
** 5/16 (0.3125) Note: a 1/4 drill bit will bind / break off, better to do larger steps
** 23/64 (0.359375) Note: recommended hole size for reamer to finish up
** 3/8 reamer (0.375), e.g. [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076DMH4BF at Amazon]
* Note: Don't waste the single-use metal stop nuts yet, instead use AN6 castle nuts (from the kit, not used yet) or 3/8-24 hardware store nuts for the drill process.
* Note: AN6 bolts may vary in diameter between .371 and .374. If you ream the hole to .375, there might be some intentional play. Some 3/8 drill bits are only .371 which may lead to binding if you don't ream to .375.
* Note: Some of the 1/2 inch attachment tubes of the engine mount have reduced diameter spots inside from welding. The bushings may bind there. You might have to grind the bushing.
* Note: If you have issues getting the fuel hose out of the hole, use a hook or awl and pierce the hose and pull out. If you have issues getting the nylon bushings out, consider using a screw extractor, e.g. [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09W5PW588 Screw Extractor Set]
* Note: Washer-00017 is raw steel and will corrode if not coated or greased.

====Page 46-04====
* Step 1: You need to remove the powder coating from the areas that need to engage with the main gear weldings, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8370057203115305 FB post].
====Page 46-06====
*Don't forget to grease the bushings on their outside.
* Tighten the castle nuts to spec, the bushing itself must not rotate. Check that the parts riding on the outside of the bushings still rotate after torquing the castle nuts. If not, see figure 1, it says to remove some of the powder coating if necessary.
* Check for any play in the horizontal bolt / bushing setup, also see this [https://www.facebook.com/reel/1723270615230761 FB thread].

====Page 46-07====
* If you prime the fork, the AN6-65A bolt may not fit, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/24515968341430934 FB thread]. If you prime, probably best to tape up the hole before priming.
[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 46: ENGINE MOUNT & LANDING GEAR

2025-11-17T18:30:09Z

Kirkbauer: /* Before You Start */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/06/20 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/46_10.pdf 46_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* You will need Aeroshell #5 grease for the wheel bearings; even if you use other types of wheels, you will need grease for this section in general.
* You will need either a 0.311 drill bit or reamer for drilling the main gear legs mounts
* You *might* need a 3/8" reamer for the nose wheel axle
* Some people consider lock nuts to be one-time use so consider using other hardware to test-fit and/or ordering some extra lock nuts especially if you have to re-work anything as you go (MS21045-6, AN365-428, AN365-524, etc).

Modifications to Consider

* There are other wheel/brake options that are offered by Van's and third-parties. If you go with Beringer, [https://www.airplane.build/2020/12/main-landing-gear-installed.html this blog will be helpful].
* Consider [https://flyboyaccessories.com/products/rv-jack-points-rv-10 jack points] so that you can change a tire with a standard car jack. Put these on after the brake assembly is on the main gear struts (you may not be able to get the brake assembly onto the strut with these in place).
* If you are using tubeless tires, Beringer makes a tire-pressure monitoring system similar to what you find on modern automobiles. Note that it is certified and fairly expensive, though.

=== Notes ===

==== Page 46-02 ====
* If you are planning on using [[Skybolt Hints|Skybolt]] camlocks instead of hinge pins around the firewall, consider laying out those brackets after temporarily installing the engine mount (Step 1) to make sure you don't have interference with the engine mount and the fasteners. Then, after removing the engine mount (Step 2) it will be easier to rivet those in place.
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7827327290721635 FB thread] on how to check you have nuts with sufficient friction.
* Good results for the initial alignment can be achieved by centering the engine mount first using rubber embedded dowels. See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/2115940268527061/ this FB thread] [[File:Screen Shot 2023-04-24 at 6.46.40 AM.png|200x200px]] [[File:Screen Shot 2023-04-24 at 2.50.50 PM.png|200x200px]]
* Parts
**Steel dowels: McMaster 8893K178 Tight-Tolerance Oil-Hardening O1 Tool Steel Rod, 0.1875" Diameter, 3 Feet Long. Cut six 1 1/3 inch pieces off and chamfer.
**Rubber fuel line: Aircraft Spruce Part# 05-03597, OD 0.5 inch, ID 0.25 in, cut 6 pieces, 7/8 inch
** Silicone Tubing: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RYD6G5K Amazon], OD 0.25 in, ID 5/32 in, cut 6 pieces, 7/8 inch
**.5 OD / .257 ID Nylon spacers to guide drilling (fits 1/4 inch drill bit, enlarge as you step up the hole to 3/8): [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-x-1-in-x-257-I-D-Nylon-Spacer-815018/204276572 Home Depot]
*Insert the silicone hose into the rubber hose.
*Insert the dowel into the silicone hose (tap it in using a hammer).
*Grease the outer side of the rubber hose before inserting the dowels into the six engine mount attach tubes from the front.
*Use a 3/16 drill and run through the 6 engine mount holes. Ensure the 3/16 dowels go in.
*Mount the engine mount. Some of the dowels will be pushed back, try gently to push them into the firewall holes using light taps.
*Remove one dowel at a time (using a punch from the inside, then grab it with nose pliers), drill up the hole using modified Nylon spacers to center the drill, and secure with a bolt. The drill steps are: [[File:2023-04-27 19-52-27.jpg|400x400px]]
** 3/16 (0.1875) original hole
** 5/16 (0.3125) Note: a 1/4 drill bit will bind / break off, better to do larger steps
** 23/64 (0.359375) Note: recommended hole size for reamer to finish up
** 3/8 reamer (0.375), e.g. [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076DMH4BF at Amazon]
* Note: Don't waste the single-use metal stop nuts yet, instead use AN6 castle nuts (from the kit, not used yet) or 3/8-24 hardware store nuts for the drill process.
* Note: AN6 bolts may vary in diameter between .371 and .374. If you ream the hole to .375, there might be some intentional play. Some 3/8 drill bits are only .371 which may lead to binding if you don't ream to .375.
* Note: Some of the 1/2 inch attachment tubes of the engine mount have reduced diameter spots inside from welding. The bushings may bind there. You might have to grind the bushing.
* Note: If you have issues getting the fuel hose out of the hole, use a hook or awl and pierce the hose and pull out. If you have issues getting the nylon bushings out, consider using a screw extractor, e.g. [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09W5PW588 Screw Extractor Set]
* Note: Washer-00017 is raw steel and will corrode if not coated or greased.

====Page 46-04====
* Step 1: You need to remove the powder coating from the areas that need to engage with the main gear weldings, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8370057203115305 FB post].
====Page 46-06====
*Don't forget to grease the bushings on their outside.
* Tighten the castle nuts to spec, the bushing itself must not rotate. Check that the parts riding on the outside of the bushings still rotate after torquing the castle nuts. If not, see figure 1, it says to remove some of the powder coating if necessary.
* Check for any play in the horizontal bolt / bushing setup, also see this [https://www.facebook.com/reel/1723270615230761 FB thread].

====Page 46-07====
* If you prime the fork, the AN6-65A bolt may not fit, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/24515968341430934 FB thread]. If you prime, probably best to tape up the hole before priming.
[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 48: GEAR LEG & WHEEL FAIRINGS

2025-11-17T18:27:47Z

Kirkbauer:

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 05/21/19 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/48_10.pdf 48_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

Properly aligning wheel pants and gear leg fairings is a tedious procedure. For maximum in-flight drag reduction, final alignment must be done with the aircraft’s weight off the wheels.

==== General ====
* For identifying hinges, see [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq-technical-builder-items/about-rv-kit-hinges/ Van's hinge FAQ]

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* A [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/rivspacer.php #40 adjustable rivet spacer] is a nice way to make evenly-spaced holes in your gear leg fairings. Not mandatory you can always do it by hand.
* A laser level that can produce both horizontal and vertical laser lines is probably easier than chalk lines and plumb bobs.
* Many people use Tinnerman Washers on their fiberglass components and you may want them on your wheel pant #6 and #8 screws now or one day in the future. You could consider planning around them from the start or just wait until screws start to pull through the fiberglass in the future.
* It's probably the only place you'll need it so you can work around it with a Dremel, but a [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/12-00947.php 1/4" CS bit] is handy here.
* Van's provides two LP24693C296 screws that have a slot in them with some sort of thread lock. They are very expensive and it's debatable whether you really need them or if you can just use another screw option with regular Loctite. It seems people have lost this screw from time to time even with Van's expensive version. Whether you decide to stick with Van's version or not, you most likely want to use alternatives during the build process and use the real ones for final assembly. You can use these screws during the build: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/ms24693C_machinescrew.php (perhaps order some extras in case you get epoxy on one!). See discussion on VAF [https://vansairforce.net/threads/what-os-so-special-about-the-lp24693c296-screw.214911/ here].

Modifications to Consider

* The plans have you build your own front wheel spacers (48-16 Step 3) but you can also buy nice pre-made ones from [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/wheelspacer05-12907.php Aircraft Spruce]. You'll need these regardless of the types of wheels you have on your plane (assuming you are using the standard wheel pants at least).
* Consider making or buying [https://flyboyaccessories.com/products/tug-guards-for-nosewheel-rvs-pair Tug Guards]
* It's easy to do this at any time in the future, but some people like longer bolts for the nose wheel towbar attachment. [https://bogertaviation.com/products/rv10-rv14-tow-pin-kits?_pos=37&_sid=aab4bb427&_ss=r This option] provides a more secure attachment but does stick out past the wheel pants by a little bit.
* Note that you will need to remove your wheel pants every time you want to check your tire pressure or add air to your tires. There are two common modifications to make this easier in the future:
** Create a strategically-placed hole that allows you to unscrew the tire stem cap and check/fill the tire without removing the wheel pants.
** Adding a door in each wheel pant to allow access to the tire stem. See [[Wheel Pant Doors]] for one method.
* Some people choose to split the wheel pant/gear leg intersection fairing into two pieces and permanently attaching each piece to the wheel pant. This can provide a cleaner look and it makes it a bit easier to remove the wheel pants. Here are a couple blogs that show that process:
** https://adamsrv10.com/category/finishing-kit/48-gear-leg-and-wheel-fairings/
** https://www.airplane.build/2023/06/gear-leg-and-nose-wheel-fairing-progress.html

=== Notes ===

==== Page 48-4 ====

* Step 2: note that there may be a seam on the top of each wheel pant but that seam is NOT centered.
* Step 3: if the opening doesn't line up between the front and back pieces go ahead and trim one of the pieces until they have a similar-sized opening. You'll be trimming the opening more once you have it installed on the wheel.
* Step 4: it might seem that the only important dimension on this block is the 1-1/4 height but you'll be using it later for the nosewheel where the height needs to be 7/8". So if you make this block exactly as described you can use it for all three wheels.

==== Page 48-5 ====

* Figure 1: consider screwing a taller block directly into the rear point of the wheel pant (at the approx. 9-5/16 mark referenced in the drawing). You'll need to take the wheel pants on and off quite a few times and once screwed in you will set a constant vertical alignment.

[[File:2025-10-11 13.13.24.jpg|none|thumb|Screwed wood into aft of wheel pant to fix a consistent vertical alignment (adjusted for the height the wheel is off of the ground).]]

==== Page 48-6 ====
* Step 1: Countersinking the 1/4 inch hole is discussed on this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7750115548442810 FB thread]
==== Page 48-8 ====
* Step 1: Most likely the trailing edge of your fairings will extend 1/2" or more past the cut line and you'll want to trim that later (even though the plans never mention to do that). What's useful here, though, is you can install some Clecos along the trailing edge aft of that cut line and it will maintain the shape much better than using tape, etc.
* Step 4: For opaque fairings, there are several ways to deal with the problem of how to make matching holes. Marking on the hinge will probably not be useful.
** You can Cleco the trailing edge of the fairing together (past the cut line) and then rest the hinge inside. Mark on the outside of the fairing where the hinge sits, then use those marks to draw a center line on the outside of the fairing. Clamp the hinge in place and drill from the outside into the hinge.
** See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5908827102571673 FB thread] for additional options.

==== Page 48-9 ====

* Step 3: If you put a hole in the fiberglass for the safety wire it is easy to rip that hole open when using standard safety wire pliers. Consider putting a hole in the flange of the hinge pin for the safety wire.

==== Page 48-10 ====

* Step 2: The plans make it sound like you can just pick any arbitrary point on the step and drop a plumb bob, but that won't work. You need to figure out how far in/out on the step will line up with the correct height on the gear leg fairing. In other words, you need a point on the leading edge of the gear leg fairing that is the same vertical and horizontal (inboard/outboard) point as a second point on the step. The easiest way to do this is to use a laser level or a string line with a bubble level. Using the step as a reference, move the line up/down the gear leg fairing until the two points are level. Now you have identified the height on the gear leg (which matches the height on the step) and the inboard/outboard point on the gear leg fairing. Now all you need to do is use a laser level or other method to find the inboard/outboard point on the step that is the same distance out as the point on the gear leg. In other words,

[[File:2025-10-31 18.33.08.jpg|none|thumb|Laser mark on leading edge of gear leg fairing and laser mark on the step are both the same height from the ground and parallel to the aircraft centerline. This only works at one specific lateral distance on the step -- for example, if you go inwards on the step then the gear leg point will be higher than the step.]]
'''Page 48-12'''

* As an alternative to Optional Section A-A on this page, consider splitting and permanently attaching this fairing (see links at top of this page).
'''Page 48-16'''

* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6748410295280012 FB thread] on fitting the nose wheel fairing.

==== Page 48-17 ====
* Step 2: Screw 3/8-24 x 1 3/4 is an RV-10 problem point. The steel bolt in the aluminum fork may eventually strip the thread and come loose. Consider evaluating measures to prevent this. See also
** this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/2109055989215489 FB thread]
** this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=148703 VAF thread]
** this [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_azEsNkA9Q&t=2s Youtube]
** this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23999125703115203 FB thread]
** this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/24515968341430934 FB thread]
*Step 3: It can be tricky to make sure the front wheel pant is straight for all directions. Consider using a laser level to make sure a laser line that follows the centerline of the belly of the aircraft also lines up with the rear of the front wheel fairing and the nose gear leg and the center of the tire.
[[File:2025-10-15 15.44.13.jpg|none|thumb|Here you can see that the laser line is parallel to the aircraft centerline (reference on ground) but the front wheel pant is rolled slightly to the right and the aft end is also slightly to the right (laser line is centered on the aft end of the wheel pant but is NOT centered on the tire and the gear leg).]]
[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 48: GEAR LEG & WHEEL FAIRINGS

2025-11-17T18:26:35Z

Kirkbauer: /* Before You Start */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 05/21/19 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/48_10.pdf 48_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

Properly aligning wheel pants and gear leg fairings is a tedious procedure. For maximum in-flight drag reduction, final alignment must be done with the aircraft’s weight off the wheels.

