RV10 Community Wiki - User contributions [en]

SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS

2025-06-23T23:25:13Z

Caret: /* 29-15 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/29_10.pdf 29_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

== 29-2 ==
Note that when bending the longerons, the template has parts that are almost completely straight. It is easiest to identify that and avoid curving that part (don't just start curving everything at the start).

Also, follow the curve templates very carefully. The curve of the longerons affects the shape of your aircraft, the fit of the cargo door, the fit of some interior panels, etc. Even if you spend ten hours per longeron to get it exactly right that's time well spent.

Note that the "Aft Twist Mark" is not applicable for F-1013-L because it is the shorter longeron.

== 29-3 ==
The instructions don't specify, but you do the FWD TWIST on both longerons since the parts are symmetrical (other than the fact that one is shorter to accommodate the cargo door).

== 29-5 ==

Folding the skins can be pretty difficult, definitely take your time and get a consistent curve. Note that a 60-degree fold may be insufficient -- ultimately, the bottom edge needs to be a full 90 degrees from the side skin. You can force the final fold later with Clecos, but you can end up with a gap at the edge of the skin on the bottom. Suggestions:
* The forward (sharp) edge should be pretty much 90 degrees
* The trailing edge should be 70-75 degrees
* This applies to the fold on the forward side skin as well.

== 29-6 ==

Step 2 and especially Step 4 can be fiddly. Note that the thickness of the AA6-063 is 1/16" thick so consider using a scrap piece of that AA6-063 to make sure the 1/16" offset is implemented correctly.

== 29-7 ==

* Step 3: The number of holes in the top flanges of the F-1015C Mid Cabin Decks is one greater than the number of holes drilled into the F-1013 longerons using the template. Go ahead and match-drill that hole into the longerons.

== 29-9 ==

* Step 3: It is possible to violate the edge distance when match-drilling into the longeron. For example, if your longeron is not perfectly curved then the holes will not line up correctly. It's tough because you are match-drilling from underneath, but make sure that you are not drilling too close to the edge of the longeron. You can draw a line with your Sharpee at 3/16" from the outside edge of the lower flange and the color it in -- then use an inspection mirror when clamping onto the bracket below. If you can see any Sharpee through the holes then you are too close to the edge to match drill that hole.

== 29-11 ==
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4218804234907310 FB Post] on how to keep the skin and clamping block in place while bending.
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7830295577091473 FB Post] on how to use two angle pieces to clamp the skin.

== 29-12 ==

In the detail bubble for Figure 2, note that later you will be installing flush rivets into the side flanges of the F-1024E brackets. You should countersink for two AN426AD4 rivets into each of F-01042-L-1 and F-01042-R-1, flush on the aft side.

== 29-13 ==
Consider Markus's write-up to ensure the edge distance is met:
Step 1:
Match-Drill #40 the holes in the F-01069-L-1 & -R-1 Fwd Side Skins and the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels common to the WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Uncleco the Fwd Side Skins from the under the structure. This is not according to plans but makes it simpler to check the edge distance.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Upper Firewall Bracket with a Sharpie.
[[File:Image1.jpg]] 

Mark the center of the middle flange of the Upper Firewall Bracket and the Upper Fuse Channel.
[[File:Image2.jpg]] 

Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Upper Firewall Bracket tight against the Upper Fuse Channel.
[[File:Image3.jpg]] 

Make sure the center lines still align. Also, make sure that the edge distance lines cannot be seen through the holes of the Upper Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #40 the holes and Cleco as you go.
[[File:Image4.jpg]] 

Match-Drill #40 the holes in the fwd side skins and the F-1041-L and -R Lower Fuse Channels common to the WD-1003-L and -R Lower Firewall Brackets.
Use the same technique as described above.

== 29-13 step 3 ==
Separate from Markus's write up above, when I came to drill the four rivets holes
on page 29-13 step 3, I had problems which resulted in me having to make F-1013L again.
It is difficult to get a clamp in there as detailed in the instructions, and still have
space to get the drill in there.
So I used a different method which I later verified with Vans as being ok.

Once the #40 holes are drilled from the skin into F-1013, and generously cleco'ed,
the F-1013 will be nicely flush with the skin.
Then while holding the F-1013 against the F-1001J gusset,
drill the rear most #30 hole up from the gusset into the longeron.

Later once the skin is removed (29-14 step 8), the single hole in F-1013 can be cleco'ed,
the F-1013 clamped to the gusset and the remaining 3 holes drilled.

== 29-14 ==
* Step 2 Instead of drilling F-1013 through the F-1039J jig at this point, it is much easier (and more accurate) to wait until the F-1013 is removed and then drill these holes on the bench. I found it is more important to ensure that the F-1039J jig edge is parallel to the edge of F-1013 than to use the #30 rivet holes to set this. If those #30 holes are slightly off, the error will be magnified in the position of the rudder assembly bolt holes. If the F-1039J is not parallel to F-1013, remove all but one cleco, then make the jig parallel, then drill the most aft of the bolt hole. Cleco this hole and drill the remaining bolt holes.

* Step 5 When match drilling from the F-1001B angle into the WD-1002-L / WD-1002-R firewall steel brackets, be aware that it's easy to violate the edge distance in the steel bracket (2 x D, measured from the center of hole). The remedy is to temporarily install a bolt into the engine mount hole to pull the bracket into place and to use a clamp to move the steel bracket to increase edge distance. See [http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=nbnrv10&project=572&category=6009&log=254638&row=60 this build log] [[File:Screen Shot 2024-01-22 at 11.29.55 AM.png|300x300px]]
 See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4932489646872095/ FB post 4/17/2022] See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5936108719843511/ FB post 3/27/2023]

Also consider Markus's write-up for this page:
Step 4:
Match-Drill #30 the holes in the lower flange of the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels into the WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Upper Firewall Bracket with a Sharpie.
[[File:Image5.jpg]] 
Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Upper Firewall bracket tight against the Upper Fuse Channel. Use a small metal plate between the clamp and the upper and lower flange of the Upper Firewall Bracket to push the flanges in.
[[File:Image6.jpg]] 
Make sure that you cannot see the edge distance lines through the holes of the lower flange of the Upper Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #30 the holes. Cleco as you go.

Step 5:
Match-Drill #30 the holes in the F-1001B Firewall Upper Angle into the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels and WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Use the same technique as described above.
Match-Drill #30 the remaining holes aft of the firewall brackets common to the firewall upper angle and the upper fuse channels. Remove the Cleco from the aftmost hole common to these two parts and final-drill the hole #30 on both sides of the aircraft.

Step 6:
Match-drill #30 the holes along the upper and lower flanges of the F-1041-L and -R Lwr Fuse Channels into the WD-1003-L-PC and -R-PC Lower Firewall Brackets.
Make a mark on the Lwr Fuse Channel and Lower Firewall Bracket as long as the Fwd Side Skin is still Clecoed to the structure to make sure those parts align properly once the Fwd Side Skin is removed.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Lower Firewall Bracket with a sharpie.
Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Lower Firewall Bracket tight against the Lwr Fuse Channel. Use a small metal plate between the clamp and the upper and lower flange of the Lower Firewall Bracket to push the flanges in.
[[File:Image7.jpg]] 
Make sure that you cannot see the edge distance lines through the holes of the upper or lower flange of the Lwr Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #30 the holes. Cleco as you go.

* Step 9: It's not clear, but when countersinking the #40 outside holes on the F-1013 Forward Fuselage Longerons, you should do all of them -- the #40 holes common to both the F-01069 Fwd Sdie Skins and F-1070 Mid Side Skins. Additionally, do NOT countersink the #30 holes on the F-01004K Center Section Side Plates; only countersink the #40 holes on these pieces.

* Additional Step: Machine countersink the two #40 holes that are common from F-01088-R-1 tabs into F-010020R-1 and into F-01042-R-1. Repeat for the left side.

== 29-15 ==
* Questions on which holes to dimple? See [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5839137336207317 this FB thread]. Another [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6453842408070137 FB thread on the same topic]

* The instructions say, "Dimple the single hole in the forward tab of the F-01088-L -1 & -R-1 Fwd Fuselage Ribs". Dimple the aft tabs also.

== 29-16 ==
* Step 5: The most forward rivet on the bottom part of the lower firewall bracket is hard to reach. Some trim the top flange of the bracket to allow for using an offset rivet set, others use a large 16" Knipex pair of pliers with a makeshift die for the manufactured head. See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8092829177504777 FB thread]. [[File:Screenshot 2024-09-13 at 8.27.25 AM.png|300x300px]]

== 29-17 ==
* Some of the holes around the door opening are left open. You will cleco the door to the frame using those in order to 1) get the correct position of the door within the insert and 2) lock in the airframe shape into the door when bonding the door shells together. These blanks allow you a place to insert the clecos to hold it. Once the doors are bonded and door install complete, you then rivet those remaining. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9301782943276055 FB thread].
* Assuming you are not considering installing wiring under the rear floors (you shouldn't), you might consider installing the rear floor pans now before the side skins are installed, while it is easier to get access. See page 35-2.

== 29-18 ==

* On this page, do not rivet the skin holes for the F-01088-L-1 and F-01088-R-1 since you will not be installing those pieces until later.

== 29-19 ==
* If you are using the Aerosport interior side panels, don't install the VENT-0004 knob. The Aerosport side vents need a different extension lever which can only be attached once the panel is in place.
* The kit may not include the nylon washers 5610-90-31. They can be obtained at your local hardware store as #10 Nylon washer.

== 29-20 ==
* Don't rivet the forward cabin floor to the center tunnel walls if you are getting electronic injection (SDS or EFII), or intend to install access covers to the side of the tunnel as the rivet holes will be needed. For the SDS pump shelf, you will have 5 stock rivets counting from the front, then the next 11 are to be left out for the fuel pump shelf. For the access covers, see the instructions from Airward.

== 29-21 ==
* Around the start of 2021, Vans updated the design of the landing gear mount to address some concerns with cracking. If you received your fuselage kits after this, you received the SB-00007 kit with the fuselage kit. There's no explanation on how to apply this SB to a kit in construction.

* SB-00007 has been partly applied to new parts in the kit. In particular, the landing gear mount and the forward spar designs have been updated, but the side skins have not. The SB calls for enlarging some holes in the forward spar, however, those holes are already the correct size in newer kits (several 1/4in holes, and one 5/8in on each side). The SB includes two templates (VA-274 & VA-275) and two drill guides. These are not needed at all. The part of the SB that involves drilling into the side skins (F-1069, F-01004K & F-01004T) using the drill templates VA-277 & VA-278 '''''is necessary'''''.

* All of this is covered correctly in the plans. The instructions that come with SB-00007 do not need to be followed at all. If you have any doubts, please call Van's tech support.

[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]

SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS

2025-06-23T23:23:23Z

Caret:

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/29_10.pdf 29_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

== 29-2 ==
Note that when bending the longerons, the template has parts that are almost completely straight. It is easiest to identify that and avoid curving that part (don't just start curving everything at the start).

Also, follow the curve templates very carefully. The curve of the longerons affects the shape of your aircraft, the fit of the cargo door, the fit of some interior panels, etc. Even if you spend ten hours per longeron to get it exactly right that's time well spent.

Note that the "Aft Twist Mark" is not applicable for F-1013-L because it is the shorter longeron.

== 29-3 ==
The instructions don't specify, but you do the FWD TWIST on both longerons since the parts are symmetrical (other than the fact that one is shorter to accommodate the cargo door).

== 29-5 ==

Folding the skins can be pretty difficult, definitely take your time and get a consistent curve. Note that a 60-degree fold may be insufficient -- ultimately, the bottom edge needs to be a full 90 degrees from the side skin. You can force the final fold later with Clecos, but you can end up with a gap at the edge of the skin on the bottom. Suggestions:
* The forward (sharp) edge should be pretty much 90 degrees
* The trailing edge should be 70-75 degrees
* This applies to the fold on the forward side skin as well.

== 29-6 ==

Step 2 and especially Step 4 can be fiddly. Note that the thickness of the AA6-063 is 1/16" thick so consider using a scrap piece of that AA6-063 to make sure the 1/16" offset is implemented correctly.

== 29-7 ==

* Step 3: The number of holes in the top flanges of the F-1015C Mid Cabin Decks is one greater than the number of holes drilled into the F-1013 longerons using the template. Go ahead and match-drill that hole into the longerons.

== 29-9 ==

* Step 3: It is possible to violate the edge distance when match-drilling into the longeron. For example, if your longeron is not perfectly curved then the holes will not line up correctly. It's tough because you are match-drilling from underneath, but make sure that you are not drilling too close to the edge of the longeron. You can draw a line with your Sharpee at 3/16" from the outside edge of the lower flange and the color it in -- then use an inspection mirror when clamping onto the bracket below. If you can see any Sharpee through the holes then you are too close to the edge to match drill that hole.

== 29-11 ==
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4218804234907310 FB Post] on how to keep the skin and clamping block in place while bending.
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7830295577091473 FB Post] on how to use two angle pieces to clamp the skin.

== 29-12 ==

In the detail bubble for Figure 2, note that later you will be installing flush rivets into the side flanges of the F-1024E brackets. You should countersink for two AN426AD4 rivets into each of F-01042-L-1 and F-01042-R-1, flush on the aft side.

== 29-13 ==
Consider Markus's write-up to ensure the edge distance is met:
Step 1:
Match-Drill #40 the holes in the F-01069-L-1 & -R-1 Fwd Side Skins and the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels common to the WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Uncleco the Fwd Side Skins from the under the structure. This is not according to plans but makes it simpler to check the edge distance.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Upper Firewall Bracket with a Sharpie.
[[File:Image1.jpg]] 

Mark the center of the middle flange of the Upper Firewall Bracket and the Upper Fuse Channel.
[[File:Image2.jpg]] 

Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Upper Firewall Bracket tight against the Upper Fuse Channel.
[[File:Image3.jpg]] 

Make sure the center lines still align. Also, make sure that the edge distance lines cannot be seen through the holes of the Upper Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #40 the holes and Cleco as you go.
[[File:Image4.jpg]] 

Match-Drill #40 the holes in the fwd side skins and the F-1041-L and -R Lower Fuse Channels common to the WD-1003-L and -R Lower Firewall Brackets.
Use the same technique as described above.

== 29-13 step 3 ==
Separate from Markus's write up above, when I came to drill the four rivets holes
on page 29-13 step 3, I had problems which resulted in me having to make F-1013L again.
It is difficult to get a clamp in there as detailed in the instructions, and still have
space to get the drill in there.
So I used a different method which I later verified with Vans as being ok.

Once the #40 holes are drilled from the skin into F-1013, and generously cleco'ed,
the F-1013 will be nicely flush with the skin.
Then while holding the F-1013 against the F-1001J gusset,
drill the rear most #30 hole up from the gusset into the longeron.

Later once the skin is removed (29-14 step 8), the single hole in F-1013 can be cleco'ed,
the F-1013 clamped to the gusset and the remaining 3 holes drilled.

== 29-14 ==
* Step 2 Instead of drilling F-1013 through the F-1039J jig at this point, it is much easier (and more accurate) to wait until the F-1013 is removed and then drill these holes on the bench. I found it is more important to ensure that the F-1039J jig edge is parallel to the edge of F-1013 than to use the #30 rivet holes to set this. If those #30 holes are slightly off, the error will be magnified in the position of the rudder assembly bolt holes. If the F-1039J is not parallel to F-1013, remove all but one cleco, then make the jig parallel, then drill the most aft of the bolt hole. Cleco this hole and drill the remaining bolt holes.

* Step 5 When match drilling from the F-1001B angle into the WD-1002-L / WD-1002-R firewall steel brackets, be aware that it's easy to violate the edge distance in the steel bracket (2 x D, measured from the center of hole). The remedy is to temporarily install a bolt into the engine mount hole to pull the bracket into place and to use a clamp to move the steel bracket to increase edge distance. See [http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=nbnrv10&project=572&category=6009&log=254638&row=60 this build log] [[File:Screen Shot 2024-01-22 at 11.29.55 AM.png|300x300px]]
 See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4932489646872095/ FB post 4/17/2022] See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5936108719843511/ FB post 3/27/2023]

Also consider Markus's write-up for this page:
Step 4:
Match-Drill #30 the holes in the lower flange of the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels into the WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Upper Firewall Bracket with a Sharpie.
[[File:Image5.jpg]] 
Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Upper Firewall bracket tight against the Upper Fuse Channel. Use a small metal plate between the clamp and the upper and lower flange of the Upper Firewall Bracket to push the flanges in.
[[File:Image6.jpg]] 
Make sure that you cannot see the edge distance lines through the holes of the lower flange of the Upper Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #30 the holes. Cleco as you go.

Step 5:
Match-Drill #30 the holes in the F-1001B Firewall Upper Angle into the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels and WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Use the same technique as described above.
Match-Drill #30 the remaining holes aft of the firewall brackets common to the firewall upper angle and the upper fuse channels. Remove the Cleco from the aftmost hole common to these two parts and final-drill the hole #30 on both sides of the aircraft.

Step 6:
Match-drill #30 the holes along the upper and lower flanges of the F-1041-L and -R Lwr Fuse Channels into the WD-1003-L-PC and -R-PC Lower Firewall Brackets.
Make a mark on the Lwr Fuse Channel and Lower Firewall Bracket as long as the Fwd Side Skin is still Clecoed to the structure to make sure those parts align properly once the Fwd Side Skin is removed.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Lower Firewall Bracket with a sharpie.
Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Lower Firewall Bracket tight against the Lwr Fuse Channel. Use a small metal plate between the clamp and the upper and lower flange of the Lower Firewall Bracket to push the flanges in.
[[File:Image7.jpg]] 
Make sure that you cannot see the edge distance lines through the holes of the upper or lower flange of the Lwr Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #30 the holes. Cleco as you go.

* Step 9: It's not clear, but when countersinking the #40 outside holes on the F-1013 Forward Fuselage Longerons, you should do all of them -- the #40 holes common to both the F-01069 Fwd Sdie Skins and F-1070 Mid Side Skins. Additionally, do NOT countersink the #30 holes on the F-01004K Center Section Side Plates; only countersink the #40 holes on these pieces.

* Additional Step: Machine countersink the two #40 holes that are common from F-01088-R-1 tabs into F-010020R-1 and into F-01042-R-1. Repeat for the left side.

== 29-15 ==
* Questions on which holes to dimple? See [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5839137336207317 this FB thread]. Another [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6453842408070137 FB thread on the same topic]

The instructions say, "Dimple the single hole in the forward tab of the F-01088-L -1 & -R-1 Fwd Fuselage Ribs".
Dimple the aft tabs also.

== 29-16 ==
* Step 5: The most forward rivet on the bottom part of the lower firewall bracket is hard to reach. Some trim the top flange of the bracket to allow for using an offset rivet set, others use a large 16" Knipex pair of pliers with a makeshift die for the manufactured head. See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8092829177504777 FB thread]. [[File:Screenshot 2024-09-13 at 8.27.25 AM.png|300x300px]]

== 29-17 ==
* Some of the holes around the door opening are left open. You will cleco the door to the frame using those in order to 1) get the correct position of the door within the insert and 2) lock in the airframe shape into the door when bonding the door shells together. These blanks allow you a place to insert the clecos to hold it. Once the doors are bonded and door install complete, you then rivet those remaining. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9301782943276055 FB thread].
* Assuming you are not considering installing wiring under the rear floors (you shouldn't), you might consider installing the rear floor pans now before the side skins are installed, while it is easier to get access. See page 35-2.

== 29-18 ==

* On this page, do not rivet the skin holes for the F-01088-L-1 and F-01088-R-1 since you will not be installing those pieces until later.

== 29-19 ==
* If you are using the Aerosport interior side panels, don't install the VENT-0004 knob. The Aerosport side vents need a different extension lever which can only be attached once the panel is in place.
* The kit may not include the nylon washers 5610-90-31. They can be obtained at your local hardware store as #10 Nylon washer.

== 29-20 ==
* Don't rivet the forward cabin floor to the center tunnel walls if you are getting electronic injection (SDS or EFII), or intend to install access covers to the side of the tunnel as the rivet holes will be needed. For the SDS pump shelf, you will have 5 stock rivets counting from the front, then the next 11 are to be left out for the fuel pump shelf. For the access covers, see the instructions from Airward.

== 29-21 ==
* Around the start of 2021, Vans updated the design of the landing gear mount to address some concerns with cracking. If you received your fuselage kits after this, you received the SB-00007 kit with the fuselage kit. There's no explanation on how to apply this SB to a kit in construction.

