RV10 Community Wiki - User contributions [en]

SECTION 10: TAILCONE

2026-02-03T10:41:54Z

43092min: Added builder video section + Video from Minos Pilacoutas

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/10_10.pdf 10_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Before You Start ===
==== Special/New Tools/Supplies ====

* Make sure you have enough clecos. During the initial assembly, you will use about 650 clecos.
* Make sure you have a very strong 3/8" tap and handle because it can be very tough to tap the AEX tie-downs (or consider purchasing [https://cleavelandtool.com/products/threaded-extruded-aex-tie-down-block one that has already been tapped])

==== Modifications to Consider ====

This is the first step in the build process where you may want to start thinking ahead about modifications which may be easier to do during this section rather than later. Not everything in this list is required, it is not comprehensive, and it is not impossible to do later.

* One or two static ports for your pitot-static system
* Additional NACA vents if you plan to install an overhead console (Aerosport) with air vents. Additional NACA vents aren't needed if you want AC-only air coming out of the overhead console vents.
* NACA vent controller (Aerosport). Not needed if you want AC-only air coming out of the overhead console vents.
* Battery charging connectors or ground power connector outlets
* Battery vents if installing a battery with vents
* Modifications to the battery tray if you plan to install alternate contactor(s), a battery bus, etc.
* Autopilot pitch and yaw servo brackets
** If you intend on installing a yaw damper as part of your autopilot package, you are encouraged to think about the mounting hardware for it while you are building the tailcone, as access is much easier NOW than later. See this page for more details: [[Yaw_Damper_Servo]]
* Mounting bracket for your magnetometer if you plan to install in the tailcone
** [https://www.steinair.com/product/gmu-11-fuselage-mount/ GMU11 top of tailcone]
** [https://www.steinair.com/product/gmu-11-aft-deck-mount/ GMU11 aft deck]
** [https://www.steinair.com/product/gmu-22-fuselage-mount/ GMU22 top of tailcone]
* Mounting bracket for your ELT
** [https://store.vansaircraft.com/whelen-pwr-mount-10-l-strobe-supply-mount-whelen-pwr-mount-10-l.html Left] or [https://store.vansaircraft.com/whelen-pwr-mount-10-r-strobe-supply-mount-whelen-pwr-mount-10-r.html Right]
* Mounting bracket for any other avionics that you want in the tailcone
* VOR antenna if desired under the tailcone or top of VS
** A coax for the VOR antenna -- route a 25ft coax with a male BNC connector to the base of the vertical stabilizer. 25 feet of cable allows an unbroken run all the way to the control panel; each connector results in a drop in signal strength, so the minimum should be used.
* The tie down ring and the jam nut is not included in the kit. Consider those sources:
** [https://www.cleavelandtool.com/collections/all/products/stainless-tie-down-ring Cleaveland Tie Down]
** [https://marineboltsupply.com/Type-18-8-and-Type-316-Stainless-Steel-Nuts/Type-18-8-and-Type-316-Stainless-Steel-Jam-Thin-Nuts/Type-316-Stainless-Steel-Hex-Jam-Thin-Nuts/Type-316-Stainless-Steel-Size-3-8-16-Hex-Jam-Nuts 3/8-16 Stainless Jam Nut at Marine Bolt Supply]
* Consider rudder cables before completing the tailcone. It is much easier to do before the top skin is riveted than to climb inside later.
** Complete section 10 up to page 10-21 step 4. Do not rivet the Aft Deck assembly (F-1014) or the Top Skin (F-1075) until you are happy with the wiring.
** If you don't have the fuselage kit yet, you can purchase the rudder cables (F-1053) from Vans for about $110. The reduction in future frustration might be worth the cost!
**Follow the instructions in section 38 (page 38-8) on how to install the rudder cables. Install the cables through F-1008, and coil them for later between F-1007 & F-1008.
* You may need to wire three (or more) systems:
** The tail light -- refer to OP-56 for instructions on how to route the wire to the rudder. If you have ZipTips (see [[Wing Tips|Wing Tips)]], the tail light is optional.

=== Builder Videos ===
Minos Pilacoutas:

* [https://youtu.be/aHW0B2ivOVY Part 1]

=== Notes ===

==== Page 10-2 ====
Step 1 - tapping this can be quite difficult and may require a top-quality tap and die set. Consider purchasing a [https://cleavelandtool.com/collections/accessories/products/threaded-extruded-aex-tie-down-block pre-tapped version].