==== General ====
* For identifying hinges, see [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq-technical-builder-items/about-rv-kit-hinges/ Van's hinge FAQ]

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* A [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/rivspacer.php #40 adjustable rivet spacer] is a nice way to make evenly-spaced holes in your gear leg fairings. Not mandatory you can always do it by hand.
* A laser level that can produce both horizontal and vertical laser lines is probably easier than chalk lines and plumb bobs.
* Many people use Tinnerman Washers on their fiberglass components and you may want them on your wheel pant #6 and #8 screws now or one day in the future. You could consider planning around them from the start or just wait until screws start to pull through the fiberglass in the future.
* It's probably the only place you'll need it so you can work around it with a Dremel, but a [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/12-00947.php 1/4" CS bit] is handy here.
* Van's provides two LP24693C296 screws that have a slot in them with some sort of thread lock. They are very expensive and it's debatable whether you really need them or if you can just use another screw option with regular Loctite. It seems people have lost this screw from time to time even with Van's expensive version. Whether you decide to stick with Van's version or not, you most likely want to use alternatives during the build process and use the real ones for final assembly. You can use these screws during the build: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/ms24693C_machinescrew.php (perhaps order some extras in case you get epoxy on one!).

Modifications to Consider

* The plans have you build your own front wheel spacers (48-16 Step 3) but you can also buy nice pre-made ones from [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/wheelspacer05-12907.php Aircraft Spruce]. You'll need these regardless of the types of wheels you have on your plane (assuming you are using the standard wheel pants at least).
* Consider making or buying [https://flyboyaccessories.com/products/tug-guards-for-nosewheel-rvs-pair Tug Guards]
* It's easy to do this at any time in the future, but some people like longer bolts for the nose wheel towbar attachment. [https://bogertaviation.com/products/rv10-rv14-tow-pin-kits?_pos=37&_sid=aab4bb427&_ss=r This option] provides a more secure attachment but does stick out past the wheel pants by a little bit.
* Note that you will need to remove your wheel pants every time you want to check your tire pressure or add air to your tires. There are two common modifications to make this easier in the future:
** Create a strategically-placed hole that allows you to unscrew the tire stem cap and check/fill the tire without removing the wheel pants.
** Adding a door in each wheel pant to allow access to the tire stem. See [[Wheel Pant Doors]] for one method.
* Some people choose to split the wheel pant/gear leg intersection fairing into two pieces and permanently attaching each piece to the wheel pant. This can provide a cleaner look and it makes it a bit easier to remove the wheel pants. Here are a couple blogs that show that process:
** https://adamsrv10.com/category/finishing-kit/48-gear-leg-and-wheel-fairings/
** https://www.airplane.build/2023/06/gear-leg-and-nose-wheel-fairing-progress.html

=== Notes ===

==== Page 48-4 ====

* Step 2: note that there may be a seam on the top of each wheel pant but that seam is NOT centered.
* Step 3: if the opening doesn't line up between the front and back pieces go ahead and trim one of the pieces until they have a similar-sized opening. You'll be trimming the opening more once you have it installed on the wheel.
* Step 4: it might seem that the only important dimension on this block is the 1-1/4 height but you'll be using it later for the nosewheel where the height needs to be 7/8". So if you make this block exactly as described you can use it for all three wheels.

==== Page 48-5 ====

* Figure 1: consider screwing a taller block directly into the rear point of the wheel pant (at the approx. 9-5/16 mark referenced in the drawing). You'll need to take the wheel pants on and off quite a few times and once screwed in you will set a constant vertical alignment.

[[File:2025-10-11 13.13.24.jpg|none|thumb|Screwed wood into aft of wheel pant to fix a consistent vertical alignment (adjusted for the height the wheel is off of the ground).]]

==== Page 48-6 ====
* Step 1: Countersinking the 1/4 inch hole is discussed on this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7750115548442810 FB thread]
==== Page 48-8 ====
* Step 1: Most likely the trailing edge of your fairings will extend 1/2" or more past the cut line and you'll want to trim that later (even though the plans never mention to do that). What's useful here, though, is you can install some Clecos along the trailing edge aft of that cut line and it will maintain the shape much better than using tape, etc.
* Step 4: For opaque fairings, there are several ways to deal with the problem of how to make matching holes. Marking on the hinge will probably not be useful.
** You can Cleco the trailing edge of the fairing together (past the cut line) and then rest the hinge inside. Mark on the outside of the fairing where the hinge sits, then use those marks to draw a center line on the outside of the fairing. Clamp the hinge in place and drill from the outside into the hinge.
** See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5908827102571673 FB thread] for additional options.

==== Page 48-9 ====

* Step 3: If you put a hole in the fiberglass for the safety wire it is easy to rip that hole open when using standard safety wire pliers. Consider putting a hole in the flange of the hinge pin for the safety wire.

==== Page 48-10 ====

* Step 2: The plans make it sound like you can just pick any arbitrary point on the step and drop a plumb bob, but that won't work. You need to figure out how far in/out on the step will line up with the correct height on the gear leg fairing. In other words, you need a point on the leading edge of the gear leg fairing that is the same vertical and horizontal (inboard/outboard) point as a second point on the step. The easiest way to do this is to use a laser level or a string line with a bubble level. Using the step as a reference, move the line up/down the gear leg fairing until the two points are level. Now you have identified the height on the gear leg (which matches the height on the step) and the inboard/outboard point on the gear leg fairing. Now all you need to do is use a laser level or other method to find the inboard/outboard point on the step that is the same distance out as the point on the gear leg. In other words,

[[File:2025-10-31 18.33.08.jpg|none|thumb|Laser mark on leading edge of gear leg fairing and laser mark on the step are both the same height from the ground and parallel to the aircraft centerline. This only works at one specific lateral distance on the step -- for example, if you go inwards on the step then the gear leg point will be higher than the step.]]
'''Page 48-12'''

* As an alternative to Optional Section A-A on this page, consider splitting and permanently attaching this fairing (see links at top of this page).
'''Page 48-16'''

* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6748410295280012 FB thread] on fitting the nose wheel fairing.

==== Page 48-17 ====
* Step 2: Screw 3/8-24 x 1 3/4 is an RV-10 problem point. The steel bolt in the aluminum fork may eventually strip the thread and come loose. Consider evaluating measures to prevent this. See also
** this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/2109055989215489 FB thread]
** this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=148703 VAF thread]
** this [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_azEsNkA9Q&t=2s Youtube]
** this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23999125703115203 FB thread]
** this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/24515968341430934 FB thread]
*Step 3: It can be tricky to make sure the front wheel pant is straight for all directions. Consider using a laser level to make sure a laser line that follows the centerline of the belly of the aircraft also lines up with the rear of the front wheel fairing and the nose gear leg and the center of the tire.
[[File:2025-10-15 15.44.13.jpg|none|thumb|Here you can see that the laser line is parallel to the aircraft centerline (reference on ground) but the front wheel pant is rolled slightly to the right and the aft end is also slightly to the right (laser line is centered on the aft end of the wheel pant but is NOT centered on the tire and the gear leg).]]
[[Category:Hints]]

Wheel Pant Doors

2025-11-17T17:55:28Z

Kirkbauer: Create page describing some wheel pant door modifications

If you'd like to be able to check your tire pressure and fill your tires without removing your wheel pants, one option is to fabricate a door on each wheel pant. Here is one method that you can follow in order to make this modification.

* Fully complete Section 48
* Mark your desired door locations on outside of each wheel pant to allow access to tire stem. For main wheel pants consider an opening that is about 4" tall and 5" long and the front edge of the opening about 1" aft of the wheel pant seam.
* Remove all wheel pants. Drill a small hole in the four corners of each door opening so you can reference the location from the inside of the wheel pant.
* Add 2-3 layers of fiberglass cloth and epoxy to the inside of each wheel pant fully covering the desired door location by several inches on each side.
* After the fiberglass is dry, use an oscillating tool on another method to cut out the doors with minimal loss of material from the cutting blade.
* Now you want to add flanges to three sides of the opening and also add a tab to one side of the doors (see photos below). You can do this in one step if you plan carefully:
** Tape inside and outside of door to prevent epoxy from sticking except you want to leave the inside center and one edge clear on the inside of the door piece.
** For the door opening, you want to tape the inside of the edge where the tab on the door will go
** Now install several layers of fiberglass cloth for each door to form the tabs on the doors and the flanges on the openings (see photos).
* After it is dry, remove the doors, clean up and reinforce the flanges and tabs as necessary, and install the latch of your choice.
* (note a tab is used here instead of a hinge; but you could also consider a hinge and that should make it less likely that you will ever loose these doors)

[[File:2025-10-25 09.44.14.jpg|none|thumb|Inside of wheel pant doors after tab was added to one edge.]]
[[File:2025-10-25 09.44.29.jpg|none|thumb|Inside of main wheel pants after two rounds of fiberglass: reinforcement of entire section on the interior and addition of flanges on three sides of the opening.]]
[[File:Front wheel pant door opening.jpg|none|thumb|Front wheel pant door opening]]
[[File:Front wheel pant door.jpg|none|thumb|Front wheel pant door]]

File:Front wheel pant door.jpg

2025-11-17T17:54:26Z

Kirkbauer: Kirkbauer uploaded a new version of File:Front wheel pant door.jpg

Front wheel pant door

File:Front wheel pant door.jpg

2025-11-17T17:52:22Z

Kirkbauer:

Front wheel pant door

File:Front wheel pant door opening.jpg

2025-11-17T17:51:52Z

Kirkbauer:

Front wheel pant door opening

File:2025-10-25 09.44.29.jpg

2025-11-17T17:47:59Z

Kirkbauer:

Inside of main wheel pants after two rounds of fiberglass: reinforcement of entire section on the interior and addition of flanges on three sides of the opening.

File:2025-10-25 09.44.14.jpg

2025-11-17T17:46:39Z

Kirkbauer:

Inside of wheel pant doors after tab was added to one edge.

SECTION 48: GEAR LEG & WHEEL FAIRINGS

2025-11-17T17:34:51Z

Kirkbauer:

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 05/21/19 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/48_10.pdf 48_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

Properly aligning wheel pants and gear leg fairings is a tedious procedure. For maximum in-flight drag reduction, final alignment must be done with the aircraft’s weight off the wheels.

==== General ====
* For identifying hinges, see [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq-technical-builder-items/about-rv-kit-hinges/ Van's hinge FAQ]

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* A [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/rivspacer.php #40 adjustable rivet spacer] is a nice way to make evenly-spaced holes in your gear leg fairings. Not mandatory you can always do it by hand.
* A laser level that can produce both horizontal and vertical laser lines is probably easier than chalk lines and plumb bobs.
* Many people use Tinnerman Washers on their fiberglass components and you may want them on your wheel pant #6 and #8 screws now or one day in the future. You could consider planning around them from the start or just wait until screws start to pull through the fiberglass in the future.
* It's probably the only place you'll need it so you can work around it with a Dremel, but a [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/12-00947.php 1/4" CS bit] is handy here.

Modifications to Consider

* The plans have you build your own front wheel spacers (48-16 Step 3) but you can also buy nice pre-made ones from [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/wheelspacer05-12907.php Aircraft Spruce]. You'll need these regardless of the types of wheels you have on your plane (assuming you are using the standard wheel pants at least).
* Consider making or buying [https://flyboyaccessories.com/products/tug-guards-for-nosewheel-rvs-pair Tug Guards]
* It's easy to do this at any time in the future, but some people like longer bolts for the nose wheel towbar attachment. [https://bogertaviation.com/products/rv10-rv14-tow-pin-kits?_pos=37&_sid=aab4bb427&_ss=r This option] provides a more secure attachment but does stick out past the wheel pants by a little bit.
* Note that you will need to remove your wheel pants every time you want to check your tire pressure or add air to your tires. There are two common modifications to make this easier in the future:
** Create a strategically-placed hole that allows you to unscrew the tire stem cap and check/fill the tire without removing the wheel pants.
** Adding a door in each wheel pant to allow access to the tire stem. See [[Wheel Pant Doors]] for one method.
* Some people choose to split the wheel pant/gear leg intersection fairing into two pieces and permanently attaching each piece to the wheel pant. This can provide a cleaner look and it makes it a bit easier to remove the wheel pants. Here are a couple blogs that show that process:
** https://adamsrv10.com/category/finishing-kit/48-gear-leg-and-wheel-fairings/
** https://www.airplane.build/2023/06/gear-leg-and-nose-wheel-fairing-progress.html

=== Notes ===

==== Page 48-4 ====

* Step 2: note that there may be a seam on the top of each wheel pant but that seam is NOT centered.
* Step 3: if the opening doesn't line up between the front and back pieces go ahead and trim one of the pieces until they have a similar-sized opening. You'll be trimming the opening more once you have it installed on the wheel.
* Step 4: it might seem that the only important dimension on this block is the 1-1/4 height but you'll be using it later for the nosewheel where the height needs to be 7/8". So if you make this block exactly as described you can use it for all three wheels.

==== Page 48-5 ====

* Figure 1: consider screwing a taller block directly into the rear point of the wheel pant (at the approx. 9-5/16 mark referenced in the drawing). You'll need to take the wheel pants on and off quite a few times and once screwed in you will set a constant vertical alignment.

[[File:2025-10-11 13.13.24.jpg|none|thumb|Screwed wood into aft of wheel pant to fix a consistent vertical alignment (adjusted for the height the wheel is off of the ground).]]