* SB-00007 has been partly applied to new parts in the kit. In particular, the landing gear mount and the forward spar designs have been updated, but the side skins have not. The SB calls for enlarging some holes in the forward spar, however, those holes are already the correct size in newer kits (several 1/4in holes, and one 5/8in on each side). The SB includes two templates (VA-274 & VA-275) and two drill guides. These are not needed at all. The part of the SB that involves drilling into the side skins (F-1069, F-01004K & F-01004T) using the drill templates VA-277 & VA-278 '''''is necessary'''''.

* All of this is covered correctly in the plans. The instructions that come with SB-00007 do not need to be followed at all. If you have any doubts, please call Van's tech support.

[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]

SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS

2025-06-23T23:16:34Z

Caret: /* 29-14 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/29_10.pdf 29_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

== 29-2 ==
Note that when bending the longerons, the template has parts that are almost completely straight. It is easiest to identify that and avoid curving that part (don't just start curving everything at the start).

Also, follow the curve templates very carefully. The curve of the longerons affects the shape of your aircraft, the fit of the cargo door, the fit of some interior panels, etc. Even if you spend ten hours per longeron to get it exactly right that's time well spent.

Note that the "Aft Twist Mark" is not applicable for F-1013-L because it is the shorter longeron.

== 29-3 ==
The instructions don't specify, but you do the FWD TWIST on both longerons since the parts are symmetrical (other than the fact that one is shorter to accommodate the cargo door).

== 29-5 ==

Folding the skins can be pretty difficult, definitely take your time and get a consistent curve. Note that a 60-degree fold may be insufficient -- ultimately, the bottom edge needs to be a full 90 degrees from the side skin. You can force the final fold later with Clecos, but you can end up with a gap at the edge of the skin on the bottom. Suggestions:
* The forward (sharp) edge should be pretty much 90 degrees
* The trailing edge should be 70-75 degrees
* This applies to the fold on the forward side skin as well.

== 29-6 ==

Step 2 and especially Step 4 can be fiddly. Note that the thickness of the AA6-063 is 1/16" thick so consider using a scrap piece of that AA6-063 to make sure the 1/16" offset is implemented correctly.

== 29-7 ==

* Step 3: The number of holes in the top flanges of the F-1015C Mid Cabin Decks is one greater than the number of holes drilled into the F-1013 longerons using the template. Go ahead and match-drill that hole into the longerons.

== 29-9 ==

* Step 3: It is possible to violate the edge distance when match-drilling into the longeron. For example, if your longeron is not perfectly curved then the holes will not line up correctly. It's tough because you are match-drilling from underneath, but make sure that you are not drilling too close to the edge of the longeron. You can draw a line with your Sharpee at 3/16" from the outside edge of the lower flange and the color it in -- then use an inspection mirror when clamping onto the bracket below. If you can see any Sharpee through the holes then you are too close to the edge to match drill that hole.

== 29-11 ==
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4218804234907310 FB Post] on how to keep the skin and clamping block in place while bending.
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7830295577091473 FB Post] on how to use two angle pieces to clamp the skin.

== 29-12 ==

In the detail bubble for Figure 2, note that later you will be installing flush rivets into the side flanges of the F-1024E brackets. You should countersink for two AN426AD4 rivets into each of F-01042-L-1 and F-01042-R-1, flush on the aft side.

== 29-13 ==
Consider Markus's write-up to ensure the edge distance is met:
Step 1:
Match-Drill #40 the holes in the F-01069-L-1 & -R-1 Fwd Side Skins and the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels common to the WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Uncleco the Fwd Side Skins from the under the structure. This is not according to plans but makes it simpler to check the edge distance.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Upper Firewall Bracket with a Sharpie.
[[File:Image1.jpg]] 

Mark the center of the middle flange of the Upper Firewall Bracket and the Upper Fuse Channel.
[[File:Image2.jpg]] 

Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Upper Firewall Bracket tight against the Upper Fuse Channel.
[[File:Image3.jpg]] 

Make sure the center lines still align. Also, make sure that the edge distance lines cannot be seen through the holes of the Upper Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #40 the holes and Cleco as you go.
[[File:Image4.jpg]] 

Match-Drill #40 the holes in the fwd side skins and the F-1041-L and -R Lower Fuse Channels common to the WD-1003-L and -R Lower Firewall Brackets.
Use the same technique as described above.

== 29-13 step 3 ==
Separate from Markus's write up above, when I came to drill the four rivets holes
on page 29-13 step 3, I had problems which resulted in me having to make F-1013L again.
It is difficult to get a clamp in there as detailed in the instructions, and still have
space to get the drill in there.
So I used a different method which I later verified with Vans as being ok.

Once the #40 holes are drilled from the skin into F-1013, and generously cleco'ed,
the F-1013 will be nicely flush with the skin.
Then while holding the F-1013 against the F-1001J gusset,
drill the rear most #30 hole up from the gusset into the longeron.

Later once the skin is removed (29-14 step 8), the single hole in F-1013 can be cleco'ed,
the F-1013 clamped to the gusset and the remaining 3 holes drilled.

== 29-14 ==
* Step 2 Instead of drilling F-1013 through the F-1039J jig at this point, it is much easier (and more accurate) to wait until the F-1013 is removed and then drill these holes on the bench. I found it is more important to ensure that the F-1039J jig edge is parallel to the edge of F-1013 than to use the #30 rivet holes to set this. If those #30 holes are slightly off, the error will be magnified in the position of the rudder assembly bolt holes. If the F-1039J is not parallel to F-1013, remove all but one cleco, then make the jig parallel, then drill the most aft of the bolt hole. Cleco this hole and drill the remaining bolt holes.

* Step 5 When match drilling from the F-1001B angle into the WD-1002-L / WD-1002-R firewall steel brackets, be aware that it's easy to violate the edge distance in the steel bracket (2 x D, measured from the center of hole). The remedy is to temporarily install a bolt into the engine mount hole to pull the bracket into place and to use a clamp to move the steel bracket to increase edge distance. See [http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=nbnrv10&project=572&category=6009&log=254638&row=60 this build log] [[File:Screen Shot 2024-01-22 at 11.29.55 AM.png|300x300px]]
 See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4932489646872095/ FB post 4/17/2022] See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5936108719843511/ FB post 3/27/2023]

Also consider Markus's write-up for this page:
Step 4:
Match-Drill #30 the holes in the lower flange of the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels into the WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Upper Firewall Bracket with a Sharpie.
[[File:Image5.jpg]] 
Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Upper Firewall bracket tight against the Upper Fuse Channel. Use a small metal plate between the clamp and the upper and lower flange of the Upper Firewall Bracket to push the flanges in.
[[File:Image6.jpg]] 
Make sure that you cannot see the edge distance lines through the holes of the lower flange of the Upper Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #30 the holes. Cleco as you go.

Step 5:
Match-Drill #30 the holes in the F-1001B Firewall Upper Angle into the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels and WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Use the same technique as described above.
Match-Drill #30 the remaining holes aft of the firewall brackets common to the firewall upper angle and the upper fuse channels. Remove the Cleco from the aftmost hole common to these two parts and final-drill the hole #30 on both sides of the aircraft.

Step 6:
Match-drill #30 the holes along the upper and lower flanges of the F-1041-L and -R Lwr Fuse Channels into the WD-1003-L-PC and -R-PC Lower Firewall Brackets.
Make a mark on the Lwr Fuse Channel and Lower Firewall Bracket as long as the Fwd Side Skin is still Clecoed to the structure to make sure those parts align properly once the Fwd Side Skin is removed.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Lower Firewall Bracket with a sharpie.
Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Lower Firewall Bracket tight against the Lwr Fuse Channel. Use a small metal plate between the clamp and the upper and lower flange of the Lower Firewall Bracket to push the flanges in.
[[File:Image7.jpg]] 
Make sure that you cannot see the edge distance lines through the holes of the upper or lower flange of the Lwr Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #30 the holes. Cleco as you go.

* Step 9: It's not clear, but when countersinking the #40 outside holes on the F-1013 Forward Fuselage Longerons, you should do all of them -- the #40 holes common to both the F-01069 Fwd Sdie Skins and F-1070 Mid Side Skins. Additionally, do NOT countersink the #30 holes on the F-01004K Center Section Side Plates; only countersink the #40 holes on these pieces.

== 29-15 ==
* Questions on which holes to dimple? See [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5839137336207317 this FB thread]. Another [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6453842408070137 FB thread on the same topic]

== 29-16 ==
* Step 5: The most forward rivet on the bottom part of the lower firewall bracket is hard to reach. Some trim the top flange of the bracket to allow for using an offset rivet set, others use a large 16" Knipex pair of pliers with a makeshift die for the manufactured head. See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8092829177504777 FB thread]. [[File:Screenshot 2024-09-13 at 8.27.25 AM.png|300x300px]]

== 29-17 ==
* Some of the holes around the door opening are left open. You will cleco the door to the frame using those in order to 1) get the correct position of the door within the insert and 2) lock in the airframe shape into the door when bonding the door shells together. These blanks allow you a place to insert the clecos to hold it. Once the doors are bonded and door install complete, you then rivet those remaining. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9301782943276055 FB thread].
* Assuming you are not considering installing wiring under the rear floors (you shouldn't), you might consider installing the rear floor pans now before the side skins are installed, while it is easier to get access. See page 35-2.

== 29-18 ==

* On this page, do not rivet the skin holes for the F-01088-L-1 and F-01088-R-1 since you will not be installing those pieces until later.

== 29-19 ==
* If you are using the Aerosport interior side panels, don't install the VENT-0004 knob. The Aerosport side vents need a different extension lever which can only be attached once the panel is in place.
* The kit may not include the nylon washers 5610-90-31. They can be obtained at your local hardware store as #10 Nylon washer.

== 29-20 ==
* Don't rivet the forward cabin floor to the center tunnel walls if you are getting electronic injection (SDS or EFII), or intend to install access covers to the side of the tunnel as the rivet holes will be needed. For the SDS pump shelf, you will have 5 stock rivets counting from the front, then the next 11 are to be left out for the fuel pump shelf. For the access covers, see the instructions from Airward.

== 29-21 ==
* Around the start of 2021, Vans updated the design of the landing gear mount to address some concerns with cracking. If you received your fuselage kits after this, you received the SB-00007 kit with the fuselage kit. There's no explanation on how to apply this SB to a kit in construction.

* SB-00007 has been partly applied to new parts in the kit. In particular, the landing gear mount and the forward spar designs have been updated, but the side skins have not. The SB calls for enlarging some holes in the forward spar, however, those holes are already the correct size in newer kits (several 1/4in holes, and one 5/8in on each side). The SB includes two templates (VA-274 & VA-275) and two drill guides. These are not needed at all. The part of the SB that involves drilling into the side skins (F-1069, F-01004K & F-01004T) using the drill templates VA-277 & VA-278 '''''is necessary'''''.

* All of this is covered correctly in the plans. The instructions that come with SB-00007 do not need to be followed at all. If you have any doubts, please call Van's tech support.

[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]

SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS

2025-06-23T23:16:14Z

Caret: /* 29-14 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/29_10.pdf 29_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

== 29-2 ==
Note that when bending the longerons, the template has parts that are almost completely straight. It is easiest to identify that and avoid curving that part (don't just start curving everything at the start).

Also, follow the curve templates very carefully. The curve of the longerons affects the shape of your aircraft, the fit of the cargo door, the fit of some interior panels, etc. Even if you spend ten hours per longeron to get it exactly right that's time well spent.

Note that the "Aft Twist Mark" is not applicable for F-1013-L because it is the shorter longeron.

== 29-3 ==
The instructions don't specify, but you do the FWD TWIST on both longerons since the parts are symmetrical (other than the fact that one is shorter to accommodate the cargo door).

== 29-5 ==

Folding the skins can be pretty difficult, definitely take your time and get a consistent curve. Note that a 60-degree fold may be insufficient -- ultimately, the bottom edge needs to be a full 90 degrees from the side skin. You can force the final fold later with Clecos, but you can end up with a gap at the edge of the skin on the bottom. Suggestions:
* The forward (sharp) edge should be pretty much 90 degrees
* The trailing edge should be 70-75 degrees
* This applies to the fold on the forward side skin as well.

== 29-6 ==

Step 2 and especially Step 4 can be fiddly. Note that the thickness of the AA6-063 is 1/16" thick so consider using a scrap piece of that AA6-063 to make sure the 1/16" offset is implemented correctly.

== 29-7 ==

* Step 3: The number of holes in the top flanges of the F-1015C Mid Cabin Decks is one greater than the number of holes drilled into the F-1013 longerons using the template. Go ahead and match-drill that hole into the longerons.

== 29-9 ==

* Step 3: It is possible to violate the edge distance when match-drilling into the longeron. For example, if your longeron is not perfectly curved then the holes will not line up correctly. It's tough because you are match-drilling from underneath, but make sure that you are not drilling too close to the edge of the longeron. You can draw a line with your Sharpee at 3/16" from the outside edge of the lower flange and the color it in -- then use an inspection mirror when clamping onto the bracket below. If you can see any Sharpee through the holes then you are too close to the edge to match drill that hole.

== 29-11 ==
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4218804234907310 FB Post] on how to keep the skin and clamping block in place while bending.
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7830295577091473 FB Post] on how to use two angle pieces to clamp the skin.

== 29-12 ==

In the detail bubble for Figure 2, note that later you will be installing flush rivets into the side flanges of the F-1024E brackets. You should countersink for two AN426AD4 rivets into each of F-01042-L-1 and F-01042-R-1, flush on the aft side.

== 29-13 ==
Consider Markus's write-up to ensure the edge distance is met:
Step 1:
Match-Drill #40 the holes in the F-01069-L-1 & -R-1 Fwd Side Skins and the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels common to the WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Uncleco the Fwd Side Skins from the under the structure. This is not according to plans but makes it simpler to check the edge distance.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Upper Firewall Bracket with a Sharpie.
[[File:Image1.jpg]] 

Mark the center of the middle flange of the Upper Firewall Bracket and the Upper Fuse Channel.
[[File:Image2.jpg]] 

Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Upper Firewall Bracket tight against the Upper Fuse Channel.
[[File:Image3.jpg]] 

Make sure the center lines still align. Also, make sure that the edge distance lines cannot be seen through the holes of the Upper Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #40 the holes and Cleco as you go.
[[File:Image4.jpg]] 

Match-Drill #40 the holes in the fwd side skins and the F-1041-L and -R Lower Fuse Channels common to the WD-1003-L and -R Lower Firewall Brackets.
Use the same technique as described above.

== 29-13 step 3 ==
Separate from Markus's write up above, when I came to drill the four rivets holes
on page 29-13 step 3, I had problems which resulted in me having to make F-1013L again.
It is difficult to get a clamp in there as detailed in the instructions, and still have
space to get the drill in there.
So I used a different method which I later verified with Vans as being ok.

Once the #40 holes are drilled from the skin into F-1013, and generously cleco'ed,
the F-1013 will be nicely flush with the skin.
Then while holding the F-1013 against the F-1001J gusset,
drill the rear most #30 hole up from the gusset into the longeron.

Later once the skin is removed (29-14 step 8), the single hole in F-1013 can be cleco'ed,
the F-1013 clamped to the gusset and the remaining 3 holes drilled.

== 29-14 ==
* Step2 Instead of drilling F-1013 through the F-1039J jig at this point, it is much easier (and more accurate) to wait until the F-1013 is removed and then drill these holes on the bench. I found it is more important to ensure that the F-1039J jig edge is parallel to the edge of F-1013 than to use the #30 rivet holes to set this. If those #30 holes are slightly off, the error will be magnified in the position of the rudder assembly bolt holes. If the F-1039J is not parallel to F-1013, remove all but one cleco, then make the jig parallel, then drill the most aft of the bolt hole. Cleco this hole and drill the remaining bolt holes.

* Step 5 When match drilling from the F-1001B angle into the WD-1002-L / WD-1002-R firewall steel brackets, be aware that it's easy to violate the edge distance in the steel bracket (2 x D, measured from the center of hole). The remedy is to temporarily install a bolt into the engine mount hole to pull the bracket into place and to use a clamp to move the steel bracket to increase edge distance. See [http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=nbnrv10&project=572&category=6009&log=254638&row=60 this build log] [[File:Screen Shot 2024-01-22 at 11.29.55 AM.png|300x300px]]
 See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4932489646872095/ FB post 4/17/2022] See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5936108719843511/ FB post 3/27/2023]

Also consider Markus's write-up for this page:
Step 4:
Match-Drill #30 the holes in the lower flange of the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels into the WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Upper Firewall Bracket with a Sharpie.
[[File:Image5.jpg]] 
Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Upper Firewall bracket tight against the Upper Fuse Channel. Use a small metal plate between the clamp and the upper and lower flange of the Upper Firewall Bracket to push the flanges in.
[[File:Image6.jpg]] 
Make sure that you cannot see the edge distance lines through the holes of the lower flange of the Upper Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #30 the holes. Cleco as you go.

Step 5:
Match-Drill #30 the holes in the F-1001B Firewall Upper Angle into the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels and WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Use the same technique as described above.
Match-Drill #30 the remaining holes aft of the firewall brackets common to the firewall upper angle and the upper fuse channels. Remove the Cleco from the aftmost hole common to these two parts and final-drill the hole #30 on both sides of the aircraft.

Step 6:
Match-drill #30 the holes along the upper and lower flanges of the F-1041-L and -R Lwr Fuse Channels into the WD-1003-L-PC and -R-PC Lower Firewall Brackets.
Make a mark on the Lwr Fuse Channel and Lower Firewall Bracket as long as the Fwd Side Skin is still Clecoed to the structure to make sure those parts align properly once the Fwd Side Skin is removed.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Lower Firewall Bracket with a sharpie.
Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Lower Firewall Bracket tight against the Lwr Fuse Channel. Use a small metal plate between the clamp and the upper and lower flange of the Lower Firewall Bracket to push the flanges in.
[[File:Image7.jpg]] 
Make sure that you cannot see the edge distance lines through the holes of the upper or lower flange of the Lwr Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #30 the holes. Cleco as you go.

* Step 9: It's not clear, but when countersinking the #40 outside holes on the F-1013 Forward Fuselage Longerons, you should do all of them -- the #40 holes common to both the F-01069 Fwd Sdie Skins and F-1070 Mid Side Skins. Additionally, do NOT countersink the #30 holes on the F-01004K Center Section Side Plates; only countersink the #40 holes on these pieces.

== 29-15 ==
* Questions on which holes to dimple? See [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5839137336207317 this FB thread]. Another [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6453842408070137 FB thread on the same topic]

== 29-16 ==
* Step 5: The most forward rivet on the bottom part of the lower firewall bracket is hard to reach. Some trim the top flange of the bracket to allow for using an offset rivet set, others use a large 16" Knipex pair of pliers with a makeshift die for the manufactured head. See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8092829177504777 FB thread]. [[File:Screenshot 2024-09-13 at 8.27.25 AM.png|300x300px]]

== 29-17 ==
* Some of the holes around the door opening are left open. You will cleco the door to the frame using those in order to 1) get the correct position of the door within the insert and 2) lock in the airframe shape into the door when bonding the door shells together. These blanks allow you a place to insert the clecos to hold it. Once the doors are bonded and door install complete, you then rivet those remaining. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9301782943276055 FB thread].
* Assuming you are not considering installing wiring under the rear floors (you shouldn't), you might consider installing the rear floor pans now before the side skins are installed, while it is easier to get access. See page 35-2.

== 29-18 ==

* On this page, do not rivet the skin holes for the F-01088-L-1 and F-01088-R-1 since you will not be installing those pieces until later.

== 29-19 ==
* If you are using the Aerosport interior side panels, don't install the VENT-0004 knob. The Aerosport side vents need a different extension lever which can only be attached once the panel is in place.
* The kit may not include the nylon washers 5610-90-31. They can be obtained at your local hardware store as #10 Nylon washer.

== 29-20 ==
* Don't rivet the forward cabin floor to the center tunnel walls if you are getting electronic injection (SDS or EFII), or intend to install access covers to the side of the tunnel as the rivet holes will be needed. For the SDS pump shelf, you will have 5 stock rivets counting from the front, then the next 11 are to be left out for the fuel pump shelf. For the access covers, see the instructions from Airward.

== 29-21 ==
* Around the start of 2021, Vans updated the design of the landing gear mount to address some concerns with cracking. If you received your fuselage kits after this, you received the SB-00007 kit with the fuselage kit. There's no explanation on how to apply this SB to a kit in construction.

* SB-00007 has been partly applied to new parts in the kit. In particular, the landing gear mount and the forward spar designs have been updated, but the side skins have not. The SB calls for enlarging some holes in the forward spar, however, those holes are already the correct size in newer kits (several 1/4in holes, and one 5/8in on each side). The SB includes two templates (VA-274 & VA-275) and two drill guides. These are not needed at all. The part of the SB that involves drilling into the side skins (F-1069, F-01004K & F-01004T) using the drill templates VA-277 & VA-278 '''''is necessary'''''.