Step 3 - Consider also using the center line on the back of the AEX tie down as an additional reference to center the AEX to the centerline of the F-1012A bulkhead. It can be difficult to accurately center the marked lines in the exact centers of the holes as referenced in the plans.

- 5/28/22 I did it per the plans, drawing the two lines exactly. Now use a cleco CLAMP on the bottom (threaded end) and a wood C clamp on the top gently holding it in place while you drill the 4 holes. A little confusing in the plans it calls to drill the 3/32 out w/ a # 30 drill. Correct. It's a 3/32 hole oversize it to #30 so it will receive a -4 (4/32) rivet down line. See page 10-18 for rivet size. Drill the 4 #30 holes first and cleco as you go. Then drill the 3/16 holes also clecoing if you have 3/16 clecos. [[File:2022-05-28 15-36-10.jpg|400x400px|Tie down assembly]] Tie down assembly

Step 1: 5/28/22 Taping the Tie down. Note: The hole should first be drilled out to 5/16 to receive a 3/8-16 tap. The hole is undersized by Vans. A trick a machinist taught me, put the tap in your drill press and center your piece under while turning the tap BY HAND. DON'T turn on the drill! It's just a jig to keep things straight while you start the tap. Once you get a couple turns on the tap, take it out, put in your vice and finish. [[File:Sec 10-2 Tap drill.jpg|400x400px|Tap drilling]] Tap drilling

Step 5: Those nut plates will be used to hold the rudder cable sleeves with the help of an Adel clamp. It is then very difficult to start the AN3-4 bolt into those nut plates because the area is very hard to reach. Now is a good time to test run the bolts.

==== Page 10-4 ====
Step 1 - Double check the length and make sure you center the F-1010A on the F-1010 bulkhead to avoid any edge distance issues later on when match drilling the top deck to the longerons.

==== Page 10-5 ====
* Step 1 The angle in figure one is shown upside down in regards to its later mounting position. The angle has a vertical part that gets trimmed 5/32 on both sides and it has a forward pointing horizontal part that gets wider towards the front where it reaches the full width of 10 3/4.
* Step 4 Consider making a jig to make drawing the center line more consistent and efficient. YouTube video: https://youtu.be/yC1kzDO_Gg8?t=590
* Step 4 Carpenters Scribe modified for a sharpie. Drill 3/8 hole in end. Keep it parallel. Works great easy to make. See image: [[File:SharpieGuide1.jpg|400x400px|Carpenters Scribe Modified for sharpie]] Carpenters Scribe Modified for sharpie

* When cutting the stiffeners to length, consider making them slightly longer than Vans recommends in the instructions by approx 1/8 inch. If cut too short, you may end up with edge distance issues when match drilling the end rivet holes. The length can then be adjusted if desired after first fit up.

* Don't assume the stiffeners are exactly 8 foot long and just measure how much to cut off, measure across the entire length to mark the cut-off line.

==== Page 10-8 ====
* Step 1: For hints, see this [https://vansairforce.net/community/showthread.php?t=193058 VAF thread]

==== Page 10-8 ====
I had to buy a large clamp that could fit across the width of the F-1014 aft deck in order to align the longerons correctly.

==== Page 10-13 ====
There is a service bulletin (https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/sb18-03-30.pdf ) for the elevator stop (F-1012D). As mentioned in this YouTube build video (https://youtu.be/g5ONB4e28TI ), Van's did send the required material to create the new part with the rest of the kit (subkit #5), but did not update the plans to reflect the service bulletin.

==== Page 10-14 ====
See this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/9146740468780304/ FB thread] on potential edge distance issues with the shoulder harness mounting holes.

==== Page 10-15 ====
Step 7 instructions only apply to the web of the F-1012B Bulkhead. Dimpling of the flanges of this part is done in step 4 on page 10-16 which instructs to not dimple the topmost hole.

[[File:Screen Shot 2022-04-25 at 8.50.35 PM.png|500x500px]]

==== Page 10-18 ====
Step 1: consider riveting the F-1055-L/R Rudder Stop Skin Stiffeners now. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7944374382350258 FB Thread].

==== Page 10-20 ====
If working alone, you can get away with riveting the bottom skin stiffeners to the bottom skin before clecoing the side skins on -- and you can back-rivet these.