==== Page 48-6 ====
* Step 1: Countersinking the 1/4 inch hole is discussed on this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7750115548442810 FB thread]
==== Page 48-8 ====
* Step 1: Most likely the trailing edge of your fairings will extend 1/2" or more past the cut line and you'll want to trim that later (even though the plans never mention to do that). What's useful here, though, is you can install some Clecos along the trailing edge aft of that cut line and it will maintain the shape much better than using tape, etc.
* Step 4: For opaque fairings, there are several ways to deal with the problem of how to make matching holes. Marking on the hinge will probably not be useful.
** You can Cleco the trailing edge of the fairing together (past the cut line) and then rest the hinge inside. Mark on the outside of the fairing where the hinge sits, then use those marks to draw a center line on the outside of the fairing. Clamp the hinge in place and drill from the outside into the hinge.
** See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5908827102571673 FB thread] for additional options.

==== Page 48-9 ====

* Step 3: If you put a hole in the fiberglass for the safety wire it is easy to rip that hole open when using standard safety wire pliers. Consider putting a hole in the flange of the hinge pin for the safety wire.

==== Page 48-10 ====

* Step 2: The plans make it sound like you can just pick any arbitrary point on the step and drop a plumb bob, but that won't work. You need to figure out how far in/out on the step will line up with the correct height on the gear leg fairing. In other words, you need a point on the leading edge of the gear leg fairing that is the same vertical and horizontal (inboard/outboard) point as a second point on the step. The easiest way to do this is to use a laser level or a string line with a bubble level. Using the step as a reference, move the line up/down the gear leg fairing until the two points are level. Now you have identified the height on the gear leg (which matches the height on the step) and the inboard/outboard point on the gear leg fairing. Now all you need to do is use a laser level or other method to find the inboard/outboard point on the step that is the same distance out as the point on the gear leg. In other words,

[[File:2025-10-31 18.33.08.jpg|none|thumb|Laser mark on leading edge of gear leg fairing and laser mark on the step are both the same height from the ground and parallel to the aircraft centerline. This only works at one specific lateral distance on the step -- for example, if you go inwards on the step then the gear leg point will be higher than the step.]]
'''Page 48-12'''

* As an alternative to Optional Section A-A on this page, consider splitting and permanently attaching this fairing (see links at top of this page).
'''Page 48-16'''

* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6748410295280012 FB thread] on fitting the nose wheel fairing.

==== Page 48-17 ====
* Step 2: Screw 3/8-24 x 1 3/4 is an RV-10 problem point. The steel bolt in the aluminum fork may eventually strip the thread and come loose. Consider evaluating measures to prevent this. See also
** this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/2109055989215489 FB thread]
** this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=148703 VAF thread]
** this [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_azEsNkA9Q&t=2s Youtube]
** this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23999125703115203 FB thread]
** this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/24515968341430934 FB thread]
*Step 3: It can be tricky to make sure the front wheel pant is straight for all directions. Consider using a laser level to make sure a laser line that follows the centerline of the belly of the aircraft also lines up with the rear of the front wheel fairing and the nose gear leg and the center of the tire.
[[File:2025-10-15 15.44.13.jpg|none|thumb|Here you can see that the laser line is parallel to the aircraft centerline (reference on ground) but the front wheel pant is rolled slightly to the right and the aft end is also slightly to the right (laser line is centered on the aft end of the wheel pant but is NOT centered on the tire and the gear leg).]]
[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 48: GEAR LEG & WHEEL FAIRINGS

2025-11-17T17:33:25Z

Kirkbauer: /* Before You Start */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 05/21/19 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/48_10.pdf 48_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

Properly aligning wheel pants and gear leg fairings is a tedious procedure. For maximum in-flight drag reduction, final alignment must be done with the aircraft’s weight off the wheels.

==== General ====
* For identifying hinges, see [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq-technical-builder-items/about-rv-kit-hinges/ Van's hinge FAQ]

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* A [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/rivspacer.php #40 adjustable rivet spacer] is a nice way to make evenly-spaced holes in your gear leg fairings. Not mandatory you can always do it by hand.
* A laser level that can produce both horizontal and vertical laser lines is probably easier than chalk lines and plumb bobs.
* Many people use Tinnerman Washers on their fiberglass components and you may want them on your wheel pant #6 and #8 screws now or one day in the future. You could consider planning around them from the start or just wait until screws start to pull through the fiberglass in the future.
* It's probably the only place you'll need it so you can work around it with a Dremel, but a [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/12-00947.php 1/4" CS bit] is handy here.

Modifications to Consider

* The plans have you build your own front wheel spacers (48-16 Step 3) but you can also buy nice pre-made ones from [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/wheelspacer05-12907.php Aircraft Spruce]. You'll need these regardless of the types of wheels you have on your plane (assuming you are using the standard wheel pants at least).
* Consider making or buying [https://flyboyaccessories.com/products/tug-guards-for-nosewheel-rvs-pair Tug Guards]
* It's easy to do this at any time in the future, but some people like longer bolts for the nose wheel towbar attachment. [https://bogertaviation.com/products/rv10-rv14-tow-pin-kits?_pos=37&_sid=aab4bb427&_ss=r This option] provides a more secure attachment but does stick out past the wheel pants by a little bit.
* Note that you will need to remove your wheel pants every time you want to check your tire pressure or add air to your tires. There are two common modifications to make this easier in the future:
** Create a strategically-placed hole that allows you to unscrew the tire stem cap and check/fill the tire without removing the wheel pants.
** Adding a door in each wheel pant to allow access to the tire stem. See [[Wheel Pant Doors]] for one method.
* Some people choose to split the wheel pant/gear leg intersection fairing into two pieces and permanently attaching each piece to the wheel pant. This can provide a cleaner look and it makes it a bit easier to remove the wheel pants. Here are a couple blogs that show that process:
** https://adamsrv10.com/category/finishing-kit/48-gear-leg-and-wheel-fairings/
** https://www.airplane.build/2023/06/gear-leg-and-nose-wheel-fairing-progress.html

=== Notes ===

==== Page 48-4 ====

* Step 2: note that there may be a seam on the top of each wheel pant but that seam is NOT centered.
* Step 3: if the opening doesn't line up between the front and back pieces go ahead and trim one of the pieces until they have a similar-sized opening. You'll be trimming the opening more once you have it installed on the wheel.
* Step 4: it might seem that the only important dimension on this block is the 1-1/4 height but you'll be using it later for the nosewheel where the height needs to be 7/8". So if you make this block exactly as described you can use it for all three wheels.

==== Page 48-5 ====

* Figure 1: consider screwing a taller block directly into the rear point of the wheel pant (at the approx. 9-5/16 mark referenced in the drawing). You'll need to take the wheel pants on and off quite a few times and once screwed in you will set a constant vertical alignment.

[[File:2025-10-11 13.13.24.jpg|none|thumb|Screwed wood into aft of wheel pant to fix a consistent vertical alignment (adjusted for the height the wheel is off of the ground).]]

==== Page 48-6 ====
* Step 1: Countersinking the 1/4 inch hole is discussed on this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7750115548442810 FB thread]
==== Page 48-8 ====
* Step 1: Most likely the trailing edge of your fairings will extend 1/2" or more past the cut line and you'll want to trim that later (even though the plans never mention to do that). What's useful here, though, is you can install some Clecos along the trailing edge aft of that cut line and it will maintain the shape much better than using tape, etc.
* Step 4: For opaque fairings, there are several ways to deal with the problem of how to make matching holes. Marking on the hinge will probably not be useful.
** You can Cleco the trailing edge of the fairing together (past the cut line) and then rest the hinge inside. Mark on the outside of the fairing where the hinge sits, then use those marks to draw a center line on the outside of the fairing. Clamp the hinge in place and drill from the outside into the hinge.
** See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5908827102571673 FB thread] for additional options.

==== Page 48-9 ====

* Step 3: If you put a hole in the fiberglass for the safety wire it is easy to rip that hole open when using standard safety wire pliers. Consider putting a hole in the flange of the hinge pin for the safety wire.

==== Page 48-10 ====

* Step 2: The plans make it sound like you can just pick any arbitrary point on the step and drop a plumb bob, but that won't work. You need to figure out how far in/out on the step will line up with the correct height on the gear leg fairing. In other words, you need a point on the leading edge of the gear leg fairing that is the same vertical and horizontal (inboard/outboard) point as a second point on the step. The easiest way to do this is to use a laser level or a string line with a bubble level. Using the step as a reference, move the line up/down the gear leg fairing until the two points are level. Now you have identified the height on the gear leg (which matches the height on the step) and the inboard/outboard point on the gear leg fairing. Now all you need to do is use a laser level or other method to find the inboard/outboard point on the step that is the same distance out as the point on the gear leg. In other words,

[[File:2025-10-31 18.33.08.jpg|none|thumb|Laser mark on leading edge of gear leg fairing and laser mark on the step are both the same height from the ground and parallel to the aircraft centerline. This only works at one specific lateral distance on the step -- for example, if you go inwards on the step then the gear leg point will be higher than the step.]]
'''Page 48-16'''

* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6748410295280012 FB thread] on fitting the nose wheel fairing.

==== Page 48-17 ====
* Step 2: Screw 3/8-24 x 1 3/4 is an RV-10 problem point. The steel bolt in the aluminum fork may eventually strip the thread and come loose. Consider evaluating measures to prevent this. See also
** this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/2109055989215489 FB thread]
** this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=148703 VAF thread]
** this [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_azEsNkA9Q&t=2s Youtube]
** this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23999125703115203 FB thread]
** this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/24515968341430934 FB thread]
*Step 3: It can be tricky to make sure the front wheel pant is straight for all directions. Consider using a laser level to make sure a laser line that follows the centerline of the belly of the aircraft also lines up with the rear of the front wheel fairing and the nose gear leg and the center of the tire.
[[File:2025-10-15 15.44.13.jpg|none|thumb|Here you can see that the laser line is parallel to the aircraft centerline (reference on ground) but the front wheel pant is rolled slightly to the right and the aft end is also slightly to the right (laser line is centered on the aft end of the wheel pant but is NOT centered on the tire and the gear leg).]]
[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 48: GEAR LEG & WHEEL FAIRINGS

2025-11-17T17:32:49Z

Kirkbauer:

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 05/21/19 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/48_10.pdf 48_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

Properly aligning wheel pants and gear leg fairings is a tedious procedure. For maximum in-flight drag reduction, final alignment must be done with the aircraft’s weight off the wheels.

==== General ====
* For identifying hinges, see [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq-technical-builder-items/about-rv-kit-hinges/ Van's hinge FAQ]

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* A [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/rivspacer.php #40 adjustable rivet spacer] is a nice way to make evenly-spaced holes in your gear leg fairings. Not mandatory you can always do it by hand.
* A laser level that can produce both horizontal and vertical laser lines is probably easier than chalk lines and plumb bobs.
* Many people use Tinnerman Washers on their fiberglass components and you may want them on your wheel pant #6 and #8 screws now or one day in the future. You could consider planning around them from the start or just wait until screws start to pull through the fiberglass in the future.
* It's probably the only place you'll need it so you can work around it with a Dremel, but a [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/12-00947.php 1/4" CS bit] is handy here.

Modifications to Consider

* The plans have you build your own front wheel spacers but you can also buy nice pre-made ones from [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/wheelspacer05-12907.php Aircraft Spruce]. You'll need these regardless of the types of wheels you have on your plane (assuming you are using the standard wheel pants at least).
* Consider making or buying [https://flyboyaccessories.com/products/tug-guards-for-nosewheel-rvs-pair Tug Guards]
* It's easy to do this at any time in the future, but some people like longer bolts for the nose wheel towbar attachment. [https://bogertaviation.com/products/rv10-rv14-tow-pin-kits?_pos=37&_sid=aab4bb427&_ss=r This option] provides a more secure attachment but does stick out past the wheel pants by a little bit.
* Note that you will need to remove your wheel pants every time you want to check your tire pressure or add air to your tires. There are two common modifications to make this easier in the future:
** Create a strategically-placed hole that allows you to unscrew the tire stem cap and check/fill the tire without removing the wheel pants.
** Adding a door in each wheel pant to allow access to the tire stem. See [[Wheel Pant Doors]] for one method.
* Some people choose to split the wheel pant/gear leg intersection fairing into two pieces and permanently attaching each piece to the wheel pant. This can provide a cleaner look and it makes it a bit easier to remove the wheel pants. Here are a couple blogs that show that process:
** https://adamsrv10.com/category/finishing-kit/48-gear-leg-and-wheel-fairings/
** https://www.airplane.build/2023/06/gear-leg-and-nose-wheel-fairing-progress.html

=== Notes ===

==== Page 48-4 ====

* Step 2: note that there may be a seam on the top of each wheel pant but that seam is NOT centered.
* Step 3: if the opening doesn't line up between the front and back pieces go ahead and trim one of the pieces until they have a similar-sized opening. You'll be trimming the opening more once you have it installed on the wheel.
* Step 4: it might seem that the only important dimension on this block is the 1-1/4 height but you'll be using it later for the nosewheel where the height needs to be 7/8". So if you make this block exactly as described you can use it for all three wheels.

==== Page 48-5 ====

* Figure 1: consider screwing a taller block directly into the rear point of the wheel pant (at the approx. 9-5/16 mark referenced in the drawing). You'll need to take the wheel pants on and off quite a few times and once screwed in you will set a constant vertical alignment.

[[File:2025-10-11 13.13.24.jpg|none|thumb|Screwed wood into aft of wheel pant to fix a consistent vertical alignment (adjusted for the height the wheel is off of the ground).]]

==== Page 48-6 ====
* Step 1: Countersinking the 1/4 inch hole is discussed on this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7750115548442810 FB thread]
==== Page 48-8 ====
* Step 1: Most likely the trailing edge of your fairings will extend 1/2" or more past the cut line and you'll want to trim that later (even though the plans never mention to do that). What's useful here, though, is you can install some Clecos along the trailing edge aft of that cut line and it will maintain the shape much better than using tape, etc.
* Step 4: For opaque fairings, there are several ways to deal with the problem of how to make matching holes. Marking on the hinge will probably not be useful.
** You can Cleco the trailing edge of the fairing together (past the cut line) and then rest the hinge inside. Mark on the outside of the fairing where the hinge sits, then use those marks to draw a center line on the outside of the fairing. Clamp the hinge in place and drill from the outside into the hinge.
** See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5908827102571673 FB thread] for additional options.