* All of this is covered correctly in the plans. The instructions that come with SB-00007 do not need to be followed at all. If you have any doubts, please call Van's tech support.

[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]

SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS

2025-05-05T07:45:33Z

Caret: /* 29-17 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/29_10.pdf 29_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

== 29-2 ==
Note that when bending the longerons, the template has parts that are almost completely straight. It is easiest to identify that and avoid curving that part (don't just start curving everything at the start).

Also, follow the curve templates very carefully. The curve of the longerons affects the shape of your aircraft, the fit of the cargo door, the fit of some interior panels, etc. Even if you spend ten hours per longeron to get it exactly right that's time well spent.

Note that the "Aft Twist Mark" is not applicable for F-1013-L because it is the shorter longeron.

== 29-3 ==
The instructions don't specify, but you do the FWD TWIST on both longerons since the parts are symmetrical (other than the fact that one is shorter to accommodate the cargo door).

== 29-5 ==

Folding the skins can be pretty difficult, definitely take your time and get a consistent curve. Note that a 60-degree fold may be insufficient -- ultimately, the bottom edge needs to be a full 90 degrees from the side skin. You can force the final fold later with Clecos, but you can end up with a gap at the edge of the skin on the bottom. Suggestions:
* The forward (sharp) edge should be pretty much 90 degrees
* The trailing edge should be 70-75 degrees
* This applies to the fold on the forward side skin as well.

== 29-6 ==

Step 2 and especially Step 4 can be fiddly. Note that the thickness of the AA6-063 is 1/16" thick so consider using a scrap piece of that AA6-063 to make sure the 1/16" offset is implemented correctly.

== 29-7 ==

* Step 3: The number of holes in the top flanges of the F-1015C Mid Cabin Decks is one greater than the number of holes drilled into the F-1013 longerons using the template. Go ahead and match-drill that hole into the longerons.

== 29-9 ==

* Step 3: It is possible to violate the edge distance when match-drilling into the longeron. For example, if your longeron is not perfectly curved then the holes will not line up correctly. It's tough because you are match-drilling from underneath, but make sure that you are not drilling too close to the edge of the longeron. You can draw a line with your Sharpee at 3/16" from the outside edge of the lower flange and the color it in -- then use an inspection mirror when clamping onto the bracket below. If you can see any Sharpee through the holes then you are too close to the edge to match drill that hole.

== 29-11 ==
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4218804234907310 FB Post] on how to keep the skin and clamping block in place while bending.
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7830295577091473 FB Post] on how to use two angle pieces to clamp the skin.

== 29-12 ==

In the detail bubble for Figure 2, note that later you will be installing flush rivets into the side flanges of the F-1024E brackets. You should countersink for two AN426AD4 rivets into each of F-01042-L-1 and F-01042-R-1, flush on the aft side.

== 29-13 ==
Consider Markus's write-up to ensure the edge distance is met:
Step 1:
Match-Drill #40 the holes in the F-01069-L-1 & -R-1 Fwd Side Skins and the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels common to the WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Uncleco the Fwd Side Skins from the under the structure. This is not according to plans but makes it simpler to check the edge distance.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Upper Firewall Bracket with a Sharpie.
[[File:Image1.jpg]] 

Mark the center of the middle flange of the Upper Firewall Bracket and the Upper Fuse Channel.
[[File:Image2.jpg]] 

Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Upper Firewall Bracket tight against the Upper Fuse Channel.
[[File:Image3.jpg]] 

Make sure the center lines still align. Also, make sure that the edge distance lines cannot be seen through the holes of the Upper Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #40 the holes and Cleco as you go.
[[File:Image4.jpg]] 

Match-Drill #40 the holes in the fwd side skins and the F-1041-L and -R Lower Fuse Channels common to the WD-1003-L and -R Lower Firewall Brackets.
Use the same technique as described above.

== 29-13 step 3 ==
Separate from Markus's write up above, when I came to drill the four rivets holes
on page 29-13 step 3, I had problems which resulted in me having to make F-1013L again.
It is difficult to get a clamp in there as detailed in the instructions, and still have
space to get the drill in there.
So I used a different method which I later verified with Vans as being ok.

Once the #40 holes are drilled from the skin into F-1013, and generously cleco'ed,
the F-1013 will be nicely flush with the skin.
Then while holding the F-1013 against the F-1001J gusset,
drill the rear most #30 hole up from the gusset into the longeron.

Later once the skin is removed (29-14 step 8), the single hole in F-1013 can be cleco'ed,
the F-1013 clamped to the gusset and the remaining 3 holes drilled.

== 29-14 ==
* Step2 Instead of drilling F-1013 through the F-1039J jig at this point, it is much easier (and more accurate) to wait until the F-1013 is removed and then drill these holes on the bench. I found it is more important to ensure that the F-1039J jig edge is parallel to the edge of F-1013 than to use the #30 rivet holes to set this. If those #30 holes are slightly off, the error will be magnified in the position of the rudder assembly bolt holes. If the F-1039J is not parallel to F-1013, remove all but one cleco, then make the jig parallel, then drill the most aft of the bolt holes. Cleco this hole and drill the remaining bolt holes.

* Step 5 When match drilling from the F-1001B angle into the WD-1002-L / WD-1002-R firewall steel brackets, be aware that it's easy to violate the edge distance in the steel bracket (2 x D, measured from the center of hole). The remedy is to temporarily install a bolt into the engine mount hole to pull the bracket into place and to use a clamp to move the steel bracket to increase edge distance. See [http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=nbnrv10&project=572&category=6009&log=254638&row=60 this build log] [[File:Screen Shot 2024-01-22 at 11.29.55 AM.png|300x300px]]
 See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4932489646872095/ FB post 4/17/2022] See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5936108719843511/ FB post 3/27/2023]

Also consider Markus's write-up for this page:
Step 4:
Match-Drill #30 the holes in the lower flange of the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels into the WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Upper Firewall Bracket with a Sharpie.
[[File:Image5.jpg]] 
Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Upper Firewall bracket tight against the Upper Fuse Channel. Use a small metal plate between the clamp and the upper and lower flange of the Upper Firewall Bracket to push the flanges in.
[[File:Image6.jpg]] 
Make sure that you cannot see the edge distance lines through the holes of the lower flange of the Upper Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #30 the holes. Cleco as you go.

Step 5:
Match-Drill #30 the holes in the F-1001B Firewall Upper Angle into the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels and WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Use the same technique as described above.
Match-Drill #30 the remaining holes aft of the firewall brackets common to the firewall upper angle and the upper fuse channels. Remove the Cleco from the aftmost hole common to these two parts and final-drill the hole #30 on both sides of the aircraft.

Step 6:
Match-drill #30 the holes along the upper and lower flanges of the F-1041-L and -R Lwr Fuse Channels into the WD-1003-L-PC and -R-PC Lower Firewall Brackets.
Make a mark on the Lwr Fuse Channel and Lower Firewall Bracket as long as the Fwd Side Skin is still Clecoed to the structure to make sure those parts align properly once the Fwd Side Skin is removed.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Lower Firewall Bracket with a sharpie.
Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Lower Firewall Bracket tight against the Lwr Fuse Channel. Use a small metal plate between the clamp and the upper and lower flange of the Lower Firewall Bracket to push the flanges in.
[[File:Image7.jpg]] 
Make sure that you cannot see the edge distance lines through the holes of the upper or lower flange of the Lwr Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #30 the holes. Cleco as you go.

* Step 9: It's not clear, but when countersinking the #40 outside holes on the F-1013 Forward Fuselage Longerons, you should do all of them -- the #40 holes common to both the F-01069 Fwd Sdie Skins and F-1070 Mid Side Skins. Additionally, do NOT countersink the #30 holes on the F-01004K Center Section Side Plates; only countersink the #40 holes on these pieces.

== 29-15 ==
* Questions on which holes to dimple? See [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5839137336207317 this FB thread]. Another [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6453842408070137 FB thread on the same topic]

== 29-16 ==
* Step 5: The most forward rivet on the bottom part of the lower firewall bracket is hard to reach. Some trim the top flange of the bracket to allow for using an offset rivet set, others use a large 16" Knipex pair of pliers with a makeshift die for the manufactured head. See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8092829177504777 FB thread]. [[File:Screenshot 2024-09-13 at 8.27.25 AM.png|300x300px]]

== 29-17 ==
* Some of the holes around the door opening are left open. You will cleco the door to the frame using those in order to 1) get the correct position of the door within the insert and 2) lock in the airframe shape into the door when bonding the door shells together. These blanks allow you a place to insert the clecos to hold it. Once the doors are bonded and door install complete, you then rivet those remaining. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9301782943276055 FB thread].
* Assuming you are not considering installing wiring under the rear floors (you shouldn't), you might consider installing the rear floor pans now before the side skins are installed, while it is easier to get access. See page 35-2.

== 29-18 ==

* On this page, do not rivet the skin holes for the F-01088-L-1 and F-01088-R-1 since you will not be installing those pieces until later.

== 29-19 ==
* If you are using the Aerosport interior side panels, don't install the VENT-0004 knob. The Aerosport side vents need a different extension lever which can only be attached once the panel is in place.
* The kit may not include the nylon washers 5610-90-31. They can be obtained at your local hardware store as #10 Nylon washer.

== 29-20 ==
* Don't rivet the forward cabin floor to the center tunnel walls if you are getting electronic injection (SDS or EFII), or intend to install access covers to the side of the tunnel as the rivet holes will be needed. For the SDS pump shelf, you will have 5 stock rivets counting from the front, then the next 11 are to be left out for the fuel pump shelf. For the access covers, see the instructions from Airward.

== 29-21 ==
* Around the start of 2021, Vans updated the design of the landing gear mount to address some concerns with cracking. If you received your fuselage kits after this, you received the SB-00007 kit with the fuselage kit. There's no explanation on how to apply this SB to a kit in construction.

* SB-00007 has been partly applied to new parts in the kit. In particular, the landing gear mount and the forward spar designs have been updated, but the side skins have not. The SB calls for enlarging some holes in the forward spar, however, those holes are already the correct size in newer kits (several 1/4in holes, and one 5/8in on each side). The SB includes two templates (VA-274 & VA-275) and two drill guides. These are not needed at all. The part of the SB that involves drilling into the side skins (F-1069, F-01004K & F-01004T) using the drill templates VA-277 & VA-278 '''''is necessary'''''.

* All of this is covered correctly in the plans. The instructions that come with SB-00007 do not need to be followed at all. If you have any doubts, please call Van's tech support.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 25: MID FUSE BULKHEADS

2025-05-05T07:36:19Z

Caret: /* PAGE 25-7 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 01/07/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2004/11/25_10.pdf 25_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Hints ===

* If you are jumping straight from the empennage to the fuselage, note that this section, like most of the fuselage sections, has multiple priming steps.
* If your priming process takes setup and cleanup, consider opening the PDF and searching for the word "prime" before you start each section. Consider circling these priming steps on the printed instructions.
* When you hit a priming step, you can usually jump ahead and start working on other portions of the instructions, then perform multiple priming steps all at once, then go back and finish the steps after each circled "prime" step.

=== Notes ===

====PAGE 25-2====

Later in the build process (Section 28, page 28-12, Figure 2) you will need to have 7x double-flush rivets on each side of the forward main spar. That requires you to machine countersink the top/inside of the bottom flange for those 14 holes. The outermost holes on each side are very hard to properly countersink after you have attached the F-01004C center section bulkheads.

So, while you are on this step, I recommend machine countersinking on the top side of the bottom flange (you'll CSK all of the holes in the bottom flange later as part of the normal instructions but they'll be deeper than normal due to the thickness of the bottom skin). I countersunk the top holes approximately the same size as I would do for a normal countersunk rivet factory head. See the image on this page for what it will look like when you are done with Section 28.
[[File:2024-09-18 15.33.48.jpg|thumb|Seven double-flush rivets -- this is the top of the bottom flange of the forward bulkhead, and these are the shop ends of the rivets flush due to the countersinks.]]

====PAGE 25-3====
===== Conduit Summary =====
The holes in the bulkheads are only big enough to have cables run directly through them using snap bushings (vs. in a conduit). Also, there are only two holes on each side and depending on your needs, you need more. 
You do need conduits for sure but only to tunnel underneath the baggage compartment. You can go back to snap bushings forward of the baggage compartment if you like. Some people though like to just run at least some of the conduits all the way from the tailcone to the front. Now that is where the diameter needs to increase from .75 to at least .77 for Van's Nylon conduits. It is a pain to enlarge those holes afterwards since they are tucked in underneath horizontally-running structures. Adding more holes can be done later but is also a bit easer if the bulkheads aren't in the plane yet.
If you run conduits all the way from the back to the front, it will be easy to route the static pitot tube, the pitch and yaw servo cabling, the pitch trim servo cable, the battery cables etc. Also makes cabling for later add-ons easy. 

===== Hints =====
Step 8 details the assembly of the bulkheads to the center section prior to deburring and priming these parts. Now is a very good time to consider whether you will need additional pass-through holes in the bulkheads for items like conduit, pitot, static, and AoA sensor tubing, air conditioning lines, and other electrical circuits. Many builders find that the two holes referenced here and on [[#PAGE 25-4]] are insufficient for all of the required lines and circuits for an RV-10, especially if it is going to have a full glass panel and backup/redundant electrical systems.

Do yourself a favor and read forward in the plans to Sections 29 and OP-37 (even if you do not use the Van's provided wiring harness, OP-37 is very useful in understanding the options for routing electrical circuits).

Later in the build, especially after the side skins are installed, it is quite difficult and awkward to cut new holes for conduit or other pass-throughs. Installing caterpillar or snap bushings can be awkward later, too. You will save considerable time later by thinking ahead at this point.

See also Section 26 where the F-1017 under-seat ribs can be much more easily modified before installation to allow conduit and antenna installation, which might not be done until Section 35 or later.

'''ENSURE that any additional holes you cut in the bulkheads are properly spaced and, if needed, reinforced per the guidelines in AC43.13.'''

See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5714844748636577 FB thread] on the subject. 
See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5766330576821327 FB thread] on the subject.

====PAGE 25-4====
* Step 6 Step 6 requires you to 'Rivet the Mid Seat Rail Support Subassemblies, F-1004C-L and -R Center Section Bulkheads and F-1004N Stiffener Angles to the F-1004A Center Section Bulkhead per the callouts in Figure 2.' Figure 2 in the plans (Rev 1 Date 1/7/21) omits the quantity and rivets to be used. The older plans (Rev 0 Date 7/24/14) shows the rivets and places.
* Step 7 Don't insert the snap bushings instead widen the two holes to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later. Also drill a third / forth hole with same diameter underneath the two holes for a more conduits if desired.

====PAGE 25-5====
* Step 7: Check that F-1004J has the correct length and is not pushing the spar caps out of their proper position where the wing attach bolt holes no longer line up through all layers. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7122547791199592 FB Post 2/2024].

====PAGE 25-6====
*Step 4 Don't insert the snap bushings instead widen the two holes to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later. Also drill a third and forth hole with same diameter underneath the two holes for more conduits.

====PAGE 25-7====
Unless otherwise specified by Vans, all rivets should have their machine heads to the inside of the foot well. That is, the machine heads should be on the forward most F-1005B. This will aid the installation of the floor pan on page 35-2.

* Enlarge the two holes at the lower corners of F-1005A to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later
* Step 3: In section 29, page 29-14, step 9, you will be instructed to machine countersink the outboard #40 holes on the flanges of the F-1005C-L and F-1005C-R Bulkhead Side Channels. If your kit is newer and has final-sized holes, you will not need to final-drill these holes between now and then. Consider countersinking these #40 holes now as it is somewhat easier than doing it after it has been riveted to the fuselage. They should be flush on the outside and should accommodate an AN3 rivet with a 0.032 skin. Section 29-18 shows these five countersunk locations (on the inside of the F-1005C-L and -R parts) to be riveted double flush, just as the seven locations (per side) were done as shown above for Section 25-3.
* Step 5: If you will NOT have 5-point harnesses in the rear seats, you probably don't want to rivet the F-1005D crotch-strap lugs in this step.

====PAGE 25-8====
If you are building from a final sized fuselage kit,
it is easier to dimple the nutplate rivet holes in F-1034C L&R now rather than
later in section 33 page 9 step 9.

I am still unable to interpret Figure 1 -- is the part shown concave or convex? I'm not sure. But F-1034D-L and F-1034D-R are definitely different. I thought I had it right, I riveted on this page, and I didn't notice I had them backwards until the end of Section 26. I found that my F-1034C-L and F-1034C-R were angled outboard and they should be more or less perpendicular to F-1034A. I don't see a downside to leaving these cleco'd and riveting in section 26.

* Enlarge the two holes at the lower corners of F-1034A to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 26: MID FUSE RIBS & BOTTOM SKINS

2025-05-05T07:33:02Z

Caret: /* PAGE 26-5 */

=== Supplemental Instructions ===
Planes with the old flap motor (without an integrated position sensor) can be upgraded to use the new flap motor with integrated position sensor. OP 64 is the manual for how to do the upgrade.
* 09/05/22 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/op-64/ OP-64 FLAP MOTOR RETROFIT]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 11/05/22 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/26_10.pdf 26_10.pdf]
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/26_10.pdf 26_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
=== Discussions ===
* [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=217809 VAF thread on chapter 26 errors]
=== Notes ===

====PAGE 26-2 ====
* New Flap Motor Variant
The forward edges of the F-1066C-2-L and F-1066C-2-R reinforcement angles are not flush with the forward edge of the seatbelt attach bar horizontal extension, rather they hang over a bit. They would sit flush if left and right angles were switched, however the plans say otherwise.
* Unless otherwise specified by Vans, all rivets should have their machine heads to the inside of the foot well. That is, the machine heads should be on the F-814HPP side. This will aid the installation of the floor pan on page 35-2.

====PAGE 26-3 ====
Unless otherwise specified by Vans, all rivets should have their machine heads to the inside of the foot well. That is, the machine heads should be on the F-814HPP side. This will aid the installation of the floor pan on page 35-2.

If you have part F-1016D (seatbelt strap) with an extra tab on the side and two additional holes but your manual depicts that part without flanges/extra holes, you are experiencing the transition from the old flap motor to the new flap motor where the tab is no longer needed. Your manual is a new version but Vans sent you the older part with the tab. According to Vans, just remove the tab and match drill the two extra holes and use same rivets as the other surrounding holes. For details, see this FB thread [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4880956025358791/ (FB Link 3/28/2022]) and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4891736740947386/ (FB Link 4/1/2022]) '''If your plans don't match what you have, check the electronic version of the plans which should show up under your name in the vans store.

Step 6 gotcha (Step 7 on V2 of 7/16/21 of the page): Plans call for 'Dimple the screw holes in the inboard flange of the seat rib intercostals that correspond to the flush nut plates...' Note that there are 3 nut plates on this flange, but only 2 of them are flush nut plates. The top nut plate is a K1000-08 and must not have its screw hole dimpled.

[[File:26-3gotcha.png|426x426px]]

====PAGE 26-4 ====
There are plans provided as Rev 0, dated 7/24/14, that accidentally show the seat belt fitting on the wrong side of the left outboard rib. A correct page 26-4, also marked Rev 0 and with same date was on the thumb drive of some builders. The newest version provided on their website, marked as Rev 1 dated 2/24/22 shows it also on the wrong side. However, the detailed figure on page 26-2 shows it correctly.

====PAGE 26-5 ====
Unless otherwise specified by Vans, all rivets should have their machine heads to the inside of the foot well. That is, the shop heads should be on the F-1017A rib side. This will aid the installation of the floor pan on page 35-2.

Step 5: it doesn't explicitly say anything about fluting the F-1018-L and F-1018-R ribs. Even if it did, I might have assumed if it was straight it was good. Well, it turns out that it needs to not be straight to match the holes in the bottom skin. It is a real pain to try to flute it later.

Step 10: When riveting the F-1015A-L and F-1015A-R outboard seat ribs to the rear spar bulkhead, make sure that the forward edge nests inside the F-1004D-L and F-1004D-R bulkheads. You can see this on page 26-1 but it isn't shown or called out on page 26-5.

If you haven't updated your plans in a while, ensure you dimple the #40 holes in the web of F-1015A-L/R. There was a revision on page 26-5 in July of 2021 that added this as step 1. However, don't dimple the holes that are on the flange of F-1015A-L/R which interfaces with F-1004D-L/R.