Step 2 - If you plan to install the BRS parachute, don't rivet the forward 2 holes of the F-1047F-L/R stiffeners as the rear attachment external plate is using same rivet holes.

Step 7 - The outer rivets are very hard to get to. Plans call for AN470AD4-4 rivets, but you may consider using CR3213-4-2 CherryMax rivets (confirmed with builder support that this should be okay). Measure your parts to ensure proper rivet length. You may have to modify your hand riveter to fit within the opening. YouTube video: https://youtu.be/cvwDYFGeK6s?t=614

Step 7 - Alternatively, you can rivet the stiffeners to the rudder stop brace before inserting the F-1012 assembly in for final riveting.

==== Page 10-21 ====
Step 4 - If you plan to install additional air intakes for ventilation (e.g. an overhead console with air vents), you should purchase additional NACA vents from Van's (part SV-1) or at least find a good template and consider cutting the holes for these prior to riveting the side skins on to the tailcone.

Step 5 - If you already have the rudder cables, consider installing them along with rudder fairings (optional) at this point before riveting the aft deck. This will be MUCH easier to do now as some builders have reported spending several hours to do this step later. Instructions for installing the aft portion of the rudder cables are on page 38-8 (steps 1-4 is all you need to do at this point). If you also want to cover the plastic tubes on the side of the tailcone, see [[Rudder_Cable_Fairings]].

==== Page 10-23 ====
Step 2 -- before Cleco'ing and riveting the aft top skin, consider doing a few other things first
* Consider Page 10-23, Steps 3-5; it will be slightly easier without the skin in the way
* If installing an autopilot yaw servo, consider prepping and riveting that support bracket after completing Page 10-23 Step 5.
* Consider Page 10-24 Step 3; If you can safely install the F-636 brackets with the associated nuts and bolts before this step it will save you the hassle of climbing into the tailcone later. Note: one of the 3 bolts (the one right in front of a rivet) will be in the way when bucking rivets for attaching the top skin.
* If you already have your finishing kit, consider attaching the rear end of the rear seatbelt cable before riveting the tailcone skins.

Step 4 - Check whether the AN3-5A bolts to hold down the Bell Crank Angles are in fact the proper bolts. Builders are reporting that those are too long. Note: In general, no more than 3 washers can be stacked to compensate for too long bolts.

Step 5 - This is the ideal time to prep and temporarily install the autopilot pitch and/or yaw servo brackets. The entire F-1035 top plate needs to come off later when you thread in the two push-rods through this opening. Don't mount the servos yet, just the pitch/yaw damper servo brackets.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 9: ELEVATORS

2026-02-03T10:30:15Z

43092min: /* Builder Videos */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 9/6/2023 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/09_10.pdf 09_10.pdf] Skin bonding to rear spar.
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* You will need more fuel-tank sealant for this section (see notes at the top of the [[SECTION 7: RUDDER|SECTION 7]])
* More wooden supports need to be fabricated for this section
* You can buy a pre-made [https://cleavelandtool.com/products/special-bar-for-rv-10-empennage special bucking bar] instead of fabricating one for page 9-12)

Modifications to Consider

* Consider machined cable anchor brackets (see info for page 9-7 below)

=== Builder Videos ===
Plane Lady:
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXRYrk7uJf0 9-1 to 9-8]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TiQhEdeYOJQ 9-9 to 9-15]
Minos Pilacoutas:

* [https://youtu.be/HegFaib5j80 Part 1]
* [https://youtu.be/Oai7BLpIrUo Part 2]
* [https://youtu.be/wM181Sm-18U Part 3]

=== Notes ===

==== Page 9-7 ====
* Step 4: Some builders prefer CNC machined cable anchor brackets (WD-415) over the welded ones that come with the kit (Vans did have issues with the first version of them since they only had a weld on one side of the nut). Do your research before ordering a set from iflyrv10.com. See [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7196160973838273 this FB post]. Consider using fasteners instead of rivets to attach WD-415. If they are riveted, you need to rotate the entire access cover to adjust the length. It's possible, but it takes to move the F-1095A trim mount bracket all the way aft to have enough cable sticking out.

==== Page 9-14 ====

Before Step 12 (riveting the trailing edge), I suggest final-drilling #30 the most rearward #40 hole on the outboard end of each elevator, for both the top and bottom skin. It's the hole that's forward of the most outboard hole in the trailing edge wedge. Then dimple it for AD4 rivets. You should do this a total of four times.

