RV10 Community Wiki - User contributions [en]

Aerosport Hints

2026-03-04T13:05:50Z

Jasonbeall2002: /* Front side panels */

=== Hints for installing Aerosport Interior Products ===
==== Carbon Fiber ====

If you want nice and shiny carbon fiber, there are [https://www.aerosportproducts.com/resources/ instructions on Aerosport's website]. For a clear gloss coat, in an email conversion, they recommended Cerakote MC-160. Simply scuff the carbon fiber with 320+ grit sandpaper so there is nothing shiny left, then clean and dry the carbon fiber. For the MC-160, mix well and put through a filter as recommended before loading into your spray paint gun. One 4oz bottle of MC-160 should be enough for the carbon fiber panel, overhead console, and center console.

==== Panel ====
* [https://www.youtube.com/@GoodPlaneLiving/videos Ed's 28 video series on the panel install]. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAsYtlwupvk Video 1]
* If you are installing Garmin GDUs you probably just need to trim the carbon fiber to fit the installation bracket but not the aluminum frame -- if you attach the bracket to the back of the panel inserts, it will roughly end up at the level of the carbon fiber but not as deep as the aluminum frame. The exception is the corners where the nutplates are located.
* You will probably be creating/using three insert panels (left, center, right) and will have to cut out the carbon fiber for those. For the center panel, you will probably need nutplates attached to the carbon fiber for the insert panel. But for the left/right panels, the nutplates will probably need to be installed on the aluminum support frame since the carbon fiber sits flush with that.
* For an issue with the initial alignment of the 310 panel, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/24943767405317690/ FB post].

==== Front side panels ====
* The recessed map pockets / cup holders occupy the space between the outer skin and the inside wall thus interfering with thicker battery cables or AC hoses that might be run across this section.
* Consider temporarily installing and drilling the mounting holes for the front side panels prior to riveting the 'upper forward assembly' in place. Considerably easier to drill the mounting holes when you can look over the side fuselage skin.
* Multiple builders have reported that SEM color coat 'Presidio' (rattle can paint) is a close match for the Aerosport dark grey plastic color (for painting adjacent trim etc).

==== Rear side panels ====
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9CJKVS0FF0 Ed's rear side panel install]
* Easier to temporarily install and drill mounting holes before the side windows are installed.

==== Door Handle Covers ====
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8395962310524794 FB post]

==== Overhead Console ====
* [https://www.aerosportproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/RV-10-Overhead-Install.pdf Aerosport installation manual]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlTjJ18s_oc Aerosport Installation Video] same as [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNUGjxtQ6RI Ed's Installation Video]
* Rear end bulk head interface, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5681512561969796 FB Thread 2/2024]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6737024223085286 FB Thread 11/2023]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7251416044979432 FB Thread on adhesive 4/2024]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7927760794011617 FB Thread on interference with rear bulkhead 8/2024]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9519719771482370 FB Thread] 4/2025 (same topic as above, riveting)
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9815971658523845 FB Thread] 6/2025 on installation
* If you attach the console to the cabin top prior to installing the cabin top, it is easier, but you'll also cover up a handful of the rivet holes at the aft top center of the cabin top. With careful alignment of the overhead console and some trimming of the aft flanges you can have enough room to get a pop rivet into every hole that is under the cabin top.
* You need to match drill the door strut attach brackets to the canopy before attaching the overhead console. This may also involve notching the overhead console for the bracket.
* If you have a '''BRS parachute''', don't install the overhead console early. You first need to install the cabin top permanently, then rivet the top skin (at least the center section), then secure the BRS gussets, only then permanently attach the overhead console. Consider feeding the AC air into the overhead console from below via two scat tube inlets. Since the air isn't then coming through the bulkhead, consider shortening the overhead console and closing it off at the rear end before installation.
[[File:2025-03-18 16.54.47.jpg|thumb|Overhead console after being attached to cabin top with epoxy. Fiberglass over the flanges. The rear flanges are not particularly finished because they will be covered by headliner. The front has nutplates and a wiring hole for the overhead switch module.]]

==== Carpet ====
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6666553303465712 FB Post on what to do with rear crotch strap.]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6748698651917843 FB Post on carpet / arm rest overlap]