Note that the F-1015A-R/L seat ribs have a joggle joint on the front edge with the F-1004D-L/R bulkhead where the rib will be on the inside of the outer flange of the bulkhead. Similarly, the upper portion of the front edge of the F-1018-R/L rib goes inside of the F-1005C-L/R bulkhead however, its lower part goes outside of F-1005C-L/R.

Consider at this point whether you need access holes in the F-1017 under-seat ribs for conduit and/or antenna wiring. Many builders cut holes in the F-1017 ribs for conduit passthroughs. These holes will be much easier to cut at this point.

Also consider marking and cutting/installing antenna doublers on the bottom skins in this general section. This will be much easier now than later, when the seat plates are permanently riveted in place.

====PAGE 26-6 ====
This is when I realized that I had the brackets swapped on my fuselage bulkhead assembly created at the end of Section 25. Make sure the vertical bulkhead components are more or less perpendicular to the bottom bulkhead and not leaning outward. Now is the time to fix this if it is incorrect.

Double-check that the left and right WD-1008-L / WD-1008-R step weldment parts are labeled correctly by Vans. There are two reports of them being swapped.
See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4902491573205236 FB Post 4/6/2022].

WD-1008-L / WD-1008-R step weldments have 16 holes each. The corresponding F-1021-L / F-1021-R outboard baggage ribs are missing four of these holes, with no instructions on the page to match drill. Vans support confirmed (12/15/2022 - Gary Keyser support engineer) that it is acceptable to match drill through the WD-1008 into the F-1021 and rivet. The plans corroborate this as they call out 32x AN470AD4-4 rivets.

Step 9 refers to "keeper rivets" which I thought meant temporary rivets, but that's not correct. You put the AN426AD3-4 rivets into the two places per side like any normal rivet. You do NOT put anything in the other five rivet holes on each side as part of this flange. Later (Section 29), the skin will rivet into those other five holes, and the keeper rivets will remain where they are, hidden underneath the skin. The keeper rivets keep everything together until the skin can be properly riveted later.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 26: MID FUSE RIBS & BOTTOM SKINS

2025-05-05T07:32:34Z

Caret: /* PAGE 26-5 */

=== Supplemental Instructions ===
Planes with the old flap motor (without an integrated position sensor) can be upgraded to use the new flap motor with integrated position sensor. OP 64 is the manual for how to do the upgrade.
* 09/05/22 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/op-64/ OP-64 FLAP MOTOR RETROFIT]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 11/05/22 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/26_10.pdf 26_10.pdf]
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/26_10.pdf 26_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
=== Discussions ===
* [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=217809 VAF thread on chapter 26 errors]
=== Notes ===

====PAGE 26-2 ====
* New Flap Motor Variant
The forward edges of the F-1066C-2-L and F-1066C-2-R reinforcement angles are not flush with the forward edge of the seatbelt attach bar horizontal extension, rather they hang over a bit. They would sit flush if left and right angles were switched, however the plans say otherwise.
* Unless otherwise specified by Vans, all rivets should have their machine heads to the inside of the foot well. That is, the machine heads should be on the F-814HPP side. This will aid the installation of the floor pan on page 35-2.

====PAGE 26-3 ====
Unless otherwise specified by Vans, all rivets should have their machine heads to the inside of the foot well. That is, the machine heads should be on the F-814HPP side. This will aid the installation of the floor pan on page 35-2.

If you have part F-1016D (seatbelt strap) with an extra tab on the side and two additional holes but your manual depicts that part without flanges/extra holes, you are experiencing the transition from the old flap motor to the new flap motor where the tab is no longer needed. Your manual is a new version but Vans sent you the older part with the tab. According to Vans, just remove the tab and match drill the two extra holes and use same rivets as the other surrounding holes. For details, see this FB thread [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4880956025358791/ (FB Link 3/28/2022]) and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4891736740947386/ (FB Link 4/1/2022]) '''If your plans don't match what you have, check the electronic version of the plans which should show up under your name in the vans store.

Step 6 gotcha (Step 7 on V2 of 7/16/21 of the page): Plans call for 'Dimple the screw holes in the inboard flange of the seat rib intercostals that correspond to the flush nut plates...' Note that there are 3 nut plates on this flange, but only 2 of them are flush nut plates. The top nut plate is a K1000-08 and must not have its screw hole dimpled.

[[File:26-3gotcha.png|426x426px]]

====PAGE 26-4 ====
There are plans provided as Rev 0, dated 7/24/14, that accidentally show the seat belt fitting on the wrong side of the left outboard rib. A correct page 26-4, also marked Rev 0 and with same date was on the thumb drive of some builders. The newest version provided on their website, marked as Rev 1 dated 2/24/22 shows it also on the wrong side. However, the detailed figure on page 26-2 shows it correctly.

====PAGE 26-5 ====
Unless otherwise specified by Vans, all rivets should have their machine heads to the inside of the foot well. That is, the machine heads should be on the F-1017A rib side. This will aid the installation of the floor pan on page 35-2.

Step 5: it doesn't explicitly say anything about fluting the F-1018-L and F-1018-R ribs. Even if it did, I might have assumed if it was straight it was good. Well, it turns out that it needs to not be straight to match the holes in the bottom skin. It is a real pain to try to flute it later.

Step 10: When riveting the F-1015A-L and F-1015A-R outboard seat ribs to the rear spar bulkhead, make sure that the forward edge nests inside the F-1004D-L and F-1004D-R bulkheads. You can see this on page 26-1 but it isn't shown or called out on page 26-5.

If you haven't updated your plans in a while, ensure you dimple the #40 holes in the web of F-1015A-L/R. There was a revision on page 26-5 in July of 2021 that added this as step 1. However, don't dimple the holes that are on the flange of F-1015A-L/R which interfaces with F-1004D-L/R.

Note that the F-1015A-R/L seat ribs have a joggle joint on the front edge with the F-1004D-L/R bulkhead where the rib will be on the inside of the outer flange of the bulkhead. Similarly, the upper portion of the front edge of the F-1018-R/L rib goes inside of the F-1005C-L/R bulkhead however, its lower part goes outside of F-1005C-L/R.

Consider at this point whether you need access holes in the F-1017 under-seat ribs for conduit and/or antenna wiring. Many builders cut holes in the F-1017 ribs for conduit passthroughs. These holes will be much easier to cut at this point.

Also consider marking and cutting/installing antenna doublers on the bottom skins in this general section. This will be much easier now than later, when the seat plates are permanently riveted in place.

====PAGE 26-6 ====
This is when I realized that I had the brackets swapped on my fuselage bulkhead assembly created at the end of Section 25. Make sure the vertical bulkhead components are more or less perpendicular to the bottom bulkhead and not leaning outward. Now is the time to fix this if it is incorrect.

Double-check that the left and right WD-1008-L / WD-1008-R step weldment parts are labeled correctly by Vans. There are two reports of them being swapped.
See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4902491573205236 FB Post 4/6/2022].

WD-1008-L / WD-1008-R step weldments have 16 holes each. The corresponding F-1021-L / F-1021-R outboard baggage ribs are missing four of these holes, with no instructions on the page to match drill. Vans support confirmed (12/15/2022 - Gary Keyser support engineer) that it is acceptable to match drill through the WD-1008 into the F-1021 and rivet. The plans corroborate this as they call out 32x AN470AD4-4 rivets.

Step 9 refers to "keeper rivets" which I thought meant temporary rivets, but that's not correct. You put the AN426AD3-4 rivets into the two places per side like any normal rivet. You do NOT put anything in the other five rivet holes on each side as part of this flange. Later (Section 29), the skin will rivet into those other five holes, and the keeper rivets will remain where they are, hidden underneath the skin. The keeper rivets keep everything together until the skin can be properly riveted later.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 26: MID FUSE RIBS & BOTTOM SKINS

2025-05-05T07:30:54Z

Caret: /* PAGE 26-5 */

=== Supplemental Instructions ===
Planes with the old flap motor (without an integrated position sensor) can be upgraded to use the new flap motor with integrated position sensor. OP 64 is the manual for how to do the upgrade.
* 09/05/22 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/op-64/ OP-64 FLAP MOTOR RETROFIT]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 11/05/22 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/26_10.pdf 26_10.pdf]
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/26_10.pdf 26_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
=== Discussions ===
* [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=217809 VAF thread on chapter 26 errors]
=== Notes ===

====PAGE 26-2 ====
* New Flap Motor Variant
The forward edges of the F-1066C-2-L and F-1066C-2-R reinforcement angles are not flush with the forward edge of the seatbelt attach bar horizontal extension, rather they hang over a bit. They would sit flush if left and right angles were switched, however the plans say otherwise.
* Unless otherwise specified by Vans, all rivets should have their machine heads to the inside of the foot well. That is, the machine heads should be on the F-814HPP side. This will aid the installation of the floor pan on page 35-2.

====PAGE 26-3 ====
Unless otherwise specified by Vans, all rivets should have their machine heads to the inside of the foot well. That is, the machine heads should be on the F-814HPP side. This will aid the installation of the floor pan on page 35-2.

If you have part F-1016D (seatbelt strap) with an extra tab on the side and two additional holes but your manual depicts that part without flanges/extra holes, you are experiencing the transition from the old flap motor to the new flap motor where the tab is no longer needed. Your manual is a new version but Vans sent you the older part with the tab. According to Vans, just remove the tab and match drill the two extra holes and use same rivets as the other surrounding holes. For details, see this FB thread [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4880956025358791/ (FB Link 3/28/2022]) and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4891736740947386/ (FB Link 4/1/2022]) '''If your plans don't match what you have, check the electronic version of the plans which should show up under your name in the vans store.

Step 6 gotcha (Step 7 on V2 of 7/16/21 of the page): Plans call for 'Dimple the screw holes in the inboard flange of the seat rib intercostals that correspond to the flush nut plates...' Note that there are 3 nut plates on this flange, but only 2 of them are flush nut plates. The top nut plate is a K1000-08 and must not have its screw hole dimpled.

[[File:26-3gotcha.png|426x426px]]

====PAGE 26-4 ====
There are plans provided as Rev 0, dated 7/24/14, that accidentally show the seat belt fitting on the wrong side of the left outboard rib. A correct page 26-4, also marked Rev 0 and with same date was on the thumb drive of some builders. The newest version provided on their website, marked as Rev 1 dated 2/24/22 shows it also on the wrong side. However, the detailed figure on page 26-2 shows it correctly.

====PAGE 26-5 ====
Unless otherwise specified by Vans, all rivets should have their machine heads to the inside of the foot well. That is, the machine heads should be on the F-814HPP side. This will aid the installation of the floor pan on page 35-2.

Step 5: it doesn't explicitly say anything about fluting the F-1018-L and F-1018-R ribs. Even if it did, I might have assumed if it was straight it was good. Well, it turns out that it needs to not be straight to match the holes in the bottom skin. It is a real pain to try to flute it later.

Step 10: When riveting the F-1015A-L and F-1015A-R outboard seat ribs to the rear spar bulkhead, make sure that the forward edge nests inside the F-1004D-L and F-1004D-R bulkheads. You can see this on page 26-1 but it isn't shown or called out on page 26-5.

If you haven't updated your plans in a while, ensure you dimple the #40 holes in the web of F-1015A-L/R. There was a revision on page 26-5 in July of 2021 that added this as step 1. However, don't dimple the holes that are on the flange of F-1015A-L/R which interfaces with F-1004D-L/R.

Note that the F-1015A-R/L seat ribs have a joggle joint on the front edge with the F-1004D-L/R bulkhead where the rib will be on the inside of the outer flange of the bulkhead. Similarly, the upper portion of the front edge of the F-1018-R/L rib goes inside of the F-1005C-L/R bulkhead however, its lower part goes outside of F-1005C-L/R.

Consider at this point whether you need access holes in the F-1017 under-seat ribs for conduit and/or antenna wiring. Many builders cut holes in the F-1017 ribs for conduit passthroughs. These holes will be much easier to cut at this point.

Also consider marking and cutting/installing antenna doublers on the bottom skins in this general section. This will be much easier now than later, when the seat plates are permanently riveted in place.

====PAGE 26-6 ====
This is when I realized that I had the brackets swapped on my fuselage bulkhead assembly created at the end of Section 25. Make sure the vertical bulkhead components are more or less perpendicular to the bottom bulkhead and not leaning outward. Now is the time to fix this if it is incorrect.

Double-check that the left and right WD-1008-L / WD-1008-R step weldment parts are labeled correctly by Vans. There are two reports of them being swapped.
See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4902491573205236 FB Post 4/6/2022].

WD-1008-L / WD-1008-R step weldments have 16 holes each. The corresponding F-1021-L / F-1021-R outboard baggage ribs are missing four of these holes, with no instructions on the page to match drill. Vans support confirmed (12/15/2022 - Gary Keyser support engineer) that it is acceptable to match drill through the WD-1008 into the F-1021 and rivet. The plans corroborate this as they call out 32x AN470AD4-4 rivets.

Step 9 refers to "keeper rivets" which I thought meant temporary rivets, but that's not correct. You put the AN426AD3-4 rivets into the two places per side like any normal rivet. You do NOT put anything in the other five rivet holes on each side as part of this flange. Later (Section 29), the skin will rivet into those other five holes, and the keeper rivets will remain where they are, hidden underneath the skin. The keeper rivets keep everything together until the skin can be properly riveted later.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 26: MID FUSE RIBS & BOTTOM SKINS

2025-05-05T07:29:34Z

Caret: /* PAGE 26-2 */

=== Supplemental Instructions ===
Planes with the old flap motor (without an integrated position sensor) can be upgraded to use the new flap motor with integrated position sensor. OP 64 is the manual for how to do the upgrade.
* 09/05/22 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/op-64/ OP-64 FLAP MOTOR RETROFIT]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 11/05/22 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/26_10.pdf 26_10.pdf]
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/26_10.pdf 26_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
=== Discussions ===
* [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=217809 VAF thread on chapter 26 errors]
=== Notes ===

====PAGE 26-2 ====
* New Flap Motor Variant
The forward edges of the F-1066C-2-L and F-1066C-2-R reinforcement angles are not flush with the forward edge of the seatbelt attach bar horizontal extension, rather they hang over a bit. They would sit flush if left and right angles were switched, however the plans say otherwise.
* Unless otherwise specified by Vans, all rivets should have their machine heads to the inside of the foot well. That is, the machine heads should be on the F-814HPP side. This will aid the installation of the floor pan on page 35-2.

====PAGE 26-3 ====
Unless otherwise specified by Vans, all rivets should have their machine heads to the inside of the foot well. That is, the machine heads should be on the F-814HPP side. This will aid the installation of the floor pan on page 35-2.

If you have part F-1016D (seatbelt strap) with an extra tab on the side and two additional holes but your manual depicts that part without flanges/extra holes, you are experiencing the transition from the old flap motor to the new flap motor where the tab is no longer needed. Your manual is a new version but Vans sent you the older part with the tab. According to Vans, just remove the tab and match drill the two extra holes and use same rivets as the other surrounding holes. For details, see this FB thread [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4880956025358791/ (FB Link 3/28/2022]) and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4891736740947386/ (FB Link 4/1/2022]) '''If your plans don't match what you have, check the electronic version of the plans which should show up under your name in the vans store.

Step 6 gotcha (Step 7 on V2 of 7/16/21 of the page): Plans call for 'Dimple the screw holes in the inboard flange of the seat rib intercostals that correspond to the flush nut plates...' Note that there are 3 nut plates on this flange, but only 2 of them are flush nut plates. The top nut plate is a K1000-08 and must not have its screw hole dimpled.

[[File:26-3gotcha.png|426x426px]]

====PAGE 26-4 ====
There are plans provided as Rev 0, dated 7/24/14, that accidentally show the seat belt fitting on the wrong side of the left outboard rib. A correct page 26-4, also marked Rev 0 and with same date was on the thumb drive of some builders. The newest version provided on their website, marked as Rev 1 dated 2/24/22 shows it also on the wrong side. However, the detailed figure on page 26-2 shows it correctly.

====PAGE 26-5 ====
Step 5: it doesn't explicitly say anything about fluting the F-1018-L and F-1018-R ribs. Even if it did, I might have assumed if it was straight it was good. Well, it turns out that it needs to not be straight to match the holes in the bottom skin. It is a real pain to try to flute it later.

Step 10: When riveting the F-1015A-L and F-1015A-R outboard seat ribs to the rear spar bulkhead, make sure that the forward edge nests inside the F-1004D-L and F-1004D-R bulkheads. You can see this on page 26-1 but it isn't shown or called out on page 26-5.

If you haven't updated your plans in a while, ensure you dimple the #40 holes in the web of F-1015A-L/R. There was a revision on page 26-5 in July of 2021 that added this as step 1. However, don't dimple the holes that are on the flange of F-1015A-L/R which interfaces with F-1004D-L/R.

Note that the F-1015A-R/L seat ribs have a joggle joint on the front edge with the F-1004D-L/R bulkhead where the rib will be on the inside of the outer flange of the bulkhead. Similarly, the upper portion of the front edge of the F-1018-R/L rib goes inside of the F-1005C-L/R bulkhead however, its lower part goes outside of F-1005C-L/R.

Consider at this point whether you need access holes in the F-1017 under-seat ribs for conduit and/or antenna wiring. Many builders cut holes in the F-1017 ribs for conduit passthroughs. These holes will be much easier to cut at this point.

Also consider marking and cutting/installing antenna doublers on the bottom skins in this general section. This will be much easier now than later, when the seat plates are permanently riveted in place.

====PAGE 26-6 ====
This is when I realized that I had the brackets swapped on my fuselage bulkhead assembly created at the end of Section 25. Make sure the vertical bulkhead components are more or less perpendicular to the bottom bulkhead and not leaning outward. Now is the time to fix this if it is incorrect.

Double-check that the left and right WD-1008-L / WD-1008-R step weldment parts are labeled correctly by Vans. There are two reports of them being swapped.
See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4902491573205236 FB Post 4/6/2022].

WD-1008-L / WD-1008-R step weldments have 16 holes each. The corresponding F-1021-L / F-1021-R outboard baggage ribs are missing four of these holes, with no instructions on the page to match drill. Vans support confirmed (12/15/2022 - Gary Keyser support engineer) that it is acceptable to match drill through the WD-1008 into the F-1021 and rivet. The plans corroborate this as they call out 32x AN470AD4-4 rivets.

Step 9 refers to "keeper rivets" which I thought meant temporary rivets, but that's not correct. You put the AN426AD3-4 rivets into the two places per side like any normal rivet. You do NOT put anything in the other five rivet holes on each side as part of this flange. Later (Section 29), the skin will rivet into those other five holes, and the keeper rivets will remain where they are, hidden underneath the skin. The keeper rivets keep everything together until the skin can be properly riveted later.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 26: MID FUSE RIBS & BOTTOM SKINS

2025-05-05T07:29:11Z

Caret: /* PAGE 26-3 */

=== Supplemental Instructions ===
Planes with the old flap motor (without an integrated position sensor) can be upgraded to use the new flap motor with integrated position sensor. OP 64 is the manual for how to do the upgrade.
* 09/05/22 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/op-64/ OP-64 FLAP MOTOR RETROFIT]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 11/05/22 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/26_10.pdf 26_10.pdf]
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/26_10.pdf 26_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
=== Discussions ===
* [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=217809 VAF thread on chapter 26 errors]
=== Notes ===

====PAGE 26-2 ====
* New Flap Motor Variant
The forward edges of the F-1066C-2-L and F-1066C-2-R reinforcement angles are not flush with the forward edge of the seatbelt attach bar horizontal extension, rather they hang over a bit. They would sit flush if left and right angles were switched, however the plans say otherwise.
* Unless otherwise specified by Vans, all rivets should have their machine heads to the inside of the foot well. that is, the machine heads should be on the F-814HPP side. This will aid the installation of the floor pan on page 35-2.

====PAGE 26-3 ====
Unless otherwise specified by Vans, all rivets should have their machine heads to the inside of the foot well. That is, the machine heads should be on the F-814HPP side. This will aid the installation of the floor pan on page 35-2.

If you have part F-1016D (seatbelt strap) with an extra tab on the side and two additional holes but your manual depicts that part without flanges/extra holes, you are experiencing the transition from the old flap motor to the new flap motor where the tab is no longer needed. Your manual is a new version but Vans sent you the older part with the tab. According to Vans, just remove the tab and match drill the two extra holes and use same rivets as the other surrounding holes. For details, see this FB thread [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4880956025358791/ (FB Link 3/28/2022]) and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4891736740947386/ (FB Link 4/1/2022]) '''If your plans don't match what you have, check the electronic version of the plans which should show up under your name in the vans store.