You don't have anything to final-drill into yet (unless you want to jump ahead to Section 12), but if you wait until Section 12, you won't easily be able to dimple that particular rivet. I think it is fine if you pre-drill this one hole to #30 and then wait until the fairing is in place to do the others.
[[File:Pre-Drill to -30.png|none|thumb]]

If you didn't then you can use this tool to dimple later: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/12-00612.php

==== Page 9-15 ====

* Step 6: You can use solid rivets instead of blind rivets on the bottom skin if you really want to. If you can fit your bucking bar through the lightening hole on the front spar, then you can turn the elevator and set it vertically resting on the tip rib assembly. This lets the bucking bar sit flat and gravity helps hold it in place. You can get your fingers through the lightening hole to hold it while using normal rivets.
* Step 12: do NOT alternate directions of the rivets like you did on the rudder; make sure the factory (flat) head is on the top skin of the elevators.

----
Dave Corwith:

'''Section 9-16 Elevator Trim Tab Fabrication:'''

My Notes:

* Step 5 Bending the ends of the trim tabs: 
Make a wooden trim tab template verbatim from the templates. Use this on the inside of the area to be bent. Now put a reverse wedge on the top so the clamps will work. Now the outboard end is square (90 deg) so offset 1/32 as illustrated then clamp to table FIRM, and bend with wood block. I skipped the double sided tape as I was able to precisely clamp w/ 1/32 offset. I used a plastic peen on the rivet gun set to 40 psi. Bend the bottom first. Use the plastic peen to sharpen the edge of the bend. - Now bend the top down and match drill. 
When doing the other end, draw a line w/ sharpie from the angle edges. Put the wood block in at the same angle as the line. Clamp to the table same as other end. Clamp it FIRM.

'''Section 9-17 Step 4'''

Note: it may be easier to prime before doing this step as the access to the inside (for spraying and removing the tape) is pretty small after this step.

I used my buddy's 90 deg "shear/brake" with a 1/4-1/2" angle iron. I slightly opened up the trim tab while gently bending to 15 degrees. Came out ok. Better than just doing it with duck bill pliers.

[[File:5523 Elev Trim Tab2.jpg|300px]] Elevator Trim Tab Peening 

[[File:2022-03-28 16-10-02.jpg|300px]]

----

'''Section 9-20 Safety Wire'''

* I used 0.32 stainless steel safety wire.

'''Section 9-21 Trim Tab Templates'''
* as svg files, they print correctly 1:1 with e.g. free Inkscape (https://inkscape.org/)) [[Media:Trailing edge foam ribs.svg|Trailing edge foam ribs.svg]] [[Media:Trim tab foam ribs.svg|Trim tab foam ribs.svg]] See also hints concerning printing at 1:1 scale in [[SECTION_39:_CONTROL_SYSTEM]]

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 8: HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

2025-10-02T18:36:38Z

43092min: /* Builder Videos */

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/08_10.pdf 08_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* You will need to build some wooden support braces (see page 8-7, step 5).

=== Builder Videos ===
Minos Pilacoutas:

* [https://youtu.be/WVlUTuYb-CQ Part 1]
* [https://youtu.be/h7L9Gxo1xUw Part 2]
* [https://youtu.be/MawqfhrBbfI Part 3]

=== Notes ===

==== Page 8-2 ====
* Step 5: The manufactured head of the rivets attaching the doubler to the rear spar go onto the spar side to reduce the likelihood of interference with the elevator leading edge. This orientation is consistent with the instructions on page 8-13, figure 1. Also recall the general rule: Manufactured head on the thinner material.

==== Page 8-3 ====
* Step 3: The 1 21/32 lower flange width dimension is to be applied at the 1 inch line, not at 2 inches, the raw angle size.

==== Page 8-7 ====
* Step 3: only cut back the two corners on the front edge of the nose rib, not the entire edge because then you will violate the edge distance for the foremost rivet. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5918655041588879 FB thread].
* Step 4: Very likely that the nose rib that came with a recent kit already has the holes in the web that step 4 calls out for making

==== Page 8-13 ====
* Please read the notes in figure 1, they spell out that all the manufactured heads are on the outside (rear) of the spar. This helps with avoiding elevator leading edge binding.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 8: HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

2025-10-02T18:36:19Z

43092min: /* Builder Videos */ Added video from Minos Pilacoutas

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/08_10.pdf 08_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* You will need to build some wooden support braces (see page 8-7, step 5).