==== Page 48-9 ====

* Step 3: If you put a hole in the fiberglass for the safety wire it is easy to rip that hole open when using standard safety wire pliers. Consider putting a hole in the flange of the hinge pin for the safety wire.

==== Page 48-10 ====

* Step 2: The plans make it sound like you can just pick any arbitrary point on the step and drop a plumb bob, but that won't work. You need to figure out how far in/out on the step will line up with the correct height on the gear leg fairing. In other words, you need a point on the leading edge of the gear leg fairing that is the same vertical and horizontal (inboard/outboard) point as a second point on the step. The easiest way to do this is to use a laser level or a string line with a bubble level. Using the step as a reference, move the line up/down the gear leg fairing until the two points are level. Now you have identified the height on the gear leg (which matches the height on the step) and the inboard/outboard point on the gear leg fairing. Now all you need to do is use a laser level or other method to find the inboard/outboard point on the step that is the same distance out as the point on the gear leg. In other words,

[[File:2025-10-31 18.33.08.jpg|none|thumb|Laser mark on leading edge of gear leg fairing and laser mark on the step are both the same height from the ground and parallel to the aircraft centerline. This only works at one specific lateral distance on the step -- for example, if you go inwards on the step then the gear leg point will be higher than the step.]]
'''Page 48-16'''

* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6748410295280012 FB thread] on fitting the nose wheel fairing.

==== Page 48-17 ====
* Step 2: Screw 3/8-24 x 1 3/4 is an RV-10 problem point. The steel bolt in the aluminum fork may eventually strip the thread and come loose. Consider evaluating measures to prevent this. See also
** this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/2109055989215489 FB thread]
** this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=148703 VAF thread]
** this [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_azEsNkA9Q&t=2s Youtube]
** this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23999125703115203 FB thread]
** this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/24515968341430934 FB thread]
*Step 3: It can be tricky to make sure the front wheel pant is straight for all directions. Consider using a laser level to make sure a laser line that follows the centerline of the belly of the aircraft also lines up with the rear of the front wheel fairing and the nose gear leg and the center of the tire.
[[File:2025-10-15 15.44.13.jpg|none|thumb|Here you can see that the laser line is parallel to the aircraft centerline (reference on ground) but the front wheel pant is rolled slightly to the right and the aft end is also slightly to the right (laser line is centered on the aft end of the wheel pant but is NOT centered on the tire and the gear leg).]]
[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 48: GEAR LEG & WHEEL FAIRINGS

2025-11-17T17:27:27Z

Kirkbauer: Added tools/mods section

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 05/21/19 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/48_10.pdf 48_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

Properly aligning wheel pants and gear leg fairings is a tedious procedure. For maximum in-flight drag reduction, final alignment must be done with the aircraft’s weight off the wheels.

==== General ====
* For identifying hinges, see [https://www.vansaircraft.com/faq-technical-builder-items/about-rv-kit-hinges/ Van's hinge FAQ]

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* A [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/rivspacer.php #40 adjustable rivet spacer] is a nice way to make evenly-spaced holes in your gear leg fairings. Not mandatory you can always do it by hand.
* A laser level that can produce both horizontal and vertical laser lines is probably easier than chalk lines and plumb bobs.
* Many people use Tinnerman Washers on their fiberglass components and you may want them on your wheel pant #6 and #8 screws now or one day in the future. You could consider planning around them from the start or just wait until screws start to pull through the fiberglass in the future.
* It's probably the only place you'll need it so you can work around it with a Dremel, but a [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/12-00947.php 1/4" CS bit] is handy here.

Modifications to Consider

* The plans have you build your own front wheel spacers but you can also buy nice pre-made ones from [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/wheelspacer05-12907.php Aircraft Spruce]. You'll need these regardless of the types of wheels you have on your plane (assuming you are using the standard wheel pants at least).
* Consider making or buying [https://flyboyaccessories.com/products/tug-guards-for-nosewheel-rvs-pair Tug Guards]
* It's easy to do this at any time in the future, but some people like longer bolts for the nose wheel towbar attachment. [https://bogertaviation.com/products/rv10-rv14-tow-pin-kits?_pos=37&_sid=aab4bb427&_ss=r This option] provides a more secure attachment but does stick out past the wheel pants by a little bit.
* Note that you will need to remove your wheel pants every time you want to check your tire pressure or add air to your tires. There are two common modifications to make this easier in the future:
** Create a strategically-placed hole that allows you to unscrew the tire stem cap and check/fill the tire without removing the wheel pants.
** Adding a door in each wheel pant to allow access to the tire stem.

=== Notes ===

==== Page 48-4 ====

* Step 2: note that there may be a seam on the top of each wheel pant but that seam is NOT centered.
* Step 3: if the opening doesn't line up between the front and back pieces go ahead and trim one of the pieces until they have a similar-sized opening. You'll be trimming the opening more once you have it installed on the wheel.
* Step 4: it might seem that the only important dimension on this block is the 1-1/4 height but you'll be using it later for the nosewheel where the height needs to be 7/8". So if you make this block exactly as described you can use it for all three wheels.

==== Page 48-5 ====

* Figure 1: consider screwing a taller block directly into the rear point of the wheel pant (at the approx. 9-5/16 mark referenced in the drawing). You'll need to take the wheel pants on and off quite a few times and once screwed in you will set a constant vertical alignment.

[[File:2025-10-11 13.13.24.jpg|none|thumb|Screwed wood into aft of wheel pant to fix a consistent vertical alignment (adjusted for the height the wheel is off of the ground).]]

==== Page 48-6 ====
* Step 1: Countersinking the 1/4 inch hole is discussed on this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7750115548442810 FB thread]
==== Page 48-8 ====
* Step 1: Most likely the trailing edge of your fairings will extend 1/2" or more past the cut line and you'll want to trim that later (even though the plans never mention to do that). What's useful here, though, is you can install some Clecos along the trailing edge aft of that cut line and it will maintain the shape much better than using tape, etc.
* Step 4: For opaque fairings, there are several ways to deal with the problem of how to make matching holes. Marking on the hinge will probably not be useful.
** You can Cleco the trailing edge of the fairing together (past the cut line) and then rest the hinge inside. Mark on the outside of the fairing where the hinge sits, then use those marks to draw a center line on the outside of the fairing. Clamp the hinge in place and drill from the outside into the hinge.
** See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5908827102571673 FB thread] for additional options.

==== Page 48-9 ====

* Step 3: If you put a hole in the fiberglass for the safety wire it is easy to rip that hole open when using standard safety wire pliers. Consider putting a hole in the flange of the hinge pin for the safety wire.

==== Page 48-10 ====

* Step 2: The plans make it sound like you can just pick any arbitrary point on the step and drop a plumb bob, but that won't work. You need to figure out how far in/out on the step will line up with the correct height on the gear leg fairing. In other words, you need a point on the leading edge of the gear leg fairing that is the same vertical and horizontal (inboard/outboard) point as a second point on the step. The easiest way to do this is to use a laser level or a string line with a bubble level. Using the step as a reference, move the line up/down the gear leg fairing until the two points are level. Now you have identified the height on the gear leg (which matches the height on the step) and the inboard/outboard point on the gear leg fairing. Now all you need to do is use a laser level or other method to find the inboard/outboard point on the step that is the same distance out as the point on the gear leg. In other words,

[[File:2025-10-31 18.33.08.jpg|none|thumb|Laser mark on leading edge of gear leg fairing and laser mark on the step are both the same height from the ground and parallel to the aircraft centerline. This only works at one specific lateral distance on the step -- for example, if you go inwards on the step then the gear leg point will be higher than the step.]]
'''Page 48-16'''

* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6748410295280012 FB thread] on fitting the nose wheel fairing.

==== Page 48-17 ====
* Step 2: Screw 3/8-24 x 1 3/4 is an RV-10 problem point. The steel bolt in the aluminum fork may eventually strip the thread and come loose. Consider evaluating measures to prevent this. See also
** this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/2109055989215489 FB thread]
** this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=148703 VAF thread]
** this [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_azEsNkA9Q&t=2s Youtube]
** this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/23999125703115203 FB thread]
** this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/24515968341430934 FB thread]
*Step 3: It can be tricky to make sure the front wheel pant is straight for all directions. Consider using a laser level to make sure a laser line that follows the centerline of the belly of the aircraft also lines up with the rear of the front wheel fairing and the nose gear leg and the center of the tire.
[[File:2025-10-15 15.44.13.jpg|none|thumb|Here you can see that the laser line is parallel to the aircraft centerline (reference on ground) but the front wheel pant is rolled slightly to the right and the aft end is also slightly to the right (laser line is centered on the aft end of the wheel pant but is NOT centered on the tire and the gear leg).]]
[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 48: GEAR LEG & WHEEL FAIRINGS

2025-11-17T17:05:13Z

Kirkbauer: Added numerous details and pictures of wheel fairing assembly.

File:2025-10-15 15.44.13.jpg

2025-11-17T17:04:37Z

Kirkbauer:

Here you can see that the laser line is parallel to the aircraft centerline (reference on ground) but the front wheel pant is rolled slightly to the right and the aft end is also slightly to the right (laser line is centered on the aft end of the wheel pant but is NOT centered on the tire and the gear leg).

File:2025-10-31 18.33.08.jpg

2025-11-17T16:58:57Z

Kirkbauer:

Laser mark on leading edge of gear leg fairing and laser mark on the step are both the same height from the ground and parallel to the aircraft centerline. This only works at one specific lateral distance on the step -- for example, if you go inwards on the step then the gear leg point will be higher than the step.

File:2025-10-11 13.13.24.jpg

2025-11-17T16:29:58Z

Kirkbauer:

Screwed wood into aft of wheel pant to fix a consistent vertical alignment (adjusted for the height the wheel is off of the ground).

SECTION 14: WING RIBS

2025-10-06T15:45:39Z

Kirkbauer: I added a link to an unresolved discussion on VAF -- I don't like adding something without a definitive solution but I posted what seems to be a good solution to avoid the problem.

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Videos ===
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-emDvk3Iq0 Plane Lady: Van's Aircraft RV 10 Build Wing Ribs]

== Hints ==
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8029357263851969 FB Post] on ribs being shipped where embossing was done very shallow or not done at all. Also, newer ribs have an additional relief cut that causes edge distance issues with a nutplate.
* There is a nutplate you will need to install in Section 20, specifically see 20-6 steps 6 and 9. It is one specific K1100-08 that will be on the bottom aft of the W-1010-R (and W-1010-L). In section 20, you use the bottom skin to match-drill the #8 hole and the #40 nutplate attach holes. But then you have to dimple that #8 hole and the flap hinge bracket's rivets are going to be in your way. Consider using the bottom skin to match-drill this one nutplate now, deburr, and dimple, before you assemble the W-1010-R. See [https://vansairforce.net/threads/what-tool-do-you-use-to-dimple-extra-tight-tolerance-on-inboard-aft-most-8-nut-plate-on-wing-rib.238207/ this VAF thread] for more info.

== Page 14-04 ==
* Step 2: The second instruction says to insert the snap bushing from the inside but Figure 2 shows it inserted from the outside and that seems to be more correct as the W-1029C angle that got notched would be in the way of the snap bushing when inserted from the inside.

== Page 14-05 ==
* Several builders report callouts on page 14-05 with the wrong number of rivets to attach the ribs to the spar: Innermost rib needs 6 instead of 5 rivets, the 2 ribs inside the outmost rib need 8 instead of 4 rivets. See FB post [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansaircraftbuilders/posts/10166426530055525 3/28/2022] and VAF thread [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=135926 3/20/2016]

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 11: EMPENNAGE ATTACH

2025-10-02T23:25:23Z

Kirkbauer: /* Page 11-9 */ Added suggestion of a cotter pin for castle nut since instructions don't specify

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/11_10.pdf 11_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

Note: there are a lot separate steps in this section that require priming. Especially if you are using epoxy primer and a spray gun, you may want to read ahead. For example, when/if you prime on 11-5 Step 3, or 11-6 Step 4 (pushrod) you may want to jump ahead and do the rest of the fabrication, deburring, and priming:
* Page 11-8 Steps 1 through 7
* Page 11-9 Step 1
* Section 12, Page 12-6, F-1094A Empennage Gap Covers (deburr and prime inside surface)

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* You will need some [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/permatex.php anti-seize paste]
* A method of temporarily attaching the elevators is quite useful; consider some extra AN3-10A bolts that you can grind down for this purpose or consider making something [https://www.rv7-factory.com/?p=930 like this].
* A [https://www.aircraft-tool.com/detail?id=AE408 Rod End Bearing Tool] can be quite useful, or you can [http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/odd-ends.html#bearing%20tool create your own] (pictured below).
* A set of [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/washerwrenchset12-04723.php Washer Wrenches] makes some of this section much easier (and will be useful in the future as well)

[[File:rodendtool.jpg|500px]]

=== Notes ===

==== Page 11-2 ====
Step 3: This can be nearly impossible to do without a few tricks. Even then it is best to get at least one helper.
* The brackets on the elevators that you are attaching to in Detail B tend to be a bit too narrow.
* Make two small wooden wedges that you can insert in there to spread the bracket a bit -- you can use the end of the wedges that you cut out for the trim tab holders.
* Ruin two AN3-10A bolts by grinding down the end to make it have a smooth and narrow end.
* Insert both wedges, then insert the bearings into the brackets. Insert these modified bolts to attach the elevator. You may need to tilt the elevator far up or down and use needle-nose pliers to get the bolt in there.
* Nuts should still thread onto the end of these modified bolts -- that is good for now. Obviously, you'll need to use unmodified bolts later for final assembly. I actually didn't install any nut (or washer) for most of the work in this section.
* Note that the sentence in this section that refers to Detail C doesn't actually apply until you attach both elevators ("Not completely filling the gap between the elevator horn and the VA-146..."). That sentence is letting you know that it is important to fill the gap complete (I found it confusing).

Step 4: You can use two clamps per side instead of duct tape.

==== Page 11-3 ====

Step 5: Now this is where you use Detail C from the previous page. Make sure to fill the gaps as much as possible and fully tighten. Make sure the elevators are perfectly even before drilling. You can use flat dental floss to help get the washers in place, and/or Washer Wrenches. It's tough to get two washers in one side without some dental floss.

Again, consider using two clamps per side to line the counterweight with he HS.