Step 6 gotcha (Step 7 on V2 of 7/16/21 of the page): Plans call for 'Dimple the screw holes in the inboard flange of the seat rib intercostals that correspond to the flush nut plates...' Note that there are 3 nut plates on this flange, but only 2 of them are flush nut plates. The top nut plate is a K1000-08 and must not have its screw hole dimpled.

[[File:26-3gotcha.png|426x426px]]

====PAGE 26-4 ====
There are plans provided as Rev 0, dated 7/24/14, that accidentally show the seat belt fitting on the wrong side of the left outboard rib. A correct page 26-4, also marked Rev 0 and with same date was on the thumb drive of some builders. The newest version provided on their website, marked as Rev 1 dated 2/24/22 shows it also on the wrong side. However, the detailed figure on page 26-2 shows it correctly.

====PAGE 26-5 ====
Step 5: it doesn't explicitly say anything about fluting the F-1018-L and F-1018-R ribs. Even if it did, I might have assumed if it was straight it was good. Well, it turns out that it needs to not be straight to match the holes in the bottom skin. It is a real pain to try to flute it later.

Step 10: When riveting the F-1015A-L and F-1015A-R outboard seat ribs to the rear spar bulkhead, make sure that the forward edge nests inside the F-1004D-L and F-1004D-R bulkheads. You can see this on page 26-1 but it isn't shown or called out on page 26-5.

If you haven't updated your plans in a while, ensure you dimple the #40 holes in the web of F-1015A-L/R. There was a revision on page 26-5 in July of 2021 that added this as step 1. However, don't dimple the holes that are on the flange of F-1015A-L/R which interfaces with F-1004D-L/R.

Note that the F-1015A-R/L seat ribs have a joggle joint on the front edge with the F-1004D-L/R bulkhead where the rib will be on the inside of the outer flange of the bulkhead. Similarly, the upper portion of the front edge of the F-1018-R/L rib goes inside of the F-1005C-L/R bulkhead however, its lower part goes outside of F-1005C-L/R.

Consider at this point whether you need access holes in the F-1017 under-seat ribs for conduit and/or antenna wiring. Many builders cut holes in the F-1017 ribs for conduit passthroughs. These holes will be much easier to cut at this point.

Also consider marking and cutting/installing antenna doublers on the bottom skins in this general section. This will be much easier now than later, when the seat plates are permanently riveted in place.

====PAGE 26-6 ====
This is when I realized that I had the brackets swapped on my fuselage bulkhead assembly created at the end of Section 25. Make sure the vertical bulkhead components are more or less perpendicular to the bottom bulkhead and not leaning outward. Now is the time to fix this if it is incorrect.

Double-check that the left and right WD-1008-L / WD-1008-R step weldment parts are labeled correctly by Vans. There are two reports of them being swapped.
See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4902491573205236 FB Post 4/6/2022].

WD-1008-L / WD-1008-R step weldments have 16 holes each. The corresponding F-1021-L / F-1021-R outboard baggage ribs are missing four of these holes, with no instructions on the page to match drill. Vans support confirmed (12/15/2022 - Gary Keyser support engineer) that it is acceptable to match drill through the WD-1008 into the F-1021 and rivet. The plans corroborate this as they call out 32x AN470AD4-4 rivets.

Step 9 refers to "keeper rivets" which I thought meant temporary rivets, but that's not correct. You put the AN426AD3-4 rivets into the two places per side like any normal rivet. You do NOT put anything in the other five rivet holes on each side as part of this flange. Later (Section 29), the skin will rivet into those other five holes, and the keeper rivets will remain where they are, hidden underneath the skin. The keeper rivets keep everything together until the skin can be properly riveted later.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 26: MID FUSE RIBS & BOTTOM SKINS

2025-05-05T07:27:12Z

Caret: /* PAGE 26-2 */

=== Supplemental Instructions ===
Planes with the old flap motor (without an integrated position sensor) can be upgraded to use the new flap motor with integrated position sensor. OP 64 is the manual for how to do the upgrade.
* 09/05/22 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/op-64/ OP-64 FLAP MOTOR RETROFIT]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 11/05/22 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/26_10.pdf 26_10.pdf]
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/26_10.pdf 26_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]
=== Discussions ===
* [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=217809 VAF thread on chapter 26 errors]
=== Notes ===

====PAGE 26-2 ====
* New Flap Motor Variant
The forward edges of the F-1066C-2-L and F-1066C-2-R reinforcement angles are not flush with the forward edge of the seatbelt attach bar horizontal extension, rather they hang over a bit. They would sit flush if left and right angles were switched, however the plans say otherwise.
* Unless otherwise specified by Vans, all rivets should have their machine heads to the inside of the foot well. that is, the machine heads should be on the F-814HPP side. This will aid the installation of the floor pan on page 35-2.

====PAGE 26-3 ====
If you have part F-1016D (seatbelt strap) with an extra tab on the side and two additional holes but your manual depicts that part without flanges/extra holes, you are experiencing the transition from the old flap motor to the new flap motor where the tab is no longer needed. Your manual is a new version but Vans sent you the older part with the tab. According to Vans, just remove the tab and match drill the two extra holes and use same rivets as the other surrounding holes. For details, see this FB thread [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4880956025358791/ (FB Link 3/28/2022]) and [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4891736740947386/ (FB Link 4/1/2022]) '''If your plans don't match what you have, check the electronic version of the plans which should show up under your name in the vans store.

Step 6 gotcha (Step 7 on V2 of 7/16/21 of the page): Plans call for 'Dimple the screw holes in the inboard flange of the seat rib intercostals that correspond to the flush nut plates...' Note that there are 3 nut plates on this flange, but only 2 of them are flush nut plates. The top nut plate is a K1000-08 and must not have its screw hole dimpled.

[[File:26-3gotcha.png|426x426px]]

====PAGE 26-4 ====
There are plans provided as Rev 0, dated 7/24/14, that accidentally show the seat belt fitting on the wrong side of the left outboard rib. A correct page 26-4, also marked Rev 0 and with same date was on the thumb drive of some builders. The newest version provided on their website, marked as Rev 1 dated 2/24/22 shows it also on the wrong side. However, the detailed figure on page 26-2 shows it correctly.

====PAGE 26-5 ====
Step 5: it doesn't explicitly say anything about fluting the F-1018-L and F-1018-R ribs. Even if it did, I might have assumed if it was straight it was good. Well, it turns out that it needs to not be straight to match the holes in the bottom skin. It is a real pain to try to flute it later.

Step 10: When riveting the F-1015A-L and F-1015A-R outboard seat ribs to the rear spar bulkhead, make sure that the forward edge nests inside the F-1004D-L and F-1004D-R bulkheads. You can see this on page 26-1 but it isn't shown or called out on page 26-5.

If you haven't updated your plans in a while, ensure you dimple the #40 holes in the web of F-1015A-L/R. There was a revision on page 26-5 in July of 2021 that added this as step 1. However, don't dimple the holes that are on the flange of F-1015A-L/R which interfaces with F-1004D-L/R.

Note that the F-1015A-R/L seat ribs have a joggle joint on the front edge with the F-1004D-L/R bulkhead where the rib will be on the inside of the outer flange of the bulkhead. Similarly, the upper portion of the front edge of the F-1018-R/L rib goes inside of the F-1005C-L/R bulkhead however, its lower part goes outside of F-1005C-L/R.

Consider at this point whether you need access holes in the F-1017 under-seat ribs for conduit and/or antenna wiring. Many builders cut holes in the F-1017 ribs for conduit passthroughs. These holes will be much easier to cut at this point.

Also consider marking and cutting/installing antenna doublers on the bottom skins in this general section. This will be much easier now than later, when the seat plates are permanently riveted in place.

====PAGE 26-6 ====
This is when I realized that I had the brackets swapped on my fuselage bulkhead assembly created at the end of Section 25. Make sure the vertical bulkhead components are more or less perpendicular to the bottom bulkhead and not leaning outward. Now is the time to fix this if it is incorrect.

Double-check that the left and right WD-1008-L / WD-1008-R step weldment parts are labeled correctly by Vans. There are two reports of them being swapped.
See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4902491573205236 FB Post 4/6/2022].

WD-1008-L / WD-1008-R step weldments have 16 holes each. The corresponding F-1021-L / F-1021-R outboard baggage ribs are missing four of these holes, with no instructions on the page to match drill. Vans support confirmed (12/15/2022 - Gary Keyser support engineer) that it is acceptable to match drill through the WD-1008 into the F-1021 and rivet. The plans corroborate this as they call out 32x AN470AD4-4 rivets.

Step 9 refers to "keeper rivets" which I thought meant temporary rivets, but that's not correct. You put the AN426AD3-4 rivets into the two places per side like any normal rivet. You do NOT put anything in the other five rivet holes on each side as part of this flange. Later (Section 29), the skin will rivet into those other five holes, and the keeper rivets will remain where they are, hidden underneath the skin. The keeper rivets keep everything together until the skin can be properly riveted later.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 35: ACCESS COVERS AND FLOOR PANELS

2025-05-05T07:22:40Z

Caret: /* Build Instruction Updates */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 04/08/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/35_10.pdf 35_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

==== Page 35-2 ====
* Step 1 - this step needs to be also done for the Quick Build, it says "Standard Kit" only. The holes are only drilled 1/8th and need to be match drilled to #30 (may not be needed with modern, final-drilled kits).
* Step 1 - the holes on the front that need to be match drilled into the main spar aren't done with the Quick Build. There is one hole on each side facing the rear spar which is very close to a seat rib. When you match drill this hole, the drill will be scraping the web of the rib underneath the seat. Later, when you rivet this hole, you cannot get a bucking bar behind the entire rivet, so it will have a step (it seems this may have been changed; note in instructions Figure 1 shows 7 rivets on the forward edge but Figure 2 shows 8 -- 2024 kits seem to match the 7 rivets in Figure 1)
* Step 1 - getting the F-1016C-L and F-1016C-R trays in and out can be tough. You may need to do some extra deburring on the front seat support slots on the forward (bent) edge. You can use plastic wedges to help get the aft end of the trays over the rivets on F-1005A. To remove the trays, you can install clecos in the nutplate holes on the aft end to pull up, again using plastic wedges to get past the rivets.
* Step 5 - Figure 2 shows AD470AD4-4 rivets along the outboard and inboard foot well ribs. There are though two rivets an each side of the floor boards that go through the seat belt attach lugs and they need to be longer. The entire row of rivets along the outboard foot well rib is really hard to buck, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5293473657440357/ FB thread] or this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6858375584283482 FB thread] for hints. See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6846214252166282 this FB thread]

==== Page 35-2 ====
Another alternative to be considered.
This are a few ideas I figured out by chance.

* A friend recommended that all rivets installed in the rear foot well have their machine heads towards the foot well. I'm sure this made things easier when I got to this step. (See section 26.)
* First, final drill all of the screw holes in the floor pan to #19 and their associated nutplate rivet holes to #40, as described in step 2.
* Then install all of the nutplates per step 4.
* Complete the extra deburring on the support slots as recommended above.
* Install the floor pan. Start by wedging it between the two F-814HPP seat belt brackets, then push it forward and down so that the front is in the correct position. The rear of the floor should now clear the rear spar. Keep pushing it into position until the floor is against the floor ribs. This will all feel ugly.
* Now complete the remaining items in step 1 & 2.
* To remove the floor, put a screw in one of the holes, just 1 or 2 turns so it just engages. Use a pair of pliers on the screw to give you leverage to pull the floor up. Use a flat head screw driver to pry the rear flange of the floor over the rivets. Once the rear of the floor is clear of the rear spar, yank the floor the rest of the way out.
* Check that the side flanges are not too badly damaged. Repair as necessary.
* Finally, complete the remaining items in step 3, then complete the installation with step 5.

==== Page 35-5 ====
* Step 7 - Previous builders have noted you can skip this step if you are using the Andair valve. See also section [[Aerosport_Hints]].

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 28: FWD FUSE RIBS, BHDS & BOTTOM SKIN

2025-03-22T06:18:11Z

Caret: /* Page 28-13 */

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* You will need temporary bolts where the wings will attach. The fuselage kit contains spacers but not the bolts -- they are in the wing kit. If you don't have the wing kit yet, it is best to buy and use inexpensive bolts for Page 28-13, Step 4.
* Even if you DO have the wing kit, it is probably best to still buy and use inexpensive temporary bolts for this section. This way you can save your pricey bolts for the final wing attach.
* See 44-11, Figure 1 for the temporary bolts you will need to use in this section.

Modifications to Consider

* If you will be using wing-root fuel filters, you don't need one of the three brackets installed in this section; consider not installing it.
* If you don't need a fuel-flow sensor (e.g. if using electronic fuel injection) or if you prefer to install it forward of the firewall, you don't need another of the three brackets installed in this section; consider not installing it.

=== Notes ===

==== Page 28-2 ====
Step 2 requires "Final-Drill #19, #30, and #40 all holes in the flanges of the attach angles that mate to the fwd fuselage ribs." and show the image of a nut plate on the flange that mates to the fwd fuselage rib. However, the kit does not have any provision for this nut plate in the attach angle, nor in the fwd fuselage rib (see photo) 
[[File:RV10 28-2 Step2.jpg|thumb|left]] 

Further searching on Vansairforce ([https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=35821&highlight=28-2 link]) indicates that this nut plate was previously used to hold adel clamps for the fuel lines, but are not required in the newer kits.

Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

==== Page 28-3 ====

Step 3: In section 29, page 29-14, step 9, you will be instructed to machine countersink the outboard #40 holes on the flanges of the F-01042-L-1 and F-01042-R-1 Bulkhead Side Channels. If your kit is newer and has final-sized holes, you will not need to final-drill these holes between now and then. Consider countersinking these #40 holes now as it is somewhat easier than doing it after it has been riveted to the fuselage. They should be flush on the outside and should accommodate an AN3 rivet with a 0.032 skin.

==== Page 28-5 ====
Plans call for installation of the VA-188 Flo-Scan Mount Bracket to be installed in the tunnel location. This bracket is to be used for the Flo-Scan as well as for the FT-60 'Red Cube' fuel flow transducer. The positioning in the tunnel (between the electrical fuel pump and the engine-driven pump on the engine side of the firewall) is contrary to the installation instructions for the FT-60. See Vansairforce threads on this topic for alternative locations ([https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=23682&highlight=fuel+flow+transducer link] and [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=11698 link]).
[[File:FT-60 Placement.jpg|none|thumb]]

==== Page 28-8 ====

Step 1: In section 29, page 29-14, step 9, you will be instructed to machine countersink all the #40 holes in the F-01004K-L-1 and F-01004K-R-1 Center Section Side Plates. If your kit is newer and has final-sized holes you will not need to final-drill any of these holes later, so consider countersinking now.

It's definitely more difficult to do that once it is partially riveted in place and the main spar and temporary wing bolts are in the way. Consider machine countersinking all of the #40 holes now. They should be flush on the outside and should accommodate an AN3 rivet with a 0.032 skin. Do not countersink the #30 holes, however.
[[File:2024-10-12 15.49.16.jpg|thumb|F-01004K-L-1 after countersinking #40 holes.]]

==== Page 28-10 ====
Step 6: On the version of the plans published 01/07/21 figure 1, there are three rivets called out to be countersunk for an AN426AD4 rivet - the top row of rivets attaching the forward seat supports to the fwd fuselage bulkhead. In fact, all four of the top row of rivets holding the forward seat supports should be countersunk. The F-01043D cover panel lays across all of those rivets and a universal head would cause a bulge. Verified w/ Vans Support 2/14/2023.

Note: I managed to miss the fact that the K1000-3 nutplate is on the opposite side of the F-1043A bulkheads than all of the other nutplates. It's obvious in Figure 1 but just double-check when doing the countersinking.

Step 10: The plans omit telling you to dimple the bottom flanges of the F-1048-L/R forward fuse ribs. Consider doing it at this step.

==== Page 28-11 ====
Step 5: On the version of the plans dated 01/07/21, the rivet callouts in figure 2 to attach the inboard and outboard forward seat supports to the fwd fuselage bulkhead don't add up to equal the number of holes joining the parts. The top row should be AN426AD4-5 qty 4 (NOT 6 + 6), and the bottom two rows should be AN470AD4-5 qty 8 (this is correct, albeit labelled poorly). The third row is left open to attach the fwd floor in a later chapter. Verified w/ Vans Support 2/14/2023.
==== Page 28-12 ====
Figure 2: Note that the 7 rivets on each side of the bottom skin must be double flush. This means you have to countersink the shop head side of the main spar so that when they are driven, the shop head sits flush into the spar. The landing gear steel piece sits on top of this area, and the shop head of the rivet will interfere with it if it's not flush.
==== Page 28-13 ====
Step 2: I can't find any reference to it in this section or Section 27, but you'll want to dimple the #40 holes on the bottom flange of the firewall since the skin is also dimpled and the instructions call out for countersunk rivets.
Step 2: Before riveting the F-1048 L and R Fwd Fuselage Ribs to the bottom skin, you need to ensure you've dimpled the 8 holes (4L and 4R) for the Vent DL-10 2.4 Flanged Ducts. These are installed on as per page 36-4 using CS4-4 rivets, but the plans omit instructions to create the dimples until too late. Ref on VAF [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=149989 here]

Step 4: Before mating the Mid Fuselage Assembly to the Fwd Fuselage Assembly, consider riveting at least the first two nutplates on each side of the F-1076 Center Bottom Skin, the first of which is between the Forward Center Section Bulkhead Assembly and the Aft Center Section Bulkhead Assembly, and the second just behind the Aft Center Section Bulkhead Assembly, which would normally be riveted on page 44-2 step 4. This will be much easier to do now than in section 44.

==== Page 28-14 ====
Step 7: Check the threads shown. The 3 upper AN3-6A bolts might need two washers to show 3 threads out the nut.

[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]

SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS

2025-03-18T00:45:46Z

Caret: /* 29-14 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/29_10.pdf 29_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

== 29-2 ==
Note that when bending the longerons, the template has parts that are almost completely straight. It is easiest to identify that and avoid curving that part (don't just start curving everything at the start).

Also, follow the curve templates very carefully. The curve of the longerons affects the shape of your aircraft, the fit of the cargo door, the fit of some interior panels, etc. Even if you spend ten hours per longeron to get it exactly right that's time well spent.

Note that the "Aft Twist Mark" is not applicable for F-1013-L because it is the shorter longeron.

== 29-3 ==
The instructions don't specify, but you do the FWD TWIST on both longerons since the parts are symmetrical (other than the fact that one is shorter to accommodate the cargo door).

== 29-5 ==

Folding the skins can be pretty difficult, definitely take your time and get a consistent curve. Note that a 60-degree fold may be insufficient -- ultimately, the bottom edge needs to be a full 90 degrees from the side skin. You can force the final fold later with Clecos, but you can end up with a gap at the edge of the skin on the bottom. Suggestions:
* The forward (sharp) edge should be pretty much 90 degrees
* The trailing edge should be 70-75 degrees
* This applies to the fold on the forward side skin as well.

== 29-6 ==

Step 2 and especially Step 4 can be fiddly. Note that the thickness of the AA6-063 is 1/16" thick so consider using a scrap piece of that AA6-063 to make sure the 1/16" offset is implemented correctly.

== 29-7 ==

* Step 3: The number of holes in the top flanges of the F-1015C Mid Cabin Decks is one greater than the number of holes drilled into the F-1013 longerons using the template. Go ahead and match-drill that hole into the longerons.

== 29-9 ==

* Step 3: It is possible to violate the edge distance when match-drilling into the longeron. For example, if your longeron is not perfectly curved then the holes will not line up correctly. It's tough because you are match-drilling from underneath, but make sure that you are not drilling too close to the edge of the longeron. You can draw a line with your Sharpee at 3/16" from the outside edge of the lower flange and the color it in -- then use an inspection mirror when clamping onto the bracket below. If you can see any Sharpee through the holes then you are too close to the edge to match drill that hole.

== 29-11 ==
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4218804234907310 FB Post] on how to keep the skin and clamping block in place while bending.
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7830295577091473 FB Post] on how to use two angle pieces to clamp the skin.

== 29-12 ==

In the detail bubble for Figure 2, note that later you will be installing flush rivets into the side flanges of the F-1024E brackets. You should countersink for two AN426AD4 rivets into each of F-01042-L-1 and F-01042-R-1, flush on the aft side.