=== Builder Videos ===
Minos Pilacoutas:

* [https://youtu.be/WVlUTuYb-CQ Part 1]
* [https://youtu.be/h7L9Gxo1xUw Part 2]
* Part 3

=== Notes ===

==== Page 8-2 ====
* Step 5: The manufactured head of the rivets attaching the doubler to the rear spar go onto the spar side to reduce the likelihood of interference with the elevator leading edge. This orientation is consistent with the instructions on page 8-13, figure 1. Also recall the general rule: Manufactured head on the thinner material.

==== Page 8-3 ====
* Step 3: The 1 21/32 lower flange width dimension is to be applied at the 1 inch line, not at 2 inches, the raw angle size.

==== Page 8-7 ====
* Step 3: only cut back the two corners on the front edge of the nose rib, not the entire edge because then you will violate the edge distance for the foremost rivet. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5918655041588879 FB thread].
* Step 4: Very likely that the nose rib that came with a recent kit already has the holes in the web that step 4 calls out for making

==== Page 8-13 ====
* Please read the notes in figure 1, they spell out that all the manufactured heads are on the outside (rear) of the spar. This helps with avoiding elevator leading edge binding.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 3: TOOLS AND WORKSPACE

2025-09-10T07:02:25Z

43092min: /* Added Builder Videos section + Video from Minos Pilacoutas

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/02/14 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/RV-ALL_03-except12.pdf RV-ALL_03-except12.pdf]

=== Builder Videos ===
Minos Pilacoutas:

* [https://youtu.be/fg4AIw5AU04 Workshop Tour]

Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

See suggestions here: [[Shop and Tools]]

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 9: ELEVATORS

2025-09-10T07:00:11Z

43092min: /* Builder Videos */ Added videos from Minos Pilacoutas

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 9/6/2023 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/09_10.pdf 09_10.pdf] Skin bonding to rear spar.
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* You will need more fuel-tank sealant for this section (see notes at the top of the [[Section 7]] section)
* More wooden supports need to be fabricated for this section
* You can buy a pre-made [https://cleavelandtool.com/products/special-bar-for-rv-10-empennage special bucking bar] instead of fabricating one for page 9-12)

Modifications to Consider

* Consider machined cable anchor brackets (see info for page 9-7 below)

=== Builder Videos ===
Plane Lady:
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXRYrk7uJf0 9-1 to 9-8]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TiQhEdeYOJQ 9-9 to 9-15]
Minos Pilacoutas:

* [https://youtu.be/HegFaib5j80 Part 1]
* [https://youtu.be/Oai7BLpIrUo Part 2]

=== Notes ===

==== Page 9-7 ====
* Step 4: Some builders prefer CNC machined cable anchor brackets (WD-415) over the welded ones that come with the kit (Vans did have issues with the first version of them since they only had a weld on one side of the nut). Do your research before ordering a set from iflyrv10.com. See [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/7196160973838273 this FB post]. Consider using fasteners instead of rivets to attach WD-415. If they are riveted, you need to rotate the entire access cover to adjust the length. It's possible, but it takes to move the F-1095A trim mount bracket all the way aft to have enough cable sticking out.

==== Page 9-14 ====

Before Step 12 (riveting the trailing edge), I suggest final-drilling #30 the most rearward #40 hole on the outboard end of each elevator, for both the top and bottom skin. It's the hole that's forward of the most outboard hole in the trailing edge wedge. Then dimple it for AD4 rivets. You should do this a total of four times.

You don't have anything to final-drill into yet (unless you want to jump ahead to Section 12), but if you wait until Section 12, you won't easily be able to dimple that particular rivet. I think it is fine if you pre-drill this one hole to #30 and then wait until the fairing is in place to do the others.
[[File:Pre-Drill to -30.png|none|thumb]]

If you didn't then you can use this tool to dimple later: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/12-00612.php

==== Page 9-15 ====

* Step 6: You can use solid rivets instead of blind rivets on the bottom skin if you really want to. If you can fit your bucking bar through the lightening hole on the front spar, then you can turn the elevator and set it vertically resting on the tip rib assembly. This lets the bucking bar sit flat and gravity helps hold it in place. You can get your fingers through the lightening hole to hold it while using normal rivets.
* Step 12: do NOT alternate directions of the rivets like you did on the rudder; make sure the factory (flat) head is on the top skin of the elevators.