==== Page 11-5 ====

Step 3: If you need to remove the VS and HS later before transporting to your hangar, you do not need remove and prime the parts at this stage.

==== Page 11-6 ====
Step 4: This step details how to mark a template to drill six holes around each end
of the control rod.
Section 39 ('''Control System'''), page 39-4 step 3 has a better method of drilling the rivet holes.
In particular, use a center punch to make sure the drill does not wander,
and use a drill press if you have one for best accuracy.
Rather than cutting up the plans as Vans suggest, take a photocopy and use that.

====Page 11-7====
When installing bolts in the rod end bearings for the elevators and rudder, I used a set of hemostats w/ some blue tape on the tip to hold the bolts during the install. Worked great to take in/out of the bearings. [[File:2023-12-23 16-41-04.jpg|Rod End Bearing installation|400px]]
==== Page 11-9 ====
* Step 2: The instructions don't specify a cotter pin for the AN310-4 castle nut; you almost certainly want to use a MS24665-132 on this castle nut but confirm with Van's as necessary.
* Step 5: As a starting point, check these drawinging [[File:Elev1.jpg|600px]] [[File:Elev2.jpg|600px]] The centered starting values for the trim cable nut positions are not very good and require painful iterations. Goal is that both tabs go down 35 degrees, are in sync in neutral and the right tab goes up 25 degrees while the left one stays neutral in all up (see also section [[CHAPTER:_PRE_FIRST_FLIGHT]]).
* Good right cable starting values: 3 threads exposed at the servo clevis, 21.4 mm from where the green ends at the servo side to the first nut 40.5 mm from where the green ends at the trim tab side to the bracket end 1.5 mm exposed of the threads at the trim tab clevis.
* Good left cable values: 7 threads exposed at the servo clevis, 20.9 mm from where the green ends at the servo side to the first nut 42.6 mm from where the green ends at the trim tab side to the bracket end 1 mm exposed of the threads at the trim tab clevis.
* Check also this thread on same topic: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=61863 VAF].
* Be sure to check the position output of the Ray Allen servo early in the process. There was a bad batch of Ray Allen servos where the potentiometer has intermittent output when cold (showing after 5 minutes in a freezer (keep servo in a freezer bag to avoid condensation).

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 46: ENGINE MOUNT & LANDING GEAR

2025-10-01T13:40:50Z

Kirkbauer: Added some getting started tips/supplies.

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/06/20 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/46_10.pdf 46_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* You will need Aeroshell #5 grease for the wheel bearings; even if you use other types of wheels, you will need grease for this section in general.
* You will need either a 0.311 drill bit or reamer for drilling the main gear legs mounts
* You *might* need a 3/8" reamer for the nose wheel axle
* Some people consider lock nuts to be one-time use so consider using other hardware to test-fit and/or ordering some extra lock nuts especially if you have to re-work anything as you go (MS21045-6, AN365-428, AN365-524, etc).

Modifications to Consider

* There are other wheel/brake options that are offered by Van's and third-parties. If you go with Beringer, [https://www.airplane.build/2020/12/main-landing-gear-installed.html this blog will be helpful].
* Consider [https://flyboyaccessories.com/products/rv-jack-points-rv-10 jack points] so that you can change a tire with a standard car jack. Put these on after the brake assembly is on the main gear struts (you may not be able to get the brake assembly onto the strut with these in place).

=== Notes ===

==== Page 46-02 ====
* If you are planning on using [[Skybolt Hints|Skybolt]] camlocks instead of hinge pins around the firewall, consider laying out those brackets after temporarily installing the engine mount (Step 1) to make sure you don't have interference with the engine mount and the fasteners. Then, after removing the engine mount (Step 2) it will be easier to rivet those in place.
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7827327290721635 FB thread] on how to check you have nuts with sufficient friction.
* Good results for the initial alignment can be achieved by centering the engine mount first using rubber embedded dowels. See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/2115940268527061/ this FB thread] [[File:Screen Shot 2023-04-24 at 6.46.40 AM.png|200x200px]] [[File:Screen Shot 2023-04-24 at 2.50.50 PM.png|200x200px]]
* Parts
**Steel dowels: McMaster 8893K178 Tight-Tolerance Oil-Hardening O1 Tool Steel Rod, 0.1875" Diameter, 3 Feet Long. Cut six 1 1/3 inch pieces off and chamfer.
**Rubber fuel line: Aircraft Spruce Part# 05-03597, OD 0.5 inch, ID 0.25 in, cut 6 pieces, 7/8 inch
** Silicone Tubing: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RYD6G5K Amazon], OD 0.25 in, ID 5/32 in, cut 6 pieces, 7/8 inch
**.5 OD / .257 ID Nylon spacers to guide drilling (fits 1/4 inch drill bit, enlarge as you step up the hole to 3/8): [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-x-1-in-x-257-I-D-Nylon-Spacer-815018/204276572 Home Depot]
*Insert the silicone hose into the rubber hose.
*Insert the dowel into the silicone hose (tap it in using a hammer).
*Grease the outer side of the rubber hose before inserting the dowels into the six engine mount attach tubes from the front.
*Use a 3/16 drill and run through the 6 engine mount holes. Ensure the 3/16 dowels go in.
*Mount the engine mount. Some of the dowels will be pushed back, try gently to push them into the firewall holes using light taps.
*Remove one dowel at a time (using a punch from the inside, then grab it with nose pliers), drill up the hole using modified Nylon spacers to center the drill, and secure with a bolt. The drill steps are: [[File:2023-04-27 19-52-27.jpg|400x400px]]
** 3/16 (0.1875) original hole
** 5/16 (0.3125) Note: a 1/4 drill bit will bind / break off, better to do larger steps
** 23/64 (0.359375) Note: recommended hole size for reamer to finish up
** 3/8 reamer (0.375), e.g. [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076DMH4BF at Amazon]
* Note: Don't waste the single-use metal stop nuts yet, instead use AN6 castle nuts (from the kit, not used yet) or 3/8-24 hardware store nuts for the drill process.
* Note: AN6 bolts may vary in diameter between .371 and .374. If you ream the hole to .375, there might be some intentional play. Some 3/8 drill bits are only .371 which may lead to binding if you don't ream to .375.
* Note: Some of the 1/2 inch attachment tubes of the engine mount have reduced diameter spots inside from welding. The bushings may bind there. You might have to grind the bushing.
* Note: If you have issues getting the fuel hose out of the hole, use a hook or awl and pierce the hose and pull out. If you have issues getting the nylon bushings out, consider using a screw extractor, e.g. [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09W5PW588 Screw Extractor Set]
* Note: Washer-00017 is raw steel and will corrode if not coated or greased.

====Page 46-04====
* Step 1: You need to remove the powder coating from the areas that need to engage with the main gear weldings, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8370057203115305 FB post].
====Page 46-06====
*Don't forget to grease the bushings on their outside.
* Tighten the castle nuts to spec, the bushing itself must not rotate. Check that the parts riding on the outside of the bushings still rotate after torquing the castle nuts. If not, see figure 1, it says to remove some of the powder coating if necessary.
* Check for any play in the horizontal bolt / bushing setup, also see this [https://www.facebook.com/reel/1723270615230761 FB thread].

====Page 46-07====
* If you prime the fork, the AN6-65A bolt may not fit, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/24515968341430934 FB thread]. If you prime, probably best to tape up the hole before priming.
[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 27: FIREWALL

2025-09-22T19:53:13Z

Kirkbauer: /* PAGE 27-6 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

'''Note: the firewall will really cut you up until you thoroughly deburr it; just another note here if you don't take the note seriously in the build instructions.'''

=== Videos ===
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dY1PJQr3pZk Austin Manke: RV-10 Firewall - Section 27]

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* Suggest using [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/firewall2000caulk.php Fire Caulk] instead of fuel tank sealant in/around the firewall (it can be used around F-1039D and in the next chapter on the lower flange of the firewall)
* You may need a [https://cleavelandtool.com/products/12-long-double-offset-back-rivet-set double-offset back rivet set] that wasn't mentioned in the official tool list

Modifications to Consider

* Consider upgrading the TG-10-R and TG-10-L cabin heat selector boxes to stainless steel: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/heaterbypass3.php
* It's not needed in this section but while ordering the stainless heat selector boxes, consider getting a [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/AN837-6.php steel fuel fitting] and [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/AN924-6.php steel nut]
* You might want 1ft of [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/koolmat.php koolmat] (see below)
* Consider how you want to pass control cables through the firewall (more details below)
* Consider putting one or two [https://www.airward.com/products/rv-10-tunnel-access-cs-screws-rv-10-tunnel-access-w-countersunk-screws side-access panels] for easier access to the tunnel later without having to remove the forward top cover.
* Consider if you want to provide insulation and/or additional fire protection on the hot side of the firewall. Some people use Lava Shield and Dan Horton offers a FiberFrax kit. You can't install anything like this until all of the riveting is done much later, but you may want to trim and otherwise prepare before the firewall is installed since it will be much easier to do it when flat on a table.

=== Firewall Breakdown ===
You don't need to (and probably shouldn't) do any firewall customizations at this stage, but for current and future reference here is what the various firewall nutplates and penetrations are for per the plans. Note that most people do not need the manifold passthrough and that can be used for something else. Other people use a battery passthrough post instead of using the provided hole (the hole can be enlargened for that purpose). Most people need to add passthroughs for low-voltage wiring, nutplates for shunts or fuses, ground block, etc.

[[File:Firewall.png|thumb]]

=== Notes ===

==== PAGE 27-1 ====

You may want to trim the flanges of F-1001M Left Side Angle and F-1001D Right Side Angle. The bold text in Section 29, page 29-14 indicates that it is acceptable to do so, but I think it would be a lot easier to do it here. You'll need to be able to match-drill four holes and each end of each Side Angle is in the way of that match drill.

If you want to do this, you'll want to trim the flange (the part that points aft of the firewall) at each end of each part. I'd suggest trimming 3" from each end of each flange. Here is a picture showing what it looked like after I had to trim it later to give you an idea of the shape you'll need to cut out of the flanges.

[[File:2024-10-09 20.43.27.jpg|thumb|Trimmed bottom flange of F-1001M Left Side Angle in order to fit my angle drill bit in for the match drill.]]

==== PAGE 27-2 ====
* For additional info on the firewall in general, see also section [[QB_Fuselage]]

===== Step 3 =====
* Plan your control cables pass-throughs before drilling here -- you may not want to drill these even for a Lycoming engine.
* Some people have used an "eyeball" type here that may require different spacing than the pre-punched holes provided in the kit. Many use these for the control cable penetrations (at Spruce: [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/eyeballfw2.php EYEBALL FIREWALL FITTING- SS PRESSURE PLATE - STEEL TTP]): [[File:Eyeball Pass-thru.png]] More products are here: https://www.firewallfittings.com/product/ttp-s/ You may need to order custom diameter pass-throughs [https://www.firewallfittings.com/product/ttp-s-custom/ here], for example, the California "176-VTT"-type Push Pull cables have an OD of .34, so a custom OD of .345 may be appropriate. You can also order double hole ones [https://www.firewallfittings.com/product/ttp-s-custom/ here] [[File:Screen Shot 2023-09-18 at 9.23.27 PM.png|300px]].
* Look ahead in the plans to see if you want to do the double plastic bushing. The RV-14 kit uses an FF-00001 to penetrate the firewall: [[File:Ff-00001.png|659x659px]]
* Many people have used the following pass-thru with the RV-10 (at Spruce: [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/ssfirewallkit12-04762.php?clickkey=5015617 Avery SS Firewall Pass-Thru]): [[File:Avery SS Pass-Thru.png|304x304px]]
* If you plan to install electronic injection (SDS or EFII) or a fuel purge valve, mirror the 9/16 hole over to the left side as you will need two.
===== Step 4 =====
* Several builders are reporting that part WD-1002-L-PC / WD-1002-R-PC is being labelled incorrectly. If you ended up with two of the same kind, Vans will be happy to swap them out.

===== Step 5 =====
It mentions fourteen K1000-3 nutplates but there aren't nearly that many shown on Figure 2. There are fifteen shown on page 27-5. I believe it is referring to all of the K1000-3s shown on 27-5 except the one on the F-1001G-R Gusset.

===== Step 6 =====
It mentions in Step 7 (and on page 27-5) that two of the nutplates are mounted on the forward side of the firewall. You will want to dimple opposite for the nutplate at the lower center of the firewall that is mounted on the forward side. The other nutplate that is mounted on the forward side is behind F-1001B so does not need to be dimpled on either side of F-1001A.

One of the nutplates mounted to F-1001B is mounted on the forward side of the firewall, which means you don't need to countersink the mounting holes into F-1001B for that one nutplate (as shown on page 27-5).

Note that every #30 and #40 hole on the firewall needs to be dimpled flush on the forward side except the two forward-mounted nutplates as already mentioned. Do NOT dimple any of the larger holes. The flanges also need to be dimpled to accept the forward fuselage skins.

===== Step 7 =====
*Note when riveting F-1001M Left Side Angle, you need to leave the 2 holes that intersect the Oil Cooler Box Attach Holes open so that they can be used to attach the oil cooler in Section FF1-2

==== PAGE 27-3 ====
* Step 1: be careful not to get too close to the nutplate pattern at the top of F-1048-R.
* Part F-1051J Scat Tube Support is installed on Page 50-2, Step 1.

==== PAGE 27-4 ====
* Step 1: In order to nest the aluminum and steel parts and make the holes align, it's necessary to file F-1001E-L/R as indicated in figure 1.
* Step 1: The WD-1004 nose gear tension fitting is the same part for left and right. The tooling hole will be on the upper rib on the left and the lower rib on the right side.
* Step 3: I think these need to be a bit deeper countersinks to fully fit the stainless dimples
* Step 5: Note that F-1001G-L gusset has a nutplate pattern but it isn't shown on the plans. I believe you do not need a nutplate on the left version (but you do need one on the F-1001G-R).
* Step 6: The manual doesn't spell out that you need to dimple the screw holes of the K1100-08 nutplates along the top (but not the screw holes for the K1000-08 nutplates along the bottom). See page 26-2, step 5 as reference.
* Step 6: Pay attention that the nutplates on the top edge of F-1048-L and F-1048-R are on the inside of the tunnel, while the nutplates that are on the bottom edge are on the outside of the tunnel (they will be under the front floors). At least one builder has put all nutplates on the inside of the tunnel even though the pictures clearly show otherwise.
* Step 8:
** If you are planning to use the Andair fuel selector you might want to hold off riveting the F-1048C-1 Fuel Valve Bracket to the fwd fuselage ribs, as the Andair selector does not fit this bracket.
** Check for a potential gap between the WD-1004 Nose Gear Tension Fittings and the firewall. If so, check for interference between the flange of the center angle and the F-1001C lower channel. The center angle and channel must be sitting flush with each other relative to the firewall. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7594620740658959 FB post].