== 29-13 ==
Consider Markus's write-up to ensure the edge distance is met:
Step 1:
Match-Drill #40 the holes in the F-01069-L-1 & -R-1 Fwd Side Skins and the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels common to the WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Uncleco the Fwd Side Skins from the under the structure. This is not according to plans but makes it simpler to check the edge distance.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Upper Firewall Bracket with a Sharpie.
[[File:Image1.jpg]] 

Mark the center of the middle flange of the Upper Firewall Bracket and the Upper Fuse Channel.
[[File:Image2.jpg]] 

Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Upper Firewall Bracket tight against the Upper Fuse Channel.
[[File:Image3.jpg]] 

Make sure the center lines still align. Also, make sure that the edge distance lines cannot be seen through the holes of the Upper Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #40 the holes and Cleco as you go.
[[File:Image4.jpg]] 

Match-Drill #40 the holes in the fwd side skins and the F-1041-L and -R Lower Fuse Channels common to the WD-1003-L and -R Lower Firewall Brackets.
Use the same technique as described above.

== 29-13 step 3 ==
Separate from Markus's write up above, when I came to drill the four rivets holes
on page 29-13 step 3, I had problems which resulted in me having to make F-1013L again.
It is difficult to get a clamp in there as detailed in the instructions, and still have
space to get the drill in there.
So I used a different method which I later verified with Vans as being ok.

Once the #40 holes are drilled from the skin into F-1013, and generously cleco'ed,
the F-1013 will be nicely flush with the skin.
Then while holding the F-1013 against the F-1001J gusset,
drill the rear most #30 hole up from the gusset into the longeron.

Later once the skin is removed (29-14 step 8), the single hole in F-1013 can be cleco'ed,
the F-1013 clamped to the gusset and the remaining 3 holes drilled.

== 29-14 ==
* Step2 Instead of drilling F-1013 through the F-1039J jig at this point, it is much easier (and more accurate) to wait until the F-1013 is removed and then drill these holes on the bench. I found it is more important to ensure that the F-1039J jig edge is parallel to the edge of F-1013 than to use the #30 rivet holes to set this. If those #30 holes are slightly off, the error will be magnified in the position of the rudder assembly bolt holes. If the F-1039J is not parallel to F-1013, remove all but one cleco, then make the jig parallel, then drill the most aft of the bolt holes. Cleco this hole and drill the remaining bolt holes.

* Step 5 When match drilling from the F-1001B angle into the WD-1002-L / WD-1002-R firewall steel brackets, be aware that it's easy to violate the edge distance in the steel bracket (2 x D, measured from the center of hole). The remedy is to temporarily install a bolt into the engine mount hole to pull the bracket into place and to use a clamp to move the steel bracket to increase edge distance. See [http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=nbnrv10&project=572&category=6009&log=254638&row=60 this build log] [[File:Screen Shot 2024-01-22 at 11.29.55 AM.png|300x300px]]
 See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4932489646872095/ FB post 4/17/2022] See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5936108719843511/ FB post 3/27/2023]

Also consider Markus's write-up for this page:
Step 4:
Match-Drill #30 the holes in the lower flange of the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels into the WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Upper Firewall Bracket with a Sharpie.
[[File:Image5.jpg]] 
Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Upper Firewall bracket tight against the Upper Fuse Channel. Use a small metal plate between the clamp and the upper and lower flange of the Upper Firewall Bracket to push the flanges in.
[[File:Image6.jpg]] 
Make sure that you cannot see the edge distance lines through the holes of the lower flange of the Upper Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #30 the holes. Cleco as you go.

Step 5:
Match-Drill #30 the holes in the F-1001B Firewall Upper Angle into the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels and WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Use the same technique as described above.
Match-Drill #30 the remaining holes aft of the firewall brackets common to the firewall upper angle and the upper fuse channels. Remove the Cleco from the aftmost hole common to these two parts and final-drill the hole #30 on both sides of the aircraft.

Step 6:
Match-drill #30 the holes along the upper and lower flanges of the F-1041-L and -R Lwr Fuse Channels into the WD-1003-L-PC and -R-PC Lower Firewall Brackets.
Make a mark on the Lwr Fuse Channel and Lower Firewall Bracket as long as the Fwd Side Skin is still Clecoed to the structure to make sure those parts align properly once the Fwd Side Skin is removed.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Lower Firewall Bracket with a sharpie.
Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Lower Firewall Bracket tight against the Lwr Fuse Channel. Use a small metal plate between the clamp and the upper and lower flange of the Lower Firewall Bracket to push the flanges in.
[[File:Image7.jpg]] 
Make sure that you cannot see the edge distance lines through the holes of the upper or lower flange of the Lwr Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #30 the holes. Cleco as you go.

* Step 9: It's not clear, but when countersinking the #40 outside holes on the F-1013 Forward Fuselage Longerons, you should do all of them -- the #40 holes common to both the F-01069 Fwd Sdie Skins and F-1070 Mid Side Skins. Additionally, do NOT countersink the #30 holes on the F-01004K Center Section Side Plates; only countersink the #40 holes on these pieces.

== 29-15 ==
* Questions on which holes to dimple? See [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5839137336207317 this FB thread]. Another [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6453842408070137 FB thread on the same topic]

== 29-16 ==
* Step 5: The most forward rivet on the bottom part of the lower firewall bracket is hard to reach. Some trim the top flange of the bracket to allow for using an offset rivet set, others use a large 16" Knipex pair of pliers with a makeshift die for the manufactured head. See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8092829177504777 FB thread]. [[File:Screenshot 2024-09-13 at 8.27.25 AM.png|300x300px]]

== 29-18 ==

* On this page, do not rivet the skin holes for the F-01088-L-1 and F-01088-R-1 since you will not be installing those pieces until later.

== 29-19 ==
* If you are using the Aerosport interior side panels, don't install the VENT-0004 knob. The Aerosport side vents need a different extension lever which can only be attached once the panel is in place.
* The kit may not include the nylon washers 5610-90-31. They can be obtained at your local hardware store as #10 Nylon washer.

== 29-20 ==
* Don't rivet the forward cabin floor to the center tunnel walls if you are getting electronic injection (SDS or EFII), or intend to install access covers to the side of the tunnel as the rivet holes will be needed. For the SDS pump shelf, you will have 5 stock rivets counting from the front, then the next 11 are to be left out for the fuel pump shelf. For the access covers, see the instructions from Airward.

== 29-21 ==
* Around the start of 2021, Vans updated the design of the landing gear mount to address some concerns with cracking. If you received your fuselage kits after this, you received the SB-00007 kit with the fuselage kit. There's no explanation on how to apply this SB to a kit in construction.

* SB-00007 has been partly applied to new parts in the kit. In particular, the landing gear mount and the forward spar designs have been updated, but the side skins have not. The SB calls for enlarging some holes in the forward spar, however, those holes are already the correct size in newer kits (several 1/4in holes, and one 5/8in on each side). The SB includes two templates (VA-274 & VA-275) and two drill guides. These are not needed at all. The part of the SB that involves drilling into the side skins (F-1069, F-01004K & F-01004T) using the drill templates VA-277 & VA-278 '''''is necessary'''''.

* All of this is covered correctly in the plans. The instructions that come with SB-00007 do not need to be followed at all. If you have any doubts, please call Van's tech support.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS

2025-03-18T00:33:26Z

Caret: /* 29-13 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/29_10.pdf 29_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

== 29-2 ==
Note that when bending the longerons, the template has parts that are almost completely straight. It is easiest to identify that and avoid curving that part (don't just start curving everything at the start).

Also, follow the curve templates very carefully. The curve of the longerons affects the shape of your aircraft, the fit of the cargo door, the fit of some interior panels, etc. Even if you spend ten hours per longeron to get it exactly right that's time well spent.

Note that the "Aft Twist Mark" is not applicable for F-1013-L because it is the shorter longeron.

== 29-3 ==
The instructions don't specify, but you do the FWD TWIST on both longerons since the parts are symmetrical (other than the fact that one is shorter to accommodate the cargo door).

== 29-5 ==

Folding the skins can be pretty difficult, definitely take your time and get a consistent curve. Note that a 60-degree fold may be insufficient -- ultimately, the bottom edge needs to be a full 90 degrees from the side skin. You can force the final fold later with Clecos, but you can end up with a gap at the edge of the skin on the bottom. Suggestions:
* The forward (sharp) edge should be pretty much 90 degrees
* The trailing edge should be 70-75 degrees
* This applies to the fold on the forward side skin as well.

== 29-6 ==

Step 2 and especially Step 4 can be fiddly. Note that the thickness of the AA6-063 is 1/16" thick so consider using a scrap piece of that AA6-063 to make sure the 1/16" offset is implemented correctly.

== 29-7 ==

* Step 3: The number of holes in the top flanges of the F-1015C Mid Cabin Decks is one greater than the number of holes drilled into the F-1013 longerons using the template. Go ahead and match-drill that hole into the longerons.

== 29-9 ==

* Step 3: It is possible to violate the edge distance when match-drilling into the longeron. For example, if your longeron is not perfectly curved then the holes will not line up correctly. It's tough because you are match-drilling from underneath, but make sure that you are not drilling too close to the edge of the longeron. You can draw a line with your Sharpee at 3/16" from the outside edge of the lower flange and the color it in -- then use an inspection mirror when clamping onto the bracket below. If you can see any Sharpee through the holes then you are too close to the edge to match drill that hole.

== 29-11 ==
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4218804234907310 FB Post] on how to keep the skin and clamping block in place while bending.
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7830295577091473 FB Post] on how to use two angle pieces to clamp the skin.

== 29-12 ==

In the detail bubble for Figure 2, note that later you will be installing flush rivets into the side flanges of the F-1024E brackets. You should countersink for two AN426AD4 rivets into each of F-01042-L-1 and F-01042-R-1, flush on the aft side.

== 29-13 ==
Consider Markus's write-up to ensure the edge distance is met:
Step 1:
Match-Drill #40 the holes in the F-01069-L-1 & -R-1 Fwd Side Skins and the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels common to the WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Uncleco the Fwd Side Skins from the under the structure. This is not according to plans but makes it simpler to check the edge distance.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Upper Firewall Bracket with a Sharpie.
[[File:Image1.jpg]] 

Mark the center of the middle flange of the Upper Firewall Bracket and the Upper Fuse Channel.
[[File:Image2.jpg]] 

Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Upper Firewall Bracket tight against the Upper Fuse Channel.
[[File:Image3.jpg]] 

Make sure the center lines still align. Also, make sure that the edge distance lines cannot be seen through the holes of the Upper Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #40 the holes and Cleco as you go.
[[File:Image4.jpg]] 

Match-Drill #40 the holes in the fwd side skins and the F-1041-L and -R Lower Fuse Channels common to the WD-1003-L and -R Lower Firewall Brackets.
Use the same technique as described above.

== 29-13 step 3 ==
Separate from Markus's write up above, when I came to drill the four rivets holes
on page 29-13 step 3, I had problems which resulted in me having to make F-1013L again.
It is difficult to get a clamp in there as detailed in the instructions, and still have
space to get the drill in there.
So I used a different method which I later verified with Vans as being ok.

Once the #40 holes are drilled from the skin into F-1013, and generously cleco'ed,
the F-1013 will be nicely flush with the skin.
Then while holding the F-1013 against the F-1001J gusset,
drill the rear most #30 hole up from the gusset into the longeron.

Later once the skin is removed (29-14 step 8), the single hole in F-1013 can be cleco'ed,
the F-1013 clamped to the gusset and the remaining 3 holes drilled.

== 29-14 ==
* Step 5 When match drilling from the F-1001B angle into the WD-1002-L / WD-1002-R firewall steel brackets, be aware that it's easy to violate the edge distance in the steel bracket (2 x D, measured from the center of hole). The remedy is to temporarily install a bolt into the engine mount hole to pull the bracket into place and to use a clamp to move the steel bracket to increase edge distance. See [http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=nbnrv10&project=572&category=6009&log=254638&row=60 this build log] [[File:Screen Shot 2024-01-22 at 11.29.55 AM.png|300x300px]]
 See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4932489646872095/ FB post 4/17/2022] See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5936108719843511/ FB post 3/27/2023]

Also consider Markus's write-up for this page:
Step 4:
Match-Drill #30 the holes in the lower flange of the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels into the WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Upper Firewall Bracket with a Sharpie.
[[File:Image5.jpg]] 
Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Upper Firewall bracket tight against the Upper Fuse Channel. Use a small metal plate between the clamp and the upper and lower flange of the Upper Firewall Bracket to push the flanges in.
[[File:Image6.jpg]] 
Make sure that you cannot see the edge distance lines through the holes of the lower flange of the Upper Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #30 the holes. Cleco as you go.

Step 5:
Match-Drill #30 the holes in the F-1001B Firewall Upper Angle into the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels and WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Use the same technique as described above.
Match-Drill #30 the remaining holes aft of the firewall brackets common to the firewall upper angle and the upper fuse channels. Remove the Cleco from the aftmost hole common to these two parts and final-drill the hole #30 on both sides of the aircraft.

Step 6:
Match-drill #30 the holes along the upper and lower flanges of the F-1041-L and -R Lwr Fuse Channels into the WD-1003-L-PC and -R-PC Lower Firewall Brackets.
Make a mark on the Lwr Fuse Channel and Lower Firewall Bracket as long as the Fwd Side Skin is still Clecoed to the structure to make sure those parts align properly once the Fwd Side Skin is removed.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Lower Firewall Bracket with a sharpie.
Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Lower Firewall Bracket tight against the Lwr Fuse Channel. Use a small metal plate between the clamp and the upper and lower flange of the Lower Firewall Bracket to push the flanges in.
[[File:Image7.jpg]] 
Make sure that you cannot see the edge distance lines through the holes of the upper or lower flange of the Lwr Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #30 the holes. Cleco as you go.

* Step 9: It's not clear, but when countersinking the #40 outside holes on the F-1013 Forward Fuselage Longerons, you should do all of them -- the #40 holes common to both the F-01069 Fwd Sdie Skins and F-1070 Mid Side Skins. Additionally, do NOT countersink the #30 holes on the F-01004K Center Section Side Plates; only countersink the #40 holes on these pieces.

== 29-15 ==
* Questions on which holes to dimple? See [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5839137336207317 this FB thread]. Another [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6453842408070137 FB thread on the same topic]

== 29-16 ==
* Step 5: The most forward rivet on the bottom part of the lower firewall bracket is hard to reach. Some trim the top flange of the bracket to allow for using an offset rivet set, others use a large 16" Knipex pair of pliers with a makeshift die for the manufactured head. See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8092829177504777 FB thread]. [[File:Screenshot 2024-09-13 at 8.27.25 AM.png|300x300px]]

== 29-18 ==

* On this page, do not rivet the skin holes for the F-01088-L-1 and F-01088-R-1 since you will not be installing those pieces until later.

== 29-19 ==
* If you are using the Aerosport interior side panels, don't install the VENT-0004 knob. The Aerosport side vents need a different extension lever which can only be attached once the panel is in place.
* The kit may not include the nylon washers 5610-90-31. They can be obtained at your local hardware store as #10 Nylon washer.

== 29-20 ==
* Don't rivet the forward cabin floor to the center tunnel walls if you are getting electronic injection (SDS or EFII), or intend to install access covers to the side of the tunnel as the rivet holes will be needed. For the SDS pump shelf, you will have 5 stock rivets counting from the front, then the next 11 are to be left out for the fuel pump shelf. For the access covers, see the instructions from Airward.

== 29-21 ==
* Around the start of 2021, Vans updated the design of the landing gear mount to address some concerns with cracking. If you received your fuselage kits after this, you received the SB-00007 kit with the fuselage kit. There's no explanation on how to apply this SB to a kit in construction.

* SB-00007 has been partly applied to new parts in the kit. In particular, the landing gear mount and the forward spar designs have been updated, but the side skins have not. The SB calls for enlarging some holes in the forward spar, however, those holes are already the correct size in newer kits (several 1/4in holes, and one 5/8in on each side). The SB includes two templates (VA-274 & VA-275) and two drill guides. These are not needed at all. The part of the SB that involves drilling into the side skins (F-1069, F-01004K & F-01004T) using the drill templates VA-277 & VA-278 '''''is necessary'''''.

* All of this is covered correctly in the plans. The instructions that come with SB-00007 do not need to be followed at all. If you have any doubts, please call Van's tech support.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 25: MID FUSE BULKHEADS

2025-03-18T00:10:20Z

Caret: /* PAGE 25-8 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 01/07/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2004/11/25_10.pdf 25_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Hints ===

* If you are jumping straight from the empennage to the fuselage, note that this section, like most of the fuselage sections, has multiple priming steps.
* If your priming process takes setup and cleanup, consider opening the PDF and searching for the word "prime" before you start each section. Consider circling these priming steps on the printed instructions.
* When you hit a priming step, you can usually jump ahead and start working on other portions of the instructions, then perform multiple priming steps all at once, then go back and finish the steps after each circled "prime" step.

=== Notes ===

====PAGE 25-2====

Later in the build process (Section 28, page 28-12, Figure 2) you will need to have 7x double-flush rivets on each side of the forward main spar. That requires you to machine countersink the top/inside of the bottom flange for those 14 holes. The outermost holes on each side are very hard to properly countersink after you have attached the F-01004C center section bulkheads.

So, while you are on this step, I recommend machine countersinking on the top side of the bottom flange (you'll CSK all of the holes in the bottom flange later as part of the normal instructions but they'll be deeper than normal due to the thickness of the bottom skin). I countersunk the top holes approximately the same size as I would do for a normal countersunk rivet factory head. See the image on this page for what it will look like when you are done with Section 28.
[[File:2024-09-18 15.33.48.jpg|thumb|Seven double-flush rivets -- this is the top of the bottom flange of the forward bulkhead, and these are the shop ends of the rivets flush due to the countersinks.]]

====PAGE 25-3====
===== Conduit Summary =====
The holes in the bulkheads are only big enough to have cables run directly through them using snap bushings (vs. in a conduit). Also, there are only two holes on each side and depending on your needs, you need more. 
You do need conduits for sure but only to tunnel underneath the baggage compartment. You can go back to snap bushings forward of the baggage compartment if you like. Some people though like to just run at least some of the conduits all the way from the tailcone to the front. Now that is where the diameter needs to increase from .75 to at least .77 for Van's Nylon conduits. It is a pain to enlarge those holes afterwards since they are tucked in underneath horizontally-running structures. Adding more holes can be done later but is also a bit easer if the bulkheads aren't in the plane yet.
If you run conduits all the way from the back to the front, it will be easy to route the static pitot tube, the pitch and yaw servo cabling, the pitch trim servo cable, the battery cables etc. Also makes cabling for later add-ons easy. 

===== Hints =====
Step 8 details the assembly of the bulkheads to the center section prior to deburring and priming these parts. Now is a very good time to consider whether you will need additional pass-through holes in the bulkheads for items like conduit, pitot, static, and AoA sensor tubing, air conditioning lines, and other electrical circuits. Many builders find that the two holes referenced here and on [[#PAGE 25-4]] are insufficient for all of the required lines and circuits for an RV-10, especially if it is going to have a full glass panel and backup/redundant electrical systems.

Do yourself a favor and read forward in the plans to Sections 29 and OP-37 (even if you do not use the Van's provided wiring harness, OP-37 is very useful in understanding the options for routing electrical circuits).

Later in the build, especially after the side skins are installed, it is quite difficult and awkward to cut new holes for conduit or other pass-throughs. Installing caterpillar or snap bushings can be awkward later, too. You will save considerable time later by thinking ahead at this point.

See also Section 26 where the F-1017 under-seat ribs can be much more easily modified before installation to allow conduit and antenna installation, which might not be done until Section 35 or later.

'''ENSURE that any additional holes you cut in the bulkheads are properly spaced and, if needed, reinforced per the guidelines in AC43.13.'''

See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5714844748636577 FB thread] on the subject. 
See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5766330576821327 FB thread] on the subject.

====PAGE 25-4====
* Step 6 Step 6 requires you to 'Rivet the Mid Seat Rail Support Subassemblies, F-1004C-L and -R Center Section Bulkheads and F-1004N Stiffener Angles to the F-1004A Center Section Bulkhead per the callouts in Figure 2.' Figure 2 in the plans (Rev 1 Date 1/7/21) omits the quantity and rivets to be used. The older plans (Rev 0 Date 7/24/14) shows the rivets and places.
* Step 7 Don't insert the snap bushings instead widen the two holes to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later. Also drill a third / forth hole with same diameter underneath the two holes for a more conduits if desired.

====PAGE 25-5====
* Step 7: Check that F-1004J has the correct length and is not pushing the spar caps out of their proper position where the wing attach bolt holes no longer line up through all layers. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7122547791199592 FB Post 2/2024].