==== Armrest with Throttle Quadrant ====
* [https://www.aerosportproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/armrest.pdf Installation Instructions]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tjVtVQIsTVs Installation Video]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7025842644203441 FB thread on cable routing]
* [http://www.strikhedonia.com/tunnel-done-know-heard/ Christopher's build log on cable routing]
* See also [[SECTION_FF3:_CONTROL_CABLES]]
* Good tools for trimming carbon fiber:
** [https://www.panamericantool.com/novar-pencil-grinder.html Pencil grinder]
** [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-1-1-4-in-Rotary-Tool-Carbide-Cutting-Shaping-Wheel-for-Use-on-Woods-Fiberglass-Plastics-and-Laminates-543/202315728 Dremel Cutting / Shaping Wheel]
* Hints
** Don't dimple #8 the tunnel cover side holes in the area where the armrest will sit.
** The friction lock hole in the carbon fiber on the side needs to be large enough for the black tensioner stem to fit through and sit against the throttle quadrant, not pinch the carbon fiber.
** Consider adding washers to the throttle handle bolt on both sides as the machined part is very thin just around the holes (Holes were made with a drill bit rather than with a router bit).
** The 4 steel screws that hold the bottom mounting angles on the sides are not corrosion protected and don't harmonize with aluminum. Consider replacing them with stainless ones.
**The position of the handle locks in on the top (selector side), not at the valve. It is absolutely necessary to properly align the valve and the selector assembly, otherwise the paths in the valve are not guaranteed. You can switch between left and right just by turning the selector but you need to pull the lock pin between right and off.
**Please note that the individual ports of the Andair fuel valve need to be secured with 4 screws each that get peened. Andair may ship some ports only temporarily placed without any screws. They are in the hardware bag that comes with the valve.
** If you have the Aerosport panel with a center console, the fore/aft position is determined by mating the arm rest with the center console. The general order is shown in the instructional video.
** If you have a stock panel, the fore/aft position is determined by where you want the fuel valve handle to sit. Not too close behind the throttle quadrant so you can reach it and not too for forward as the throttle quadrant may be too far aft. Steps for placing the armrest with a stock panel:
*** Make a roughly 2.5 x 4.5 inch doubler for the Andair fuel valve from 63 to 80/1000 inch thick aluminum (e.g. from [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/alumsheet_2024t3.php Spruce]).
*** Put a 30 mm hole in the middle with a step drill bit (1 1/4 inch). Note: Mark the hole's circumference so you notice when the step drill bit starts wandering off your desired center. Best to do it in a drill press with the doubler strapped down.
*** Clamp the doubler below the Vans fuel valve bracket with the center hole aligned (later to be mounted on top of the bracket).
*** Pick 6 outer locations and drill #30 holes with good edge distance for 1/8th rivets to secure the doubler to the Van's bracket. [[File:2023-07-15 19-03-28.jpg|300px]] First rough trim back of the Van's fuel valve bracket. Note: the doubler will later sit on top. [[File:2023-08-11 19-41-02.jpg|533x533px]]
*** Trim the Van's fuel valve bracket so the Andair valve fits onto the doubler. Note that the tunnel walls may shift inwards without the bracket in place. You might have to spread them a bit to cleco your doubler plate in place lateron.
*** Change the order and put the doubler on top of the Van's bracket and check clearance to the Andair valve.
*** Mount the valve and insert the extension tube.
*** Upsize the fuel valve hole in the tunnel cover so the extension fits easily through it. A [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BN60XW hand nibbler] can clear away the uneven original shape so you can finish up with a step drill bit.
*** Secure the tunnel cover to the tunnel with 4 bolts. [[File:2023-07-15 19-07-18.jpg|400x400px]].
*** Mark the extension where it comes out of the cover.
*** Mount the Fuel selector at the desired spot into the armrest and stick the extension into it. Note: Mark the hole's circumference on painter's tape so you notice when the step drill bit starts wandering off your desired center.
*** Clamp the tunnel cover into the armrest with the extension centered in the cover hole and the bottom edges aligning (there might be interference at the friction lock recess - trim back carefully). [[File:2023-07-15 19-32-20.jpg|400px]]
*** Temporarily mark and measure how much of the extension is needed from the tunnel cover to the fuel selector.
*** Add a 1/4 inch of reserve to the measurement and add it to the first marked position where the extension came out of the cover and trim the extension.
*** Assemble everything, find the sweet spot for the extension to not be under tension and mark the armrest mounting holes using a hole finder. Check the length of the extension. It should have a tiny bit of slack up and down. Trim it a bit if under tension. [[File:2023-07-15 19-58-09.jpg|400x400px]] Test fit the placement with the extension in place.
***Drill a 7/64 hole for the slotted spring pin through the valve end of the extension using the two holes of the valve fitting as a guide. Insert the pin with a hammer to secure the extension to the valve.
*** If you have the stock panel, consider closing off the front end of the armrest with a 3D-printed part, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9137836466337371 FB post].

[[Category:Optional]]

Aerosport Hints

2026-03-04T13:04:51Z

Jasonbeall2002: /* Front side panels */

=== Hints for installing Aerosport Interior Products ===
==== Carbon Fiber ====

If you want nice and shiny carbon fiber, there are [https://www.aerosportproducts.com/resources/ instructions on Aerosport's website]. For a clear gloss coat, in an email conversion, they recommended Cerakote MC-160. Simply scuff the carbon fiber with 320+ grit sandpaper so there is nothing shiny left, then clean and dry the carbon fiber. For the MC-160, mix well and put through a filter as recommended before loading into your spray paint gun. One 4oz bottle of MC-160 should be enough for the carbon fiber panel, overhead console, and center console.

==== Panel ====
* [https://www.youtube.com/@GoodPlaneLiving/videos Ed's 28 video series on the panel install]. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAsYtlwupvk Video 1]
* If you are installing Garmin GDUs you probably just need to trim the carbon fiber to fit the installation bracket but not the aluminum frame -- if you attach the bracket to the back of the panel inserts, it will roughly end up at the level of the carbon fiber but not as deep as the aluminum frame. The exception is the corners where the nutplates are located.
* You will probably be creating/using three insert panels (left, center, right) and will have to cut out the carbon fiber for those. For the center panel, you will probably need nutplates attached to the carbon fiber for the insert panel. But for the left/right panels, the nutplates will probably need to be installed on the aluminum support frame since the carbon fiber sits flush with that.
* For an issue with the initial alignment of the 310 panel, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/24943767405317690/ FB post].

==== Front side panels ====
* The recessed map pockets / cup holders occupy the space between the outer skin and the inside wall thus interfering with thicker battery cables or AC hoses that might be run across this section.
* Consider temporarily installing and drilling the mounting holes for the front side panels prior to riveting the 'upper forward assembly' in place. Considerably easier to drill the mounting holes when you can look over the side fuselage skin.
* Multiple builders have reported that SEM color coat 'Presidio' (rattle can paint) is a close match for the dark grey plastic color (for painting adjacent trim etc).

==== Rear side panels ====
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9CJKVS0FF0 Ed's rear side panel install]
* Easier to temporarily install and drill mounting holes before the side windows are installed.

==== Door Handle Covers ====
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8395962310524794 FB post]

==== Overhead Console ====
* [https://www.aerosportproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/RV-10-Overhead-Install.pdf Aerosport installation manual]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlTjJ18s_oc Aerosport Installation Video] same as [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNUGjxtQ6RI Ed's Installation Video]
* Rear end bulk head interface, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5681512561969796 FB Thread 2/2024]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6737024223085286 FB Thread 11/2023]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7251416044979432 FB Thread on adhesive 4/2024]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7927760794011617 FB Thread on interference with rear bulkhead 8/2024]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9519719771482370 FB Thread] 4/2025 (same topic as above, riveting)
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9815971658523845 FB Thread] 6/2025 on installation
* If you attach the console to the cabin top prior to installing the cabin top, it is easier, but you'll also cover up a handful of the rivet holes at the aft top center of the cabin top. With careful alignment of the overhead console and some trimming of the aft flanges you can have enough room to get a pop rivet into every hole that is under the cabin top.
* You need to match drill the door strut attach brackets to the canopy before attaching the overhead console. This may also involve notching the overhead console for the bracket.
* If you have a '''BRS parachute''', don't install the overhead console early. You first need to install the cabin top permanently, then rivet the top skin (at least the center section), then secure the BRS gussets, only then permanently attach the overhead console. Consider feeding the AC air into the overhead console from below via two scat tube inlets. Since the air isn't then coming through the bulkhead, consider shortening the overhead console and closing it off at the rear end before installation.
[[File:2025-03-18 16.54.47.jpg|thumb|Overhead console after being attached to cabin top with epoxy. Fiberglass over the flanges. The rear flanges are not particularly finished because they will be covered by headliner. The front has nutplates and a wiring hole for the overhead switch module.]]