----
Dave Corwith:

'''Section 9-16 Elevator Trim Tab Fabrication:'''

My Notes:

* Step 5 Bending the ends of the trim tabs: 
Make a wooden trim tab template verbatim from the templates. Use this on the inside of the area to be bent. Now put a reverse wedge on the top so the clamps will work. Now the outboard end is square (90 deg) so offset 1/32 as illustrated then clamp to table FIRM, and bend with wood block. I skipped the double sided tape as I was able to precisely clamp w/ 1/32 offset. I used a plastic peen on the rivet gun set to 40 psi. Bend the bottom first. Use the plastic peen to sharpen the edge of the bend. - Now bend the top down and match drill. 
When doing the other end, draw a line w/ sharpie from the angle edges. Put the wood block in at the same angle as the line. Clamp to the table same as other end. Clamp it FIRM.

'''Section 9-17 Step 4'''

Note: it may be easier to prime before doing this step as the access to the inside (for spraying and removing the tape) is pretty small after this step.

I used my buddy's 90 deg "shear/brake" with a 1/4-1/2" angle iron. I slightly opened up the trim tab while gently bending to 15 degrees. Came out ok. Better than just doing it with duck bill pliers.

[[File:5523 Elev Trim Tab2.jpg|300px]] Elevator Trim Tab Peening 

[[File:2022-03-28 16-10-02.jpg|300px]]

----

'''Section 9-20 Safety Wire'''

* I used 0.32 stainless steel safety wire.

'''Section 9-21 Trim Tab Templates'''
* as svg files, they print correctly 1:1 with e.g. free Inkscape (https://inkscape.org/)) [[Media:Trailing edge foam ribs.svg|Trailing edge foam ribs.svg]] [[Media:Trim tab foam ribs.svg|Trim tab foam ribs.svg]] See also hints concerning printing at 1:1 scale in [[SECTION_39:_CONTROL_SYSTEM]]

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 8: HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

2025-09-10T06:52:48Z

43092min: /* Added Builder Videos section + Videos from Minos Pilacoutas

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/08_10.pdf 08_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* You will need to build some wooden support braces (see page 8-7, step 5).

=== Builder Videos ===
Minos Pilacoutas:

* [https://youtu.be/WVlUTuYb-CQ Part 1]
* [https://youtu.be/h7L9Gxo1xUw Part 2]

=== Notes ===

==== Page 8-2 ====
* Step 5: The manufactured head of the rivets attaching the doubler to the rear spar go onto the spar side to reduce the likelihood of interference with the elevator leading edge. This orientation is consistent with the instructions on page 8-13, figure 1. Also recall the general rule: Manufactured head on the thinner material.

==== Page 8-3 ====
* Step 3: The 1 21/32 lower flange width dimension is to be applied at the 1 inch line, not at 2 inches, the raw angle size.

==== Page 8-7 ====
* Step 3: only cut back the two corners on the front edge of the nose rib, not the entire edge because then you will violate the edge distance for the foremost rivet. See also this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5918655041588879 FB thread].
* Step 4: Very likely that the nose rib that came with a recent kit already has the holes in the web that step 4 calls out for making

==== Page 8-13 ====
* Please read the notes in figure 1, they spell out that all the manufactured heads are on the outside (rear) of the spar. This helps with avoiding elevator leading edge binding.

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 7: RUDDER

2025-09-10T06:46:51Z

43092min: /* Builder Videos */ Added video from Minos Pilacoutas

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 11/06/20 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/07_10.pdf 07_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* Soft-face hammer
* You will need Fuel Tank Sealant that is not included in the kit. You will definitely need more of this in the future; if you buy the [https://store.vansaircraft.com/2-5-lb-flamemaster-integral-fuel-tank-sealant-pro-seal-mc-236-b2.html larger kit] you can store it in the refrigerator for later, or you can buy the [https://store.vansaircraft.com/3-5-oz-flamemaster-integral-fuel-tank-sealant-pro-seal-mc-236-b1-2.html smaller kit] just for this section.