====PAGE 25-6====
*Step 4 Don't insert the snap bushings instead widen the two holes to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later. Also drill a third and forth hole with same diameter underneath the two holes for more conduits.

====PAGE 25-7====
* Enlarge the two holes at the lower corners of F-1005A to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later
* Step 3: In section 29, page 29-14, step 9, you will be instructed to machine countersink the outboard #40 holes on the flanges of the F-1005C-L and F-1005C-R Bulkhead Side Channels. If your kit is newer and has final-sized holes, you will not need to final-drill these holes between now and then. Consider countersinking these #40 holes now as it is somewhat easier than doing it after it has been riveted to the fuselage. They should be flush on the outside and should accommodate an AN3 rivet with a 0.032 skin. Section 29-18 shows these five countersunk locations (on the inside of the F-1005C-L and -R parts) to be riveted double flush, just as the seven locations (per side) were done as shown above for Section 25-3.
* Step 5: If you will NOT have 5-point harnesses in the rear seats, you probably don't want to rivet the F-1005D crotch-strap lugs in this step.

====PAGE 25-8====
If you are building from a final sized fuselage kit,
it is easier to dimple the nutplate rivet holes in F-1034C L&R now rather than
later in section 33 page 9 step 9.

I am still unable to interpret Figure 1 -- is the part shown concave or convex? I'm not sure. But F-1034D-L and F-1034D-R are definitely different. I thought I had it right, I riveted on this page, and I didn't notice I had them backwards until the end of Section 26. I found that my F-1034C-L and F-1034C-R were angled outboard and they should be more or less perpendicular to F-1034A. I don't see a downside to leaving these cleco'd and riveting in section 26.

* Enlarge the two holes at the lower corners of F-1034A to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later

[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]

SECTION 25: MID FUSE BULKHEADS

2025-03-18T00:09:18Z

Caret: /* PAGE 25-8 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 01/07/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2004/11/25_10.pdf 25_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Hints ===

* If you are jumping straight from the empennage to the fuselage, note that this section, like most of the fuselage sections, has multiple priming steps.
* If your priming process takes setup and cleanup, consider opening the PDF and searching for the word "prime" before you start each section. Consider circling these priming steps on the printed instructions.
* When you hit a priming step, you can usually jump ahead and start working on other portions of the instructions, then perform multiple priming steps all at once, then go back and finish the steps after each circled "prime" step.

=== Notes ===

====PAGE 25-2====

Later in the build process (Section 28, page 28-12, Figure 2) you will need to have 7x double-flush rivets on each side of the forward main spar. That requires you to machine countersink the top/inside of the bottom flange for those 14 holes. The outermost holes on each side are very hard to properly countersink after you have attached the F-01004C center section bulkheads.

So, while you are on this step, I recommend machine countersinking on the top side of the bottom flange (you'll CSK all of the holes in the bottom flange later as part of the normal instructions but they'll be deeper than normal due to the thickness of the bottom skin). I countersunk the top holes approximately the same size as I would do for a normal countersunk rivet factory head. See the image on this page for what it will look like when you are done with Section 28.
[[File:2024-09-18 15.33.48.jpg|thumb|Seven double-flush rivets -- this is the top of the bottom flange of the forward bulkhead, and these are the shop ends of the rivets flush due to the countersinks.]]

====PAGE 25-3====
===== Conduit Summary =====
The holes in the bulkheads are only big enough to have cables run directly through them using snap bushings (vs. in a conduit). Also, there are only two holes on each side and depending on your needs, you need more. 
You do need conduits for sure but only to tunnel underneath the baggage compartment. You can go back to snap bushings forward of the baggage compartment if you like. Some people though like to just run at least some of the conduits all the way from the tailcone to the front. Now that is where the diameter needs to increase from .75 to at least .77 for Van's Nylon conduits. It is a pain to enlarge those holes afterwards since they are tucked in underneath horizontally-running structures. Adding more holes can be done later but is also a bit easer if the bulkheads aren't in the plane yet.
If you run conduits all the way from the back to the front, it will be easy to route the static pitot tube, the pitch and yaw servo cabling, the pitch trim servo cable, the battery cables etc. Also makes cabling for later add-ons easy. 

===== Hints =====
Step 8 details the assembly of the bulkheads to the center section prior to deburring and priming these parts. Now is a very good time to consider whether you will need additional pass-through holes in the bulkheads for items like conduit, pitot, static, and AoA sensor tubing, air conditioning lines, and other electrical circuits. Many builders find that the two holes referenced here and on [[#PAGE 25-4]] are insufficient for all of the required lines and circuits for an RV-10, especially if it is going to have a full glass panel and backup/redundant electrical systems.

Do yourself a favor and read forward in the plans to Sections 29 and OP-37 (even if you do not use the Van's provided wiring harness, OP-37 is very useful in understanding the options for routing electrical circuits).

Later in the build, especially after the side skins are installed, it is quite difficult and awkward to cut new holes for conduit or other pass-throughs. Installing caterpillar or snap bushings can be awkward later, too. You will save considerable time later by thinking ahead at this point.

See also Section 26 where the F-1017 under-seat ribs can be much more easily modified before installation to allow conduit and antenna installation, which might not be done until Section 35 or later.

'''ENSURE that any additional holes you cut in the bulkheads are properly spaced and, if needed, reinforced per the guidelines in AC43.13.'''

See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5714844748636577 FB thread] on the subject. 
See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5766330576821327 FB thread] on the subject.

====PAGE 25-4====
* Step 6 Step 6 requires you to 'Rivet the Mid Seat Rail Support Subassemblies, F-1004C-L and -R Center Section Bulkheads and F-1004N Stiffener Angles to the F-1004A Center Section Bulkhead per the callouts in Figure 2.' Figure 2 in the plans (Rev 1 Date 1/7/21) omits the quantity and rivets to be used. The older plans (Rev 0 Date 7/24/14) shows the rivets and places.
* Step 7 Don't insert the snap bushings instead widen the two holes to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later. Also drill a third / forth hole with same diameter underneath the two holes for a more conduits if desired.

====PAGE 25-5====
* Step 7: Check that F-1004J has the correct length and is not pushing the spar caps out of their proper position where the wing attach bolt holes no longer line up through all layers. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7122547791199592 FB Post 2/2024].

====PAGE 25-6====
*Step 4 Don't insert the snap bushings instead widen the two holes to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later. Also drill a third and forth hole with same diameter underneath the two holes for more conduits.

====PAGE 25-7====
* Enlarge the two holes at the lower corners of F-1005A to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later
* Step 3: In section 29, page 29-14, step 9, you will be instructed to machine countersink the outboard #40 holes on the flanges of the F-1005C-L and F-1005C-R Bulkhead Side Channels. If your kit is newer and has final-sized holes, you will not need to final-drill these holes between now and then. Consider countersinking these #40 holes now as it is somewhat easier than doing it after it has been riveted to the fuselage. They should be flush on the outside and should accommodate an AN3 rivet with a 0.032 skin. Section 29-18 shows these five countersunk locations (on the inside of the F-1005C-L and -R parts) to be riveted double flush, just as the seven locations (per side) were done as shown above for Section 25-3.
* Step 5: If you will NOT have 5-point harnesses in the rear seats, you probably don't want to rivet the F-1005D crotch-strap lugs in this step.

====PAGE 25-8====
It is easier to dimple the nutplate rivet holes in F-1034C L&R now rather than
later in section 33 page 9 step 9.

I am still unable to interpret Figure 1 -- is the part shown concave or convex? I'm not sure. But F-1034D-L and F-1034D-R are definitely different. I thought I had it right, I riveted on this page, and I didn't notice I had them backwards until the end of Section 26. I found that my F-1034C-L and F-1034C-R were angled outboard and they should be more or less perpendicular to F-1034A. I don't see a downside to leaving these cleco'd and riveting in section 26.

* Enlarge the two holes at the lower corners of F-1034A to a bit larger than .75 inches (.77) so they can pass through Van's conduit later

[[index.php?title=Category:Hints]]

SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS

2025-02-18T05:34:04Z

Caret:

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/29_10.pdf 29_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

== 29-2 ==
Note that when bending the longerons, the template has parts that are almost completely straight. It is easiest to identify that and avoid curving that part (don't just start curving everything at the start).

Also, follow the curve templates very carefully. The curve of the longerons affects the shape of your aircraft, the fit of the cargo door, the fit of some interior panels, etc. Even if you spend ten hours per longeron to get it exactly right that's time well spent.

Note that the "Aft Twist Mark" is not applicable for F-1013-L because it is the shorter longeron.

== 29-3 ==
The instructions don't specify, but you do the FWD TWIST on both longerons since the parts are symmetrical (other than the fact that one is shorter to accommodate the cargo door).

== 29-5 ==

Folding the skins can be pretty difficult, definitely take your time and get a consistent curve. Note that a 60-degree fold may be insufficient -- ultimately, the bottom edge needs to be a full 90 degrees from the side skin. You can force the final fold later with Clecos, but you can end up with a gap at the edge of the skin on the bottom. Suggestions:
* The forward (sharp) edge should be pretty much 90 degrees
* The trailing edge should be 70-75 degrees
* This applies to the fold on the forward side skin as well.

== 29-6 ==

Step 2 and especially Step 4 can be fiddly. Note that the thickness of the AA6-063 is 1/16" thick so consider using a scrap piece of that AA6-063 to make sure the 1/16" offset is implemented correctly.

== 29-7 ==

* Step 3: The number of holes in the top flanges of the F-1015C Mid Cabin Decks is one greater than the number of holes drilled into the F-1013 longerons using the template. Go ahead and match-drill that hole into the longerons.

== 29-9 ==

* Step 3: It is possible to violate the edge distance when match-drilling into the longeron. For example, if your longeron is not perfectly curved then the holes will not line up correctly. It's tough because you are match-drilling from underneath, but make sure that you are not drilling too close to the edge of the longeron. You can draw a line with your Sharpee at 3/16" from the outside edge of the lower flange and the color it in -- then use an inspection mirror when clamping onto the bracket below. If you can see any Sharpee through the holes then you are too close to the edge to match drill that hole.

== 29-11 ==
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4218804234907310 FB Post] on how to keep the skin and clamping block in place while bending.
* See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7830295577091473 FB Post] on how to use two angle pieces to clamp the skin.

== 29-12 ==

In the detail bubble for Figure 2, note that later you will be installing flush rivets into the side flanges of the F-1024E brackets. You should countersink for two AN426AD4 rivets into each of F-01042-L-1 and F-01042-R-1, flush on the aft side.

== 29-13 ==
Consider Markus's write-up to ensure the edge distance is met:
Step 1:
Match-Drill #40 the holes in the F-01069-L-1 & -R-1 Fwd Side Skins and the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels common to the WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Uncleco the Fwd Side Skins from the under the structure. This is not according to plans but makes it simpler to check the edge distance.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Upper Firewall Bracket with a Sharpie.
[[File:Image1.jpg]] 

Mark the center of the middle flange of the Upper Firewall Bracket and the Upper Fuse Channel.
[[File:Image2.jpg]] 

Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Upper Firewall Bracket tight against the Upper Fuse Channel.
[[File:Image3.jpg]] 

Make sure the center lines still align. Also, make sure that the edge distance lines cannot be seen through the holes of the Upper Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #40 the holes and Cleco as you go.
[[File:Image4.jpg]] 

Match-Drill #40 the holes in the fwd side skins and the F-1041-L and -R Lower Fuse Channels common to the WD-1003-L and -R Lower Firewall Brackets.
Use the same technique as described above.

== 29-14 ==
* Step 5 When match drilling from the F-1001B angle into the WD-1002-L / WD-1002-R firewall steel brackets, be aware that it's easy to violate the edge distance in the steel bracket (2 x D, measured from the center of hole). The remedy is to temporarily install a bolt into the engine mount hole to pull the bracket into place and to use a clamp to move the steel bracket to increase edge distance. See [http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=nbnrv10&project=572&category=6009&log=254638&row=60 this build log] [[File:Screen Shot 2024-01-22 at 11.29.55 AM.png|300x300px]]
 See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/4932489646872095/ FB post 4/17/2022] See also [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5936108719843511/ FB post 3/27/2023]

Also consider Markus's write-up for this page:
Step 4:
Match-Drill #30 the holes in the lower flange of the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels into the WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Upper Firewall Bracket with a Sharpie.
[[File:Image5.jpg]] 
Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Upper Firewall bracket tight against the Upper Fuse Channel. Use a small metal plate between the clamp and the upper and lower flange of the Upper Firewall Bracket to push the flanges in.
[[File:Image6.jpg]] 
Make sure that you cannot see the edge distance lines through the holes of the lower flange of the Upper Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #30 the holes. Cleco as you go.

Step 5:
Match-Drill #30 the holes in the F-1001B Firewall Upper Angle into the F-1040-L and -R Upper Fuse Channels and WD-1002-L and -R Upper Firewall Brackets.
Use the same technique as described above.
Match-Drill #30 the remaining holes aft of the firewall brackets common to the firewall upper angle and the upper fuse channels. Remove the Cleco from the aftmost hole common to these two parts and final-drill the hole #30 on both sides of the aircraft.

Step 6:
Match-drill #30 the holes along the upper and lower flanges of the F-1041-L and -R Lwr Fuse Channels into the WD-1003-L-PC and -R-PC Lower Firewall Brackets.
Make a mark on the Lwr Fuse Channel and Lower Firewall Bracket as long as the Fwd Side Skin is still Clecoed to the structure to make sure those parts align properly once the Fwd Side Skin is removed.
Mark the edge distance of 1/8” on the outside of the Lower Firewall Bracket with a sharpie.
Use a small block of wood to hold the flange on the Lower Firewall Bracket tight against the Lwr Fuse Channel. Use a small metal plate between the clamp and the upper and lower flange of the Lower Firewall Bracket to push the flanges in.
[[File:Image7.jpg]] 
Make sure that you cannot see the edge distance lines through the holes of the upper or lower flange of the Lwr Fuse Channel. Match-Drill #30 the holes. Cleco as you go.

* Step 9: It's not clear, but when countersinking the #40 outside holes on the F-1013 Forward Fuselage Longerons, you should do all of them -- the #40 holes common to both the F-01069 Fwd Sdie Skins and F-1070 Mid Side Skins. Additionally, do NOT countersink the #30 holes on the F-01004K Center Section Side Plates; only countersink the #40 holes on these pieces.

== 29-15 ==
* Questions on which holes to dimple? See [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5839137336207317 this FB thread]. Another [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/6453842408070137 FB thread on the same topic]

== 29-16 ==
* Step 5: The most forward rivet on the bottom part of the lower firewall bracket is hard to reach. Some trim the top flange of the bracket to allow for using an offset rivet set, others use a large 16" Knipex pair of pliers with a makeshift die for the manufactured head. See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/8092829177504777 FB thread]. [[File:Screenshot 2024-09-13 at 8.27.25 AM.png|300x300px]]

== 29-18 ==

* On this page, do not rivet the skin holes for the F-01088-L-1 and F-01088-R-1 since you will not be installing those pieces until later.

== 29-19 ==
* If you are using the Aerosport interior side panels, don't install the VENT-0004 knob. The Aerosport side vents need a different extension lever which can only be attached once the panel is in place.
* The kit may not include the nylon washers 5610-90-31. They can be obtained at your local hardware store as #10 Nylon washer.

== 29-20 ==
* Don't rivet the forward cabin floor to the center tunnel walls if you are getting electronic injection (SDS or EFII), or intend to install access covers to the side of the tunnel as the rivet holes will be needed. For the SDS pump shelf, you will have 5 stock rivets counting from the front, then the next 11 are to be left out for the fuel pump shelf. For the access covers, see the instructions from Airward.

== 29-21 ==
* Around the start of 2021, Vans updated the design of the landing gear mount to address some concerns with cracking. If you received your fuselage kits after this, you received the SB-00007 kit with the fuselage kit. There's no explanation on how to apply this SB to a kit in construction.

* SB-00007 has been partly applied to new parts in the kit. In particular, the landing gear mount and the forward spar designs have been updated, but the side skins have not. The SB calls for enlarging some holes in the forward spar, however, those holes are already the correct size in newer kits (several 1/4in holes, and one 5/8in on each side). The SB includes two templates (VA-274 & VA-275) and two drill guides. These are not needed at all. The part of the SB that involves drilling into the side skins (F-1069, F-01004K & F-01004T) using the drill templates VA-277 & VA-278 '''''is necessary'''''.

* All of this is covered correctly in the plans. The instructions that come with SB-00007 do not need to be followed at all. If you have any doubts, please call Van's tech support.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 29: FUSE SIDE SKINS

2023-11-20T20:34:20Z

Caret:

SECTION 10: TAILCONE

2023-08-08T22:25:41Z

Caret: /* Hints */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/10_10.pdf 10_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Hints ===
* If you intend on installing a yaw damper as part of your autopilot package, you are encouraged to think about the mounting hardware for it while you are building the tailcone, as access is much easier NOW than later. See this page for more details: https://rv10.org/index.php?title=Yaw_Damper_Servo

* Vans also sells a mounting bracket that fits in the RV-10 tailcone (https://rv10.org/index.php?title=File:Screen_Shot_2022-03-24_at_11.50.50_AM.png) that is perfect for a spot to mount additional hardware. It's much easier to install earlier in the build process than later.

* The tie down ring and the jam nut is not included in the kit. Consider those sources:
** [https://www.cleavelandtool.com/collections/all/products/stainless-tie-down-ring Cleaveland Tie Down]
** [https://marineboltsupply.com/Type-18-8-and-Type-316-Stainless-Steel-Nuts/Type-18-8-and-Type-316-Stainless-Steel-Jam-Thin-Nuts/Type-316-Stainless-Steel-Hex-Jam-Thin-Nuts/Type-316-Stainless-Steel-Size-3-8-16-Hex-Jam-Nuts 3/8-16 Stainless Jam Nut at Marine Bolt Supply]

* Consider electrical wiring and rudder cables before completing the tailcone. It is much easier to do before the top skin is riveted than to climb inside later.
** Complete section 10 up to page 10-21 step 4. Do not rivet the Aft Deck assembly (F-1014) or the Top Skin (F-1075) until you are happy with the wiring.
** If you don't have the fuselage kit yet, you can purchase the rudder cables (F-1053) from Vans for about $110, then later have them deleted from the fuselage kit.
**Follow the instructions in section 38 (page 38-8) on how to install the rudder cables. Install the cables through F-1008, and coil them for later between F-1007 & F-1008.
** You will need to wire three (or more) systems:
*** The tail light -- refer to OP-56 for instructions on how to route the wire to the rudder. If you have ZipTips (see [[Wing Tips|Wing Tips)]], the tail light is optional.
*** The trim motor and sensor.
*** A coax for the VOR antenna -- route a 25ft coax with a male BNC connector to the base of the vertical stabilizer. 25 feet of cable allows an unbroken run all the way to the control panel; each connector results in a drop in signal strength, so the minimum should be used.
** (More to come.)

== Preparation ==
Make sure you have enough clecos. During the initial assembly, I used about 650 clecos.

== Page 10-2 ==
Step 3 - Consider also using the center line on the back of the AEX tie down as an additional reference to center the AEX to the centerline of the F-1012A bulkhead. It can be difficult to accurately center the marked lines in the exact centers of the holes as referenced in the plans.

- 5/28/22 I did it per the plans, drawing the two lines exactly. Now use a cleco CLAMP on the bottom (threaded end) and a wood C clamp on the top gently holding it in place while you drill the 4 holes. A little confusing in the plans it calls to drill the 3/32 out w/ a # 30 drill. Correct. It's a 3/32 hole oversize it to #30 so it will receive a -4 (4/32) rivet down line. See page 10-18 for rivet size. Drill the 4 #30 holes first and cleco as you go. Then drill the 3/16 holes also clecoing if you have 3/16 clecos. [[File:2022-05-28 15-36-10.jpg|400x400px|Tie down assembly]] Tie down assembly

Step 1: 5/28/22 Taping the Tie down. Note: The hole should first be drilled out to 5/16 to receive a 3/8-16 tap. The hole is undersized by Vans. A trick a machinist taught me, put the tap in your drill press and center your piece under while turning the tap BY HAND. DON'T turn on the drill! It's just a jig to keep things straight while you start the tap. Once you get a couple turns on the tap, take it out, put in your vice and finish. [[File:Sec 10-2 Tap drill.jpg|400x400px|Tap drilling]] Tap drilling

Step 5: Those nut plates will be used to hold the rudder cable sleeves with the help of an Adel clamp. It is then very difficult to start the AN3-4 bolt into those nut plates because the area is very hard to reach. Now is a good time to test run the bolts.