==== Carpet ====
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6666553303465712 FB Post on what to do with rear crotch strap.]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6748698651917843 FB Post on carpet / arm rest overlap]

==== Armrest with Throttle Quadrant ====
* [https://www.aerosportproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/armrest.pdf Installation Instructions]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tjVtVQIsTVs Installation Video]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7025842644203441 FB thread on cable routing]
* [http://www.strikhedonia.com/tunnel-done-know-heard/ Christopher's build log on cable routing]
* See also [[SECTION_FF3:_CONTROL_CABLES]]
* Good tools for trimming carbon fiber:
** [https://www.panamericantool.com/novar-pencil-grinder.html Pencil grinder]
** [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-1-1-4-in-Rotary-Tool-Carbide-Cutting-Shaping-Wheel-for-Use-on-Woods-Fiberglass-Plastics-and-Laminates-543/202315728 Dremel Cutting / Shaping Wheel]
* Hints
** Don't dimple #8 the tunnel cover side holes in the area where the armrest will sit.
** The friction lock hole in the carbon fiber on the side needs to be large enough for the black tensioner stem to fit through and sit against the throttle quadrant, not pinch the carbon fiber.
** Consider adding washers to the throttle handle bolt on both sides as the machined part is very thin just around the holes (Holes were made with a drill bit rather than with a router bit).
** The 4 steel screws that hold the bottom mounting angles on the sides are not corrosion protected and don't harmonize with aluminum. Consider replacing them with stainless ones.
**The position of the handle locks in on the top (selector side), not at the valve. It is absolutely necessary to properly align the valve and the selector assembly, otherwise the paths in the valve are not guaranteed. You can switch between left and right just by turning the selector but you need to pull the lock pin between right and off.
**Please note that the individual ports of the Andair fuel valve need to be secured with 4 screws each that get peened. Andair may ship some ports only temporarily placed without any screws. They are in the hardware bag that comes with the valve.
** If you have the Aerosport panel with a center console, the fore/aft position is determined by mating the arm rest with the center console. The general order is shown in the instructional video.
** If you have a stock panel, the fore/aft position is determined by where you want the fuel valve handle to sit. Not too close behind the throttle quadrant so you can reach it and not too for forward as the throttle quadrant may be too far aft. Steps for placing the armrest with a stock panel:
*** Make a roughly 2.5 x 4.5 inch doubler for the Andair fuel valve from 63 to 80/1000 inch thick aluminum (e.g. from [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/alumsheet_2024t3.php Spruce]).
*** Put a 30 mm hole in the middle with a step drill bit (1 1/4 inch). Note: Mark the hole's circumference so you notice when the step drill bit starts wandering off your desired center. Best to do it in a drill press with the doubler strapped down.
*** Clamp the doubler below the Vans fuel valve bracket with the center hole aligned (later to be mounted on top of the bracket).
*** Pick 6 outer locations and drill #30 holes with good edge distance for 1/8th rivets to secure the doubler to the Van's bracket. [[File:2023-07-15 19-03-28.jpg|300px]] First rough trim back of the Van's fuel valve bracket. Note: the doubler will later sit on top. [[File:2023-08-11 19-41-02.jpg|533x533px]]
*** Trim the Van's fuel valve bracket so the Andair valve fits onto the doubler. Note that the tunnel walls may shift inwards without the bracket in place. You might have to spread them a bit to cleco your doubler plate in place lateron.
*** Change the order and put the doubler on top of the Van's bracket and check clearance to the Andair valve.
*** Mount the valve and insert the extension tube.
*** Upsize the fuel valve hole in the tunnel cover so the extension fits easily through it. A [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BN60XW hand nibbler] can clear away the uneven original shape so you can finish up with a step drill bit.
*** Secure the tunnel cover to the tunnel with 4 bolts. [[File:2023-07-15 19-07-18.jpg|400x400px]].
*** Mark the extension where it comes out of the cover.
*** Mount the Fuel selector at the desired spot into the armrest and stick the extension into it. Note: Mark the hole's circumference on painter's tape so you notice when the step drill bit starts wandering off your desired center.
*** Clamp the tunnel cover into the armrest with the extension centered in the cover hole and the bottom edges aligning (there might be interference at the friction lock recess - trim back carefully). [[File:2023-07-15 19-32-20.jpg|400px]]
*** Temporarily mark and measure how much of the extension is needed from the tunnel cover to the fuel selector.
*** Add a 1/4 inch of reserve to the measurement and add it to the first marked position where the extension came out of the cover and trim the extension.
*** Assemble everything, find the sweet spot for the extension to not be under tension and mark the armrest mounting holes using a hole finder. Check the length of the extension. It should have a tiny bit of slack up and down. Trim it a bit if under tension. [[File:2023-07-15 19-58-09.jpg|400x400px]] Test fit the placement with the extension in place.
***Drill a 7/64 hole for the slotted spring pin through the valve end of the extension using the two holes of the valve fitting as a guide. Insert the pin with a hammer to secure the extension to the valve.
*** If you have the stock panel, consider closing off the front end of the armrest with a 3D-printed part, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9137836466337371 FB post].

[[Category:Optional]]

Aerosport Hints

2026-03-02T14:59:03Z

Jasonbeall2002: /* Front side panels */

=== Hints for installing Aerosport Interior Products ===
==== Carbon Fiber ====

If you want nice and shiny carbon fiber, there are [https://www.aerosportproducts.com/resources/ instructions on Aerosport's website]. For a clear gloss coat, in an email conversion, they recommended Cerakote MC-160. Simply scuff the carbon fiber with 320+ grit sandpaper so there is nothing shiny left, then clean and dry the carbon fiber. For the MC-160, mix well and put through a filter as recommended before loading into your spray paint gun. One 4oz bottle of MC-160 should be enough for the carbon fiber panel, overhead console, and center console.

==== Panel ====
* [https://www.youtube.com/@GoodPlaneLiving/videos Ed's 28 video series on the panel install]. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAsYtlwupvk Video 1]
* If you are installing Garmin GDUs you probably just need to trim the carbon fiber to fit the installation bracket but not the aluminum frame -- if you attach the bracket to the back of the panel inserts, it will roughly end up at the level of the carbon fiber but not as deep as the aluminum frame. The exception is the corners where the nutplates are located.
* You will probably be creating/using three insert panels (left, center, right) and will have to cut out the carbon fiber for those. For the center panel, you will probably need nutplates attached to the carbon fiber for the insert panel. But for the left/right panels, the nutplates will probably need to be installed on the aluminum support frame since the carbon fiber sits flush with that.
* For an issue with the initial alignment of the 310 panel, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/24943767405317690/ FB post].