==== PAGE 27-6 ====
Step 2: I don't know how you are supposed to rivet F-1039D to the firewall recess. My rivet gun won't fit into the recess. I used a double-offset back rivet head (not included in the standard tool kits for RV-10) on the inside of the firewall but it wasn't the cleanest rivet job.

If you will be using the stock oil cooler, now is the easiest time to rivet the mounting box onto the firewall. Consider doing all six steps from FF1-2 at this time.

Note: most people replace the aluminum TG-10-R and TG-10-L cabin heat selector boxes with stainless steel versions. You also might want to insulate the cabin from these valves so that heat doesn't transfer even when the valves are closed. See photos here: https://vansairforce.net/threads/whats-the-current-situation-with-tunnel-heat.229428/post-1791102
[[File:TG-10 insulation.jpg|thumb|Insulate valve door of TB-10 to prevent radiant heat from passing to the tunnel]]
Plans for the heat box are a 1 pager and separate to all the other Vans plans. A copy is here
[[File:Heat Box plans.jpg|thumb|Heat box plans]]

If you are going to install any sort additional heat/fire protection on the hot side of the firewall, you probably want to hold off on installing the VENT TG-10-L and TG-10-R (or their stainless steel version) until after you have finished that process. Although now would be a great time to prep/trim any such additional insulation, you can't install it until much later when all of the rivets are complete.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 27: FIREWALL

2025-09-22T19:52:25Z

Kirkbauer: /* PAGE 27-6 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

'''Note: the firewall will really cut you up until you thoroughly deburr it; just another note here if you don't take the note seriously in the build instructions.'''

=== Videos ===
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dY1PJQr3pZk Austin Manke: RV-10 Firewall - Section 27]

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* Suggest using [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/firewall2000caulk.php Fire Caulk] instead of fuel tank sealant in/around the firewall (it can be used around F-1039D and in the next chapter on the lower flange of the firewall)
* You may need a [https://cleavelandtool.com/products/12-long-double-offset-back-rivet-set double-offset back rivet set] that wasn't mentioned in the official tool list

Modifications to Consider

* Consider upgrading the TG-10-R and TG-10-L cabin heat selector boxes to stainless steel: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/heaterbypass3.php
* It's not needed in this section but while ordering the stainless heat selector boxes, consider getting a [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/AN837-6.php steel fuel fitting] and [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/AN924-6.php steel nut]
* You might want 1ft of [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/koolmat.php koolmat] (see below)
* Consider how you want to pass control cables through the firewall (more details below)
* Consider putting one or two [https://www.airward.com/products/rv-10-tunnel-access-cs-screws-rv-10-tunnel-access-w-countersunk-screws side-access panels] for easier access to the tunnel later without having to remove the forward top cover.
* Consider if you want to provide insulation and/or additional fire protection on the hot side of the firewall. Some people use Lava Shield and Dan Horton offers a FiberFrax kit. You can't install anything like this until all of the riveting is done much later, but you may want to trim and otherwise prepare before the firewall is installed since it will be much easier to do it when flat on a table.

=== Firewall Breakdown ===
You don't need to (and probably shouldn't) do any firewall customizations at this stage, but for current and future reference here is what the various firewall nutplates and penetrations are for per the plans. Note that most people do not need the manifold passthrough and that can be used for something else. Other people use a battery passthrough post instead of using the provided hole (the hole can be enlargened for that purpose). Most people need to add passthroughs for low-voltage wiring, nutplates for shunts or fuses, ground block, etc.

[[File:Firewall.png|thumb]]

=== Notes ===

==== PAGE 27-1 ====

You may want to trim the flanges of F-1001M Left Side Angle and F-1001D Right Side Angle. The bold text in Section 29, page 29-14 indicates that it is acceptable to do so, but I think it would be a lot easier to do it here. You'll need to be able to match-drill four holes and each end of each Side Angle is in the way of that match drill.

If you want to do this, you'll want to trim the flange (the part that points aft of the firewall) at each end of each part. I'd suggest trimming 3" from each end of each flange. Here is a picture showing what it looked like after I had to trim it later to give you an idea of the shape you'll need to cut out of the flanges.

[[File:2024-10-09 20.43.27.jpg|thumb|Trimmed bottom flange of F-1001M Left Side Angle in order to fit my angle drill bit in for the match drill.]]

==== PAGE 27-2 ====
* For additional info on the firewall in general, see also section [[QB_Fuselage]]

===== Step 3 =====
* Plan your control cables pass-throughs before drilling here -- you may not want to drill these even for a Lycoming engine.
* Some people have used an "eyeball" type here that may require different spacing than the pre-punched holes provided in the kit. Many use these for the control cable penetrations (at Spruce: [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/eyeballfw2.php EYEBALL FIREWALL FITTING- SS PRESSURE PLATE - STEEL TTP]): [[File:Eyeball Pass-thru.png]] More products are here: https://www.firewallfittings.com/product/ttp-s/ You may need to order custom diameter pass-throughs [https://www.firewallfittings.com/product/ttp-s-custom/ here], for example, the California "176-VTT"-type Push Pull cables have an OD of .34, so a custom OD of .345 may be appropriate. You can also order double hole ones [https://www.firewallfittings.com/product/ttp-s-custom/ here] [[File:Screen Shot 2023-09-18 at 9.23.27 PM.png|300px]].
* Look ahead in the plans to see if you want to do the double plastic bushing. The RV-14 kit uses an FF-00001 to penetrate the firewall: [[File:Ff-00001.png|659x659px]]
* Many people have used the following pass-thru with the RV-10 (at Spruce: [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/ssfirewallkit12-04762.php?clickkey=5015617 Avery SS Firewall Pass-Thru]): [[File:Avery SS Pass-Thru.png|304x304px]]
* If you plan to install electronic injection (SDS or EFII) or a fuel purge valve, mirror the 9/16 hole over to the left side as you will need two.
===== Step 4 =====
* Several builders are reporting that part WD-1002-L-PC / WD-1002-R-PC is being labelled incorrectly. If you ended up with two of the same kind, Vans will be happy to swap them out.

===== Step 5 =====
It mentions fourteen K1000-3 nutplates but there aren't nearly that many shown on Figure 2. There are fifteen shown on page 27-5. I believe it is referring to all of the K1000-3s shown on 27-5 except the one on the F-1001G-R Gusset.

===== Step 6 =====
It mentions in Step 7 (and on page 27-5) that two of the nutplates are mounted on the forward side of the firewall. You will want to dimple opposite for the nutplate at the lower center of the firewall that is mounted on the forward side. The other nutplate that is mounted on the forward side is behind F-1001B so does not need to be dimpled on either side of F-1001A.

One of the nutplates mounted to F-1001B is mounted on the forward side of the firewall, which means you don't need to countersink the mounting holes into F-1001B for that one nutplate (as shown on page 27-5).

Note that every #30 and #40 hole on the firewall needs to be dimpled flush on the forward side except the two forward-mounted nutplates as already mentioned. Do NOT dimple any of the larger holes. The flanges also need to be dimpled to accept the forward fuselage skins.

===== Step 7 =====
*Note when riveting F-1001M Left Side Angle, you need to leave the 2 holes that intersect the Oil Cooler Box Attach Holes open so that they can be used to attach the oil cooler in Section FF1-2

==== PAGE 27-3 ====
* Step 1: be careful not to get too close to the nutplate pattern at the top of F-1048-R.
* Part F-1051J Scat Tube Support is installed on Page 50-2, Step 1.

==== PAGE 27-4 ====
* Step 1: In order to nest the aluminum and steel parts and make the holes align, it's necessary to file F-1001E-L/R as indicated in figure 1.
* Step 1: The WD-1004 nose gear tension fitting is the same part for left and right. The tooling hole will be on the upper rib on the left and the lower rib on the right side.
* Step 3: I think these need to be a bit deeper countersinks to fully fit the stainless dimples
* Step 5: Note that F-1001G-L gusset has a nutplate pattern but it isn't shown on the plans. I believe you do not need a nutplate on the left version (but you do need one on the F-1001G-R).
* Step 6: The manual doesn't spell out that you need to dimple the screw holes of the K1100-08 nutplates along the top (but not the screw holes for the K1000-08 nutplates along the bottom). See page 26-2, step 5 as reference.
* Step 6: Pay attention that the nutplates on the top edge of F-1048-L and F-1048-R are on the inside of the tunnel, while the nutplates that are on the bottom edge are on the outside of the tunnel (they will be under the front floors). At least one builder has put all nutplates on the inside of the tunnel even though the pictures clearly show otherwise.
* Step 8:
** If you are planning to use the Andair fuel selector you might want to hold off riveting the F-1048C-1 Fuel Valve Bracket to the fwd fuselage ribs, as the Andair selector does not fit this bracket.
** Check for a potential gap between the WD-1004 Nose Gear Tension Fittings and the firewall. If so, check for interference between the flange of the center angle and the F-1001C lower channel. The center angle and channel must be sitting flush with each other relative to the firewall. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7594620740658959 FB post].

==== PAGE 27-6 ====
Step 2: I don't know how you are supposed to rivet F-1039D to the firewall recess. My rivet gun won't fit into the recess. I used a double-offset back rivet head (not included in the standard tool kits for RV-10) on the inside of the firewall but it wasn't the cleanest rivet job.

If you will be using the stock oil cooler, now is the easiest time to rivet the mounting box onto the firewall. Consider doing all six steps from FF1-2 at this time.

Note: most people replace the aluminum TG-10-R and TG-10-L cabin heat selector boxes with stainless steel versions. You also might want to insulate the cabin from these valves so that heat doesn't transfer even when the valves are closed. See photos here: https://vansairforce.net/threads/whats-the-current-situation-with-tunnel-heat.229428/post-1791102
[[File:TG-10 insulation.jpg|thumb|Insulate valve door of TB-10 to prevent radiant heat from passing to the tunnel]]
Plans for the heat box are a 1 pager and separate to all the other Vans plans. A copy is here
[[File:Heat Box plans.jpg|thumb|Heat box plans]]

If you are going to install any sort additional heat/fire protection on the hot side of the firewall, you probably want to hold off on installing the VENT TG-10-L until after you have finished that process. Although now would be a great time to prep/trim any such additional insulation, you can't install it until much later when all of the rivets are complete.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 27: FIREWALL

2025-09-22T19:50:23Z

Kirkbauer: /* Before You Start */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

'''Note: the firewall will really cut you up until you thoroughly deburr it; just another note here if you don't take the note seriously in the build instructions.'''

=== Videos ===
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dY1PJQr3pZk Austin Manke: RV-10 Firewall - Section 27]

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* Suggest using [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/firewall2000caulk.php Fire Caulk] instead of fuel tank sealant in/around the firewall (it can be used around F-1039D and in the next chapter on the lower flange of the firewall)
* You may need a [https://cleavelandtool.com/products/12-long-double-offset-back-rivet-set double-offset back rivet set] that wasn't mentioned in the official tool list

Modifications to Consider

* Consider upgrading the TG-10-R and TG-10-L cabin heat selector boxes to stainless steel: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/heaterbypass3.php
* It's not needed in this section but while ordering the stainless heat selector boxes, consider getting a [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/AN837-6.php steel fuel fitting] and [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/AN924-6.php steel nut]
* You might want 1ft of [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/koolmat.php koolmat] (see below)
* Consider how you want to pass control cables through the firewall (more details below)
* Consider putting one or two [https://www.airward.com/products/rv-10-tunnel-access-cs-screws-rv-10-tunnel-access-w-countersunk-screws side-access panels] for easier access to the tunnel later without having to remove the forward top cover.
* Consider if you want to provide insulation and/or additional fire protection on the hot side of the firewall. Some people use Lava Shield and Dan Horton offers a FiberFrax kit. You can't install anything like this until all of the riveting is done much later, but you may want to trim and otherwise prepare before the firewall is installed since it will be much easier to do it when flat on a table.

=== Firewall Breakdown ===
You don't need to (and probably shouldn't) do any firewall customizations at this stage, but for current and future reference here is what the various firewall nutplates and penetrations are for per the plans. Note that most people do not need the manifold passthrough and that can be used for something else. Other people use a battery passthrough post instead of using the provided hole (the hole can be enlargened for that purpose). Most people need to add passthroughs for low-voltage wiring, nutplates for shunts or fuses, ground block, etc.

[[File:Firewall.png|thumb]]

=== Notes ===

==== PAGE 27-1 ====

You may want to trim the flanges of F-1001M Left Side Angle and F-1001D Right Side Angle. The bold text in Section 29, page 29-14 indicates that it is acceptable to do so, but I think it would be a lot easier to do it here. You'll need to be able to match-drill four holes and each end of each Side Angle is in the way of that match drill.

If you want to do this, you'll want to trim the flange (the part that points aft of the firewall) at each end of each part. I'd suggest trimming 3" from each end of each flange. Here is a picture showing what it looked like after I had to trim it later to give you an idea of the shape you'll need to cut out of the flanges.

[[File:2024-10-09 20.43.27.jpg|thumb|Trimmed bottom flange of F-1001M Left Side Angle in order to fit my angle drill bit in for the match drill.]]