== Page 10-4 ==
Step 1 - Double check the length and make sure you center the F-1010A on the F-1010 bulkhead to avoid any edge distance issues later on when match drilling the top deck to the longerons.

== Page 10-5 ==
* Step 1 The angle in figure one is shown upside down in regards to its later mounting position. The angle has a vertical part that gets trimmed 5/32 on both sides and it has a forward pointing horizontal part that gets wider towards the front where it reaches the full width of 10 3/4.
* Step 4 Consider making a jig to make drawing the center line more consistent and efficient. YouTube video: https://youtu.be/yC1kzDO_Gg8?t=590
* Step 4 Carpenters Scribe modified for a sharpie. Drill 3/8 hole in end. Keep it parallel. Works great easy to make. See image: [[File:SharpieGuide1.jpg|400x400px|Carpenters Scribe Modified for sharpie]] Carpenters Scribe Modified for sharpie

* When cutting the stiffeners to length, consider making them slightly longer than Vans recommends in the instructions by approx 1/8 inch. If cut too short, you may end up with edge distance issues when match drilling the end rivet holes. The length can then be adjusted if desired after first fit up.

* Don't assume the stiffeners are exactly 8 foot long and just measure how much to cut off, measure across the entire length to mark the cut-off line.

== Page 10-8 ==
* Step 1: For hints, see this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=193058 VAF thread]
== Page 10-13 ==
There is a service bulletin (https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/sb18-03-30.pdf ) for the elevator stop (F-1012D). As mentioned in this YouTube build video (https://youtu.be/g5ONB4e28TI ), Van's did send the required material to create the new part with the rest of the kit (subkit #5), but did not update the plans to reflect the service bulletin.

== Page 10-15 ==
Step 7 instructions only apply to the web of the F-1012B Bulkhead. Dimpling of the flanges of this part is done in step 4 on page 10-16 which instructs to not dimple the topmost hole.

[[File:Screen Shot 2022-04-25 at 8.50.35 PM.png|500x500px]]

== Page 10-20 ==
If working alone, you can get away with riveting the bottom skin stiffeners to the bottom skin before clecoing the side skins on.

Step 2 - If you plan to install the BRS parachute, don't rivet the forward 2 holes of the F-1047F-L/R stiffeners as the rear attachment external plate is using same rivet holes.

Step 7 - The outer rivets are very hard to get to. Plans call for AN470AD4-4 rivets, but you may consider using CR3213-4-2 CherryMax rivets (confirmed with builder support that this should be okay). Measure your parts to ensure proper rivet length. You may have to modify your hand riveter to fit within the opening. YouTube video: https://youtu.be/cvwDYFGeK6s?t=614

Step 7 - Alternatively, you can rivet the stiffeners to the rudder stop brace before inserting the F-1012 assembly in for final riveting.

== Page 10-21 ==
Step 5 - If you already have the rudder cables, consider installing them along with rudder fairings (optional) at this point before riveting the aft deck. See [[Rudder_Cable_Fairings]].

== Page 10-23 ==
Step 4 - Check whether the AN3-5A bolts to hold down the Bell Crank Angles are in fact the proper bolts. Builders are reporting that those are too long. Note: In general, no more than 3 washers can be stacked to compensate for too long bolts.

SECTION 10: TAILCONE

2023-08-02T21:34:35Z

Caret: /* Hints */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/10_10.pdf 10_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Hints ===
* If you intend on installing a yaw damper as part of your autopilot package, you are encouraged to think about the mounting hardware for it while you are building the tailcone, as access is much easier NOW than later. See this page for more details: https://rv10.org/index.php?title=Yaw_Damper_Servo

* Vans also sells a mounting bracket that fits in the RV-10 tailcone (https://rv10.org/index.php?title=File:Screen_Shot_2022-03-24_at_11.50.50_AM.png) that is perfect for a spot to mount additional hardware. It's much easier to install earlier in the build process than later.

* The tie down ring and the jam nut is not included in the kit. Consider those sources:
** [https://www.cleavelandtool.com/collections/all/products/stainless-tie-down-ring Cleaveland Tie Down]
** [https://marineboltsupply.com/Type-18-8-and-Type-316-Stainless-Steel-Nuts/Type-18-8-and-Type-316-Stainless-Steel-Jam-Thin-Nuts/Type-316-Stainless-Steel-Hex-Jam-Thin-Nuts/Type-316-Stainless-Steel-Size-3-8-16-Hex-Jam-Nuts 3/8-16 Stainless Jam Nut at Marine Bolt Supply]

* Consider electrical wiring and rudder cables before completing the tailcone. It is much easier to do before the top skin is riveted than to climb inside later.
** Complete section 10 up to page 10-21 step 4. Do not rivet the Aft Deck assembly (F-1014) or the Top Skin (F-1075) until you are happy with the wiring.
** If you don't have the fuselage kit yet, you can purchase the rudder cables (F-1053) from Vans for about $110, then later have them deleted from the fuselage kit.
**Follow the instructions in section 38 (page 38-8) on how to install the rudder cables. Install the cables through F-1007, and coil them for later between F-1006 & F-1007.
** You will need to wire three (or more) systems:
*** The tail light -- refer to OP-56 for instructions on how to route the wire to the rudder.
*** The trim motor and sensor.
*** A coax for the VOR antenna -- route a 25ft coax with a male BNC connector to the base of the vertical stabilizer. 25 feet of cable allows an unbroken run all the way to the control panel; each connector results in a drop in signal strength, so the minimum should be used.
** (More to come.)

== Preparation ==
Make sure you have enough clecos. During the initial assembly, I used about 650 clecos.

== Page 10-2 ==
Step 3 - Consider also using the center line on the back of the AEX tie down as an additional reference to center the AEX to the centerline of the F-1012A bulkhead. It can be difficult to accurately center the marked lines in the exact centers of the holes as referenced in the plans.

- 5/28/22 I did it per the plans, drawing the two lines exactly. Now use a cleco CLAMP on the bottom (threaded end) and a wood C clamp on the top gently holding it in place while you drill the 4 holes. A little confusing in the plans it calls to drill the 3/32 out w/ a # 30 drill. Correct. It's a 3/32 hole oversize it to #30 so it will receive a -4 (4/32) rivet down line. See page 10-18 for rivet size. Drill the 4 #30 holes first and cleco as you go. Then drill the 3/16 holes also clecoing if you have 3/16 clecos. [[File:2022-05-28 15-36-10.jpg|400x400px|Tie down assembly]] Tie down assembly

Step 1: 5/28/22 Taping the Tie down. Note: The hole should first be drilled out to 5/16 to receive a 3/8-16 tap. The hole is undersized by Vans. A trick a machinist taught me, put the tap in your drill press and center your piece under while turning the tap BY HAND. DON'T turn on the drill! It's just a jig to keep things straight while you start the tap. Once you get a couple turns on the tap, take it out, put in your vice and finish. [[File:Sec 10-2 Tap drill.jpg|400x400px|Tap drilling]] Tap drilling

Step 5: Those nut plates will be used to hold the rudder cable sleeves with the help of an Adel clamp. It is then very difficult to start the AN3-4 bolt into those nut plates because the area is very hard to reach. Now is a good time to test run the bolts.

== Page 10-4 ==
Step 1 - Double check the length and make sure you center the F-1010A on the F-1010 bulkhead to avoid any edge distance issues later on when match drilling the top deck to the longerons.

== Page 10-5 ==
* Step 1 The angle in figure one is shown upside down in regards to its later mounting position. The angle has a vertical part that gets trimmed 5/32 on both sides and it has a forward pointing horizontal part that gets wider towards the front where it reaches the full width of 10 3/4.
* Step 4 Consider making a jig to make drawing the center line more consistent and efficient. YouTube video: https://youtu.be/yC1kzDO_Gg8?t=590
* Step 4 Carpenters Scribe modified for a sharpie. Drill 3/8 hole in end. Keep it parallel. Works great easy to make. See image: [[File:SharpieGuide1.jpg|400x400px|Carpenters Scribe Modified for sharpie]] Carpenters Scribe Modified for sharpie

* When cutting the stiffeners to length, consider making them slightly longer than Vans recommends in the instructions by approx 1/8 inch. If cut too short, you may end up with edge distance issues when match drilling the end rivet holes. The length can then be adjusted if desired after first fit up.

* Don't assume the stiffeners are exactly 8 foot long and just measure how much to cut off, measure across the entire length to mark the cut-off line.

== Page 10-8 ==
* Step 1: For hints, see this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=193058 VAF thread]
== Page 10-13 ==
There is a service bulletin (https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/sb18-03-30.pdf ) for the elevator stop (F-1012D). As mentioned in this YouTube build video (https://youtu.be/g5ONB4e28TI ), Van's did send the required material to create the new part with the rest of the kit (subkit #5), but did not update the plans to reflect the service bulletin.

== Page 10-15 ==
Step 7 instructions only apply to the web of the F-1012B Bulkhead. Dimpling of the flanges of this part is done in step 4 on page 10-16 which instructs to not dimple the topmost hole.

[[File:Screen Shot 2022-04-25 at 8.50.35 PM.png|500x500px]]

== Page 10-20 ==
If working alone, you can get away with riveting the bottom skin stiffeners to the bottom skin before clecoing the side skins on.

Step 2 - If you plan to install the BRS parachute, don't rivet the forward 2 holes of the F-1047F-L/R stiffeners as the rear attachment external plate is using same rivet holes.

Step 7 - The outer rivets are very hard to get to. Plans call for AN470AD4-4 rivets, but you may consider using CR3213-4-2 CherryMax rivets (confirmed with builder support that this should be okay). Measure your parts to ensure proper rivet length. You may have to modify your hand riveter to fit within the opening. YouTube video: https://youtu.be/cvwDYFGeK6s?t=614

Step 7 - Alternatively, you can rivet the stiffeners to the rudder stop brace before inserting the F-1012 assembly in for final riveting.

== Page 10-21 ==
Step 5 - If you already have the rudder cables, consider installing them along with rudder fairings (optional) at this point before riveting the aft deck. See [[Rudder_Cable_Fairings]].

== Page 10-23 ==
Step 4 - Check whether the AN3-5A bolts to hold down the Bell Crank Angles are in fact the proper bolts. Builders are reporting that those are too long. Note: In general, no more than 3 washers can be stacked to compensate for too long bolts.

SECTION 10: TAILCONE

2023-08-02T21:31:39Z

Caret: /* Hints */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/10_10.pdf 10_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Hints ===
* If you intend on installing a yaw damper as part of your autopilot package, you are encouraged to think about the mounting hardware for it while you are building the tailcone, as access is much easier NOW than later. See this page for more details: https://rv10.org/index.php?title=Yaw_Damper_Servo

* Vans also sells a mounting bracket that fits in the RV-10 tailcone (https://rv10.org/index.php?title=File:Screen_Shot_2022-03-24_at_11.50.50_AM.png) that is perfect for a spot to mount additional hardware. It's much easier to install earlier in the build process than later.

* The tie down ring and the jam nut is not included in the kit. Consider those sources:
** [https://www.cleavelandtool.com/collections/all/products/stainless-tie-down-ring Cleaveland Tie Down]
** [https://marineboltsupply.com/Type-18-8-and-Type-316-Stainless-Steel-Nuts/Type-18-8-and-Type-316-Stainless-Steel-Jam-Thin-Nuts/Type-316-Stainless-Steel-Hex-Jam-Thin-Nuts/Type-316-Stainless-Steel-Size-3-8-16-Hex-Jam-Nuts 3/8-16 Stainless Jam Nut at Marine Bolt Supply]

* Consider electrical wiring and rudder cables before completing the tailcone. It is much easier to do before the top skin is riveted than to climb inside later.
** Complete section 10 up to page 10-21 step 4. Do not rivet the Aft Deck assembly (F-1014) or the Top Skin (F-1075) until you are happy with the wiring.
** If you don't have the fuselage kit yet, you can purchase the rudder cables (F-1053) from Vans for about $110, then later have them deleted from the fuselage kit.
** You will need to wire three (or more) systems:
*** The tail light -- refer to OP-56 for instructions on how to route the wire to the rudder.
*** The trim motor and sensor.
*** A coax for the VOR antenna -- route a 25ft coax with a male BNC connector to the base of the vertical stabilizer. 25 feet of cable allows an unbroken run all the way to the control panel; each connector results in a drop in signal strength, so the minimum should be used.
** (More to come.)

== Preparation ==
Make sure you have enough clecos. During the initial assembly, I used about 650 clecos.

== Page 10-2 ==
Step 3 - Consider also using the center line on the back of the AEX tie down as an additional reference to center the AEX to the centerline of the F-1012A bulkhead. It can be difficult to accurately center the marked lines in the exact centers of the holes as referenced in the plans.

- 5/28/22 I did it per the plans, drawing the two lines exactly. Now use a cleco CLAMP on the bottom (threaded end) and a wood C clamp on the top gently holding it in place while you drill the 4 holes. A little confusing in the plans it calls to drill the 3/32 out w/ a # 30 drill. Correct. It's a 3/32 hole oversize it to #30 so it will receive a -4 (4/32) rivet down line. See page 10-18 for rivet size. Drill the 4 #30 holes first and cleco as you go. Then drill the 3/16 holes also clecoing if you have 3/16 clecos. [[File:2022-05-28 15-36-10.jpg|400x400px|Tie down assembly]] Tie down assembly

Step 1: 5/28/22 Taping the Tie down. Note: The hole should first be drilled out to 5/16 to receive a 3/8-16 tap. The hole is undersized by Vans. A trick a machinist taught me, put the tap in your drill press and center your piece under while turning the tap BY HAND. DON'T turn on the drill! It's just a jig to keep things straight while you start the tap. Once you get a couple turns on the tap, take it out, put in your vice and finish. [[File:Sec 10-2 Tap drill.jpg|400x400px|Tap drilling]] Tap drilling

Step 5: Those nut plates will be used to hold the rudder cable sleeves with the help of an Adel clamp. It is then very difficult to start the AN3-4 bolt into those nut plates because the area is very hard to reach. Now is a good time to test run the bolts.

== Page 10-4 ==
Step 1 - Double check the length and make sure you center the F-1010A on the F-1010 bulkhead to avoid any edge distance issues later on when match drilling the top deck to the longerons.

== Page 10-5 ==
* Step 1 The angle in figure one is shown upside down in regards to its later mounting position. The angle has a vertical part that gets trimmed 5/32 on both sides and it has a forward pointing horizontal part that gets wider towards the front where it reaches the full width of 10 3/4.
* Step 4 Consider making a jig to make drawing the center line more consistent and efficient. YouTube video: https://youtu.be/yC1kzDO_Gg8?t=590
* Step 4 Carpenters Scribe modified for a sharpie. Drill 3/8 hole in end. Keep it parallel. Works great easy to make. See image: [[File:SharpieGuide1.jpg|400x400px|Carpenters Scribe Modified for sharpie]] Carpenters Scribe Modified for sharpie

* When cutting the stiffeners to length, consider making them slightly longer than Vans recommends in the instructions by approx 1/8 inch. If cut too short, you may end up with edge distance issues when match drilling the end rivet holes. The length can then be adjusted if desired after first fit up.

* Don't assume the stiffeners are exactly 8 foot long and just measure how much to cut off, measure across the entire length to mark the cut-off line.

== Page 10-8 ==
* Step 1: For hints, see this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=193058 VAF thread]
== Page 10-13 ==
There is a service bulletin (https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/sb18-03-30.pdf ) for the elevator stop (F-1012D). As mentioned in this YouTube build video (https://youtu.be/g5ONB4e28TI ), Van's did send the required material to create the new part with the rest of the kit (subkit #5), but did not update the plans to reflect the service bulletin.

== Page 10-15 ==
Step 7 instructions only apply to the web of the F-1012B Bulkhead. Dimpling of the flanges of this part is done in step 4 on page 10-16 which instructs to not dimple the topmost hole.

[[File:Screen Shot 2022-04-25 at 8.50.35 PM.png|500x500px]]

== Page 10-20 ==
If working alone, you can get away with riveting the bottom skin stiffeners to the bottom skin before clecoing the side skins on.

Step 2 - If you plan to install the BRS parachute, don't rivet the forward 2 holes of the F-1047F-L/R stiffeners as the rear attachment external plate is using same rivet holes.

Step 7 - The outer rivets are very hard to get to. Plans call for AN470AD4-4 rivets, but you may consider using CR3213-4-2 CherryMax rivets (confirmed with builder support that this should be okay). Measure your parts to ensure proper rivet length. You may have to modify your hand riveter to fit within the opening. YouTube video: https://youtu.be/cvwDYFGeK6s?t=614

Step 7 - Alternatively, you can rivet the stiffeners to the rudder stop brace before inserting the F-1012 assembly in for final riveting.

== Page 10-21 ==
Step 5 - If you already have the rudder cables, consider installing them along with rudder fairings (optional) at this point before riveting the aft deck. See [[Rudder_Cable_Fairings]].

== Page 10-23 ==
Step 4 - Check whether the AN3-5A bolts to hold down the Bell Crank Angles are in fact the proper bolts. Builders are reporting that those are too long. Note: In general, no more than 3 washers can be stacked to compensate for too long bolts.

SECTION 11: EMPENNAGE ATTACH

2023-08-02T04:44:26Z

Caret: /* Page 11-6 */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/11_10.pdf 11_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

== Page 11-2 ==
[[File:rodendtool.jpg|500px]]

Tool to screw in the rod end bearings. The outer ring is a cut-off fitting.

== Page 11-6 ==
Step 4: This step details how to mark a template to drill six holes around each end
of the control rod.
Section 39 ('''Control System'''), page 39-4 step 3 has a better method of drilling the rivet holes.
In particular, use a center punch to make sure the drill does not wander,
and use a drill press if you have one for best accuracy.
Rather than cutting up the plans as Vans suggest, take a photocopy and use that.

== Page 11-9 ==
* Step 5: As a starting point, check these drawinging [[File:Elev1.jpg|600px]] [[File:Elev2.jpg|600px]] The centered starting values for the trim cable nut positions are not very good and require painful iterations. Goal is that both tabs go down 35 degrees, are in sync in neutral and the right tab goes up 25 degrees while the left one stays neutral in all up.
* Good right cable starting values: 3 threads exposed at the servo clevis, 21.4 mm from where the green ends at the servo side to the first nut 40.5 mm from where the green ends at the trim tab side to the bracket end 1.5 mm exposed of the threads at the trim tab clevis.
* Good left cable values: 7 threads exposed at the servo clevis, 20.9 mm from where the green ends at the servo side to the first nut 42.6 mm from where the green ends at the trim tab side to the bracket end 1 mm exposed of the threads at the trim tab clevis.
* Check also this thread on same topic: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=61863 VAF].
* Be sure to check the position output of the Ray Allen servo early in the process. There was a bad batch of Ray Allen servos where the potentiometer has intermittent output when cold (showing after 5 minutes in a freezer (keep servo in a freezer bag to avoid condensation).

SECTION 11: EMPENNAGE ATTACH

2023-08-02T04:43:08Z

Caret:

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/11_10.pdf 11_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

== Page 11-2 ==
[[File:rodendtool.jpg|500px]]

Tool to screw in the rod end bearings. The outer ring is a cut-off fitting.

== Page 11-6 ==
Step 4: This step details how to mark a template to drill six holes around each end
of the control rod.
Section 39 ("control system"), page 39-4 step 3 has a better method of drilling the rivet holes.
In particular, use a center punch to make sure the drill does not wander,
and use a drill press if you have one for best accuracy.
Rather than cutting up the plans as Vans suggest, take a photocopy and use that.

== Page 11-9 ==
* Step 5: As a starting point, check these drawinging [[File:Elev1.jpg|600px]] [[File:Elev2.jpg|600px]] The centered starting values for the trim cable nut positions are not very good and require painful iterations. Goal is that both tabs go down 35 degrees, are in sync in neutral and the right tab goes up 25 degrees while the left one stays neutral in all up.
* Good right cable starting values: 3 threads exposed at the servo clevis, 21.4 mm from where the green ends at the servo side to the first nut 40.5 mm from where the green ends at the trim tab side to the bracket end 1.5 mm exposed of the threads at the trim tab clevis.
* Good left cable values: 7 threads exposed at the servo clevis, 20.9 mm from where the green ends at the servo side to the first nut 42.6 mm from where the green ends at the trim tab side to the bracket end 1 mm exposed of the threads at the trim tab clevis.
* Check also this thread on same topic: [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=61863 VAF].
* Be sure to check the position output of the Ray Allen servo early in the process. There was a bad batch of Ray Allen servos where the potentiometer has intermittent output when cold (showing after 5 minutes in a freezer (keep servo in a freezer bag to avoid condensation).