==== Front side panels ====
* The recessed map pockets / cup holders occupy the space between the outer skin and the inside wall thus interfering with thicker battery cables or AC hoses that might be run across this section.
* Consider temporarily installing and drilling the mounting holes for the front side panels prior to riveting the 'upper forward assembly' in place. Considerably easier to drill the mounting holes when you can look over the side fuselage skin.

==== Rear side panels ====
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9CJKVS0FF0 Ed's rear side panel install]
* Easier to temporarily install and drill mounting holes before the side windows are installed.

==== Door Handle Covers ====
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8395962310524794 FB post]

==== Overhead Console ====
* [https://www.aerosportproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/RV-10-Overhead-Install.pdf Aerosport installation manual]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlTjJ18s_oc Aerosport Installation Video] same as [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNUGjxtQ6RI Ed's Installation Video]
* Rear end bulk head interface, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5681512561969796 FB Thread 2/2024]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6737024223085286 FB Thread 11/2023]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7251416044979432 FB Thread on adhesive 4/2024]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7927760794011617 FB Thread on interference with rear bulkhead 8/2024]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9519719771482370 FB Thread] 4/2025 (same topic as above, riveting)
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9815971658523845 FB Thread] 6/2025 on installation
* If you attach the console to the cabin top prior to installing the cabin top, it is easier, but you'll also cover up a handful of the rivet holes at the aft top center of the cabin top. With careful alignment of the overhead console and some trimming of the aft flanges you can have enough room to get a pop rivet into every hole that is under the cabin top.
* You need to match drill the door strut attach brackets to the canopy before attaching the overhead console. This may also involve notching the overhead console for the bracket.
* If you have a '''BRS parachute''', don't install the overhead console early. You first need to install the cabin top permanently, then rivet the top skin (at least the center section), then secure the BRS gussets, only then permanently attach the overhead console. Consider feeding the AC air into the overhead console from below via two scat tube inlets. Since the air isn't then coming through the bulkhead, consider shortening the overhead console and closing it off at the rear end before installation.
[[File:2025-03-18 16.54.47.jpg|thumb|Overhead console after being attached to cabin top with epoxy. Fiberglass over the flanges. The rear flanges are not particularly finished because they will be covered by headliner. The front has nutplates and a wiring hole for the overhead switch module.]]

==== Carpet ====
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6666553303465712 FB Post on what to do with rear crotch strap.]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6748698651917843 FB Post on carpet / arm rest overlap]

==== Armrest with Throttle Quadrant ====
* [https://www.aerosportproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/armrest.pdf Installation Instructions]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tjVtVQIsTVs Installation Video]
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7025842644203441 FB thread on cable routing]
* [http://www.strikhedonia.com/tunnel-done-know-heard/ Christopher's build log on cable routing]
* See also [[SECTION_FF3:_CONTROL_CABLES]]
* Good tools for trimming carbon fiber:
** [https://www.panamericantool.com/novar-pencil-grinder.html Pencil grinder]
** [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-1-1-4-in-Rotary-Tool-Carbide-Cutting-Shaping-Wheel-for-Use-on-Woods-Fiberglass-Plastics-and-Laminates-543/202315728 Dremel Cutting / Shaping Wheel]
* Hints
** Don't dimple #8 the tunnel cover side holes in the area where the armrest will sit.
** The friction lock hole in the carbon fiber on the side needs to be large enough for the black tensioner stem to fit through and sit against the throttle quadrant, not pinch the carbon fiber.
** Consider adding washers to the throttle handle bolt on both sides as the machined part is very thin just around the holes (Holes were made with a drill bit rather than with a router bit).
** The 4 steel screws that hold the bottom mounting angles on the sides are not corrosion protected and don't harmonize with aluminum. Consider replacing them with stainless ones.
**The position of the handle locks in on the top (selector side), not at the valve. It is absolutely necessary to properly align the valve and the selector assembly, otherwise the paths in the valve are not guaranteed. You can switch between left and right just by turning the selector but you need to pull the lock pin between right and off.
**Please note that the individual ports of the Andair fuel valve need to be secured with 4 screws each that get peened. Andair may ship some ports only temporarily placed without any screws. They are in the hardware bag that comes with the valve.
** If you have the Aerosport panel with a center console, the fore/aft position is determined by mating the arm rest with the center console. The general order is shown in the instructional video.
** If you have a stock panel, the fore/aft position is determined by where you want the fuel valve handle to sit. Not too close behind the throttle quadrant so you can reach it and not too for forward as the throttle quadrant may be too far aft. Steps for placing the armrest with a stock panel:
*** Make a roughly 2.5 x 4.5 inch doubler for the Andair fuel valve from 63 to 80/1000 inch thick aluminum (e.g. from [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/alumsheet_2024t3.php Spruce]).
*** Put a 30 mm hole in the middle with a step drill bit (1 1/4 inch). Note: Mark the hole's circumference so you notice when the step drill bit starts wandering off your desired center. Best to do it in a drill press with the doubler strapped down.
*** Clamp the doubler below the Vans fuel valve bracket with the center hole aligned (later to be mounted on top of the bracket).
*** Pick 6 outer locations and drill #30 holes with good edge distance for 1/8th rivets to secure the doubler to the Van's bracket. [[File:2023-07-15 19-03-28.jpg|300px]] First rough trim back of the Van's fuel valve bracket. Note: the doubler will later sit on top. [[File:2023-08-11 19-41-02.jpg|533x533px]]
*** Trim the Van's fuel valve bracket so the Andair valve fits onto the doubler. Note that the tunnel walls may shift inwards without the bracket in place. You might have to spread them a bit to cleco your doubler plate in place lateron.
*** Change the order and put the doubler on top of the Van's bracket and check clearance to the Andair valve.
*** Mount the valve and insert the extension tube.
*** Upsize the fuel valve hole in the tunnel cover so the extension fits easily through it. A [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BN60XW hand nibbler] can clear away the uneven original shape so you can finish up with a step drill bit.
*** Secure the tunnel cover to the tunnel with 4 bolts. [[File:2023-07-15 19-07-18.jpg|400x400px]].
*** Mark the extension where it comes out of the cover.
*** Mount the Fuel selector at the desired spot into the armrest and stick the extension into it. Note: Mark the hole's circumference on painter's tape so you notice when the step drill bit starts wandering off your desired center.
*** Clamp the tunnel cover into the armrest with the extension centered in the cover hole and the bottom edges aligning (there might be interference at the friction lock recess - trim back carefully). [[File:2023-07-15 19-32-20.jpg|400px]]
*** Temporarily mark and measure how much of the extension is needed from the tunnel cover to the fuel selector.
*** Add a 1/4 inch of reserve to the measurement and add it to the first marked position where the extension came out of the cover and trim the extension.
*** Assemble everything, find the sweet spot for the extension to not be under tension and mark the armrest mounting holes using a hole finder. Check the length of the extension. It should have a tiny bit of slack up and down. Trim it a bit if under tension. [[File:2023-07-15 19-58-09.jpg|400x400px]] Test fit the placement with the extension in place.
***Drill a 7/64 hole for the slotted spring pin through the valve end of the extension using the two holes of the valve fitting as a guide. Insert the pin with a hammer to secure the extension to the valve.
*** If you have the stock panel, consider closing off the front end of the armrest with a 3D-printed part, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9137836466337371 FB post].