==== PAGE 27-2 ====
* For additional info on the firewall in general, see also section [[QB_Fuselage]]

===== Step 3 =====
* Plan your control cables pass-throughs before drilling here -- you may not want to drill these even for a Lycoming engine.
* Some people have used an "eyeball" type here that may require different spacing than the pre-punched holes provided in the kit. Many use these for the control cable penetrations (at Spruce: [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/eyeballfw2.php EYEBALL FIREWALL FITTING- SS PRESSURE PLATE - STEEL TTP]): [[File:Eyeball Pass-thru.png]] More products are here: https://www.firewallfittings.com/product/ttp-s/ You may need to order custom diameter pass-throughs [https://www.firewallfittings.com/product/ttp-s-custom/ here], for example, the California "176-VTT"-type Push Pull cables have an OD of .34, so a custom OD of .345 may be appropriate. You can also order double hole ones [https://www.firewallfittings.com/product/ttp-s-custom/ here] [[File:Screen Shot 2023-09-18 at 9.23.27 PM.png|300px]].
* Look ahead in the plans to see if you want to do the double plastic bushing. The RV-14 kit uses an FF-00001 to penetrate the firewall: [[File:Ff-00001.png|659x659px]]
* Many people have used the following pass-thru with the RV-10 (at Spruce: [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/ssfirewallkit12-04762.php?clickkey=5015617 Avery SS Firewall Pass-Thru]): [[File:Avery SS Pass-Thru.png|304x304px]]
* If you plan to install electronic injection (SDS or EFII) or a fuel purge valve, mirror the 9/16 hole over to the left side as you will need two.
===== Step 4 =====
* Several builders are reporting that part WD-1002-L-PC / WD-1002-R-PC is being labelled incorrectly. If you ended up with two of the same kind, Vans will be happy to swap them out.

===== Step 5 =====
It mentions fourteen K1000-3 nutplates but there aren't nearly that many shown on Figure 2. There are fifteen shown on page 27-5. I believe it is referring to all of the K1000-3s shown on 27-5 except the one on the F-1001G-R Gusset.

===== Step 6 =====
It mentions in Step 7 (and on page 27-5) that two of the nutplates are mounted on the forward side of the firewall. You will want to dimple opposite for the nutplate at the lower center of the firewall that is mounted on the forward side. The other nutplate that is mounted on the forward side is behind F-1001B so does not need to be dimpled on either side of F-1001A.

One of the nutplates mounted to F-1001B is mounted on the forward side of the firewall, which means you don't need to countersink the mounting holes into F-1001B for that one nutplate (as shown on page 27-5).

Note that every #30 and #40 hole on the firewall needs to be dimpled flush on the forward side except the two forward-mounted nutplates as already mentioned. Do NOT dimple any of the larger holes. The flanges also need to be dimpled to accept the forward fuselage skins.

===== Step 7 =====
*Note when riveting F-1001M Left Side Angle, you need to leave the 2 holes that intersect the Oil Cooler Box Attach Holes open so that they can be used to attach the oil cooler in Section FF1-2

==== PAGE 27-3 ====
* Step 1: be careful not to get too close to the nutplate pattern at the top of F-1048-R.
* Part F-1051J Scat Tube Support is installed on Page 50-2, Step 1.

==== PAGE 27-4 ====
* Step 1: In order to nest the aluminum and steel parts and make the holes align, it's necessary to file F-1001E-L/R as indicated in figure 1.
* Step 1: The WD-1004 nose gear tension fitting is the same part for left and right. The tooling hole will be on the upper rib on the left and the lower rib on the right side.
* Step 3: I think these need to be a bit deeper countersinks to fully fit the stainless dimples
* Step 5: Note that F-1001G-L gusset has a nutplate pattern but it isn't shown on the plans. I believe you do not need a nutplate on the left version (but you do need one on the F-1001G-R).
* Step 6: The manual doesn't spell out that you need to dimple the screw holes of the K1100-08 nutplates along the top (but not the screw holes for the K1000-08 nutplates along the bottom). See page 26-2, step 5 as reference.
* Step 6: Pay attention that the nutplates on the top edge of F-1048-L and F-1048-R are on the inside of the tunnel, while the nutplates that are on the bottom edge are on the outside of the tunnel (they will be under the front floors). At least one builder has put all nutplates on the inside of the tunnel even though the pictures clearly show otherwise.
* Step 8:
** If you are planning to use the Andair fuel selector you might want to hold off riveting the F-1048C-1 Fuel Valve Bracket to the fwd fuselage ribs, as the Andair selector does not fit this bracket.
** Check for a potential gap between the WD-1004 Nose Gear Tension Fittings and the firewall. If so, check for interference between the flange of the center angle and the F-1001C lower channel. The center angle and channel must be sitting flush with each other relative to the firewall. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7594620740658959 FB post].

==== PAGE 27-6 ====
Step 2: I don't know how you are supposed to rivet F-1039D to the firewall recess. My rivet gun won't fit into the recess. I used a double-offset back rivet head (not included in the standard tool kits for RV-10) on the inside of the firewall but it wasn't the cleanest rivet job.

If you will be using the stock oil cooler, now is the easiest time to rivet the mounting box onto the firewall. Consider doing all six steps from FF1-2 at this time.

Note: most people replace the aluminum TG-10-R and TG-10-L cabin heat selector boxes with stainless steel versions. You also might want to insulate the cabin from these valves so that heat doesn't transfer even when the valves are closed. See photos here: https://vansairforce.net/threads/whats-the-current-situation-with-tunnel-heat.229428/post-1791102
[[File:TG-10 insulation.jpg|thumb|Insulate valve door of TB-10 to prevent radiant heat from passing to the tunnel]]
Plans for the heat box are a 1 pager and separate to all the other Vans plans. A copy is here
[[File:Heat Box plans.jpg|thumb|Heat box plans]]

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS

2025-09-19T16:39:27Z

Kirkbauer: /* 29-5 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/29_10.pdf 29_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

== 29-2 ==
Note that when bending the longerons, the template has parts that are almost completely straight. It is easiest to identify that and avoid curving that part (don't just start curving everything at the start).

Also, follow the curve templates very carefully. The curve of the longerons affects the shape of your aircraft, the fit of the cargo door, the fit of some interior panels, etc. Even if you spend ten hours per longeron to get it exactly right that's time well spent.

Note that the "Aft Twist Mark" is not applicable for F-1013-L because it is the shorter longeron.

== 29-3 ==
The instructions don't specify, but you do the FWD TWIST on both longerons since the parts are symmetrical (other than the fact that one is shorter to accommodate the cargo door).

== 29-5 ==

Folding the skins can be pretty difficult, definitely take your time and get a consistent curve. Note that a 60-degree fold may be insufficient -- ultimately, the bottom edge needs to be a full 90 degrees from the side skin. You can force the final fold later with Clecos, but you can end up with a gap at the edge of the skin on the bottom. Suggestions:
* The forward (sharp) edge should be pretty much 90 degrees
* The trailing edge should be 70-75 degrees
* This applies to the fold on the forward side skin as well.
* You want to end up with a gradual curve, not a crease, especially on the trailing end. So you don't want to fold the skin, you want to roll it. Pushing down or even out while twisting should keep the skin in a curve instead of a bend.
See a [https://vansairforce.net/threads/section-29-side-skin-bending-a-good-reason-to-go-the-quick-build-route.237939/ discussion on VAF] for more details.

== 29-6 ==

Step 2 and especially Step 4 can be fiddly. Note that the thickness of the AA6-063 is 1/16" thick so consider using a scrap piece of that AA6-063 to make sure the 1/16" offset is implemented correctly.

== 29-7 ==

* Step 3: The number of holes in the top flanges of the F-1015C Mid Cabin Decks is one greater than the number of holes drilled into the F-1013 longerons using the template. Go ahead and match-drill that hole into the longerons.

== 29-9 ==

* Step 3: It is possible to violate the edge distance when match-drilling into the longeron. For example, if your longeron is not perfectly curved then the holes will not line up correctly. It's tough because you are match-drilling from underneath, but make sure that you are not drilling too close to the edge of the longeron. You can draw a line with your Sharpee at 3/16" from the outside edge of the lower flange and the color it in -- then use an inspection mirror when clamping onto the bracket below. If you can see any Sharpee through the holes then you are too close to the edge to match drill that hole.

== 29-11 ==
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4218804234907310 FB Post] on how to keep the skin and clamping block in place while bending.
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7830295577091473 FB Post] on how to use two angle pieces to clamp the skin.

== 29-12 ==

In the detail bubble for Figure 2, note that later you will be installing flush rivets into the side flanges of the F-1024E brackets. You should countersink for two AN426AD4 rivets into each of F-01042-L-1 and F-01042-R-1, flush on the aft side.

== 29-13 ==
Consider Markus's write-up to ensure the edge distance is met:
Step 1:
Match-Drill #40 the holes in the F-01069-L-1 & -R-1 Fwd Side Skins and the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels common to the WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Uncleco the Fwd Side Skins from the under the structure. This is not according to plans but makes it simpler to check the edge distance.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Upper Firewall Bracket with a Sharpie.
[[File:Image1.jpg]] 

Mark the center of the middle flange of the Upper Firewall Bracket and the Upper Fuse Channel.
[[File:Image2.jpg]] 

Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Upper Firewall Bracket tight against the Upper Fuse Channel.
[[File:Image3.jpg]] 

Make sure the center lines still align. Also, make sure that the edge distance lines cannot be seen through the holes of the Upper Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #40 the holes and Cleco as you go.
[[File:Image4.jpg]] 

Match-Drill #40 the holes in the fwd side skins and the F-1041-L and -R Lower Fuse Channels common to the WD-1003-L and -R Lower Firewall Brackets.
Use the same technique as described above.

== 29-13 step 3 ==
Separate from Markus's write up above, when I came to drill the four rivets holes
on page 29-13 step 3, I had problems which resulted in me having to make F-1013L again.
It is difficult to get a clamp in there as detailed in the instructions, and still have
space to get the drill in there.
So I used a different method which I later verified with Vans as being ok.

Once the #40 holes are drilled from the skin into F-1013, and generously cleco'ed,
the F-1013 will be nicely flush with the skin.
Then while holding the F-1013 against the F-1001J gusset,
drill the rear most #30 hole up from the gusset into the longeron.

Later once the skin is removed (29-14 step 8), the single hole in F-1013 can be cleco'ed,
the F-1013 clamped to the gusset and the remaining 3 holes drilled.

== 29-14 ==
* Step 2 Instead of drilling F-1013 through the F-1039J jig at this point, it is much easier (and more accurate) to wait until the F-1013 is removed and then drill these holes on the bench. I found it is more important to ensure that the F-1039J jig edge is parallel to the edge of F-1013 than to use the #30 rivet holes to set this. If those #30 holes are slightly off, the error will be magnified in the position of the rudder assembly bolt holes. If the F-1039J is not parallel to F-1013, remove all but one cleco, then make the jig parallel, then drill the most aft of the bolt hole. Cleco this hole and drill the remaining bolt holes.

* Step 5 When match drilling from the F-1001B angle into the WD-1002-L / WD-1002-R firewall steel brackets, be aware that it's easy to violate the edge distance in the steel bracket (2 x D, measured from the center of hole). The remedy is to temporarily install a bolt into the engine mount hole to pull the bracket into place and to use a clamp to move the steel bracket to increase edge distance. See [http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=nbnrv10&project=572&category=6009&log=254638&row=60 this build log] [[File:Screen Shot 2024-01-22 at 11.29.55 AM.png|300x300px]]
 See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4932489646872095/ FB post 4/17/2022] See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5936108719843511/ FB post 3/27/2023]

Also consider Markus's write-up for this page:
Step 4:
Match-Drill #30 the holes in the lower flange of the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels into the WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Upper Firewall Bracket with a Sharpie.
[[File:Image5.jpg]] 
Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Upper Firewall bracket tight against the Upper Fuse Channel. Use a small metal plate between the clamp and the upper and lower flange of the Upper Firewall Bracket to push the flanges in.
[[File:Image6.jpg]] 
Make sure that you cannot see the edge distance lines through the holes of the lower flange of the Upper Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #30 the holes. Cleco as you go.

Step 5:
Match-Drill #30 the holes in the F-1001B Firewall Upper Angle into the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels and WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Use the same technique as described above.
Match-Drill #30 the remaining holes aft of the firewall brackets common to the firewall upper angle and the upper fuse channels. Remove the Cleco from the aftmost hole common to these two parts and final-drill the hole #30 on both sides of the aircraft.

Step 6:
Match-drill #30 the holes along the upper and lower flanges of the F-1041-L and -R Lwr Fuse Channels into the WD-1003-L-PC and -R-PC Lower Firewall Brackets.
Make a mark on the Lwr Fuse Channel and Lower Firewall Bracket as long as the Fwd Side Skin is still Clecoed to the structure to make sure those parts align properly once the Fwd Side Skin is removed.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Lower Firewall Bracket with a sharpie.
Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Lower Firewall Bracket tight against the Lwr Fuse Channel. Use a small metal plate between the clamp and the upper and lower flange of the Lower Firewall Bracket to push the flanges in.
[[File:Image7.jpg]] 
Make sure that you cannot see the edge distance lines through the holes of the upper or lower flange of the Lwr Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #30 the holes. Cleco as you go.

* Step 9: It's not clear, but when countersinking the #40 outside holes on the F-1013 Forward Fuselage Longerons, you should do all of them -- the #40 holes common to both the F-01069 Fwd Sdie Skins and F-1070 Mid Side Skins. Additionally, do NOT countersink the #30 holes on the F-01004K Center Section Side Plates; only countersink the #40 holes on these pieces.

* Additional Step: Machine countersink the two #40 holes that are common from F-01088-R-1 tabs into F-010020R-1 and into F-01042-R-1. Repeat for the left side.

== 29-15 ==
* Questions on which holes to dimple? See [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5839137336207317 this FB thread]. Another [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6453842408070137 FB thread on the same topic]

* The instructions say, "Dimple the single hole in the forward tab of the F-01088-L -1 & -R-1 Fwd Fuselage Ribs". Dimple the aft tabs also.

== 29-16 ==
* Step 5: The most forward rivet on the bottom part of the lower firewall bracket is hard to reach. Some trim the top flange of the bracket to allow for using an offset rivet set, others use a large 16" Knipex pair of pliers with a makeshift die for the manufactured head. See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8092829177504777 FB thread]. [[File:Screenshot 2024-09-13 at 8.27.25 AM.png|300x300px]]

== 29-17 ==
* Some of the holes around the door opening are left open. You will cleco the door to the frame using those in order to 1) get the correct position of the door within the insert and 2) lock in the airframe shape into the door when bonding the door shells together. These blanks allow you a place to insert the clecos to hold it. Once the doors are bonded and door install complete, you then rivet those remaining. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9301782943276055 FB thread].
* Assuming you are not considering installing wiring under the rear floors (you shouldn't), you might consider installing the rear floor pans now before the side skins are installed, while it is easier to get access. See page 35-2.