=== Builder Videos ===
Plane Lady:
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gAVAAmln854 7-2,7-3,7-4]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPZ3NxJvzMg 7-4,7-5,7-6]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X0j7OiI11o Rudder skins]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzQFc2v3178 Rudder mistake]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CTMdk-3u0eg 7-6,7-7]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sy2HgNq2hVs 7-8,7-9]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsDZVX63ALs 7-10]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGPfljfHuYc 7-10,7-11]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RpD6_WOKcXg rolling leading edge]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rr7lEhAcb2I 7-11, 7-12]

Jason Ellis:
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nosIsVEYvNM 7, first pages]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6xw-MZepAM 7-4, step1-3]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F9Q-BuMj7bs 7-4 step3 to 7-6 step3]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j-08kR7IgfQ 7-6 to 7-9]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mk9ueCr89FU 7-9, step 2-8]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BU2pugfaLro 7-10 to 7-12]
Minos Pilacoutas:

* [https://youtu.be/9SXV1OO9r4E Start to finish]

=== Notes ===

==== Page 7-4 Step 2 ====
If your microstop (countersink) cage interferes with the radius of the R-1005 Rudder Horn on the 2nd set of countersink holes, one solution is to use a shim between the microstop cage and the part. I used a stepped drill bit (unibit) to put a 5/16" hole in a large popsicle stick that measured .060" thick. If you set the perfect depth of the microstop on the previous two holes, then .060" is exactly two full turns clockwise to account for the thickness of the popsicle shim. Don't forget to reset the depth of the cage afterwards!
[[File:PXL 20240422 195058219.jpg|none|thumb|Countersink shim for R-1005 Rudder Horn]]
[[File:PXL 20240422 195204750-crop.jpg|none|thumb|Countersink shim stack-up with rudder horn]]

==== Page 7-6 Step 11 ====
"The holes" refers to the holes in the skin that are common to the rudder skeleton as defined in step 6. The bottom row of holes where the fairing attaches is not touched in this section, rather in section 12, page 12-3, steps 2 and 3.

==== Page 7-6 Step 12 ====

You can buy a pre-made jig for easily countersinking the trailing edge: https://cleavelandtool.com/products/countersink-jig-for-rv-trailing-edge-wedge

==== Page 7-7 Step 1 ====

Step 1 instructs the builder to rivet together R-1004A&B Bottom Rib halves. This results in difficulty in riveting the R-1004 Bottom Rib Assembly to the R-1001-R Skin as instructed in Step 3 on Page 7-8. This is because of inability to get a rivet squeezer into the triangular converging tip between R-1004A and R-1004B (see figure below). Recommend delaying 7-7 Step 1 until after 7-8 Step 3. In doing so, there will be ample room to utilize a rivet squeezer. Otherwise, insert a chisel on top of the rivet and buck the chisel face to set the rivet.
[[File:Rudder Trailing Edge.jpg|none|thumb|Trailing edge of rudder assembly where R1004A and R1004B meet]]

==== Page 7-7 Step 5 ====

This may be your first time back-riveting. You don't need to cleko these in place. The quickest method is to insert all of the rivets for the ribs, then cover with rivet tape. Then flip it over and add a rib, back-rivet, then add the next rib, etc. Be very careful that you confirm the back-rivet plate, though. Some of the longer ribs may be longer than your back-rivet plate.

==== Page 7-9 ====
* Consider using a metal angle / square steel tube with matched holes to get a straight rudder trailing edge during assembly.
* Consider using MDF boards instead, see this [https://www.facebook.com/groups/vansrv10/posts/5802010309920020 FB thread].
* Step 6: It's best to alternate top/bottom for the trailing-edge clecos to avoid slightly warping the trailing edge.
* This may be your first time using sealant -- I suggest buying the larger 2-can kit from Van's and storing in your refrigerator. You'll need to use a lot of it in the future and it will store for a long time. I mix with a popsicle stick and then I use it to spread on the trailing edge like a spatula. I run the popsicle stick sideways to remove excess.

==== Page 7-11 Step 1 ====

For better appearance, I recommend alternating the direction of each rivet on the trailing edge. I also recommend using a squeezer with a special die set made for this: https://cleavelandtool.com/products/flat-squeezer-sets

==== Page 7-11 Step 2 ====
[[File:roll_tool.jpg|300px]]

There are many ways to roll the leading edge. One possible solution is to get a white powder coated steel closet rod at home depot, then go to the tools section and find a socket that fits snuggly into it. Drill two or three 1/8th holes through the rod and socket (with a tungsten carbide drill bit) and pop rivet the rod to the socket. Using a socket wrench with a universal joint, you can easily exert plenty of rolling force into the rod. Tape the skin to the rod using heavy duty duct tape.