[[Category:Optional]]

Yaw Damper Servo

2025-11-05T16:33:28Z

Jasonbeall2002: Added note about G3X right angle connector.

[[File:Garmin tail servos.jpg|711x711px]] Garmin brackets

If you intend on installing a yaw damper servo as part of your autopilot package, there are a few things to note:

First, you should plan to do the work of installing the mounting hardware early on in the build process of the tailcone. It's much easier to do while you still have good access to the cone!

Second, note that Vans sells mounting hardware for the RV14, but not the RV10. However, the hardware will work pretty well with the -10. This thread in the forums has good information (https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=153870), see also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8084856978301997 FB thread].

Specifically for the G3X, Garmin sells a mounting bracket kit for $750! You can use the Vans kit for a much cheaper cost. There is nothing about the Garmin kit that justifies the price other than people are willing to pay it.

For the G3X yaw servo, note that you need Garmin part number 011-02950-01 (right angle servo connector kit) The 'standard' GSA-28 servo connector kit will interfere with the elevator pushrod, hence the need for the right angle connector.

Note: The elevator pushrods are later threaded in from the rear through the opening between the F-1037B/C ribs with the F-1035 battery / bellcrank removed. Therefore, the installation of F-1035 and the servos is of temporary nature at this point of the build.

[[Category:Options]]

SECTION 43: CABIN COVER

2025-06-13T20:34:11Z

Jasonbeall2002: /* Hints */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* N/A
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* This is by far the most fiberglass cutting/sanding you probably have done so far this build.
** Consider a good belt sander and plenty of replacement belts
** Use an angle-grinder or a die grinder with plenty of air supply -- consider diamond or masonry cutting discs
* Fiberglass Dust Protection
** [https://www.uline.com/BL_1637/3M-Paint-Project-Respirators?keywords=3m+respirator 3M Respirator]
** [https://www.harborfreight.com/full-coverage-disposable-protective-suit-x-large-59264.html coverall with hood]
** [https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/hobbyair.php?clickkey=16415 HobbyAir fresh air respirator] (pumps clean air from remote location into mask). Full face mask also protects dust getting into your eyes / face.)

Modifications to Consider

* If you will be painting your interior, it may be easier to do an initial painting of the cabin top before attaching it (you'll need to touch it up later). Note that when you start working on the doors you will need to either clamp them to the cabin top or some people prefer to drill temporary cleco holes. If you prefer the latter then you may not want to paint until after the doors are done.
* Some people run conduit for wires up the pillars on either side of the windscreen -- you'll want to do that before permanently attaching the cabin top (other people just run wires up the center support bar instead)
* If installing an [https://www.aerosportproducts.com/product/rv-10-carbon-fiber-overhead-console/ AeroSport Overhead Console] it will be easier to fit and attach it before attaching the cabin top

=== Resources ===

==== Related Pages ====
* [[Door Locks / Hinges / Handles|Door Seals]]

==== Posts ====
* [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6271632386291141 FB 7/23]
* [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=206804 VAF 5/21]

==== Videos ====
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xfFgaco04lg Craig's video]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8PkDpp3_yaI BuildFlyGo's video 1]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GD6w_hotyQ BuildFlyGo's video 2]
* A leaf on the Wind Videos
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JvmB2EDpnPI cabin top part 1]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4top4ZMhec cabin top part 2]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_Szps8EbRU cabin top part 3]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fZUcVxErXM cabin top part 4]

* Rodrigo Damazio Bovendorp' videos
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87uc-8NvbnE Cabin Cover 1]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAhOOzAMrv0 Cabin Cover 2]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HmQgmbdjh18 Cabin Cover 3]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wEIomP9hEPA Cabin Cover 4]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5WL5ypHJTRI Cabin Cover 5]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80ZSJNI8k30 Cabin Cover 6]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QD0hK9_cg5w Cabin Cover 7]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_WvbSfOukc Cabin Cover 8]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YYSrE1i8X0 Cabin Cover 9]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YRN7ohC4B6w Cabin Cover 10]
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1lsYAIfMHDM Cabin Cover 11]