== 29-18 ==

* On this page, do not rivet the skin holes for the F-01088-L-1 and F-01088-R-1 since you will not be installing those pieces until later.

== 29-19 ==
* If you are using the Aerosport interior side panels, don't install the VENT-0004 knob. The Aerosport side vents need a different extension lever which can only be attached once the panel is in place.
* The kit may not include the nylon washers 5610-90-31. They can be obtained at your local hardware store as #10 Nylon washer.

== 29-20 ==
* Don't rivet the forward cabin floor to the center tunnel walls if you are getting electronic injection (SDS or EFII), or intend to install access covers to the side of the tunnel as the rivet holes will be needed. For the SDS pump shelf, you will have 5 stock rivets counting from the front, then the next 11 are to be left out for the fuel pump shelf. For the access covers, see the instructions from Airward.

== 29-21 ==
* Around the start of 2021, Vans updated the design of the landing gear mount to address some concerns with cracking. If you received your fuselage kits after this, you received the SB-00007 kit with the fuselage kit. There's no explanation on how to apply this SB to a kit in construction.

* SB-00007 has been partly applied to new parts in the kit. In particular, the landing gear mount and the forward spar designs have been updated, but the side skins have not. The SB calls for enlarging some holes in the forward spar, however, those holes are already the correct size in newer kits (several 1/4in holes, and one 5/8in on each side). The SB includes two templates (VA-274 & VA-275) and two drill guides. These are not needed at all. The part of the SB that involves drilling into the side skins (F-1069, F-01004K & F-01004T) using the drill templates VA-277 & VA-278 '''''is necessary'''''.

* All of this is covered correctly in the plans. The instructions that come with SB-00007 do not need to be followed at all. If you have any doubts, please call Van's tech support.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 27: FIREWALL

2025-09-15T12:56:28Z

Kirkbauer: /* Step 6 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

'''Note: the firewall will really cut you up until you thoroughly deburr it; just another note here if you don't take the note seriously in the build instructions.'''

=== Videos ===
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dY1PJQr3pZk Austin Manke: RV-10 Firewall - Section 27]

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* Suggest using [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/firewall2000caulk.php Fire Caulk] instead of fuel tank sealant in/around the firewall (it can be used around F-1039D and in the next chapter on the lower flange of the firewall)
* You may need a [https://cleavelandtool.com/products/12-long-double-offset-back-rivet-set double-offset back rivet set] that wasn't mentioned in the official tool list

Modifications to Consider

* Consider upgrading the TG-10-R and TG-10-L cabin heat selector boxes to stainless steel: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/heaterbypass3.php
* It's not needed in this section but while ordering the stainless heat selector boxes, consider getting a [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/AN837-6.php steel fuel fitting] and [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/AN924-6.php steel nut]
* You might want 1ft of [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/koolmat.php koolmat] (see below)
* Consider how you want to pass control cables through the firewall (more details below)
* Consider putting one or two [https://www.airward.com/products/rv-10-tunnel-access-cs-screws-rv-10-tunnel-access-w-countersunk-screws side-access panels] for easier access to the tunnel later without having to remove the forward top cover.

=== Firewall Breakdown ===
You don't need to (and probably shouldn't) do any firewall customizations at this stage, but for current and future reference here is what the various firewall nutplates and penetrations are for per the plans. Note that most people do not need the manifold passthrough and that can be used for something else. Other people use a battery passthrough post instead of using the provided hole (the hole can be enlargened for that purpose). Most people need to add passthroughs for low-voltage wiring, nutplates for shunts or fuses, ground block, etc.

[[File:Firewall.png|thumb]]

=== Notes ===

==== PAGE 27-1 ====

You may want to trim the flanges of F-1001M Left Side Angle and F-1001D Right Side Angle. The bold text in Section 29, page 29-14 indicates that it is acceptable to do so, but I think it would be a lot easier to do it here. You'll need to be able to match-drill four holes and each end of each Side Angle is in the way of that match drill.

If you want to do this, you'll want to trim the flange (the part that points aft of the firewall) at each end of each part. I'd suggest trimming 3" from each end of each flange. Here is a picture showing what it looked like after I had to trim it later to give you an idea of the shape you'll need to cut out of the flanges.

[[File:2024-10-09 20.43.27.jpg|thumb|Trimmed bottom flange of F-1001M Left Side Angle in order to fit my angle drill bit in for the match drill.]]

==== PAGE 27-2 ====
* For additional info on the firewall in general, see also section [[QB_Fuselage]]

===== Step 3 =====
* Plan your control cables pass-throughs before drilling here -- you may not want to drill these even for a Lycoming engine.
* Some people have used an "eyeball" type here that may require different spacing than the pre-punched holes provided in the kit. Many use these for the control cable penetrations (at Spruce: [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/eyeballfw2.php EYEBALL FIREWALL FITTING- SS PRESSURE PLATE - STEEL TTP]): [[File:Eyeball Pass-thru.png]] More products are here: https://www.firewallfittings.com/product/ttp-s/ You may need to order custom diameter pass-throughs [https://www.firewallfittings.com/product/ttp-s-custom/ here], for example, the California "176-VTT"-type Push Pull cables have an OD of .34, so a custom OD of .345 may be appropriate. You can also order double hole ones [https://www.firewallfittings.com/product/ttp-s-custom/ here] [[File:Screen Shot 2023-09-18 at 9.23.27 PM.png|300px]].
* Look ahead in the plans to see if you want to do the double plastic bushing. The RV-14 kit uses an FF-00001 to penetrate the firewall: [[File:Ff-00001.png|659x659px]]
* Many people have used the following pass-thru with the RV-10 (at Spruce: [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/ssfirewallkit12-04762.php?clickkey=5015617 Avery SS Firewall Pass-Thru]): [[File:Avery SS Pass-Thru.png|304x304px]]
* If you plan to install electronic injection (SDS or EFII) or a fuel purge valve, mirror the 9/16 hole over to the left side as you will need two.
===== Step 4 =====
* Several builders are reporting that part WD-1002-L-PC / WD-1002-R-PC is being labelled incorrectly. If you ended up with two of the same kind, Vans will be happy to swap them out.

===== Step 5 =====
It mentions fourteen K1000-3 nutplates but there aren't nearly that many shown on Figure 2. There are fifteen shown on page 27-5. I believe it is referring to all of the K1000-3s shown on 27-5 except the one on the F-1001G-R Gusset.

===== Step 6 =====
It mentions in Step 7 (and on page 27-5) that two of the nutplates are mounted on the forward side of the firewall. You will want to dimple opposite for the nutplate at the lower center of the firewall that is mounted on the forward side. The other nutplate that is mounted on the forward side is behind F-1001B so does not need to be dimpled on either side of F-1001A.

One of the nutplates mounted to F-1001B is mounted on the forward side of the firewall, which means you don't need to countersink the mounting holes into F-1001B for that one nutplate (as shown on page 27-5).

Note that every #30 and #40 hole on the firewall needs to be dimpled flush on the forward side except the two forward-mounted nutplates as already mentioned. Do NOT dimple any of the larger holes. The flanges also need to be dimpled to accept the forward fuselage skins.

===== Step 7 =====
*Note when riveting F-1001M Left Side Angle, you need to leave the 2 holes that intersect the Oil Cooler Box Attach Holes open so that they can be used to attach the oil cooler in Section FF1-2

==== PAGE 27-3 ====
* Step 1: be careful not to get too close to the nutplate pattern at the top of F-1048-R.
* Part F-1051J Scat Tube Support is installed on Page 50-2, Step 1.

==== PAGE 27-4 ====
* Step 1: In order to nest the aluminum and steel parts and make the holes align, it's necessary to file F-1001E-L/R as indicated in figure 1.
* Step 1: The WD-1004 nose gear tension fitting is the same part for left and right. The tooling hole will be on the upper rib on the left and the lower rib on the right side.
* Step 3: I think these need to be a bit deeper countersinks to fully fit the stainless dimples
* Step 5: Note that F-1001G-L gusset has a nutplate pattern but it isn't shown on the plans. I believe you do not need a nutplate on the left version (but you do need one on the F-1001G-R).
* Step 6: The manual doesn't spell out that you need to dimple the screw holes of the K1100-08 nutplates along the top (but not the screw holes for the K1000-08 nutplates along the bottom). See page 26-2, step 5 as reference.
* Step 6: Pay attention that the nutplates on the top edge of F-1048-L and F-1048-R are on the inside of the tunnel, while the nutplates that are on the bottom edge are on the outside of the tunnel (they will be under the front floors). At least one builder has put all nutplates on the inside of the tunnel even though the pictures clearly show otherwise.
* Step 8:
** If you are planning to use the Andair fuel selector you might want to hold off riveting the F-1048C-1 Fuel Valve Bracket to the fwd fuselage ribs, as the Andair selector does not fit this bracket.
** Check for a potential gap between the WD-1004 Nose Gear Tension Fittings and the firewall. If so, check for interference between the flange of the center angle and the F-1001C lower channel. The center angle and channel must be sitting flush with each other relative to the firewall. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7594620740658959 FB post].

==== PAGE 27-6 ====
Step 2: I don't know how you are supposed to rivet F-1039D to the firewall recess. My rivet gun won't fit into the recess. I used a double-offset back rivet head (not included in the standard tool kits for RV-10) on the inside of the firewall but it wasn't the cleanest rivet job.

If you will be using the stock oil cooler, now is the easiest time to rivet the mounting box onto the firewall. Consider doing all six steps from FF1-2 at this time.

Note: most people replace the aluminum TG-10-R and TG-10-L cabin heat selector boxes with stainless steel versions. You also might want to insulate the cabin from these valves so that heat doesn't transfer even when the valves are closed. See photos here: https://vansairforce.net/threads/whats-the-current-situation-with-tunnel-heat.229428/post-1791102
[[File:TG-10 insulation.jpg|thumb|Insulate valve door of TB-10 to prevent radiant heat from passing to the tunnel]]
Plans for the heat box are a 1 pager and separate to all the other Vans plans. A copy is here
[[File:Heat Box plans.jpg|thumb|Heat box plans]]

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 46: ENGINE MOUNT & LANDING GEAR

2025-09-04T17:39:53Z

Kirkbauer:

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/06/20 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/46_10.pdf 46_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
-----
==== Page 46-02 ====
* If you are planning on using [[Skybolt Hints|Skybolt]] camlocks instead of hinge pins around the firewall, consider laying out those brackets after temporarily installing the engine mount (Step 1) to make sure you don't have interference with the engine mount and the fasteners. Then, after removing the engine mount (Step 2) it will be easier to rivet those in place.
* See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7827327290721635 FB thread] on how to check you have nuts with sufficient friction.
* Good results for the initial alignment can be achieved by centering the engine mount first using rubber embedded dowels. See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/2115940268527061/ this FB thread] [[File:Screen Shot 2023-04-24 at 6.46.40 AM.png|200x200px]] [[File:Screen Shot 2023-04-24 at 2.50.50 PM.png|200x200px]]
* Parts
**Steel dowels: McMaster 8893K178 Tight-Tolerance Oil-Hardening O1 Tool Steel Rod, 0.1875" Diameter, 3 Feet Long. Cut six 1 1/3 inch pieces off and chamfer.
**Rubber fuel line: Aircraft Spruce Part# 05-03597, OD 0.5 inch, ID 0.25 in, cut 6 pieces, 7/8 inch
** Silicone Tubing: [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RYD6G5K Amazon], OD 0.25 in, ID 5/32 in, cut 6 pieces, 7/8 inch
**.5 OD / .257 ID Nylon spacers to guide drilling (fits 1/4 inch drill bit, enlarge as you step up the hole to 3/8): [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-x-1-in-x-257-I-D-Nylon-Spacer-815018/204276572 Home Depot]
*Insert the silicone hose into the rubber hose.
*Insert the dowel into the silicone hose (tap it in using a hammer).
*Grease the outer side of the rubber hose before inserting the dowels into the six engine mount attach tubes from the front.
*Use a 3/16 drill and run through the 6 engine mount holes. Ensure the 3/16 dowels go in.
*Mount the engine mount. Some of the dowels will be pushed back, try gently to push them into the firewall holes using light taps.
*Remove one dowel at a time (using a punch from the inside, then grab it with nose pliers), drill up the hole using modified Nylon spacers to center the drill, and secure with a bolt. The drill steps are: [[File:2023-04-27 19-52-27.jpg|400x400px]]
** 3/16 (0.1875) original hole
** 5/16 (0.3125) Note: a 1/4 drill bit will bind / break off, better to do larger steps
** 23/64 (0.359375) Note: recommended hole size for reamer to finish up
** 3/8 reamer (0.375), e.g. [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076DMH4BF at Amazon]
* Note: Don't waste the single-use metal stop nuts yet, instead use AN6 castle nuts (from the kit, not used yet) or 3/8-24 hardware store nuts for the drill process.
* Note: AN6 bolts may vary in diameter between .371 and .374. If you ream the hole to .375, there might be some intentional play. Some 3/8 drill bits are only .371 which may lead to binding if you don't ream to .375.
* Note: Some of the 1/2 inch attachment tubes of the engine mount have reduced diameter spots inside from welding. The bushings may bind there. You might have to grind the bushing.
* Note: If you have issues getting the fuel hose out of the hole, use a hook or awl and pierce the hose and pull out. If you have issues getting the nylon bushings out, consider using a screw extractor, e.g. [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09W5PW588 Screw Extractor Set]
* Note: Washer-00017 is raw steel and will corrode if not coated or greased.

====Page 46-04====
* Step 1: You need to remove the powder coating from the areas that need to engage with the main gear weldings, see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8370057203115305 FB post].
====Page 46-06====
*Don't forget to grease the bushings on their outside.
* Tighten the castle nuts to spec, the bushing itself must not rotate. Check that the parts riding on the outside of the bushings still rotate after torquing the castle nuts. If not, see figure 1, it says to remove some of the powder coating if necessary.
* Check for any play in the horizontal bolt / bushing setup, also see this [https://www.facebook.com/reel/1723270615230761 FB thread].

[[Category:Hints]]