I used the pipe method as described in the instructions using lots of painter's tape to attach it to the skin. But I had to start with a l-1/4" outer diameter and then switch to a smaller diameter pipe to finish the job. You have to roll it much further than 90 degrees to get it to sit at more or less 90 degrees. Also, when you roll, make sure you don't crease the skin along the front spar. I lay the rudder with the skin against the table and then I press down against the table while I roll. I used vice grips on the end of the PVC pipe to apply more torque to the rotation.

==== Page 7-11 Step 6 ====

I recommend using a piece of wood on the outside to simply press against the skin to bend it until it gets fairly flush. Then you can hammer against that outside piece of wood to make it even flatter. Finally, you can use your rivet gun with the flat mushroom set on VERY LOW power to make the seam nice and defined. Absolutely make sure you have wood (not metal) on the back side of the skin (just as specified in the instructions).

[[Category:Hints]]

SECTION 6: VERTICAL STABILIZER

2025-09-10T06:43:14Z

43092min: /* Builder Videos */ Added videos from Minos Pilacoutas

=== Build Instruction Updates ===
* 10/05/21 [https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/06_10.pdf 06_10.pdf]
Check for more recent updates [https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/?aircraft=rv-10&doctype=revisions-changes&sort=date here]

=== Before You Start ===
Special/New Tools/Supplies

* A 3/8" Ratcheting Wrench can be pretty helpful

Modifications to Consider

* Some people decide to put a VOR antenna at the top of the vertical stabilizer. Although possible later it might be best to plan for that during build.

=== Builder Videos ===
Plane Lady:
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UgR1Qey78Ag 6-2]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3iEbJ4vcDw 6-2 and 6-3]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZ0sEiRXVVc 6-3]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3expdyQRTk 6 first rivets]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8oxQFQw1UVE 6-5, 6-6]

Jason Ellis:
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phIxaSNZFHc 6-2 Step 1 and 2]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n59BCJTVenI 6-2 Step 3]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7S_6nuWEFck 6-3 Step 1-3]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_6xIjO35mv4 6-3 Step 4-5]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cNhu1i7sQ0 6-3 Step 6-7]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SzLayLMPUMg 6-3 Step 8-11]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7XOEIig4ODA 6-4 Step 1-4]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JdnlNPsJwM4 6-4 Step 5-7]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9_RxWjDvHk 6-5 Step 1-3]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZuUES4VUCUU 6-6 Step 1-4]
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gfCN35sLw08 6-6 Step 5-9]
Minos Pilacoutas:

* [https://youtu.be/Oez-hdJOSHQ Part 1]
* [https://youtu.be/RZAmoNAhORM Part 2]

=== Notes ===
*When first putting the nose rib in, don't ram in in there and cleco. Be gentle, and it will probably need to be sanded down. Otherwise you will have "outtie" dents on the leading edge of your skin.
*These ribs have been sanded a bit and the web was fluted at the tip trying to bring the flanges closer together, but it still wasn't enough.
[[File:VertStabNoseRib.JPG|600x400px]]
* This is going to be some of the most difficult riveting for your whole building experience: you are new to riveting, the skin is fairly thin, the access is difficult, and the nose portions aren't straight. Just know it gets easier!
* If you ruin a skin you won't be the first person; many builders have ruined the VS skin and had to order a replacement.
* If you really mess up a rivet, drill it out. You will need to get good at drilling out rivets because you'll drill out quite a few of them. Here are some instructions: [[Drilling Out Rivets]]

*Before you start riveting, put some electrical tape on your bucking bar. It will help to not beat up the AlClad or scratch off your primer if you did that.
[[File:VertStab.JPG|600x400px]]

* AN426AD3-3.5 rivets fastening the skins to the ribs may actually be a bit long for the .050" total skin thickness. (Ideal length would be .191") If you have trouble with these rivets leaning over instead of driving straight, consider taking off .020-.030" or using 3-3's instead.

* Page 6-5, Figure 2: This may be your first time using AN3 bolts. Be sure to refer to the torque specs in Section 5 and consider adding torque seal as well. Torque specs don't apply to the AN509 machine screws, however.

[[Category:Hints]]