=== Hints ===
*(D. Peterson) This is time consuming, but it isn't rocket science. It is an expensive part & you don't want to mess it up, but be methodical & patient and it will be fine. We started with Dremels with Permagrit cutoff disks and also a Dewalt oscillating tool with a "fast wood" blade which worked surprisingly well (get a couple extra blades). I tried a jigsaw, but the blades I had dulled super fast. The 40 grit paper on a belt sander worked very well for the closer work and getting the bottom and sides of the door thin enough. We traced the scribe line with a fine tip sharpie and rough cut to that, then worked our way down until it fit. We probably put it on and off the airplane 15-20 times, which is a bit of a pain, but not bad in the big scheme of things. I now understand what people mean when they say it gets "razor thin"; the edges get very sharp as you get close to the end. Use caution! One thing we did wrong at first was trying fit the aft edge of the Upper Fwd Fuse OUTSIDE the cabin top. It doesn't work well that way. The skin goes INSIDE the cabin top. Seems obvious now. See pic. One thing we did toward the end of the door bottom was get a micrometer out and get average current readings, subtract 0.0625 (our goal of thinning for that round) so we had a goal to trim to. If you do this, mark your micrometer so you are sticking it "into" the cabin edge the same amount (the fiberglass tapers, so the depth of material into the throat of the micrometer affects your measurement). Before it got too thin we were drawing thin permanent marker lines to trim to. I second breathing protection, safety glasses, and hearing protection at least. We also used the air hose to blow ourselves off numerous times. Good luck. It took two of us about a day and a half. It wasn't as bad as I expected. [[File:Upper Fwd Fuse vs. Cabin Top.png|400px|Aft edge of Upper Fwd Fuse needs to go to the INTERIOR of the cabin top door frame.]]
* There are several tools that work well for trimming fiberglass.
** Note: Vans ships three 3 inch cutting discs with the kit. You might want to preserve those for trimming the acrylic windows or buy more ([https://store.vansaircraft.com/norton-cutting-disc-3-tool-3-cutting-disc.html Norton disc at Vans with 1/4" hole]), or 25-pack [https://www.amazon.com/Type-Gemini-Reinforced-Cut-Off-Wheels/dp/B01M0DCY45 Norton disc at Amazon with 3/8" hole].
** For the thick straight parts, it's best to use a 4.5 inch grinder with a thin masonry cutting disk.
** This combination is expensive but makes it easy for the finer work. The 60,000 rpm pencil grinder is very small and can rest on top of the surface. It grinds in all directions, meaning one can make an incision near the scribe line and slowly grind sideways until the scribe line is exactly matched, then cut forwards right along the scribe line. Makes cutting as easy as drawing a line.
*** [https://www.panamericantool.com/novar-pencil-grinder.html Pencil grinder]
*** [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-1-1-4-in-Rotary-Tool-Carbide-Cutting-Shaping-Wheel-for-Use-on-Woods-Fiberglass-Plastics-and-Laminates-543/202315728 Dremel Cutting / Shaping Wheel] (You will need more than one)
Here is a photo with the overhead console attached and some paint prep completed.
[[File:2025-03-18 16.54.47.jpg|none|thumb|Overhead console in place.]]

=== Notes ===

==== Page 43-3 ====
* Step 1:
** The cover's scribe lines for where it needs to mate with the door opening of the fuselage are too far apart. The door opening is only 37 inches but the scribe lines yield a 37 7/16 wide cover. See this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=206804 VAF thread] for details. Consider making a tool to easily measure 1/8 thickness because that is about the final thickness the frame has around the door opening. [[File:2024-04-30 19-04-48.jpg|400x400px]]
** The scribe lines for the bottom of the door opening leave the cabin top too thick. The thickness should be determined by what is needed to have the cabin top joggle sit on the upper edge of the side skins. It will be about 1/8 thick as well.
** The scribe lines for the windows are not giving you the requested 3/4 inch joggle, in some areas, only as little as 0.5 inch. Consider making your own scribe lines for the window cutouts.
** Cutting back the inside opening of the doors is already necessary for the initial install of the cabin top, namely for when doing the match drilling. It's impossible to clamp down the frame if the inside rim isn't trimmed back yet.
** The distance between the longeron and the upper edge of the outside skin is not necessarily 3/4 inches at all places. Measure and correct for your build. The scribe lines that Vans puts on the side lines are not correct (up to ~ 1 inch). Since the longeron is not necessarily parallel to the upper edge of the side skin, it's better to use the upper edge of the side skin and the upper end of the joggle on the cabin top as the two edges that need to match. [[File:2024-04-24 19-38-00.jpg|300x300px]] The joggle is nominally 3/4 inch but will depend on the longeron to side skin top edge distance. [[File:2024-04-24 19-37-26.jpg|300x300px]] Squaring the joggle step with a dremel set to 0.75 inches and the joggle depth.
==== Page 43-8 Center Strut and Windscreen ====
* The strut's forward holes into the cabin top might be close to the edge, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8938091872978499 FB thread]
* Step 2
** Note: The center rivet line on the F-1071 Forward Top skin is NOT center to the airplane! It is offset along with the F-1044A forward fuselage rib and the top center screw of the instrument panel. The center strut is attached to the rib's side.
** Excessive thickness of the welds at the bottom end of the center cabin brace may prevent proper insertion down to the shim. Consider notching the skin to make it fit. Also consider whether you want cables to run down inside as they also need a skin opening. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9793935377394140 FB post].
* Step 4
** Since you are drilling through steel guided by a pilot hole in the rib's web, best to first drill with a sharp 1/8 carbide drill bit, then upsize to #12
* Step 5
** The kit comes with three 3 inch cutting discs for trimming acrylic ([https://store.vansaircraft.com/norton-cutting-disc-3-tool-3-cutting-disc.html Norton Discs]). You might have to enlarge the very small center hole to make it fit your grinder or to fit into a cut-off disc arbor. High rpms are not necessary for cutting acrylic, an arbor in a standard drill works fine.

==== Page 43-11 ====

* Step 3
** These rivets will be inaccessible if you are bonding the Aerosport center roof console in prior to attaching the cabin top. Suggest installing these rivets BEFORE attaching the top.

==== Page 43-12 Hardware ====
* Step 1
** On the forward door post, the longer 10R14 bolts go into the 3 upper holes, the shorter 10R11 ones go into the lower 5 holes.
[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]

SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM

2024-12-20T23:03:00Z

Jasonbeall2002: /* Page 40-6 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 05/24/2023 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/40_10.pdf 40_10.pdf] Part ES-FA-PA-450-12-5 replaced with ES-FA-PA-270-12-5
* 11/05/2022 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/40_10.pdf 40_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
=== Hints ===

==== Page 40-3 Bellcrank jig ====

* The bellcrank jig comes in the wing kit and at this point you may have possibly misplaced it. The measurement from the bottom of the jig to the 1/4 inch hole shown in Figure 2 is 1 & 31/32 inch if you want to make your own.

==== Page 40-4 ====
* Step 4: See [[Index.php?title=Media:Flapbush.pdf|this pdf]] with 4 templates for the cutout with rounding radiuses applied. Print at 100%. The outer corner dimensions on the printout should be 2.5" * 1.75".

==== Page 40-5 ====

* Alternate way to install the torque tubes: instead of inserting the torque tubes like Figure 1 on page 40-5, instead slightly enlarge the holes in the wing roots so you can insert the torque tubes from the outside. Put both torque tubes in the freezer for about four hours. This mades it easy to slide the plastic bushings in place. The tolerances loosen up considerably between the plastic blocks and the steel tubes. Don't forget the central flap crank and make sure to position the UHMW plastic blocks before everything warms up.

==== Page 40-6 ====

* Consider deferring Step 1 until after bolting the outboard flap cranks (Page 40-8, Step 1). Numerous other builders have remarked that access is difficult when bolting the WD-1013 horns in the confined space along the fuselage sides. By not bolting the torque tubes to the central crank arm at this time, it allows you to spin/orient the outboard horns/torque tubes in any orientation thus making bolt installation easier. After this step, you can bolt the central crank arm to the torque tubes. Make sure everything is clocked correctly.

==== Flap Position Sensor ====
* The old flap motor (before mid 2022) has no built-in position sensor and needs an external POS-12 sensor. See section [[Flap_Position_Sensor]]

==== Testing the flap motor ====

* Some seem to be able to test their flap motor/actuator with a 9 volt battery, where others report you need a 12 volt battery to run the motor. This appears to be due to different generations of actuators.

[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]

SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM

2024-12-20T23:01:35Z

Jasonbeall2002: /* Page 40-5 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 05/24/2023 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/40_10.pdf 40_10.pdf] Part ES-FA-PA-450-12-5 replaced with ES-FA-PA-270-12-5
* 11/05/2022 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/40_10.pdf 40_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
=== Hints ===

==== Page 40-3 Bellcrank jig ====

* The bellcrank jig comes in the wing kit and at this point you may have possibly misplaced it. The measurement from the bottom of the jig to the 1/4 inch hole shown in Figure 2 is 1 & 31/32 inch if you want to make your own.

==== Page 40-4 ====
* Step 4: See [[Index.php?title=Media:Flapbush.pdf|this pdf]] with 4 templates for the cutout with rounding radiuses applied. Print at 100%. The outer corner dimensions on the printout should be 2.5" * 1.75".

==== Page 40-5 ====

* Alternate way to install the torque tubes: instead of inserting the torque tubes like Figure 1 on page 40-5, instead slightly enlarge the holes in the wing roots so you can insert the torque tubes from the outside. Put both torque tubes in the freezer for about four hours. This mades it easy to slide the plastic bushings in place. The tolerances loosen up considerably between the plastic blocks and the steel tubes. Don't forget the central flap crank and make sure to position the UHMW plastic blocks before everything warms up.

==== Page 40-6 ====

* Consider deferring Step 1 until after bolting the outboard flap cranks (Page 40-8, Step 1). Numerous other builders have remarked that access is difficult when bolting the WD-1013 horns in the confined space along the fuselage sides. By not bolting the torque tubes to the central crank arm at this time, it allows you to spin/orient the outboard horns/torque tubes in any orientation thus making bolt installation easier.

==== Flap Position Sensor ====
* The old flap motor (before mid 2022) has no built-in position sensor and needs an external POS-12 sensor. See section [[Flap_Position_Sensor]]

==== Testing the flap motor ====

* Some seem to be able to test their flap motor/actuator with a 9 volt battery, where others report you need a 12 volt battery to run the motor. This appears to be due to different generations of actuators.

[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]

SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM

2024-12-20T22:59:50Z

Jasonbeall2002: /* Page 40-5 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 05/24/2023 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/40_10.pdf 40_10.pdf] Part ES-FA-PA-450-12-5 replaced with ES-FA-PA-270-12-5
* 11/05/2022 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/40_10.pdf 40_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
=== Hints ===

==== Page 40-3 Bellcrank jig ====

* The bellcrank jig comes in the wing kit and at this point you may have possibly misplaced it. The measurement from the bottom of the jig to the 1/4 inch hole shown in Figure 2 is 1 & 31/32 inch if you want to make your own.

==== Page 40-4 ====
* Step 4: See [[Index.php?title=Media:Flapbush.pdf|this pdf]] with 4 templates for the cutout with rounding radiuses applied. Print at 100%. The outer corner dimensions on the printout should be 2.5" * 1.75".

==== Page 40-5 ====

* Alternate way to install the torque tubes: instead of inserting the torque tubes like Figure 1 on page 40-5, instead slightly enlarge the holes in the wing roots so you can insert the torque tubes from the outside. Put both torque tubes in the freezer for about four hours. Then put the UHMW plastic blocks in the oven at 120 degrees F for about thirty minutes. Google says they can withstand up to 180 degrees. This made is SUPER easy to slide everything in. The tolerances losen up considerably between the plastic blocks and the steel tubes. Don't forget the central flap crank and make sure to position the UHMW plastic blocks before everything warms up.

==== Page 40-6 ====

* Consider deferring Step 1 until after bolting the outboard flap cranks (Page 40-8, Step 1). Numerous other builders have remarked that access is difficult when bolting the WD-1013 horns in the confined space along the fuselage sides. By not bolting the torque tubes to the central crank arm at this time, it allows you to spin/orient the outboard horns/torque tubes in any orientation thus making bolt installation easier.

==== Flap Position Sensor ====
* The old flap motor (before mid 2022) has no built-in position sensor and needs an external POS-12 sensor. See section [[Flap_Position_Sensor]]

==== Testing the flap motor ====

* Some seem to be able to test their flap motor/actuator with a 9 volt battery, where others report you need a 12 volt battery to run the motor. This appears to be due to different generations of actuators.

[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]

SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM

2024-12-20T22:59:29Z

Jasonbeall2002:

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 05/24/2023 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/40_10.pdf 40_10.pdf] Part ES-FA-PA-450-12-5 replaced with ES-FA-PA-270-12-5
* 11/05/2022 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/40_10.pdf 40_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
=== Hints ===

==== Page 40-3 Bellcrank jig ====

* The bellcrank jig comes in the wing kit and at this point you may have possibly misplaced it. The measurement from the bottom of the jig to the 1/4 inch hole shown in Figure 2 is 1 & 31/32 inch if you want to make your own.

==== Page 40-4 ====
* Step 4: See [[Index.php?title=Media:Flapbush.pdf|this pdf]] with 4 templates for the cutout with rounding radiuses applied. Print at 100%. The outer corner dimensions on the printout should be 2.5" * 1.75".

==== Page 40-5 ====

* Alternate way to install the torque tubes: instead of inserting the torque tubes like Figure 1 on page 40-5, instead slightly enlarged the holes in the wing roots so you can insert the torque tubes from the outside. Put both torque tubes in the freezer for about four hours. Then put the UHMW plastic blocks in the oven at 120 degrees F for about thirty minutes. Google says they can withstand up to 180 degrees. This made is SUPER easy to slide everything in. The tolerances losen up considerably between the plastic blocks and the steel tubes. Don't forget the central flap crank and make sure to position the UHMW plastic blocks before everything warms up.

==== Page 40-6 ====

* Consider deferring Step 1 until after bolting the outboard flap cranks (Page 40-8, Step 1). Numerous other builders have remarked that access is difficult when bolting the WD-1013 horns in the confined space along the fuselage sides. By not bolting the torque tubes to the central crank arm at this time, it allows you to spin/orient the outboard horns/torque tubes in any orientation thus making bolt installation easier.

==== Flap Position Sensor ====
* The old flap motor (before mid 2022) has no built-in position sensor and needs an external POS-12 sensor. See section [[Flap_Position_Sensor]]

==== Testing the flap motor ====

* Some seem to be able to test their flap motor/actuator with a 9 volt battery, where others report you need a 12 volt battery to run the motor. This appears to be due to different generations of actuators.

[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]

SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM

2024-12-20T22:57:15Z

Jasonbeall2002:

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 05/24/2023 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/40_10.pdf 40_10.pdf] Part ES-FA-PA-450-12-5 replaced with ES-FA-PA-270-12-5
* 11/05/2022 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/40_10.pdf 40_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
=== Hints ===

==== Page 40-3 Bellcrank jig ====

* The bellcrank jig comes in the wing kit and at this point you may have possibly misplaced it. The measurement from the bottom of the jig to the 1/4 inch hole shown in Figure 2 is 1 & 31/32 inch if you want to make your own.

==== Page 40-4 ====
* Step 4: See [[Index.php?title=Media:Flapbush.pdf|this pdf]] with 4 templates for the cutout with rounding radiuses applied. Print at 100%. The outer corner dimensions on the printout should be 2.5" * 1.75".

==== Page 40-5 ====

* Alternate way to install the torque tubes: instead of inserting the torque tubes like Figure 1 on page 40-5, instead slightly enlarged the holes in the wing roots so you can insert the torque tubes from the outside. Put both torque tubes in the freezer for about four hours. Then put the UHMW plastic blocks in the oven at 120 degrees F for about thirty minutes. Google says they can withstand up to 180 degrees. This made is SUPER easy to slide everything in. The tolerances losen up considerably between the plastic blocks and the steel tubes. Don't forget the central flap crank and make sure to position the UHMW plastic blocks before everything warms up.

==== Page 40-6 ====

* Consider deferring Step 1 until after bolting the outboard flap cranks (Page 40-8, Step 1). Numerous other builders have remarked that access is difficult when bolting the WD-1013 horns in the confined space along the fuselage sides. By not bolting the torque tubes to the central crank arm at this time, it allows you to spin/orient the outboard horns/torque tubes in any orientation thus making bolt installation easier.

==== Flap Position Sensor ====
* The old flap motor (before mid 2022) has no built-in position sensor and needs an external POS-12 sensor. See section [[Flap_Position_Sensor]]

[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]

SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM

2024-12-20T22:53:54Z

Jasonbeall2002: /* Hints */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 05/24/2023 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/40_10.pdf 40_10.pdf] Part ES-FA-PA-450-12-5 replaced with ES-FA-PA-270-12-5
* 11/05/2022 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/40_10.pdf 40_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
=== Hints ===

==== Page 40-3 Bellcrank jig ====

* The bellcrank jig comes in the wing kit and at this point you may have possibly misplaced it. The measurement from the bottom of the jig to the 1/4 inch hole shown in Figure 2 is 1 & 31/32 inch if you want to make your own.

==== Page 40-4 ====
* Step 4: See [[index.php?title=Media:Flapbush.pdf|this pdf]] with 4 templates for the cutout with rounding radiuses applied. Print at 100%. The outer corner dimensions on the printout should be 2.5" * 1.75".

==== Page 40-5 ====

* Alternate way to install the torque tubes: instead of inserting the torque tubes like Figure 1 on page 40-5, instead slightly enlarged the holes in the wing roots so you can insert the torque tubes from the outside. Put both torque tubes in the freezer for about four hours. Then put the UHMW plastic blocks in the oven at 120 degrees F for about thirty minutes. Google says they can withstand up to 180 degrees. This made is SUPER easy to slide everything in. The tolerances losen up considerably between the plastic blocks and the steel tubes. Don't forget the central flap crank and make sure to position the UHMW plastic blocks before everything warms up.

==== Page 40-6 ====

* Consider deferring Step 1 until after installing the outboard flap cranks (Page 40-8, Step 1). Numerous other builders have remarked that access is limited to bolt the WD-1013 horns in the limited space. One option is to skip Step 1 on page 40-6. By not bolting the torque tubes at this time to the central crank arm, it allows you to orient the outboard horns/torque tubes in any orientation thus making bolt installation easier.

==== Flap Position Sensor ====
* The old flap motor (before mid 2022) has no built-in position sensor and needs an external POS-12 sensor. See section [[Flap_Position_Sensor]]

[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]

SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM

2024-12-18T19:47:55Z

Jasonbeall2002: /* Hints */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 05/24/2023 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/40_10.pdf 40_10.pdf] Part ES-FA-PA-450-12-5 replaced with ES-FA-PA-270-12-5
* 11/05/2022 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/40_10.pdf 40_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
=== Hints ===

==== Page 40-3 Bellcrank jig ====

* The bellcrank jig comes in the wing kit and at this point you may have possibly misplaced it. The measurement from the bottom of the jig to the 1/4 inch hole shown in Figure 2 is 1 & 31/32 inch if you want to make your own.

==== Page 40-4 ====
* Step 4: See [[Index.php?title=Media:Flapbush.pdf|this pdf]] with 4 templates for the cutout with rounding radiuses applied. Print at 100%. The outer corner dimensions on the printout should be 2.5" * 1.75".

==== Page 40-5 ====

* Alternate way to install the torque tubes: instead of inserting the torque tubes like Figure 1 on page 40-5, instead slightly enlarged the holes in the wing roots so you can insert the torque tubes from the outside. Put both torque tubes in the freezer for about four hours. Then put the UHMW plastic blocks in the oven at 120 degrees F for about thirty minutes. Google says they can withstand up to 180 degrees. This made is SUPER easy to slide everything in. The tolerances losen up considerably between the plastic blocks and the steel tubes. Don't forget the central flap crank and make sure to position the UHMW plastic blocks before everything warms up.

==== Flap Position Sensor ====
* The old flap motor (before mid 2022) has no built-in position sensor and needs an external POS-12 sensor. See section [[Flap_Position_Sensor]]

[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]

SECTION 40: FLAP SYSTEM

2024-12-12T15:06:24Z

Jasonbeall2002: Bellcrank jig comment